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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 1 wire and had a couple of quick questions. What gauge does the wire need to be that runs from the alt. to the battery side of the starter relay? Everything else can be clipped and removed right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats what I thought too, but the post on the back of the alt. isn't big enough for a wire that big.
 

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I use a 10ga wire for my one wire setup. Over two years now and no problems. That is with a regular output alternator. If you have a high output (100+ amps) I would step up to 8ga.

Later,

David Cole
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, Dave. One other question. At this point I can cut the wires that go to the old alternator and the ones that go to the old regulator, right? Just a little hesitant to start cutting, even though I want to get rid of them.
 

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I unplugged my old regulator, traced the wires back to where they entered the main harness and cut them. Taped them off with about an inch left, just in case.

Been that way since the once wire conversion and no problems.

Later,

David Cole
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the hand holding.
Just something about taking the wire cutters to the stang. It will be nice to get rid of all the extra sp'getti out of the front of the car.
 

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What do you do for an ALT light on a one wire swap? Just switch to an ammeter or what?

Greg
 

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The one wire set up that I use is a conversion kit. Converts a regular old style Ford alternator to a 1 wire. 2 Wires if you want the alt light. I bought mine locally, but you can get the same one from:
http://www.falconparts.com/search_result.asp?PRODUCT_ID=F7078
Only costs $30. Worth every cent.

Take a look at this Pic:

The single 10 ga wire for the charging attaches to the large lug at 5 o'clock with a ring terminal. The orange wire with the plug at the bottom is for the alt light. That is if you want to use it. You just have to trace down which wire inthe harness to attach it to. If you don't want to use it (I didn't) you can leave it hanging or cut the orange wire off flush with the regulator.

BTW, these things work great. I would tell anyone that has an old style Ford alternator/regulator to get one.

Later,

David Cole

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dave C on 3/14/02 11:24pm ]</font>
 

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David I assume you are using this on your drag car. What sizes of pullies are you using and does it charge well at low rpm?
 

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I don't know if it can used with a 100 amp alt. Since you have one I would try to buy the 1 wire regulator locally at an alt/starter shop like I did. They could prob tell you.

My setup is like this. Alt pulley is a large aluminum 4 1/2" diameter (Moroso I think, bought at a swap meet). The crank pulley is a small factory one. 6 1/8". When you first start the car you have to rev it one time to "excite" the regulator. One rev up to 14-1500 rpm will do it. After that at idle (900) I only get about 12.5 volts. Just off idle it starts to really work though. By 1200 it has 13.5V and is over 14V by 1400. Maxes out at 14.5-14.6V at 1500. Keep in mind my large alt pulley slows it down. With a standard pulley it would prob give max voltage much sooner.

A pic:


Later,

David Cole

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dave C on 3/20/02 9:04pm ]</font>
 

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I installed a stereo system in my truck and now require a larger alternator. It seems to me that if I install a 140amp 1 wire alternator, that all that current going to my battery will "cook" the battery.
So then what do I do with the factory harness, and where does it tie in to my harness? If the 1 wire alternator is such a great idea, why didn't Ford use it in the first place? No one has a HO alternator that hooks up to the factory harness. Why?
 

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With a high current alt, it doesn't actually make the current until you need it. Being a 140 or 100 amp altenator just means it has that capability, not a constant thing. Unless you have a broke regulator, you wont have to worry about frying the battery or anything else. I am still using stock type altenator on my torino with 1000 watt stereo and a underdrive crank pulley. The crank pulley made it not charge at all at idle, but just off idle it charges good. I'm sure my stereo doesnt sound as good as it would if I had a larger altenator, but it still is more than I need for anything. My point is, why would someone waste their money on a 100 amp altenator. You would have to have quite a bit of electrical crap to draw enough to really make a difference, and on top of that, the only time you will need the full capability of the altenator is when you have *everything* running. I can see why people with large stereos need it, many amps make more power at higher voltage, and draw *lots* of current for example, a class ab 1000 watt audio amplifier would draw approx 138 amps at full capacity (1000watt / 12volt) / 0.60 (60 percent effciency). Thats quite a bit of current, and when you try and draw that straight from a battery, you can bet the voltage will drop. In this case you will need a high current alt to keep the voltage up for sound quality. With my headlights on, a/c on high, brakes on, it only draws about 25-30 amps. Most stock altenators are 50-70 amp capability, so that leaves me with at least 20 more amps available. If you are running electric fans, constantly, thats another 10 amps. If you are running an electric water pump as well, thats only another 5-6 amps. Stuff that doesnt really matter when it comes to what size altenator you have are intermittent things, like power windows, power seats. They do take a bit of current to run, but how many people are constantly rolling their windows up and down? Just my opinion on the matter here, the only battery problems I have had was sitting for 3 hours, engine off, blasting my stereo. When I'm driving, even on long trips, I have never had a problem with a dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Brian, the one thing that you are missing is the fact that a stock 60 amp ford alternator doesn't put 60 amps at idle. Most stock 60's systems put out less than 20 at idle. They only make 60 amps at road speed. Sure most elec usage is intermitant ie., sound systems, wipers, lights. If the engine is driven enough at speed to recharge the battery after heavy usage then it's fine. The only problem that you will run into is shortened battery life from constant discharge and recharge.

My problem was 2 electric fams 11.5 amps each, 1 electric fuel pump 7 amps, 1 msd box and ignition 5 amps. This gave me 35 amps at idle and the alt. wasn't keeping the fans running at full speed and letting the car become gradually hotter.

I don't really need a 100 amp alt, but I did want one that would make the 60 amps the old one did but, do it at idle where I really need it.
 
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