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1963 Galaxie 500 Fastback
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My 1964 didn't have rear seatbelts, and I didn't see provisions for ones when I had the back seat out.

FYI,

Pat
Thanks Pat. Time to spend some time under the car seeing what makes sense/wont hold water for the grade 8 hardware.
 

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I don't think you could get rear seatbelts on the Galaxies in 63. My 64 didn't have them either. If you do put them in , you will need reinforcement behind the hole. A small steel plate or a large diameter thick washer might work. Looks like you are doing a great job on your Galaxie. It's looking good.
 

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Thanks Pat. Time to spend some time under the car seeing what makes sense/wont hold water for the grade 8 hardware.
My 63' has 3 sets of seat belts in the back seat that was added by the P.O. I'll see if I can get some time under the car and take some pictures if you'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
@Foxbody817 - That would be helpful! Thanks.

Does anyone know the correct Red, White and Blue colors of the Ford Crest? Need to repaint the emblem/hood release in the grille. Thanks!
 

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@Foxbody817 - That would be helpful! Thanks.

Does anyone know the correct Red, White and Blue colors of the Ford Crest? Need to repaint the emblem/hood release in the grille. Thanks!
When I was restoring my car, I was surprised to find that the Ford emblem on the hood opener was actually a high class decal done on a piece of aluminum. It turns out that that decal is (or at least was) available new (10 years ago). In my Mac's catalogue it was on page 48, "Galaxie Grille Emblem Insert", P/N 60-35451, $17.99. In my 2015 Dennis Carpenter catalog it was on page 89, "Hood Pull Emblem Insert", P/N C3AZ-8213-1, $14.95. All you have to do is get your old one out with solvent and a single edge razor blade, clean the old glue out, and stick the new one in. Assuming your chrome surround is in good shape it will look brand new. Good luck!
 

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Now that I've had time to check on line, the grille ornament emblem insert is still available from Carpenter's and Mac's, as above, same part numbers, same prices. It's a lot better than just a decal and I highly recommend it. However, if you're determined to paint what you have, the left hand triangle is red, the bottom triangle is white, and the right hand triangle is blue. I'm afraid I can't help you with the "correctness"part. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks @635Rangoon427! I've looked at the ornaments and left it out of my latest autokrafters order. Probably should have bought it to save time and likely money. The chrome surround is in good shape but all the colors on the insert are gone.

Decent progress after work this week on a few items. The rest will have to wait until I'm back home on Sunday.

  • Wired in a modern brake light switch. The pressure switch has been removed as part of the switchover to a hydroboost setup. I hate drilling holes in good, original stuff but this is one upgrade that will be worth it.
  • Cleaned, rebuilt, relubed, and installed new rollers, rubber, kilmat and anti rattlers in both the doors, including rebuilds of wing windows. When realigning the windows I realized how badly worn the hinge pins in the doors are. For now I'm being lazy and simply adjusted the striker plate up so everything lines up. Itll need new hinge pins soon though. I need to stop taking things apart so I can get it back on the road!
  • Roomate made a piece of metal to replace the rotted out portion of passenger inner fender. I'm guessing an exploded battery, along with time, was the culprit. Need to finish welding that in(my welding skills are.. not great but getting better).
  • Started terminating the new harness under the dash and made the decision to upgrade to a '65 and later headlight switch. The rheostat on the original switch was cracked and falling apart and the later switch will be easier to wire in anyway. This car isnt nickel and diming me, its hamilton and jacksoning me.
The doors now shut with an authoritative thud without any rattle or hollow sound at all. Its now impossible to have a conversation with someone outside of the car when all the windows are up. Just need the door weatherstrip to get off backorder so I can finish that off.

I scored a deal on a seasucker mini bomber bicycle rack for the trunk this week as well. Pictures soon but im trying to find one more mini bomber so I can carry 4 bikes on the trunk easily. Goal is to get the car on the road in time to drive to a couple races within North Carolina this fall. Here's an old picture, pre tear down, plotting and planning a roof rack setup. Hoping to put a lot of miles on it with a big smile on my face en route to various adventures.

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Its been ~ a week since Ive hopped on the forum. Work & life distracting a bit from making progress on the Galaxie. We've been focused on wiring the last couple of evenings. The roomate was able to combine the 2 wiring diagram pages from oldcarmanualproject.com into one .jpg file. I sent that to Staples to be printed and laminated in 18x24 so we can use dry erase markers on it to trace the wires easily. I attached it, only for the 63, in case anyone else finds it useful.

I'm rewiring the entire car with a kwikwire harness and it is quickly apparent this harness is not specific to the Galaxie as claimed. I know its impossible for a company to confirm fitment on every vehicle but one look under a galaxie's dash and one quickly sees how little room there is. I did not locate the modern fuse panel on the kickpanel near the parking brake as suggested by the instructions, Instead we made a little bracket to hang it to the right of the steering column, inverted so the fuses and relays can be relatively easily accessed(if you lay on your back on the drivers floor). It also keeps everything tucked up out of the way, but it means some of the wires are now too short and others plenty long. For example there is enough instrumentation wire that the cluster could go directly in front of the rear left passenger. All in All its a good kit for the money and it was american made.

We are taking our time wiring it so everything is clean, easy to access and hidden as much as possible, testing each circuit as we go. The hole in the column brace, normally reserved for the speedocable will also have the instrument cluster wires, rubber around the metal edges, wiring loom, and hopefully one modern connector so the cluster can be easily removed if or when needed. The original wiper harness was reused with the addition/change to the switched power connector. The 1965 and later headlight switch is wired in and ready. Other wires, like the ignition switch group, have only been routed to their location until we are ready to wire in.

I managed to take only one picture of the progress but the connector for the headlight switch can be seen hiding to the left of the steering column brace.

Also got seatbelts installed for the back seat but didnt get any pictures.

Nothing sexy or fun about wiring pictures.
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Looks like you have done a considerable amount of work. For temp sensor you may want to check out a mid 90's 5.0 F150 heater hose outlet. Or an 85 Crown vic 5.0. They have a hex shaped stand for lack of a better word. I think the vic has 2 sensor ports plus heater hose outlet. Could possibly be machined to adapt your uses. I believe your valve covers are 67 up. There are some exceptions on the valve covers from 65 and 66 as the adjustable rockers will not fit. I think the solid lifter engines used the Mercury/Marine pent roof covers without the Mercury stamping. Kind of ties into pcv regulations of the day. Anyway sorry for rambling, you have an awesome looking car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
@5851a Thanks for the compliment. Like many old cars its impossible to know what the history is. The intake that was on the car when I got it starts with C5A but Ive not be able to find part numbers on the valve covers themselves. I've not primed the engine yet but thanks for the heads up on the adjustable rockers, I'll pay close attention when we do prime it to make sure there isnt a clearance issue.

Was out of town part of last week and then encountered a few annoying problems that are forcing some backward steps. The car came with two keys, what I assumed was ignition and doors, and a trunk. Turns out the ignition key isnt the same as the door locks, nor do I have a key for the door locks. So I ordered a new set from Dennis Carpenter(they are the supplier to autokrafters, dearborn etc) and learned a quick lesson. Install the ignition cylinder in the dash before the doors. Wasted a couple hours trying to get the ignition cylinder to release the key once the cylinder was in the swtich without any luck. Called DC and they said return the set, which meant losing more time pulling the cylinders back of out of the doors. Is what it is.

On a positive note, the ignition switch, heater switch, column, door switches are wired. The aux gauges are mounted below the center of the dash and the doors wont take long to finish once the new-new locks arrive. Putting the anti rattle strips on the inner door trim is a pain! Just now realized I havent taken any pictures of the additional progress. Waiting on LED bulbs to show up to wire in all the dash lights and cluster and then will figure out how and where to mount a sweep style tach on the column.

Removed the old, brittle, painted over weatherstripping around the trunk and cleaned and prepped the metal for the new weatherstripping to be installed. At somepoint in the future I'll have to find a new trunk lid because it is further gone than I thought. New coil and leaf springs from eaton springs in detroit showed up earlier this week and the correct color carpet showed up last saturday(while I was out of town).

Plenty to do but there won't be much progress on the Galaxie the remainder of this week. I'm prepping my other fun car 2012 Boss 302, and helping the roomate prep his '94 mustang cobra, for an appalachian mountain drive/tour/general shenanigans at the end of this month. The 302 in the picture below is mine, the blue '11 5.0 is my father's.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
A fun discovery yesterday while working on rebuilding rear axle/suspension etc. Successfully installed the center section with 3.25s and limited slip and moved on to replacing the leaf springs with the new HD ones i ordered from Eaton Spring. At some point in the big gal's past a genius decided to add an extra leaf; who knows why maybe the original spring pack was totally clapped out. In between the add-a-leaf and original springs were pieces of wood held in with electrical tape in front of the axle and an extra spring pad on the rear of the axle. Yikes!


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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I'm still trying to chase down a rear swaybar after talking to Glen at Quickor. Sounds like he is a one man show these days. The rest of the rear of the car is put back together and the original driveshaft worked with the C6 using the c6 tailshaft and new u-joints. The new springs, shocks, and lakewood bars are waiting on the aforementioned swaybar.

Last week was family vacation but hope to get back after it tonight after work. The goal is to get the 1" drop coil springs from Eaton installed on the front tonight to get a rough idea of the final ride height. It should sit with an almost imperceptible forward rake if I didnt hose the calculations.

Does anyone here have experience with replacement lock cylinders in the Ignition switch? Autokrafters sent a second set after the first one would not release the key once installed in the switch. Unfortunately the key also hangs in the second ignition cylinder. I'm replacing it because the keys that came with the car didnt work both the ignition and the doors. Maybe an exploded diagram of the switch? Thanks everyone.

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Well, a few curveballs throughout the work day meant I wasnt able to wander to the garage until after 8pm. Scrapped the plan of working on coil springs to focus on things that should've taken less time. The new ignition cylinder doesnt work with my switch, the key will not come out. Swapped the cylinder into the roomates truck and it worked but not smoothly. Perhaps attributable to a new key and lock. Installed the original cylinder in my switch and it works no problem. Trying to track down a local locksmith to re-key the door locks to my original key and plan to return the new lock set. Frustrating but no need to dwell on it because there is plenty of other stuff do.

The vintage auto radio, which was ordered back in June, arrived while I was on vacation last week so the focus switched to installing that. My car came with a terrible grey plastic Sony cassete deck, fortunately they did not cut the original dash to install it. Installation required a very small dash trim of about 1/4" of the lower part of the factory dash hole. Apparently a galaxie with an original FM radiio wont need to be trimmed while AM only radio cars will need a little trim.

A dremel made quick work of it and the radio is mounted in the dash. I am very happy with the original looking radio and cant wait to turn it on and playwith bluetooth and the other features. I highly recommend working with Steve Weber from Vintage Auto Radio(no i'm not sponsored, I just like giving recommendations for nice, fair vendors) if you are interested in upgrading your factory radio. Its all wired in with the exception of the front speakers because I need to determine where I am going to mount those.

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Galaxie lovers, I'm trying to decide where to locate a halfsweep tach. My options are kind of limited since I've got a column shifted automatic and I do not want to hard mount it to the top of the dash. Is anyone able to share pictures of their Tach setups? The 2 options I like the most are:
  • the left side of the column near the airvent knob.
  • to the left of the 3 gauge pod below the dash.

The more complicated option is to build a setup that rises and lowers out of the speaker hole in the dash once the key is turned to on.

Thank for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Does anyone have the lower door trim panel retainers they'd like to sell for a 1963 Galaxie? Any of the boxtops or fastbacks from 63 or 64 should use the same piece, roughly 37.5" long. Both the passenger and drivers side on my doors are shot and I'd like to replace them. The only aftermarket replacements ive found are stainless from Mac's. I'm referring to the channel at the bottom of the door in each picture, the door card sits in it once assembled.

I spent way too much time this weekend trying to figure out where to mount front speakers for the stereo, ultimately deciding to make panels for the window assembly access area of the doors. Instead of cutting up the door panel I've drilled 4 holes which could be filled in later if desired. The door panel backer board will be trimmed to match the speaker hole and then the vinyl on the door panels will be preforated to let sound through. The speakers will be pointed at the sides of the seat but sound quality should be minimally impacted. I did not want speaker protuding into the foot wheel or visible on the floor.

I'd recommend going with 6" or smaller speaker if anyone else tries this. The 6.5' speakers will work and sound great but make the access panel a little trickier to install and remove. I don't believe modern speaker grilles fit the design of classic car interiors and while my approach makes installation more complicated having them all concealed will be worth it in the end.

Hoping to pull the rear seat back out tonight and create a similar concealed setup for two 6x9's in the package tray.

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There was someone on here that installed speakers in the rear seat riser panel. If you want in rear shelf check with sound system shops, they have material that is acoustically transparent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
@5851a Thanks. Unfortunately, I've done this a little backwards as I already have a new fresh package tray that a local upholsteror made, along with new door cards. I'm going to test the harbor freight hollow punches(Hollow Punch Set, 9 Pc.) on an old piece of vinyl and see if I can cleanly cut a few holes into what ive already got. Re-using an idea I found on the hotrodders forum here: punch to make speaker holes in vinyl
 

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@5851a Thanks. Unfortunately, I've done this a little backwards as I already have a new fresh package tray that a local upholsteror made, along with new door cards. I'm going to test the harbor freight hollow punches(Hollow Punch Set, 9 Pc.) on an old piece of vinyl and see if I can cleanly cut a few holes into what ive already got. Re-using an idea I found on the hotrodders forum here: punch to make speaker holes in vinyl

I have the same set in the Cal-Hawk brand. I've had it for many years but it is used sparingly. I've used it to punch cork and paper gasket material, thin rubber, leather, vinyl, etc.. It's made in China like I'm sure the Harbor Freight set is (probably the same manufacturer) but I have no complaints.
 
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