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Discussion Starter #1
Here is pic of what I started with 10 years ago.

It's currently a driving work in progress. When I bought it the interior was shot, there was no motor or tranny, the car was originally a 6 cylinder and it had a few motors in it between then and now. Its rust free, and doesn't have a whole lot of collectors value.
 

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looks like a box top?
so....what does it look like now?
as far as collector value, you would be surprised. a solid two door (I assume it runs now) would go for a good price. It has spent 50 years dodging rust. That mirror don't help though. if your in Washington state, I have a 67 remote mirror you can have, if you haven't replaced that eyesore by now. The knob is broke off, but cleans up fine. Wrong year I know, but.......
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I found a 460 and a c6 for $500 which turned out to be a good fit. Went in nice and easy with a set of crites motor mounts and stock manifolds. I added a stealth intake and 4 barrel carb, new timing chain and cover and gaskets for good measure.



I also upgrade the brakes to manual disc using the late 70's tbird spindles. Which is when I came across this site. There is some really usefull information here about doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I moved back Minnesota and the car came with. I worked on it pretty heavy for a few months to get it ready for our wedding. I ordered a carpet kit, seat covers, sound proofing, and had a quick shot of paint done.





Married the same girl who originally borrowed me $300 so I could buy the car. Shes a keeper
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: 1964 Ford Galaxie Custom

looks like a box top?
so....what does it look like now?
as far as collector value, you would be surprised. a solid two door (I assume it runs now) would go for a good price. It has spent 50 years dodging rust. That mirror don't help though. if your in Washington state, I have a 67 remote mirror you can have, if you haven't replaced that eyesore by now. The knob is broke off, but cleans up fine. Wrong year I know, but.......
I am sure it has some value as an old car, but it's not a rare numbers matching pristine never restored car. At any rate I've dabbled with selling the car and decided against it. To much history at this point. Now i'm just building something I enjoy.
 

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I see your point. many engines, prolly a few repaints, a prospective buyer would have to see beyond that.
I just recently got my 67 back on the road. had it since 97. original paint is now gone, as well as the caved in door, punched tail light, but its as straight as an arrow. all original running gear, but, it is only original once.
I liked the ansens on your car better. those are just too shiny and modern to me. nice interior.
 

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Now that he's in the midwest I imagine the value doubled being a rust free classic. The 64's are nice cars and a good example like this can be worth good money. 65 and up are nice cars but not nearly as desirable in my book.
 

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Very nice car and as far as being original only matters to people with alot of money and collect, trailer, and show thier cars. Then there are us that enjoy our cars for what they are. In the 60's we made the cars we drove our own style and didn't worry about original and same goes today. I restored a 64 that was original made changes for my liking and after enjoying it sold it for a nice figure. I like post cars and now finishing a 63 Fairlane wagon that was original but now to my liking. Your doing a good job and the history of you ,car and wife are priceless.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I'm planning on doing some track days with the car so I wanted to rebuild and possibly upgrade the suspension and of course get rid of the front lower control arm offset shafts. After much research, i decided to go with the Fatman Control arms.

not only does this remove the lower control arm offset shaft but it includes poly bushings which I could not find anywhere for the car.


some machining is required here and it should be noted that the suspension geometry is changed as the offset shafts are designed in a way the the axis is not in the center of the bolt.
Here it is installed, I'm happy with the Fatman control arms and the customer support was great. I'm considering getting their spindles and a big brake setup but that is down the road for me. I also added new heavy duty springs and shocks. I also purchased a heavy duty front rear sway bar kit off of ebay. I think it is made by quicktor or something similar to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I've also been researching and experimenting with different rack and pinion setups.
here is a "j car" rack setup

and the flaming river setup

I had really hoped that the flaming river setup would work out but the placement of the pinion would require some custom headers which I wasn't prepared to take on at the time. Also I found that the rest of the kit required quite a bit of customization to get it to fit the car which was disappointing. It looked really nicely built.
for now i am going to use the J car rack setup. The disadvantage with this setup is that it can limit your turning radius due to the end of the rack sticking out past your frame into the wheel wheel. I plan on making my own mounts to move the rack over 2 inches which should fix this and still leave enough room for the steering shaft and exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I ended up using the J car rack setup, I'm disappointed with the turning radius as the rack doesn't have the same throw that my old manual steering gear did. I think this can be offset with shorter steering arms on the spindle, possibly from a Granada or aftermarket, but for now i'm going to leave it alone.

I had my rear axle apart for a trac-lock install and was in for a big surprise.

the diff looks like it was filled with what looked to be wheel bearing grease. I have never seen anything like this before!

I found out that my car doesn't actually have a 9 inch that I had assumed. but an 8.75 this caused me a bit of grief until I found out all of the parts are interchangeable. I was able to put in a 9 inch trackloc and use the small 9 inch bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It has been a very hectic summer with this car, lots of problems with sub-par parts and parts that just plain don't fit. You have to really love these cars to build one. It's not like building a Mustang.

Here are some fun pics of the engine that is going in.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found this interesting


Ford Custom 2-door Sedan Mileage Maker Six, model year 1964, version for North America U.S. (up to September)

base curb weight: 1675 kg / 3693 lbs

Ford Mustang GT (3.73 opt. axle ratio)
as offered for the year 2014 in North America

Curb weight (without a driver):

1641 kg / 3618 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #17
front spindle info

80 granada front set 12 13
inner 1.3775" ID, 2,3280" OD, 0.625" Cup Width
outer 0.8656" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width
64 galaxie spindles set 6 set 2
inner 1.250' ID 2.3280 OD, 0.6250 INCHES
outer Inch, 0.7500" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width
1974 torino
set 11 inner 1.4961 2.4803
set 12 outer 0.8661 1.781
 

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front spindle info

80 granada front set 12 13
inner 1.3775" ID, 2,3280" OD, 0.625" Cup Width
outer 0.8656" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width
64 galaxie spindles set 6 set 2
inner 1.250' ID 2.3280 OD, 0.6250 INCHES
outer Inch, 0.7500" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width
1974 torino
set 11 inner 1.4961 2.4803
set 12 outer 0.8661 1.781
Can you explain what you mean by having set numbers after the title of the spindle? Impacting to upgrade to discs up front & get a dual reservoir master cylinder so I'm interested in your thread. Thanks for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Can you explain what you mean by having set numbers after the title of the spindle? Impacting to upgrade to discs up front & get a dual reservoir master cylinder so I'm interested in your thread. Thanks for your time.
Sorry my post is pretty random. I have been comparing spindle sizes by using the bearing dimensions. Obviously there are many other considerations when selecting spindle / brake packages. To answer your question, the number after the title is a Timken part # (SET ##)


This may makes more sense

This is an exercise to see which spindles would provide the largest bearing / spindle size for use in a high performance driving application.

64 galaxie spindles set 6 set 2
set 6 inner 1.250' ID 2.3280 OD, 0.6250 INCHES
outer Inch, 0.7500" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width
1968 69 gal
set6 inner 1.2500" ID, 2.3280" OD
set 2 outer 0.7500" ID, 1.7810" OD

1970 71 72 73 galaxie
set 13 inner 1.3775" ID x 2.328
set 12 outer 0.8661 1.781
80 granada front set 12 13
inner 1.3775" ID, 2,3280" OD, 0.625" Cup Width
outer 0.8656" ID, 1.7810" OD, 0.610" Cup Width


1974 torino gal
set 11 inner 1.4961 2.4803
set 12 outer 0.8661 1.781
1979 thunderbird
set 11 inner 1.4961" ID, 2.4800" OD
set 12 outer 0.8661 1.781
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got a deal on the CPP classic performace products disc brake set for the stock spindles. I believe this is a new offering from them. It comes with 13 inch rotors aluminum hubs bearings duel piston calipers, brackes and hardware as well as new rubber lines. All in all a nice kit. Some instructions would have been nice. Anyways here are some pics.





I'm going to take out my scale and see how this compares to my late 70's singe piston cal and 11 inch rotors
 
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