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Discussion Starter #42
Making a little progress this weekend. Because of the amount of backspacing required to run a 18x10 inch wide wheel with decent scrub radius the wheel will have to fit over the upper ball joint and steering arm. This simply will not work with a granada spindle. I tried a -.5" upper ball joint and there still wasn't enough room with at 18 inch rim. If I was willing to compromise I could easily run an inch and a half wheel spacer, or get rims with less backspacing which might cut it on a street car.

So I'm back to the RideTech spindles. I had to ream the spindles to get them to fit the upper and lower Ball joints. Most of the Ford ball joints are 1.5 inch taper to foot. Most of the Dodge BJ tapers are the same. The correlation here is the dodge BJs are screw in. The GM BJ tapers are all over the place 1.5, 1.6, 2.0 to the foot.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
18x10 in the front. That's crazy.
What are you going to run in the rear ?
I'm planning on keeping the 17x10.5 315/35 out back. I did some trial fitment and I think I can get the same to work on the front but it's going to be tight. The fenders will need to be modified and the control arms will be 1.5-2.5 inches longer.

hopefully not like this
 

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Hey Johnny

I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind sharing your setup.


1- What headers are you running with the 64' and 460 combo? I have the Crites style headers where the 2 front tubes go down under the lower control arm's and I hate them.


2- I believe you said that your running a Caviler rack n pinion, do you have a write up on that install? I've seen other write ups but not with a 385 series engine.


3- Are you going to be selling your Fatman control arms? If so I would be interested in purchasing them.


Thanks


Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Hey Johnny

I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind sharing your setup.


1- What headers are you running with the 64' and 460 combo? I have the Crites style headers where the 2 front tubes go down under the lower control arm's and I hate them.
Headers seem to be a problem with these cars and 385 series blocks. The Crites ones are probably fine if your car is not lowered and best for an all out drag car. I spent a LARGE chunk of change on the FPA headers which while they were a nice quality piece they simply did not fit. The front tube on the drivers side lays smack on the engine mount. After sending a bunch of pictures to FPA I think his name was Stan, he basically blew me off. I have since re routed the front header tube to make it fit. Also the collectors had to be pie cut and welded back together so that it didn't point directly at the body mount. It's really not an issue of space with the rack, there is plenty. I'm sure there is something off the shelf for another application that would work or at least be modified to work. I'm probably not much help here, If I had to do it again I would buy a build your own header kit.

2- I believe you said that your running a Caviler rack n pinion, do you have a write up on that install? I've seen other write ups but not with a 385 series engine. There isn't anything unique about big block VS FE or even small block on this one. Still a front sump oil pan and rear steer configuration. The brackets bolt into the steering box and idler arm positions and the rack sits in between. You will loose some steering radius and the rack will not have as much throw as the original setup. The biggest trick was routing all of the steering joints so that they did not bind. I ended up using a different steering column but I think the original could be used.


3- Are you going to be selling your Fatman control arms? If so I would be interested in purchasing them.
Ill let you know, I'm not ready to give anything up yet as my setup is still in the mock phase. At this point I will not be using the uppers but I might still use the lowers.

Thanks


Justin
Good luck with your setup, If it was easy everyone would be doing it :wink2:
 

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Thanks for the info Johnny

I have been in contact with Maddog Headers and supposedly they have a set of 2" primary longtubes that all 4 pipes stay on top of the engine cradle/cross member and exit out the back. This spring I might order up a set but I'm skeptical how the fitment will be because I run a TKO600 behind my 466 and with a big blow proof bellhousing I anticipate clearance/fitment issues.

I have a couple more questions if you don't mind

1- What application is your oil pan for?

2- Do you know of any non-power center steer racks? I don't currently have PS but If I go with a rack n pinion ill probably just bite the bullet and upgrade but I'm a fan of having different options to choose from.

BTW, NICE Gal
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks for the info Johnny

I have been in contact with Maddog Headers and supposedly they have a set of 2" primary longtubes that all 4 pipes stay on top of the engine cradle/cross member and exit out the back. This spring I might order up a set but I'm skeptical how the fitment will be because I run a TKO600 behind my 466 and with a big blow proof bellhousing I anticipate clearance/fitment issues.

I have a couple more questions if you don't mind

1- What application is your oil pan for?It is a Canton BBF road race pan. If you go this route make sure you check it for straightness. I had a major oil leak and it turned out to be a warped oil pan. I was able to pound it out flat and it hasn't leaked since.

2- Do you know of any non-power center steer racks? I don't currently have PS but If I go with a rack n pinion ill probably just bite the bullet and upgrade but I'm a fan of having different options to choose from. I'm not aware or anything non powered but i didn't really look.

BTW, NICE Gal
Thanks it's a work in progress always
 

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Discussion Starter #51
A bit of progress to report. The car is back down on it's wheels and I am moving forward with the Ridetech spindles. Also found a great deal on some Wilwood brakes.

The ride height is about where I want it to be, I have about 4 inches of ground clearance. Any less in my opinion can be problematic on the street.

Here is a shot of the brake setup. 12.88 in 6 piston calipers. The big Gal lost 42 lbs of unsprung weight!

Here is a little trick that is often overlooked when lowering a car. Changing the length of the lower ball joint can lower or raise the front end, in some cases up to 1.5 inches. you don't lose any suspension travel like cutting the springs, and generally this improves your camber curve. If you are into that sort of thing :) Howe and others sell some nice aftermarket ball joints.

Next steps will be modeling the new setup in Suspension Analyzer and figuring out bump steer and ackerman.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
offset shafts and concentric nut

Well this thing is falling off the tracks, The further along I go the more I regret not chopping the front end of and getting one of them fancy pro-touring clips.

I took some measurements on the offset shaft and nut, this might come in handy.


The Fatman control arms have served me well, but in order to optimize the suspension for my purposes, I needed the ball joint to be about 2 inches further out and moved forward slightly forward. So I am building my own.



This is a fun story, I spent a few hours trying to find poly bushings that would fit the 3/4 inch front and 7/8 inch rear control arm bolts to no avail. I ended up finding some energy suspension bushings that have 7/8 inch ID on the bushing. then I will run a 3/4 id - 7/8 od sleeve. the rear control arm bolt will be replaced with a 3/4 bolt and a sleeve. I'm not to concerned about it though. I plan on building a second "leg" to support the other end of the bushing anyway.

I'm also going to a complete coilover shock, so that I can move the pivot points out as close to the BJ as possible. I'm not sure how this is going to work out just yet, may involve removing part of the existing spring bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Hi guys,
Making some progress. I have never been fond of the one sided control arm mounts, this is the only car I have seen this on. So I added a second shear of each bolt. During this process I found out that my car was likely in an accident as the control arm bolts where not in alignment on the passenger side. Took a bit of doing but they are now perfectly straight.

Starting to work out the sway bar, looks like it won't be to much trouble.

I have my control arms close to being complete. I decided to bring them to a friend to have them welded up. My little 110 mig doesn't cut it when welding 1/4 steel. should have them done by next weekend. Also Recieved notice that my coilovers from ridetech shipped today. things are coming together nicely.
 

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Just caught this thread, hows the car coming along? Also can you elaborate a little more on those custom ball joints, Id like to lower the front end about .5" - 1" and really would like to avoid cutting any more coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Just caught this thread, hows the car coming along? Also can you elaborate a little more on those custom ball joints, Id like to lower the front end about .5" - 1" and really would like to avoid cutting any more coils.
check out howe or other race car parts, maybe even summit would have them. most ball joints can be had in +1 inch
 
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