I'm planning on keeping the 17x10.5 315/35 out back. I did some trial fitment and I think I can get the same to work on the front but it's going to be tight. The fenders will need to be modified and the control arms will be 1.5-2.5 inches longer.18x10 in the front. That's crazy.
What are you going to run in the rear ?
Good luck with your setup, If it was easy everyone would be doing it :wink2:Hey Johnny
I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind sharing your setup.
1- What headers are you running with the 64' and 460 combo? I have the Crites style headers where the 2 front tubes go down under the lower control arm's and I hate them.
Headers seem to be a problem with these cars and 385 series blocks. The Crites ones are probably fine if your car is not lowered and best for an all out drag car. I spent a LARGE chunk of change on the FPA headers which while they were a nice quality piece they simply did not fit. The front tube on the drivers side lays smack on the engine mount. After sending a bunch of pictures to FPA I think his name was Stan, he basically blew me off. I have since re routed the front header tube to make it fit. Also the collectors had to be pie cut and welded back together so that it didn't point directly at the body mount. It's really not an issue of space with the rack, there is plenty. I'm sure there is something off the shelf for another application that would work or at least be modified to work. I'm probably not much help here, If I had to do it again I would buy a build your own header kit.
2- I believe you said that your running a Caviler rack n pinion, do you have a write up on that install? I've seen other write ups but not with a 385 series engine. There isn't anything unique about big block VS FE or even small block on this one. Still a front sump oil pan and rear steer configuration. The brackets bolt into the steering box and idler arm positions and the rack sits in between. You will loose some steering radius and the rack will not have as much throw as the original setup. The biggest trick was routing all of the steering joints so that they did not bind. I ended up using a different steering column but I think the original could be used.
3- Are you going to be selling your Fatman control arms? If so I would be interested in purchasing them.
Ill let you know, I'm not ready to give anything up yet as my setup is still in the mock phase. At this point I will not be using the uppers but I might still use the lowers.
Thanks it's a work in progress alwaysThanks for the info Johnny
I have been in contact with Maddog Headers and supposedly they have a set of 2" primary longtubes that all 4 pipes stay on top of the engine cradle/cross member and exit out the back. This spring I might order up a set but I'm skeptical how the fitment will be because I run a TKO600 behind my 466 and with a big blow proof bellhousing I anticipate clearance/fitment issues.
I have a couple more questions if you don't mind
1- What application is your oil pan for?It is a Canton BBF road race pan. If you go this route make sure you check it for straightness. I had a major oil leak and it turned out to be a warped oil pan. I was able to pound it out flat and it hasn't leaked since.
2- Do you know of any non-power center steer racks? I don't currently have PS but If I go with a rack n pinion ill probably just bite the bullet and upgrade but I'm a fan of having different options to choose from. I'm not aware or anything non powered but i didn't really look.
BTW, NICE Gal
check out howe or other race car parts, maybe even summit would have them. most ball joints can be had in +1 inchJust caught this thread, hows the car coming along? Also can you elaborate a little more on those custom ball joints, Id like to lower the front end about .5" - 1" and really would like to avoid cutting any more coils.