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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i wanted to move my brake shoes a little closer to the drum, on the left front. removed tire and tried to pull drum off. drum wont come off!
removed cotter pin and bearing to get it off. that is not the way to do it . (is it!!) I dont think so but it was the first time i operated on that wheel.
Question is...... is drum frozen on or what????
 

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Before the drum will come off you will probably just need to adjust the brakes down some. To adjust the brakes you don't need to remove the drum. Use a flat tip screw driver or brake 'spoon' if you have one to turn the adjusting wheel. It is accessed on the back side of the tire/wheel/drum through a slot about 2 inches wide by 3/8-7-16 high. It might have a rubber plug in it you will need to remove. If you shine a flashlight in the slot you will see a spur like wheel. That's what you turn to adjust the brakes. Forget which way is which but if you can turn your tire/wheel it's not stuck, just need to back off the brake shoes. I don't know about anyone else but when i adjust mine i adjust til i can just hear the shoes sliding on the drum on both sides. It's better to do both not just one.

Somewhere someone posted some great pics of a brake job, maybe someone will repost as i can't find it. Here's some pics showing removal of a drum to change brakes on a different car. The brakes and all are the same. The pic that should show is the adjustment wheel i was trying to describe.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild/mump_0103_front_drum_brake_rebuild/photo_16.html

And below is where it is located as seen from inside the drum.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild/mump_0103_front_drum_brake_rebuild/photo_17.html
 

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i wanted to move my brake shoes a little closer to the drum, on the left front.
Ok procedure to do so was explained in ShotRods reply other than he was thinking for removal of drum...
removed tire and tried to pull drum off. drum wont come off!
Thats correct, it wont just pull off...
removed cotter pin and bearing to get it off. that is not the way to do it . (is it!!)
Yep, but to just adjust brakes OUT removal of drum/hub not necessary...
I dont think so but it was the first time i operated on that wheel.
Question is...... is drum frozen on or what????
No its not frozen if it turns, and they are the same from side to side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
brakes were not the problem. drum slid rite off brakes. when i pulled bearing.
hub should stay on with all studs. drum should slide thru studs. only removing drum. breaks were not even dragging on drum.. (that is why i was in there) right side brake doing all the work car was pulling to the right.
 

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Not sure I understand your comment. The front hub is pressed onto the front drum. In order to get the drum off the spindle, the hub needs to come off with it. In order to get the hub off the spindle, you need to remove the bearings.

If your car is pulling to one side then chances are that the opposite side is not adjusted correctly, or the side doing the pulling is adjusted to tight. Try to adjust both front adjusters so that you have the same drag on both front wheels. Also make sure that the drums don't have a lot of rust inside them, as that will cause a pull to one side until the rust is removed.
 

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Ok, so I shouldn't have used the word "pressed". How about it is an "interference fit". Either way, you need to remove the bearing and pull the hub and drum as one assembly.
 

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Here are pics of front drum after removing it from the spindle. 1.) getting the wheel seal out of the hub, 2.) getting the hub out of the drum.
 

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Ok, so I shouldn't have used the word "pressed". How about it is an "interference fit". Either way, you need to remove the bearing and pull the hub and drum as one assembly.
The two pieces are pressed together. FORD only sold passenger car front drums as an assembly. Aftermarket drums are available without the hub.

Now I think you are one of the few here that realize taking a BFH to a drum and hub asm may cause the drum flange to deform. The correct service procedure is to press on and off supporting the drum flange in the process.

Most reputable shops have a shop press. Heat and beat shops do not.

Most likely if the drum slid off the hub, it had already been the subject of a BFH before in it's service life.

Now, let the games begin. I expect at a minimum a fifty post count on this thread... :frown:

First you FE, then mumbles and geometry challenged Ragamuffin
 

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Now, let the games begin. I expect at a minimum a fifty post count on this thread... :frown:

First you FE, then mumbles and geometry challenged Ragamuffin
good thing you have that "DISCLAIMER" at the bottom of your posts...or.....:D
 

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The two pieces are pressed together. FORD only sold passenger car front drums as an assembly. Aftermarket drums are available without the hub.

Now I think you are one of the few here that realize taking a BFH to a drum and hub asm may cause the drum flange to deform. The correct service procedure is to press on and off supporting the drum flange in the process.

Most reputable shops have a shop press. Heat and beat shops do not.

Most likely if the drum slid off the hub, it had already been the subject of a BFH before in it's service life.

Now, let the games begin. I expect at a minimum a fifty post count on this thread... :frown:

First you FE, then mumbles and geometry challenged Ragamuffin
Like I said 3 other times. Not going to happen ol boy.

The Drums from the factory are NOT pressed on kultulz. In face I've have SEVERAL All original 60-66 era front drums in my hands that did NOT need a BFH. Because they had Hub Caps on the wheels their entire life.

To remove the hub only took a slight bump with a small ball peen in a circle around the bearing cup lip.

They were definitely NOT pressed in with a hydraulic press, more like the pressure of one palm holding the drum and one holding the hub and pressing together., but definitely not with any untoward pressure on them and they were bone stock originals.

If you mic the hub and mic the opening you will find that they are exactly the same diameter + - a hundred-thousandth or so. It's definitely NOT a squeeze it on type situation though.
 

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Factory front hubs and drums were held together by the lug studs that were swedged to keep the drum from coming off by itself. Most after market and factory replacement front drums are that way. I know that you can buy replacement drums that don't come with the hub, but if the orginal hub and drum have not been apart before then most times you have to press or drive the lug studs out (with a BFH) to get the drum off. With the studs out the drum will almost fall off.
 

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Some are swedged and some aren't. some have retainer clips and some don't.
Post a photo of a non-swedged lug bolt and/or this retention clip you are referring to.

You should have left well enough alone.

The actual tech was described correctly above (63ford406).

T

Most likely if the drum slid off the hub, it had already been the subject of a BFH before in it's service life.
Many will be aware of O/S lug bolts (swedge) that are available for service to replace a bolt whose swedge will not allow it to retain the drum properly or spins in the hub bore(s). FORD recommended the drum/hub asm to be replaced if more than two lug bolts had to be replaced. That was for a reason.

And it is one heck of a lot easier to service drum brakes with the hub out of the way. GM had the removable drum in the early sixties. PIA.
 
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