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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Update: I replaced the valve stem seals with new Fel Pro seals, still smoked for a bit but cleared up after a couple of miles at 60 mph. No smoke at all now. I adjusted the idle (Holley 4010) and it idles perfect when parked. It has a intermittent misfire when driving though, and has a whistle when accelerating. I have not figured out the proper vacuum line circuit, or added a PCV valve yet. I'm thinking that might be part of my problem. Thanks for all of the good advice on changing seals, it went pretty smoothly.
 

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Another thing to consider is the distributor. By now it is a safe bet that the bushings are worn to a point that the the dwell is constantly changing which also moves the timing around. Look into a rebuilt one with a new vacuum advance, and add a Petronics electronic conversion. On the carburetor just look for the vacuum port that has no vacuum at idle. Connect that one to the distributor. Hold off on the PCV system until the engine is running good and you are satisfied then add the PCV conversion.
 

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to get a super base line regarding vacuum lines, the bare minimums you need will depend on the car.
1: manifold vacuum to distributor advance. this will be low vacuum port on the front or side of carb. you can get by w out this if need be. feel free to cap it for preliminary.
2: if you car has power brakes, one to the brake booster. this should be obvious if its there. not optional if its present

3: if its an automatic, one from back of motor/manifold to modulator. should be a steel line poking up from the back of the motor to connect a vaccum line to. also not optional if present.

the rest can be plugged off for the mean time (if there are any more) to set baseline running tune.

also check for any vacuum leaks on existing lines that are hooked up. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I should change the title of this post; the engine idles pretty good for awhile when first started. It has a manual choke, but I never need it. I just open the throttle a bit and it fires up. It really stinks like it's getting too much fuel. It still loads up and starts missing under any load. If I open it up while parked, it blows black droplets out of both tail pipes on the garage floor. What I've done:
checked for vac leaks
Vacuum advance works properly
New plug wires
New Pertronix ignition
Adjusted timing
New valve stem seals
Checked float levels when running
I'm thinking it's a carb issue. I've been reading the Holley 4010 wasn't a great carb. Might be time to try a different one. Any thoughts? Edelbrock 1406, Summit 8600?
 

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thats a great carb. i would drop the float level a bit, bet it goes away. sounds like the fuel is getting warm and over flowing into the motor when warm. or seeping in is better to say. has the carb been rebuilt?

if not... well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
thats a great carb. i would drop the float level a bit, bet it goes away. sounds like the fuel is getting warm and over flowing into the motor when warm. or seeping in is better to say. has the carb been rebuilt?

if not... well.
Not that I know of. this was my Dad's car, he passed and I don't know what was done to it. So you would rebuild that one rather change it? I've been told that Holley is a pain to get set right.
 

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^ this is exactly where i was going w the rebuild suggestion, the PV is likely the culprit, but a rebuild is needed as well if its unknown, because the accelerator pump diaphragm will be next to go. literally a 30 minute job on one of these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
^ this is exactly where i was going w the rebuild suggestion, the PV is likely the culprit, but a rebuild is needed as well if its unknown, because the accelerator pump diaphragm will be next to go. literally a 30 minute job on one of these.
Thank you both. It looks like the power valve is included in the kit. I guess I'll try that next. Thanks again.
 

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In addition to the power valve another problem could be with the gaskets under the metering block. New ones come with the rebuild kit, sometimes there is more than 1 gasket in the kit, be sure it matches the old one. Also the gasket that goes under the power valve sometimes there is more than 1 so be sure to use the right one. Some Holleys need the float setting with the engine running. The rebuild kit should have the instructions.
The original carburetor was the “cracker box” style, they are the easiest to rebuild. Hopefully the Holley is the correct replacement model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It's actually a 4011. The list number is 84010, which made me think it was a 4010. But reading the spec manual in the kit, I realize it's a 4011. Same kit fortunately.
I'm currently battling getting the new vacuum secondary diaphragm back in the housing. I also can't find any info on a dry float setting, only instructions on the running wet float setting. Not sure where to set it on the bench.
 
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