1965 2dr restoration

14293 Views 202 Replies 20 Participants Last post by Touring919, 10 d ago

Touring919

Discussion Starter · Apr 6, 2022 (Edited)

Going to try to keep an index of the high points on this initial post

Page 1&2: intoruction, disassembly, rust repair of roof, floor, trunk and some misc areas.
Page 3&4: frame and suspension restore and engine tear down.
Page 5: quarter replacements and axle rebuild.
Page 6: third brake light design and performance drum brakes and vintage air mounting method
Page 7: three point seatbelt install how too.
Page 8/9: Paint work

Well I have a bit of a head start now. 250hrs worth! So I'll start sharing my progress. The plan will be to keep this thread going until it's done. Which has a long way to go.
Surfing the webs I was snagged in an eBay trap. Found a unicorn of a galaxie and couldn't resist. Saw there was an hour left with no bids so I got the guys contact and kept in touch after the auction ended. He received no bids! Can't imagine why.

Wheel Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive tire

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Dakar09

· #5 · Apr 6, 2022

You saved it, and I respect that! You're obviously not afraid to get into some serious work, either. I suck at bodywork, so welding and replacing panels is something I avoid at all costs. I can do anything mechanical, just not sheetmetal work. My welding is well below heinous.

Parts car:
1) Are the roofs the same? If so, that's pretty wild a 4 dr roof is the same as a 2dr. Either really good thinking or really lazy design by Ford. Either way it works!
2) Are those mid-80's Lincoln rims on there? I remember cleaning those on my mom's Town Car back in the day...they sucked, lol

Looking forward to this build!

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Dakar09

· #9 · Apr 7, 2022

Jeeebus, that is already a ton of work. The spread of rust never ceases to amaze me. Good thing you had that extra roof and you can weld WAY better than I can, lol

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Dakar09

· #30 · Apr 27, 2022

I can't even imagine this level of work. But I can imagine the words that came out of your mouth when you opened the trunk, lol

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Dakar09

· #58 · Jun 3, 2022

LOVE that your daughter is right in there with you! @gearheadct, mine is also in college and has plans for ME to do a JDM build "with her" but I reminded her that she only spent 15 min at a time helping me wrench on things when she was younger. I like her enthusiasm, but not her commitment, lol

@Touring919, don't you love kickin yourself in the ar$e for waiting to buy better equipment 😉

I'm going to guess "hood hinges" are coming up in the next episode of "Touring's Tear Down"

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Dakar09

· #60 · Jun 3, 2022

Admittedly, I will sometimes continue using old methods or tools even knowing there is a better tool to do it with. I'm stubborn sometimes. But your analogy is spot on!

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Dakar09

· #88 · 11 mo ago

Did you enlarge the holes as well? Some people take those out to 7/16" or so and then smooth out the "turn" inside the passage within the block between the oil filter and oil pump inlet. But as you said...do you need to? Probably not, should you? If you're comfortable doing it, sure.

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Dakar09

· #90 · 11 mo ago

I hear you. There are many schools of thought and opinions out there on this (and all oil passage mods on FEs, for that matter). But we know what opinions are like, eh?

These things ran great from the factory with what they came with, so you're not exactly building a slouch if you leave things alone

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Dakar09

· #92 · 11 mo ago

I meant the oil passages were okay from the factory, not what you were building

Can you actually find Trick Flow heads? And I read somewhere they needed some massaging before you installed the valve train (maybe Barry R.'s book).

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Dakar09

· #187 · 1 mo ago

Touring919 said:
View attachment 175789

Is that the actual location for the toploader shifter to come through the floor?! I have to cut mine out soon for my conversion and was wondering just how off-centered it was. And based on the location of the shifter mechanism on the toploader I just rebuilt, I was starting to think it was quite a bit off to the side (as your pic shows).