1965 2dr restoration

Some small progress this week. Got the hardware all coated with por15.

mid you look close two of the pad pieces look different. I had to make some new ones using some existing body mount washers and the shank of some rusted body mount bolts.

cut the shanks from this already cut bolt that was seized to the original nut. Ground clean the old washer and they fit like a glove.

run a bead around the top

then grind off the excess so it is flat. Fits the rubber isolators perfect and is same dimensions as the old pads. Except I left the shaft a little longer. It is a thru hole so no harm there.

now I just need to find a two post lift or several dead lifters to set this big body back on the frame.

I could use my cherry picker but I’m not sure I want to screw around with that balancing act. that requires a sturdy beam through the roof centered on the CG so it balances. One person jacking while another helps balance and align. Probably easier and definitely less risky to transport to a 2 post. Yes I am thinking out loud right now.

I finally quit being indecisive about my seats. Decided to go with modern buckets despite the fact I love benches. I plan to use this for a variety of vehicle discipline and a bench seat is more of a single discipline capable seat.

So I went with a set of corbeu seats to give some lateral support and long drive lumbar and headrest support. And not have the seat back flop forward anytime I hit the brakes hard.

So the bench seat mount holes are not enough. And the cross brace is lacking for a bucket set up. This would require welding. Wanted to finish this before painting. Had to get on this quick. I raided the kids craft supplies and
had them help cut out a template and then transfer that to 16g steel.

Added section of square stock to add some additional stiffness
Then it is stitch welded into place.

The rails from the after market seats are longer than the oem seat. I didn’t like the idea of having the rear quarter of the rail cantilevered off the back of the cross braces. I extended the mounting area using .125" thick steel strips.

I used the rail to mark hole distances. Simple and way more reliable than my tape measuring skills. I used a washer to trace a nice circle for the bolt holes. In these situations I find my plasma cutter is way faster than my dull drill bits. This is why a circle is drawn instead of a dot with a center punch.

Once the holes were “drilled” they were ready to simply lay into place and get welded. Under the rear hole is a threaded bushing to provide support as well as a “nut”. These seats are not going to move around as body weight is shifted!
I’ll brush on some por15 for rust prevention.

It is official. Cooler has started to get laid down.
Made a bank of filters I can jamb between the sliding doors. Very nice to have as it helps to diffuse the incoming air as well as filter it. All the “blue” areas are masked. Roof has been sanded with 400 grit.
Laid down the Wimbledon white. And the clear went on very nice. Should need very minimal wet sanding to just get the small dirt bumps sanded flat.
no orange peel here.


Contrast this pic of the passenger side roof corner with where it started on page one!

Then there is this mother f&@$er

Luckily it was so soon after laying down a thick coat the bugger’s tracks self leveled after 30 minutes. Glad I opted for the slow cure hardener.

It is blue! But first there was the final sanding. Where I found lots of pin holes and divots. Could have sworn I caught them all but I guess not.

the picture just has the freshly applied spotting puddy in place. Once sanded there is a small red dot about the size of a pin head. Invisible once painted over.
next came the masking. I really don’t like masking. But it is a necessary evil.

everything was sanded with 400 grit. About as fine as one can go without getting wet. Admittedly I never tried dry sanding with 600. Maybe I should. But I’ve never had issues with 400 so why go more if one doesn’t need too. (I have a friend that wet sand with 800 before painting. His paint jobs are well into 5 figures! On cars well into 6 figures, and sometimes 7, so he’s on a different level). Anyway you can see a slight sheen on the primer after taking out the orange peel with 400.
Next came the Washington blue. 4 light coats of blue.

Then two good coats of clear.

one final pic with all the masking removed

i know. Not the correct cut lines for painting the firewall. Next up are the Hood, trunk lid, fenders and a couple small trim pieces remain. I have to admit I was not happy with my quarter panel fitment. I was worried about how bad the quarters would look with gloss but I’m amazed how well they turned out. I must be getting more picky as my skills improve.
hopefully the last of my engine parts will get here so I can get that painted too!