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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Back to the engine. Time to take apart the reciprocating assembly so it can head to the machine shop. Here is a coupe pics of a cheater methods to get those tight bearing caps out. As a teen I spent forever try g to get these things out. As an adult this came to me and they were out in seconds.
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Get the claw end of the hammer against the cap. Push down on the head of the hammer with one hand and pry on the handle with the other. They pull right up.

Rear main no way to get along side it. Toss in some oil pan bolts and then pry up. Make sure the fulcrum point is on the block. Not the cap. This is why I have another random object under the hammer to insure I pivot on the block. Slid the cap right up and out.
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
When pulling the rods don't forget to put something on the bolts to protect the crank. The crank is like butter compared to rod bolt threads. It will Nick the journals with the slightest hit.
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The bearings looked like new. It is a shame the cylinders were rusted from sitting. Otherwise this thing was good for another pile of miles. Cam looked good too!
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I'd say these bearings were original! 64 date code. Matches all the other date codes.
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Put some radii on the oil filter adapter holes. Necessary. Don't know. Will it hurt. Certainly not. And it's free so what the heck. All the FE books say to do it.
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Next I need to get this off to the machine shop. If they give me the thumbs up on the block rebuildability then it's time to give the checkbook a workout and start buying engine parts.

Hopefully my next update is the completion of the brake rebuild which finishes the chassis up.
 

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Did you enlarge the holes as well? Some people take those out to 7/16" or so and then smooth out the "turn" inside the passage within the block between the oil filter and oil pump inlet. But as you said...do you need to? Probably not, should you? If you're comfortable doing it, sure.
 

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I hear you. There are many schools of thought and opinions out there on this (and all oil passage mods on FEs, for that matter). But we know what opinions are like, eh?

These things ran great from the factory with what they came with, so you're not exactly building a slouch if you leave things alone ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
It will be more than factory.
Keeping stock crank and rods.
Most likely will keep 4100 carb.
Trick flow heads
Harland sharp rockers
Rpm intake
Roller cam. Timing yet to be determined. It will be mild.
Super comp headers with 2.5" duals.

This will be the first I have seen of a true mild build FE with the new Trick flow heads. Any i have seen are high end builds pushing limits. I'm more interested in driving thru town in top gear at about 800 rpm. Hence the mild cam. But when I want to go it would be nice to have a good bit of extra kick.
 

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I meant the oil passages were okay from the factory, not what you were building ;)

Can you actually find Trick Flow heads? And I read somewhere they needed some massaging before you installed the valve train (maybe Barry R.'s book).
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I have corroborating testimony that it is a bolt on affair if you use Harland sharp rocker arms and stands. HS parts require .200 higher mounting surface which is what the TFS heads were built to. Are the HS stands same dimensions as high riser stands? I don't know. I didn't ask.

No. Can't get heads right now. Allegedly they are available in October. I'm a year past that until the car would be back together so I'm fine with waiting. I've got plenty of body work to do. And interior. And electrical.
 
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