[Touring919]

Nice. I see you did a similar set up with seatbelts.
I thought a barrier like that but I am worried the wood can turn into a sort of canvass for a drum seeing as though it's a big unsupported panel.
I see you screwed down to the bracing which should help or maybe eliminate my concern. How does it sound if you thump it with your fist? When driving and the body flexes does it creak?
This fear is why I was thinking of going with something more like a mass loaded drape.

 

[ralph66]

No creak, I lined the back of it with the butyl rubber sound deadener sheet, its got a dull thud to it if bumped.
Screwing it down made it solid and it doesnt drum

 

[Touring919]

Good to hear! Thank you Ralph I think you made up my mind on that divider.

 

[Touring919]

The floors and trunk are officially done! Got the interior side of the floors coated in por15. Same for the trunk. Plus a good double layer of raptor liner. I am very happy with the appearance.
This is after a lot of wire wheeling, brushing and a quick wipe down with degreaser.

Then a coat of the por

Then two coats of raptor liner. Should be water tight now!

 

[Touring919]

Thought to myself I should get all the chassis black items done while the paint is fresh in the can. So I grabbed the inner fenders.

Crap! More rust. I was very excited to move onto prepping the body for paint. The thought of more rust repair was a bit depressing. So after dragging my feet for a bit I finally dug in. Slowly.
Plasma cut the spot welds because time is money! Not really but I am all about efficiency.
Tonight I really got after it. Have to admit I had fun. And it only took two hours start to finish.
First lots of measurements and some laying out on fresh sheet metal.

I always cut with a straight edge when possible. Otherwise my straight cuts look like a drunk blind man cut them.

I lay the straight edge down then simply drag the torch along the side. Works well and it helps me keep a steady pace which minimizes slag.

 

[Touring919]

Then comes bending in my metal brake. Kidding. I use a vice with a hammer.

Starting to see the resemblance now? So far this is one piece that was previously two.
Next was the forward flange. No way I was making that in a vice. I cut a strip the proper length. Added the little jog and then welded it in place.

Last is the triangular flange. First measure and layout.

Then bend to shape. Then weld into place.

Turns out it is all simple shapes and straight bends. So very easy. Hopefully some of these step by step pics relieves some anxiety for anyone thinking of jumping into similar repairs.
Worth noting I made this from 16 gage. So it will be a long while before a battery eats thru this repair. I did this to ensure I had good strength despite my lack of ribbing.
Just need to plug weld it back to the main inner fender then drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Less than an additional hours time.

 

[DesertXL]

Then comes bending in my metal brake. Kidding. I use a vice with a hammer.
View attachment 174181
Starting to see the resemblance now? So far this is one piece that was previously two.
Next was the forward flange. No way I was making that in a vice. I cut a strip the proper length. Added the little jog and then welded it in place.
View attachment 174182
Last is the triangular flange. First measure and layout.
View attachment 174183
Then bend to shape. Then weld into place.
View attachment 174184
Turns out it is all simple shapes and straight bends. So very easy. Hopefully some of these step by step pics relieves some anxiety for anyone thinking of jumping into similar repairs.
Worth noting I made this from 16 gage. So it will be a long while before a battery eats thru this repair. I did this to ensure I had good strength despite my lack of ribbing.
Just need to plug weld it back to the main inner fender then drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Less than an additional hours time.

Hello Touring919,

I just wanted to say you're really coming along well on this project.

Cheers

 

[ralph66]

I agree, it is coming along nicely, inner fenders looking good,
I was lucky with mine, they weren't rotted so could just blast the paint/rust off and then got them powder coated

 

[Touring919]

Thanks everyone who is following along. Slow and steady.

Hope to get these sprayed by Thursday. Last 70 degree day in the foreseeable future. Then it will be a few weeks break while I weld in a floor for someone. Try to replenish some of my hot rod funds!

 

[Touring919]

One additional repair to the inner fenders. The captured nut on one side started to rotate and blew the sides open from its cage.

I cut one end so I could get the nut out and clean it. Then I bent the sides back to the correct shape. Tucked the nut in and welded the cage back down. Added a few tacks on the long sides to ensure it won't blow out again.

Next was more wire wheeling. Wire brushing. Then the marine clean and phosphate etching to get what looks a little like a skeleton of car parts with the black and white change from the etching.

Two coats of por15 later I officially am done with chassis black parts and blew through a gallon of that stuff. Also put two coats of raptor on the inside surface of the wheel wells. That is a quart each side!

 

[Touring919]

I'm officially distracted for a few weeks. Going to work on this bucket of rust for hopefully about 4 weeks and then I'll get back to the galaxie and sending up dates.

It is a 66 f100 cab. Related to galaxies because working on this will help pay for some stuff on my 65 galaxie restification.

Enjoy your thanksgiving folks.

 

[Touring919]

Still working on the cab but found a little time to pick up my engine block and internals from the machine shop.
last weekend I got the pistons installed on the rods. Saves a few buck with FE. Floating pistons means one can put them on oneself.

went for the basement on this one. Comfy sofa and heat were preferred.
race tech pistons out of California were recommended by lykins motorsports. Who also speced my cam. He answered a lot of questions and provided a lot ofinsight for only selling me a cam.
the pistons looked great. Even came with my name engraved in them!
Simple enough to slide the new piston pin and rod together. The snap ring is another story. That took some pain in the thumbs and a bit of trial/error but I eventually got a system that worked.
here is the snap ring not installed yet.

 

[Touring919]

The pistons are forged by the way. And they dishes were custom sized to hit my needs for compression. 9.5:1 with 395 cubic inches and 70cc chambers in the head.

So after about an hour and a half I was all done. Or was I?

as pictured the pistons are in order of 4-3-2-1-5-6-7-8.
look close! Those that know the intake and exhaust on a FE know they go e-i-e-I-I-e-I-e. So yea. I have 4 of the 8 pistons mixed up. I thought it was e-I all the way down but even then I didn’t get it right! Well another 30 minutes of screwing around. Thank got these are not press fit!!
and done done

it would be easier to see if pistons were turned 90 degrees but the rods wouldn’t let me and I wasn’t about to let one roll away for the sake of a picture.
Next up is file fitting the rings and then assembling the rotating assembly.

 

[Touring919]

Finished the cab. Now I can refocus on my project. Got the crank installed.

firstwanted to get the piston rings all gapped and ready.

this goes way faster with a proper tool. Like most things in life! Or at least most things in the garage.
friend of mine let me borrow his ring file from total seal. Man this is nice. Zero the gage then file off the exact amount you need. One cut and done. 800 something bucks I was very happy to borrow instead of buying.

all done. Eachbore has its very own ring. Didn’t need to cut the top rings. They were a little loose at .022 gap. Would have preferred .019 but 22 thou is still ok Since this engine may see road course time. Second ring was filed to .028 and the oil rings were put at .062.

 

[Touring919]

Next I cleaned the new standard king bearings and caps and crank journals. Set the crank in dry and plastigaged all the bearings. Everything was between .0017 and .002. Little tight for a performance build but this won’t rev much past 5k. So I am happy with this. Heaved the crank back out and poured in the assembly lube on the bearings. Read the directions to install rear seals and then I was ready to go. All dropped back in easily and torques off perfect.

these two posts were 4.75 hours worth of work! Next up is dropping in the pistons/rod assemblies.

 

[Touring919]

Taking a break from the engine while I wait for rings to show up. Wrong ones came with the pistons. Racetech had proper documentation of the error so very simple exchange for the correct ones.

so I’m onto body work hard core! Got out the blasting pot and went to town. I practiced for a quick minute on some scrap body parts before Turing the nozzle on something I care about.

I had the pressure set at 30-35 psi. Using crushed glass. 80 grit.
wow this blows thru paint. I’ll never use a wire wheel agin for that! Moves a good bit slower thru rust but still a lot faster than a wire wheel. And it gets into any pitting with ease.

crushed glass is recicleable as an abrasive. So I just sweep it into a pile and scoop it back in the pot thru a strainer.
In all I used 6 bags. So 300 lbs of “sand”. Way less than expected and I have three buckets full of reusable sand for when I get to the other panels. That 2000# pallet I got will last a long time!

 

[Touring919]

All finished. Masking was pointless. Time for clean up. Yay.
But first. The reasons I went with crushed glass.
it is very cost effective since it is from recycled glass to begin with. Very low dust. The sharp edges cut thru paint very well. It is softer and therefore more forgiving than AL oxide for newbie blasters like me. Least toxic of any normal options. Recycalable so one bag can be stretched so to speak.

2.5 hours of sweeping. Scooping. Vacuuming. And finally blowing and the room is back to normal. Can’t say the same for my tool box.
With it all clean I was able to re mask and then some so it is ready for epoxy primer tonight. I masked everything. Attempting to keep the trunk and underbody free of overspray.

 

[Touring919]

Sealed up. PPG CRE epoxy primer.
previously I have used shop line that spays like water. This is an comertial/industrial grade primer. It is thick. The stir stick would stand up in the container.

it looks grainy because it is. Not the primer but the sheet metal. It is pitted from years of sitting outside after the paint was baked off by southern sun.

 

[Marauderjack]

Looks GOOD from here so what do you do now??
Wet sand and prime again until smooth enough for paint??
GOOD LUCK.....CLASSIC FORD!!

 

[Touring919]

Some dents are bigger than I thought so will likely try to get them a little flatter with hammer and dolly.
then it’s filler (bondo) to get it 100% flat. Then a couple coats of primer surfacer (high build 2k primer) and sand most of that back off to get it really smooth. Then it’s ready for color and clear. Sounds fast but my goal is to have it ready for color in the spring.
can’t paint when it is this cold out. This primer was ok. Very little overspray and just one quick layer. So I didn’t vent the booth with the single digit outside air. Just sprayed with a good mask on then got the heck out of there. Paint. Especially clear has a lot of overspray. No way to lay that down without good ventilation. You would literally get lost in the fog.

I did vent while sand blasting. I had ice sickles hanging off my respirator! That was 6.5 hours of mid evil torture. That was the night ohio got down to -8 or so. Will admit blasting is not something I would want to do in summer. But sub zero was too far the other direction. I’d guess 40-45 is optimal for me.