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Hello all, new to forum. don't want to hijack thread but have a few hvac questions. I have a 68 Country Sedan with factory ac/heat. I recently had a power steering line blow and caused an engine fire. Took out ac lines, heater blend door actuator, vacuum lines, wire harness.

I just rebuilt the wire harness, and new power steering lines.

With it being so cold, I tried to run heat but was getting none. I figured ac would not work as I still need to redo those lines,. But thought I'd atleast get heat.

I do recall people saying the way these systems worked were a bit strange. Question, with the vacuum lines being toast, is their anyway to get heater to work? Or do I have to have the vacuum lines all repaired in order for it to work properly.

I manually moved the blend door actuator towards the driver's side, but that just made air blow to the feet.

Anyone also have a part number for the blend door actuator and the temperature adjuster cable?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hello all, new to forum. don't want to hijack thread but have a few hvac questions. I have a 68 Country Sedan with factory ac/heat. I recently had a power steering line blow and caused an engine fire. Took out ac lines, heater blend door actuator, vacuum lines, wire harness.

I just rebuilt the wire harness, and new power steering lines.

With it being so cold, I tried to run heat but was getting none. I figured ac would not work as I still need to redo those lines,. But thought I'd atleast get heat.

I do recall people saying the way these systems worked were a bit strange. Question, with the vacuum lines being toast, is their anyway to get heater to work? Or do I have to have the vacuum lines all repaired in order for it to work properly.

I manually moved the blend door actuator towards the driver's side, but that just made air blow to the feet.

Anyone also have a part number for the blend door actuator and the temperature adjuster cable?


Thanks
Hello Boudreaux80,

A couple things here, first at the risk of restating the beginning of this thread, there is no blend door on these systems and yes the vacuum lines and components need to be mended for heat to work. The heat only cars are very simple and have a mechanical blend door and require no vacuum.

I would strongly encourage you to carefully read the beginning of this thread on how these systems work for heat. You'll want to obtain a copy of the master parts catalogue for Ford cars in this era. It has exploded diagrams and part numbers for these cars as well as others.

Whilst I haven't looked I don't believe your going to find the cable as it's probably been been long discontinued. You'll have to make your own from scratch using casings and cable inserts from places like Lexico or find a used part.

On the Heat-A/C door vacuum servo (the one in the engine compartment atop the plenum) the closest reproduction I could find online is this one Vacuum Actuator, 1961-1966 Thunderbird Air Conditioning Vacuum Actuator Motor

It looks close, but will most likely require modification to work properly in the 3rd generation full size Ford ('65-'68). These usually fail because of the engine heat and exposure to hydrocarbons that deteriorates the rubber diaphragm inside.

Good Luck

Cheers
 

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Beaudreaux, did you move to Alaska? :) on my 65, you can bypass the water control valve and bring the hose straight to the heater. If the core is a functional unit you will get heat, controlled by the fan.
 

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So I finally got the heat working again. The fire melted the little coupling nipples at the firewall just enough to close it up, but on the outside when first looking, looked fine.


Now however after a day of glorious heat in my face, now the air does not flow through the vents, just fully at the floor vent.

I assume while troubleshooting the heat issue, I got a vacuum line that controlled the vents lose and then it popped lose fully.

Any idea where to begins looking?

Thanks again for help.
 

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Hello Boudreaux80,

A couple things here, first at the risk of restating the beginning of this thread, there is no blend door on these systems and yes the vacuum lines and components need to be mended for heat to work. The heat only cars are very simple and have a mechanical blend door and require no vacuum.

I would strongly encourage you to carefully read the beginning of this thread on how these systems work for heat. You'll want to obtain a copy of the master parts catalogue for Ford cars in this era. It has exploded diagrams and part numbers for these cars as well as others.

Whilst I haven't looked I don't believe your going to find the cable as it's probably been been long discontinued. You'll have to make your own from scratch using casings and cable inserts from places like Lexico or find a used part.

On the Heat-A/C door vacuum servo (the one in the engine compartment atop the plenum) the closest reproduction I could find online is this one Vacuum Actuator, 1961-1966 Thunderbird Air Conditioning Vacuum Actuator Motor

It looks close, but will most likely require modification to work properly in the 3rd generation full size Ford ('65-'68). These usually fail because of the engine heat and exposure to hydrocarbons that deteriorates the rubber diaphragm inside.

Good Luck

Cheers
Thanks. Yea I miss called it a blend door. I was able to repair the vacuum and got the heat to work. I also found that the cable is a one year only so will try to figure something on that. Thanks for the link as after doing more looking, now that I had an actual idea thanks to you, it seems that is a very common generic part that is used on a bunch of cars as a replacement for the actual part.

Thanks again for help, now to figure out what I did to stop the air blowing from vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So I finally got the heat working again. The fire melted the little coupling nipples at the firewall just enough to close it up, but on the outside when first looking, looked fine.


Now however after a day of glorious heat in my face, now the air does not flow through the vents, just fully at the floor vent.

I assume while troubleshooting the heat issue, I got a vacuum line that controlled the vents lose and then it popped lose fully.

Any idea where to begins looking?

Thanks again for help.
Hello Boudreaux80,

The only way to get air through the dash vents is in one of the A/C modes (recirc or fresh), heated air is only allowed through the heat or defrost on 3rd generation with factory air. You can manually reroute the vacuum to the heating thermostat and coolant valve and put the A/C on fresh air and you will have heat to the dash vents, but that's a manual work around.

Is that what you are asking?

Cheers
 

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Hello Boudreaux80,

The only way to get air through the dash vents is in one of the A/C modes (recirc or fresh), heated air is only allowed through the heat or defrost on 3rd generation with factory air. You can manually reroute the vacuum to the heating thermostat and coolant valve and put the A/C on fresh air and you will have heat to the dash vents, but that's a manual work around.

Is that what you are asking?

Cheers
Interesting, I could have sworn I had heat coming through the vents when set to Heat on the bottom lever. Being louisiana, I rarely used heat, but when we took the wagon up to cumberland maryland and Virgina early this year I could have sworn I was doing heat through the dash vents. Maybe not.

Thanks again for info.
 

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Hello Ed Galford,

You're welcome.

I do believe it's a 30 amp circuit breaker because it also supplies the clutch as well as the blower motor. You can find 30 amp circuit breakers but you will probably have to do some modification as you won't find the exact replacement with the eyelet on it, but you may get lucky.

Chances are you'll have to use a 10 gauge ATO style inline fuse holder and use the ATO 30 amp circuit breaker and crimp/solder a ring terminal to one end of the fuse holder and attach that to the ignition switch centre terminal and then the other end crimped/soldered into the original feed wire that goes to the blower switch.

Cheers

P.S. please feel free to post your rebuilding pictures of the HVAC system.
good morning, couple pics of my ac rebuild, tested all the new switches and vacuum motor that i have installed, waiting on a nos blower switch, this is a 390 tri power with a new AC Solution compressor and all associated components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
good morning, couple pics of my ac rebuild, tested all the new switches and vacuum motor that i have installed, waiting on a nos blower switch, this is a 390 tri power with a new AC Solution compressor and all associated components.
Hello Ed Galford,

Thanks for sharing the pictures. That's interesting your car has the factory air con but yet has the non air con power steering pump.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ok so tested switching to MAX A/C, Fresh, off, Heat, and Def, and no air is coming out the vents. All coming through the floor area.
Hello Boudreaux80,

That vacuum servo on the engine bay side dictates whether air will flow to the dash vents or to another passage that will either go to defrost or floor vents. All the doors are vacuum operated so you'll need to sort out the melted vacuum portion and restore them for it all to work properly.

Cheers
 

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Hello Ed Galford,

Thanks for sharing the pictures. That's interesting your car has the factory air con but yet has the non air con power steering pump.

Cheers

I did not know that! Thanks for the info, this car was partially restored about 10 yrs ago in a midwest shop, a combination of two cars to build one. It was sold to an individual on the east coast and he never really drove it very often. I am in process of finishing the car. Ironically, the heater/AC control assembly had the vacuum ports but the blower switch was a four terminal type switch with the AC wiring, its been a fun project!
 

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Hello Boudreaux80,

That vacuum servo on the engine bay side dictates whether air will flow to the dash vents or to another passage that will either go to defrost or floor vents. All the doors are vacuum operated so you'll need to sort out the melted vacuum portion and restore them for it all to work properly.

Cheers
Yep, thanks, figured it out. Need to order the vacuum actuator.

Thanks for help
 

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Does anyone happen to have the part number for the bowden cable for the temperature control for 68 Country Sedan (galaxie)?

Is this it? It looks very similar on ends as the one I have, except the rubber grommet part in the middle of the cable. I heard the non ac cars had different cables, so want to make sure this is not for those cars. Thanks in advance.
C8AZ-18552-A
167698
 

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Does anyone happen to have the part number for the bowden cable for the temperature control for 68 Country Sedan (galaxie)?

Is this it? It looks very similar on ends as the one I have, except the rubber grommet part in the middle of the cable. I heard the non ac cars had different cables, so want to make sure this is not for those cars. Thanks in advance.
C8AZ-18552-A
View attachment 167698
According to the MPC, part number C8AZ-18552-A is for the defroster control on vehicles with the forced ventilation system. Part number C8AZ-15518-A is the heater temperature cable for forced air systems and C8AZ-15518-B shows "with heater." Neither one makes any mention of with or without AC that I can see. However, C8AZ-19988-A is listed as the AC temperature control cable. Look at the pages below to determine what is correct for your car.

Text Photograph White Style Line
Text Photograph White Style Monochrome
Text Photograph White Style Line
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Do you have a picture or document on how the heater hose should be routed for a 66 A/C car with 352?
Hello 66CountrySquir,

Whilst I do not have a picture of the routing. The heater hose comes from the top of the manifold 90˚ outlet to the carb base heater, then out the back of the carb base heater along the HVAC case through the loop bracket (screwed on with blower motor mounting screws) then into the area between the wing/fender and in the inner apron to the heater core. From the other nipple of the heater it goes straight under the wing/fender to the wing/fender mounted coolant valve near the starter relay on the apron. Then from the coolant valve straight across to the coolant pump nipple.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
 

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According to the MPC, part number C8AZ-18552-A is for the defroster control on vehicles with the forced ventilation system. Part number C8AZ-15518-A is the heater temperature cable for forced air systems and C8AZ-15518-B shows "with heater." Neither one makes any mention of with or without AC that I can see. However, C8AZ-19988-A is listed as the AC temperature control cable. Look at the pages below to determine what is correct for your car.

View attachment 167701 View attachment 167702 View attachment 167703
Thanks sir, guess I'll try to remove the wire from the melted sleeve and do a universal kit.
 

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good morning, couple pics of my ac rebuild, tested all the new switches and vacuum motor that i have installed, waiting on a nos blower switch, this is a 390 tri power with a new AC Solution compressor and all associated components.
Gorgeous pic of engine bay, love the finned valve covers. Any pics of the tri power? I have a 3x2 set up not on my 390 yet, wonder how well it runs for you. Is it a pain to tune? Thanks
 
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