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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello again,

OK, so we're putting it all back together now. If you're doing a stock rebuild again skip Part 2, and feel free to have a look at Part 1. Just remember in this where I show Torrington's just replace with the correct flat thrust washer from your rebuild kit.

Right, let's crack on...



These are the only two bushings left in the case from last time. It's important to remember where the notches and oiling lines are facing. Also lube up the area with Vaseline or ATF.



Using the appropriate size seal/bearing driver drive the back one to the front and push them both out.



At this point I chose to detail the case with some high temp engine paint.



Again, lube the bushings and area. You'll be driving the front bushing in first so align it carefully and use a rubber mallet to start it off evenly, then use the driver to set it and then do the same for the rear one.



like so



Next take the rear race and with some 320 grit make a cross hatch pattern across the radius.



The reason why is to allow oil to lube the surface better between this and the roller in the one way sprag. Remember two perfectly polished hardened pieces of metal can "ring" together otherwise and you do not want that with moving parts.

Clean and set that aside for now.



Clean the rear case piston (Low-Reverse Clutch) and replace the two old seals with new ones. Again, lube everything, can use ATF or Vaseline or both.



Again lube the piston bore in the case and noting the oil bleed hole install the piston.



You can lightly tap it down, notice I'm use a light hammer and a plastic drift as not to cause damage.



Now we can install the rear race, note the oiling hole location.



Make sure the race is evenly seated, it's a tight fitting lip it sits on and once seated should be able to rotate freely. Rotate to line up the bolt holes and torque gradually in sequence until you reach the final torque value.



Replace the springs. Again everything should be clean and lubed. Can't stress that enough!



Apply the spring retainer.



Compress the springs and place the retaining snap ring in place. This spring compressor was only 35 dollars new and is well worth the money. You can make you own but 35 dollars is a small price compared to the rebuild kit, so why not make life easier and it's easy to use, even for being China special.



Make sure the snap ring is properly seated all the way round.



Place the rear Torrington on the case. Again, clean.... lube...... blah blah blah :)



Place the parking gear on top.



Insert the parking pawl pin.



Then the pawl itself and its return spring.



Install the governor sleeve with the pipes. Lube up the pipes for sure and wiggle and jiggle till all of it is properly seated.



Torque it down to the proper value. The torque values are in the shop manual neatly organized too in a table.



Clean up the tail shaft and especially the internal lube passages.



Remove the governor assembly from its plate for now.



Remove the old rings from the governor plate and install the new ones.



like so.... goes without saying clean and lube.



Slide the governor plate back onto the tail shaft.



Apply the retaining snap ring.



Very carefully slide the assembly into the governor sleeve. Do not force the rings! Lightly wiggle if needed.



It should seat nicely like this.



Next up clean and lube the rear clutch (low-reverse) hub and sprag.



The sprag is captured in the hub by a snap ring on other side.



Insert the hub onto the rear race with a rotating motion while pushing.



Slide the Torrington in place. Gobs of Vaseline will help hold it to the rear race properly.



Next install the rear planetary outer ring gear and hub into place.



Then install the retaining snap ring. This will now hold all the parts into place and nothing should come out. Check for smooth turning. Noting there will be drag from the fresh governor rings in the sleeve at this point.



These are the low-reverse clutch frictions, steels, pressure plate and retaining snap ring. This is one clutch I didn't have to modify as it was already configured from the factory to house all the frictions and steels in the kit. It gets installed as shown from right to left.



Remember to soak the frictions in ATF for 15 minutes before assembly. I use a large ziplock bag, that way you do not waste much ATF and they soak well.



done.



Grease (Vaseline) up the Torrington so it stays in place.



Install the rear planetary.



Install the planetary retaining ring. You will most likely have to lift up on the outer clutch hub to get the snap ring to seat. This keeps all these pieces in place.



Next install the parking pawl apply hardware. The pivot shaft and spring.



Then the apply lever.



Note spring orientation.

continued on post 2
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Continued from post #1




And install the welch plug.



Install the new manual selector shaft seal. Just taps in with a rubber or plastic mallet.



Install the manual shaft.



Install the parking pawl apply rod



And torque down the retaining nut.



Install the guide plate, torque down and test the function of the parking pawl.



Install the detent shaft seal.



The detent rod itself.



The vacuum modulator spool valve goes in next.



Along with the new modulator, gasket and pin. Tighten down.



Other case hardware can be attached, I've temporarily placed on the detent lever onto the shaft noting it's correct position.



These are the next bits to install in order from right to left. As always clean and lube. I've already replaced the bushings of the sun gear captured in the sun shell.



The Torrington, then the sun shell.



The forward planetary and then the larger Torrington bearing.



The race for the factory planetary Torrington.



Then the forward planetary outer ring gear/forward clutch inner hub.



This is one of the thrust washers that is not converted to a roller but it is new and greased to stay in place.



This is the assembly of the forward clutch.



Install the new rings. Remember these latch so be sure they are properly latched.



One of the piston seals goes inside the drum. I'm actually holding up the old seal next to the new seal in its place.



The other seal goes on the piston itself.

Again I'm holding onto the old seal. I should mention these seals were rock hard and broke like pretzels. While this transmission did work initially no doubt it was hemorrhaging to death internally and the forward clutch was slipping and started to burn.



Place the piston into its bore. Again clean and lube, lube, lube...



Place the apply ring to the piston.



Place the piston return Belleville spring into place. Check for fatigue cracks or replace with a new one, they are cheap.



Walk the spring retainer snap ring into place around the spring. Oddly you do not need a spring compressor. Just a little patience and a screwdriver.



Next the lower pressure plate goes on first.



Then the frictions and steels followed by the upper pressure plate and topped off with the retaining snap ring. Soak frictions in ATF...



Again, double check your work and gap clearance.



Align the notches in the frictions and then wiggle and jiggle the forward clutch onto the hub below. Keep wiggling to make sure all friction splines are mated to the splines on the inner hub.



like so



Here's the parts for the High-Reverse (direct) clutch.



First up is to replace the bushings. You can use the seal/bearing driver to remove the wider bushing and a drift to carefully remove the narrow bushing. Then use the seal/bearing driver to install both squarely, in a press works the best.



Again new seals, one goes in the clutch drum. Notice I'm holding the old one which is as brittle and hard as glass.



The other one goes round the piston.



Carefully place the piston in its bore. Clean, lube, blagh blagh blagh



Insert the springs.



Use the spring compressor to compress the spring plate and install the retaining snap ring.



Make sure everything is seated nicely.



Install the frictions, steels and pressure plate and finally the selective retaining snap ring.



Again double check your work.



Install this thrust washer with a new one and really grease this to hold into place. (Will be up-side-down when assembling)



I've also earlier took some 320 grit and cross hatched a nice pattern into the direct drum surface for better oil distribution between this and the band. Sorry this picture is a little out of sequence.



Lining up the friction teeth before hand, lower the direct clutch onto the forward clutch hub. Again wiggle and jiggle until sure all teeth are engaged and seating properly.



Everything is seated properly here. Notice the gaps.



After soaking the band in ATF, maneuver it into place over the direct clutch drum.



like this.



Here we have the pump and stator bits and bobs for assembly.



Starting with the pump bushing, which is actually the torque convertor snout bushing. Note the location of the notch, the instructions are pretty specific about how it's clocked upon assembly.

continued on post #3 (hit picture limit)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
continued from post #2



Dont forget the new seal.



The bushings in the stator are little buggers. In order to easily get them out I VERY CAREFULLY used a bare hacksaw blade to slice each one. It was painstaking but worked very well. Take note the oiling grooves are different for these two so be aware of where they go along with clocking of them.



Replace the rings, again they are locking.



Lube the snot out of the pump gears.



Assembly the stator support onto the pump.



Torque the bolts evenly and then lube and install outer ring seal.



This is the pump selective washer that goes between the stator snout and the direct clutch. This one is plastic, either metal or plastic will do.



Wet the new pump gasket and install.



Lube it all and lower the pump slowly into position lining up the bolt holes as you go. Use a punch if you have to, just don't damage the threads in the case.



Before tightening down the pump bolts make sure the guts rotate and are not binding. If they are you have friction not engaged or a flat thrust washer or Torrington out of place. As you tighten the pump bolts keep checking there is no binding.

Then once torqued down, check end play, should be the same value as in part 2 at the end of the thread. If not recheck everything...



Use a screwdriver or other lever to lift up on the rotating guts after you've pushed down on the input shaft and zeroed the dial gauge, this is your total end play. I've set mine to 0.017" You want this setting on the low side with the Torringtons so they are not slamming around or falling out of grooves.



If you haven't already done so, you can air check the clutches. This is the rear (low-reverse) clutch.



You can use this port and the one to the right of it to check the forward and direct clutches.



Next clean all the parts for the governor and make sure the spool valves move freely in their bores, lube and assemble.



checking...



Note the orientation and attach.



Torque down the governor.



Install the new bushing and seal into the tail shaft housing. Note the drain hole location in the bushing.



Wet the extension housing gasket and install the extension housing.



Torque it down. Now it's starting to look like something.



Here's the Intermediate Band Apply Servo assembly.



Install the new seals on the piston.



As well as on the housing.



Spring goes in first.



Install the piston into its bore.



With the new gasket install the servo.



Carefully draw up the bolts and torque down. The ears are fragile so do not try to tighten one bolt at a time.



Hold the servo apply lever in place



While inserting the pin.



Then the retaining ball.



Use a punch or drift to set the ball all the way down.



Using a small centre punch stake the case on both sides to keep the ball in place.



Install the band adjustment bolt.



Install the band apply shoes.



Install the new jamb nut and tighten the bolt and jamb nut per the shop manuals instructions.



Valve body has been disassembled and cleaned and ready for assembly.



The manual valve goes in.



The detent piece and spring are loaded.



Use a small punch to hold the spring into place while the pin is drawn over the spring by pliers.



Install the detent/kickdown valve in next.



Followed by the spring and retainer.



like so



Install the line pressure regulator and pressure boost valving into place.



little details


done.



Tackle these next. As always clean and lube , either ATF or Vaseline.



Torque the plate down properly.



Last of them.

Continued on post #4
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
continued from post #3



Again torque down properly.



Here is what's left to assemble on the valve body.



The new gasket goes on. Reminder there are two possible valve body gaskets, one for 1966 dual range only and the other models called select shift. This is still the 1966 dual range valve body so requires the hard to find 1966 gasket.



Attach the spacer plate and the two retainers.



On the valve body side flipped over there are 2 check balls and a spring. This one is the 2-3 shift check ball.



And the converter pressure relief spring and ball go here.



Assemble the two halves.



I went with a Wix filter as its screen appears to be a finer mesh than the OEM Ford one.



Torque the filter down.



Install the valve and torque it down.



Install the pan gasket wet.



I powder coated the pan and installed a drain plug with a magnet. Bolt this on the transmission.



While you can buy a new neutral safety/backup lamp switch, I thought I'd try to revitalize the old one. It's crimped and riveted. With that I thought I'd drill out the rivets and tap for some pan head screws.



Years of weather took its toll.



It's cleaned and a very quickly made gasket ready for assembly with silicone grease.



Screwed and recrimped back together.



Once mounted, to adjust, set the transmission manual control to neutral, loosen the mounting bolts for the switch, insert a #43 drill bit or pin into the alignment hole all the way in. Wiggle the switch if you have to. Once the pin is set, tighten the switch mounting bolts and remove the pin. Test backup lamps and start function with a ohm-meter as you move the transmission through the gear ranges. This one works a treat now with no more intermittent flutters.



Install new O-rings and install in case.



While working on this I found the proper rear seal with the dust shroud. So I changed it. Seems to be a 1966 to 1967 thing. 1968 C6's do not have this style.



Here's the part number.



Install the vent tube, and all the other case hardware.



and were done.



I modeled up some plugs in CAD and printed them out on the 3D printer to keep dust, bugs and moisture out of the trans till it's ready to be installed.

Just a few notes on this. I had over 600 pictures so I had to whittle that down a bit, I hope I covered enough to help someone out. The other idea I wanted to mention is to keep a logbook of what you do to the parts of the car. Even though I put the tag back on the transmission it is certainly no longer a model PDD -B.

Now there's no doubt I'll have to do some adjustments on the proving/adjusting drives. Some possibilities are other vacuum modulators with different spring rates and pin lengths, and if slipping still occurs in second gear I'll try larger piston servos. Good thing is all of this can be changed while the transmission is in the car.

Hope you enjoyed.
 

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Great job and thanks for taking the time to write it all down for us. I'll be rebuilding my transmission and this is exactly what I need.
 

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"This is still the 1966 dual range valve body so requires the hard to find 1966 gasket."

Huh.. so i should top throwing all of mine away and mail them to you :p

That is nice you got that type of Servo. I prefer those that take rings over the whole rubber servo. Much easier to service and cheaper in the long run.

To anyone doing a build, the digital camera is your friend. Especially when dealing with the valve body. There are at least three different valve bodies I've seen, different valves and all. I know this because I tripped and knocked all of my valves/springs in a pile once, and spent a ton of time tearing apart spare valve bodies and scouring the internet for pictures to get it all back together :p (no?!? you would never).
 

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excellent write up Desert ...:tup::tup:
I have bookmark these threads for future refrence....Thanks....
 

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And again , VERY WELL Done .

That Gasket !! Yes they are hard to find . Where did you get it ? I recently did a C6 from a 66 Thunderbird , luckily I was able to reuse the original was ok .

One thing I will add how I assemble . When doing the High/reverse , Forward , planet and input shell. It is easier I believe to assemble them together on the bench, then drop the whole assy in together . It is heavy but I think easier to feel all the clutches aligned .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And again , VERY WELL Done .

That Gasket !! Yes they are hard to find . Where did you get it ? I recently did a C6 from a 66 Thunderbird , luckily I was able to reuse the original was ok .

One thing I will add how I assemble . When doing the High/reverse , Forward , planet and input shell. It is easier I believe to assemble them together on the bench, then drop the whole assy in together . It is heavy but I think easier to feel all the clutches aligned .

Hello,

Thank you for the kind words. Well I got kind of lucky on the gasket. I searched high and low for that gasket with no immediate luck in sight. I resorted to the fact that I'd have to have one made. So I painstakingly CAD'd the original and while trying to source the raw gasket material came across a shop liquidating old stock and there they were.... just a handful and so I snagged them all.

But as a note to anyone in need of a specialized gasket, there are places that have CNC paper cutting tables for prototypes. Call around, gasket companies etc. The table has a precision knife head on it and they'll load your material and your CAD file. The table will cut out a nice gasket, in fact it's so precise it looks like it was die cut. Just do a good job on the CAD file :)

On the assembly of the rotating guts, like I mentioned earlier, more than one way to skin a cat. You should always do what you feel comfortable with. For me, after doing several transmissions on the bench and loading parts in like that I thought I'd give this a go and make a fixture to spin the case round. All I can say is that I wish I had taken the time to make the fixture for all those other transmissions, this was soooooooooo much easier, why fight gravity, let it be your friend ;)

Cheers!
 

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Desert XL, I know, bringing up an old post. Frank did a good job on the Torrington bearing part numbers, but he didn't do thrust washer #5 and #10 like you did. Can you list the part number for the torringtons you used on 5 and 10. Also the approximate depth of the machining for each bearing. Once again great job on the article.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Desert XL, I know, bringing up an old post. Frank did a good job on the Torrington bearing part numbers, but he didn't do thrust washer #5 and #10 like you did. Can you list the part number for the torringtons you used on 5 and 10. Also the approximate depth of the machining for each bearing. Once again great job on the article.
Hello Colt Mac,

Thank you for the kind words on the article. Did you by chance mean bearing #9 and #10? The reason I ask is Frank does convert #5 to Torrington. The rear case thrust washers are the ones I converted whereas Frank did not. For #9 don't even bother trying to turn down the rear sprag race. You can buy a very reasonable Torrington and already machined down rear sprag inner race as a set. Here's the link: https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/c6-e4od-1989-on-model-years-low-sprag-race-bearing-kit/

I bought the bearing/race set for the second C6 (internally combusting one) I built up. https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/1966-galaxie-500xl-refurbishment.655094/#post-1629585163

It's a whole lot easier to just bolt in and go.

As for the rear Torrington (#10). This is weird one. I could not find it back then and just had a look and still it's not available through the common websites. On both C6's I built up I had to go to a local transmission shop in ABQ and order them. I think they were about 15 or so dollars apiece. As for the machining depth, I couldn't find any online reference to a depth or even bearing thickness so I measured it and the old flat thrust washer and machined the difference in the parking pawl sprocket. Unfortunately I didn't write that dimension down and it's been a few years and I don't remember. I'm sorry I couldn't help you any further out on that one.

On a side note, I noticed all the pictures in this article are blurred and hard to see because of Photobucket. There is another Ford galaxie website where this was uploaded and all the pictures are fully intact. Here's the link to this transmission build up with proper pictures for those who would rather read that. https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/1966-ltd-resto-mod-thread.14264/page-2#post-77070

Cheers
 

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Thanks for getting back to me and for the links. On the number 5, there are factory Torringtons but frank changes a thrust washer in there. I looked at mine and there is a little confusion, maybe on my part. When Frank laid out the #'s in his explanation it wasn't real clear to me because he said something like "just leave the rest alone there is very little benefit" or some words to that effect. When I saw your article about changing 10 because of decel wear, I thought that was a good idea and I want to do that. I bought the Superior Servo and the 'E' lever along with the spring Frank suggested. After the money and the time I thought I would do as much as I could to make my C6 as competitive as possible. Many thanks to you and guys like Frank and Greg.
 

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Ok , for the #5 I assume the large roller on the front side of the front planet???

If so I use a Sonnax GM-N-11. It is a GM T700 torque converter bearing. Ever so slightly different to the Ford one Frank specs but works nice .
I had to find that as not all the Ford bearing are available here

As for the #10 on the park gear . That is the common T350 bearing , Sonnax GM-N-14H

As for machining dimensions , the GM-N-14H is approx. 0.140". A std thrust approx .060" . Machining I vary some depending on what original endfloat was . If was loose originally I take a little less of the difference of .080" , usually in the vicintity of .070-.075" . This allows for a nice thin #1 shim to keep endfloat tight

The GM-N-11 is from memory around 0.154". I take a small cut from the front face of the planet and the rest from the forward ring gear hub. That one is different as you need the machining dimensions right due to the way the planet also runs on the small bearing in the forward drum

Hopefully that all makes sense . Sing out if not happy to assist
 

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Thanks Greg for the additional info and pics. DesertXL, I found the Inner race and Torrington @ Summit for $22 All the rest of the bearings I found on e-Bay, Including the one for the rear pawl. (Ford Motorcraft F81Z-7B368-AA Transmission Bearing, Park Gear 4R100 98-18) There is a guy on ebay I think is "Transmaxx" and he has all these bearings including the GM's Greg mentioned. Thanks to both of you. BTW, what do you have to do to remove the factory Torrington from inside the Forward Planet Assembly? The race's want to hang up on the small planetary gears.
 
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