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Discussion Starter #1
I am doing a resto of a 1966 country squire. Stroker FE. I have got buckets, console and steering column out of XL. I would like to put a top loader in it. This list is based on my conversion of a 1957 ranch wagon from auto to top loader (a long time ago) and a 66 f100 conversion (recent). Before I place add in classified I just wanted to make sure my list is complete. So any help with the list of pieces or sources of parts would be appreciated!

1. Clutch pedal (based on my 1957 it fits on existing brake hanger and replaces brake pivot pin??)
2. Clutch pedal bumper
3. Clutch pedal spring
4. Rod from pedal to z bar.
5. Z bar
6. Frame side Z bar pivot ( I have several block pivots)
7. Push rod from z bar to clutch fork.

I know I will have to change cross member and driveshaft. Also I will fab new top for console

I am also interested in comments about using a tremec 5 or 6 speed, but know nothing about conversion
 

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I’m building a 66 Country Squire with a 445 stroker and a TKO 5 speed. I used original clutch pedal, z bar, etc. from an original 4 speed car but my cross member from the automatic worked fine. I did have to do a little cutting on the floor because the trans is bigger but it wasn’t bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m building a 66 Country Squire with a 445 stroker and a TKO 5 speed. I used original clutch pedal, z bar, etc. from an original 4 speed car but my cross member from the automatic worked fine. I did have to do a little cutting on the floor because the trans is bigger but it wasn’t bad.
Did you have to change bell housing and original clutch? What model of TKO? I am very interested!
 

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Original 4 speed (car not the pickup one) bellhousing casting # C5AA-6394-A
10.5 inch Ram clutch (I think) and the early model TKO, pre TKO500 & TKO600
Where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Original 4 speed (car not the pickup one) bellhousing casting # C5AA-6394-A
10.5 inch Ram clutch (I think) and the early model TKO, pre TKO500 & TKO600
Where are you located?
Is Ram brand or from a dodge (shudder?) ram? Minnesota the great, not quite, frozen north. I have two core motors coming both with bellhousings, but I am betting they are both pick up bells. Maybe I could use a extra long pilot bearing or just find a correct bell.
 

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Ram is the brand of clutch. I think a longer input shaft on the transmission would make the pickup bellhousing work but I’m not sure. I did all that research a few years ago.
Me and my Country Squire are in Oklahoma but I grew up in the great white North Dakota.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That looks incredible! Perfect. Did you replace wood material or is that original? Paint? Bench seat? Do you mind if I ask for advice? I am liable to be a pest!,

I just purchased my Country Squire yesterday and am making plans and gathering parts. My number one requirement was a rust free frame, which it has. Interior and exterior are shot, no more than surface rust on top surfaces. Actually started on motor, before I had a car to put it in. Had 66 Ltd in high school in 76. I also have new to me finished 57 ranch wagon, 390 top loader. Just getting back into playing with cars after a 20 year absence. I lost cars when pole shed collapsed due to snow and took the fun out of it.

You used stock fork and throw out bearing?
 

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Thanks! Paint, body and interior are all original. Yes it’s a bench seat. Ask all the questions you want, I’d love to help! That picture was taken the day I bought it about 5 years ago and since then I’ve put at least $20,000 into it and it still looks the same. Everything you can’t see has been replaced and updated. The 352 is now a 390 stroked to 445 with a roller cam, headers, aluminum intake and more. TKO 5 speed transmission, narrowed rear end with 31 spline Moser axles 3.50 gears and Detroit Truetrac differential, front disc brake conversion, Hotchkis front suspension, and adjustable Spohn rear suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Hotchkiss front suspension is the one that says “corrects the geometry” and is built up a arms, that sounds good! I read they have good sway bars too!

I will try to stay in the spirit of the car but it is too far gone in the interior to keep stock. With the exception of carpet and the 2ea dash pieces no interior parts are reproduced, I think

I will start by pulling frame. Stripping and repainting frame (POR15 I think, it is a new product to me). Rebuild/ upgrade suspension. Bottom of body will be stripped, epoxy primed and rhino coated and painted. Did the same in 90s with my 63.

Have you had to pull any of your “light wood” rim trim? I heard you gently pry off stainless caps and there is nut under. Do you know if that is true?
 

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I’m not sure. I haven’t had to take any of that apart. I did replace the carpet and dash pads too. I think you can get seats and headliners but I’ve never seen any repop door panels or plastic interior pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you buy the two complete dash pieces for around $800 or just the glue on caps $200. My car set in Arizona sun for years and I will have to go with the complete pieces. It is funny but when I had my 66 Ltd in 1976 both pieces were already bad. Only 10 years old! The grill over the speaker cracked (I cut it out and replaced it I THINK with a 64 radio grill) and I kept switching the piece over the instrument cluster with the best piece I could find
 

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I plan on buying the new complete pieces but that and the windshield are about the only parts left to buy. Can you post a picture of your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I will post a picture as soon as I get it here. Just bought it yesterday. If you would like to see it, it is on page 5 of their inventory at the Country Classics, Remsen Iowa web site. Lots of pictures. Braved the snow in Iowa yesterday It is an Arizona car and despite its looks, I am pleased with it. We raised it up and I inspected the frame and sheet metal, and as I said no frame rust and just surface rust from the paint being gone. It has a small repaired dent low down on passenger rear door and drivers side rear door the handle is bent down. Front and rear bumpers are bent. Interior is shot. It is very similar in condition to my 63 when I got it.

I am interested in your opinion

I will have to say Country Classics is awe inspiring in the amount and variety of cars they have and the owners Stan and Jan were great. I managed to step thru the new snow and loose a shoe in a mud puddle. You wouldn’t think there would be water under snow but hey it’s spring!

I am humbled compared to yours, but I will make steady progress.

First project is putting a unisteer rack and pinion steering unit in 57 ranch wagon
 

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I’ll have to look them up. I got mine from an older guy in Missouri that buys and sell old Fords. I went to look at a 63 1/2 two door and fell in love with this wagon. I had to hound him for 6 months before he would sell it because he “needed time to enjoy it before it went to a new home.” I plan to drive it back to his place so he can drive it again when I have it all put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got pedals, bell housing, fork, z bar and z bar frame mount. Now if possible could you supply more info on your tremec: do they all fit standard ford bell housing or do you have to look for a specific part number. Any info would be great
 

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You are speedy! Getting all that stuff took me awhile. Mine is an early one and I had to send my input shaft in to get cut down to the right length for my bellhousing. The original speedo cable and automatic cross member fit and the drive shaft probably would length wise but the trans yoke and the rear end use bigger u-joints so I will be getting a new drive shaft made. Now they go by TKO 500 & TKO 600 which is just a gear ratio difference if I remember correctly. Try this link for better info. Automatic transmission to TREMEC TKO big block conversions - Modern Driveline
 

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The biggest commitment in going this route is cutting the floor but the way I did it turned out pretty slick. I just cut slits in the trans hump then used blocks and a floor jack to stretch it apart. I then shaped a piece of metal as a filler and pushed it up into place with the jack and blocks. I screwed it together and test fit the whole driveline. Once I knew it was gonna fit I glued it all together with panel bond adhesive and cut a hole for the shifter.
 

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