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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I recently got a 1966 F100 styleside...... Here's a little bit of the background it was a show truck and very little of the original components of it. The goal was to make it ford from bumper to bumper. A brief background on some of the components that may or may not change your answers.
  • 1 1/4 inch hellwig rear sway bar
  • 1969 Ford 427 engine
  • '65 vintage 427 cast iron headers
  • dual exhausts with turbo mufflers
  • crane cam
  • edelbrock valve covers
  • T-bird c6 transmission with shift kit to a 4.10 psi rear end
  • 66 mustang air conditioning
  • 64 power brakes from a ford passenger car
  • 1973 Ford pickup power Steering components
  • 1967 Ford T-bird tilt steering column
  • Lincoln six way power seat
plus many more other changes.. that being said.... the car has been sitting for a good long while in garage and has been covered. It was in working order however it has not been started in an estimated 10 years (he doesn't remember the last time he started it....) That being said, I am trying to get it running again, so far the engine seems to turnover but will not start. I recently had the carb professionally rebuilt it was a 4 barrel holley and an electric choke has been installed. All the fluids are good I have drained the gas tank etc and put fresh gas with fuel stabilizer. I still can't seem to get her to start. The most recent attempt I noticed both the positive and negative wires to the battery were getting extremely hot so I think there may be a short and these wires have seen better days.... So I am going to start by replacing them and rewiring the choke. From there I will pull the spark plugs and try to clean them and make sure I have spark, but outside of that any ideas you can think of? I'm having a difficult time working on this truck because there are no manuals for it because it is so far from stock. This is one of the 3 cars I'm trying to get running. Any help would be great.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let me preface this by saying I do not have a lot of experience with cars I evaluated the car today and made sure I was getting fuel to the carb. I then replaced the positive and negative wires to the battery Rey were very worn. I then checked for spark at the plug and there was no spark but the plugs were terrible so I replaced them... Still no spark. I went back to the distributor and still no spark there at the points I attempted to clean it but still no spark. They're opening and closing but not sparking... Any advice? Should I replace the points and see if they're the problem or should I go further back then that?
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Let me preface this by saying I do not have a lot of experience with cars I evaluated the car today and made sure I was getting fuel to the carb. I then replaced the positive and negative wires to the battery Rey were very worn. I then checked for spark at the plug and there was no spark but the plugs were terrible so I replaced them... Still no spark. I went back to the distributor and still no spark there at the points I attempted to clean it but still no spark. They're opening and closing but not sparking... Any advice? Should I replace the points and see if they're the problem or should I go further back then that?
Thanks!
Also on a side not are there any members in the Ventura county area?
 

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Run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. See if it will start or at least try. Do not leave this hooked up for long as it will cook the coil. You will need to pull the wire to kill the engine if it does start. If it starts we can start working from there.
 

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I would not bother trying to clean those old plugs. Get new ones.

Replace any old fuel filters. Put fresh oil and filter in it before you try to crank it up. Should replace the coolant too. All this stuff goes bad in 10 years of sitting.

Points are terminal and need replacing. I would convert to something without points as soon as possible. Look inside your spark plug wires on both ends for corrosion and also check the distributor cap and rotor.

427 huh. Wowzer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dual points Dist. Get new points. Clean all the connections Change both condensers and call me in the morning.
Thanks it is now starting when I pour fuel directly into the carb.... looks to be like the tank is not adequately cleaned. I'm going to pull it and clean it, but while we're on the topic has anyone used por15 or rustol? I ask because I would rather not boil the tank or get it cut open and bead blasted because I'd rather not have to repaint it. The tank and the bolts have been painted to perfect showroom quality and I'd rather not have to go through the hassel of pulling the seat and having to repaint things again.
Thanks,
 

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Why do you say the tank is plugged? Did you check out the hoses and the pump and in-tank sock filter and eliminate those?
 

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Thanks it is now starting when I pour fuel directly into the carb.... looks to be like the tank is not adequately cleaned. I'm going to pull it and clean it, but while we're on the topic has anyone used por15 or rustol? I ask because I would rather not boil the tank or get it cut open and bead blasted because I'd rather not have to repaint it. The tank and the bolts have been painted to perfect showroom quality and I'd rather not have to go through the hassel of pulling the seat and having to repaint things again.
Thanks,
NOBODY, I repeat NOBODY should EVER cut open a tank and bead blast it. That's nearly the stupidest thing I've ever heard of in my entire life!

Pull your tank. Clean it out with a gallon of M.E.K. (methel ethel keytone) then dry it thoroughly.

At that point you can use a Fuel tank liner system (it's simply pure Urethane that is not effected by ethanol nor other mixed or pure fuels), allow that substance to dry for 24 hours then reinstall the fuel tank.

Simple, but VERY OFTEN unnecessary.

If your 66 has been being driven normally over the last few years then the fuel tank is going to be just fine. Just MEK the varnish out of it, re-fill it and call it good, because it WILL be good, unless the truck was driven a million miles on dirt roads and parked under gramma's elm tree for 35 years....
 

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While I did not Start this forum, I appreciate all the good advice. Have a 66 F100, all original, 105,000 original miles. This drove fine, but was parked for a year, now I am not getting spark. Going to replace points, plugs, cap and rotor, and go from there
 
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