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Discussion Starter #21
Now that you mention it, I didn’t remember reading it in your previous thread or in the article I provided so I assumed a multi piston setup. but now that I look at pictures, both threads do show single piston calipers.
 

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Hi ,here's some pics of my car .The Magnum 500 15 in where on the car when I hauled it home.. and then purchase a four-wheel disc brake kit from Auto Crafters which turned out to be a disaster Granada front spindles 1 piston calipers the car wouldn't stop very well at all..The Magnum 500 would not go on over the calipers either.. Since I'm decided to do a frame off restore to the car completely I went to Wilwood site and looked up what I wanted for the fornt and rear..then bought them form Summit racing. I went with the 4- piston 12.88 front rotors and I believe it's a 12in rear.. since I had to buy larger rims because of the first system I put on it the first time I have a 18.8 235x50x18 and the rears are 235x55x18. I'm having trouble posting the pics of my car before I took it apart.
I believe Jay Leno is responsible for Wilwood disc brake kits that fit the 66 Galaxie and the Hotchkis suspension which they set up for a 16 in rim here's the link to YouTube
https://youtu.be/V-BL7G5m98M
Hope I have use punctuation and capitalization and then all can understand this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Ragtopxl, that’s a nifty looking brake kit and a sweet looking car. Thanks for sharing.

Your write up says you used the 4 piston kit but your pic of the frameoff restoration is the 6 piston kit. Can you confirm which one you used and give some info on how it performs?

I think both the 15s and 18s look really good on your car. How is the ride with the 18s — road noise, steering response, road feel, etc?

By the way, I have watched that jay leno video at least a dozen times over the last couple of years but I am about to watch it again. The Hotchkis production kit doesn’t quite match what they built custom for Leno but I am glad they released a kit to the public (I bought most of the kit and installed it last year). I forgot that he made the bracket on a cnc for the wilwood brakes. Thanks for reminding me!
 

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Isugmral24 sorry .It is the 12.88 rotor and 6 piston caliper on the front kit #140-13654.The back Is the 12.19 rotor 4 piston caliper kit # 140-9282.. Install was for the most part simple and easy I did purchase there brake lines for the front. The car still isn't on the road so I can't tell you as to the performance of them yet. Still doing body work had to put quarters on it which is a bit difficult because the quarters I put on it or 53 years old also LOL... and do another body and bumper mods..
As far as the handling the 15's on the magnum 500's handled like I remember it did when I was 16 ( a boat). I had to redo the brakes on it because the power drum brakes or going bad. And the front-end bushings were shot no I rebuilt the front end put on an inch and 1/8 sway bar and this breaks. Which it like I said after putting on the 11 inch rotors with the big single-piston caliper the Magnums with no longer fit,,so I new rims ! I liked the look of the magnums,but real like the ones I got... after putting on the big sway bar changing all the bushings up front it was a very very noticeable difference in the handling I still had a little body roll in the corners,but a rear sway bar I believe will help that.Also the rear trailing arms bushings were worn I put the spohn adjustable tubular trailing arms on.Oh really did notice any more road noise with the 18's and I have enough sidewall still with the tires so the feel of the road isn't a factor...I understand that the low profile tires I'll give you more of a feel for the little things that you might hit or run over in the road... tire noise I believe the mostly in the brand and type of tired you put on.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You make a good point about tire quality. The guy at my local shop suggested 225 Fuzion protouring tires for my wheels. I haven’t driven on the road yet but the tires look way too wide for the wheels and I notice a ton of sidewall flex even with 40 lbs of air pressure. If I stand on the front bumper and jump up and down, the suspension only flexes about a quarter to half inch while the tires flex so much they look like they’re about to bust. Almost like they can’t handle the weight of the car. I’ve never seen tires flex like this before.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
In the pics it looks like the top of the outer wheel wells are exactly even, but measuring inside the wells reveals a slight rake to the stance. There’s 9” above the rear tires and 7-1/2 inches above the front tires. I do wish the front end was slightly lower because looking at a front angle gives a slight gasser appearance

Yesterday I measured the tightest tolerances for the wheel diameter. In the back wheel well, There is 1-3/4” between the front of the tire and the outer wheel well. In the front wheel well, with the tire turned outward, there is 3-1/2” between the front of the tire and the outer wheel well. The tires are 25-2/3” so Based on these measurements I could go back up to 28” oem size tires. To get a more raked look, I may either cut another 1/4 coil in the front or put a 27” tire up front and a 28” tire in the back.

After doing some more reading, I’m leaning toward the 4piston wilwood kit that reuses the existing galaxie spindles. Seems like an easy retrofit. Thanks again for everyone’s input... it was very helpful.

I’m leaning toward the magnum 500s but still not sure about the 16x8 or 17x8 wheels. Seems like there’s more tire options for 16s than 15s and even more for 17” wheels these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
one of my initial questions was about performance difference between 15 vs 16 vs 17 inch wheels (something I haven't settled for myself) on the 65 to 68 galaxies, but I'm now doing quite a bit of reading on what width and diameter wheels/tires will fit. sounds like I can use up to the following sizes...
front: maximum 8" wheel, 4.5" backspace, 235mm tire. height ratio depends on what has been done to the suspension. looks like quite a few folks are using 25.5" to 26.5" dia tires regardless of wheel dia.
rear: maximum 10" wheel, 5.0 or 5.5" backspace, 275mm tire. 28" dia if stock suspension height.

I know other folks can use the search function the same as I can, but thought it might help to group some of these articles together as quick reference for other folks...
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/541002-1966-ford-galaxie-500xl-wheel-options.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/529345-galaxie-wheels-what-fits.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/463122-1966-galaxie-wheels-tires.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/587098-will-these-wheels-fit.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/534561-tire-wheel-fit-66-galaxie-2dr-hardtop.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ga...-know-what-wheels-i-can-get-away-7-litre.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/502142-whats-widest-tires-will-fit-65-galaxie.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/500786-my-1965-galaxie-500-fb-needs-wheels.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/500786-my-1965-galaxie-500-fb-needs-wheels-3.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/564066-17x7-5-wheels.html
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/503049-better-fit-disc-brake-conversion.html
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
thought it also may help to group pics of a few Gals with 15s, 16s, and 17s. Details are as per the postings in other threads...
  1. 1966 Galaxie 225-70r15x7 front, 275-60r15x8 rear, magnum 500s
  2. 1966 Galaxie 225-70r15x7 front and back, magnum 500s
  3. 1965 Galaxie 15x7 front, 15x8 back, fast fives (no tire size info provided)
  4. 1965 Galaxie 225-60r16x7 front and back, crown vic (this is the only pic of 16s on a Galaxie that I could find)
  5. 1965 Galaxie 225-50r17x8 front, 255-50r17x8 back, Cragars
  6. 1967 Galaxie 245-45r17 front, 275-40R17 rear, 2009 mustang bullitt (my guess is 8" wide wheels)
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
after reading and researching Magnum 500 wheels and tire sizes for two weeks, I'm pretty frustrated. Lack of tire choices ruled out the 15" wheels. Wheel diameters and brake parts are getting larger so that rules out the 16" wheels. tire choices for 17" wheels pretty much rules out using 245s and 255s for the rears in a 28” diameter with a smaller matching tire up front. So, I've narrowed it down to three choices. At this point it's mostly preference but I'm not sure which way to lean...

A. 225-60R17x7 front and 235-60R17x8 rear, Scott Drake
Pros: period correct black Ford Crown center cap, 60 series ratio front and back, should help with raked look by staggering diameters
Cons: losing 1/2" width on front tire (traction and filling wheel well) compared to a 235 on an 8” wheel, staggering widths supposedly causes more understeer

B. 235-55R17x8 front and 235-60R17x8 rear, American Racing
Pros: gain 1/2" width front tire, should help with raked look by staggering diameters 1”
Cons: lose 1/2" height cushion compared to 225-60R17 (does the 235-55 look right on an old car?), cheap AR plastic center cap

C. One size tire all around. Either 235-55R17x8 or 235-60R17x8, American Racing
PROS: not staggering diameters opens up more options for tires, should help with understeer by not staggering widths
Cons: lose the raked look so may need to cut another 1/4 front coil to compensate, cheap AR plastic center cap
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
just realized that US Wheel also makes a magnum 500 and states that the original OE cap will fit so it might take the Wheel Vintique center cap. Also read that the mounting bracket can be adjusted so the American racing wheel takes the reproduction caps. So I feel good about both options to get the look I want.

The US Wheels are not stepped like the American Racing and Scott Drake Magnum 500s. I'd like to poll the audience. which style would be more 1966 period "correct" and/or look better on the Galaxie -- stepped or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
went to the Slammed and Cammed car show in Baton Rouge this weekend and realized a few things.

There was a fullsized car with the 17" US Wheels magnum 500s at the show. The non-stepped wheels did not look "right" at all when compared to a few nearby mustangs with the 15" original style wheels. So, I scratched the US Wheels version off my list. The rest of you probably already knew this, but I realized that the original style is a stepped (added in edit), two piece, chromed wheel.

Now I'm conflicted about using the monocast American Racing VN501 or the CNC cut Scott Drake wheels. I didn't see any of these at the show, so I'm not sure of how they look in person compared to the 15" wheel vintiques. they are stepped to mimick the two piece wheels but they lack the seam and they are not polished to mimick the chrome look (added in edit). American Racing does offer the VN500 as a polished two piece 17" wheel which seems to better mimick the smaller original wheels, but it costs over $200 MORE per wheel. I'm not sure if the look of at seam is worth $800. wish I could see the scott drakes, AR VN500 and VN501 in person.

All of the magnum 500 wheels at the car show were 15" (except for the one referenced above). the really nice looking setups had 275 rears and 225/235 fronts. they all used either Cooper Cobra GTs or BFGoodrich Radial TAs (or a funky looking no-name bias ply type tire). I looked at TireRack and Discount Tire and those seem to be the only two tires supporting the 15" muscle car market. the tech on those tires is 30+ years old. bummer

The show had plenty of 15", 17", 18", and 20" plus wheels on old cars. I know its all in preference, but I realized that the overall look of the 15" wheels just seems to "fit" on the 60s cars (maybe the cut of the wheel wells, or maybe the suspension stance?). this was upsetting, because visually I like the 15s but the 17" wheels have way better tire availability, tire technology, and accommodate larger and lighter brake rotors which reduces brake temperatures and unsprung weight (added in edit).

For tire diameter, I was originally looking at 28s on the rear and 27s in the front. at the show, a few full size cars had this setup. the 28 diameter tires looked good in the back of every vehicle at the show as long as it was a wide tire, but the 27" tires in the front looked a little big. I looked online at Tire Rack and Discount Tire and going down to 26" tires for the front drastically increases the number of tires available. Seems like wheels are getting larger but overall tire diameters are getting smaller at the same time. this worries me because the smaller diameter tires have lower weight ratings (added in edit).

Seems like I always see lots of mustangs, novas, chevelles, mopars, cadillacs, etc, but there's a lack of full size Fords at car shows in my area. In the last 5 years, I've only seen two Galaxies at car shows. one was a super nice 63 with the 427 double quad motor, and one was a 1978 that looked ratty like my 66. I've only seen two other Galaxies driving around my area... one was a white 1965 and the other was a red 1966. for not being rare cars, I'm surprised to see so few of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I tend to read about things until analysis paralysis sets in and there seem to be no good options (laughing at myself right now). and in typical fashion I've continued reading and looking at brakes and tires which is probably not a good thing.

I found this article interesting. the article may just be advertising for StopTech and complete BS for all I know, but the information seems interesting.
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6565

To paraphrase the article, StopTech claims that having a brake system tuned to your vehicle is more important than installing the biggest parts out there. It sounds like this is more than simply adjusting the proportioning valve. They tested a couple of popular "upgraded" brake systems on an Audi and found them to take longer to stop the car than the original Audi factory equipment. Then StopTech showed how installing a balanced system can achieve shorter stopping distances for the Audi.

next they tested a series of brakes on a 350Z. this test backed the conventional wisdom that larger rotors equal better cooling. in stopping tests for individual 60, 80, and 100 feet distances, 13" rotors ran about 100° cooler than 12" rotors which ran about 150° cooler than 11" rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/11159/the-myth-of-the-big-brake-kit/
the writer states some things in general that I see in multiple places on the web...

  • larger rotors can hurt performance because it increases unsprung weight which results in a more sluggish response.
  • heavy cast iron calipers increase unsprung weight
  • larger rotors aren't usually needed for standard daily driving
  • OEM brakes are plenty good enough for the street
  • if the application is going down steep hills or taking the car to the racetrack, upgrade OEM brakes with better pads and/or run a tube from the front of the car to the brakes to cool them
  • larger diameter brake discs won't help to stop a vehicle any faster on the street
  • if your wheels show the brake calipers, usually people want a big brake kit for the looks

https://www.roadandtrack.com/motors...you-need-to-know-about-brakes-and-track-days/
this article echoes some of the previous items, but he says on heavier or more powerful cars, it may be worth it to upgrade to big brakes at the track

https://www.tbmbrakes.com/brake-piston-count-not-matter/
TBM states that 4piston calipers are all anyone needs
  • used by Nascar, Sports Car, and NHRA
  • can stop a 3500lb car from 200mph or make a monster truck stand on its nose
  • 6 piston calipers are elongated which adds stress points and increases flex in the caliper
  • smaller pistons on 6 piston calipers decreases clamping force


I'm probably doing too much reading on something that doesn't really matter. but what these folks don't say is if they had to replace an old drum brake system from the 60s with a disc brake system... what would they buy if they are already spending the money?
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
right now the US Wheels are out because I don't like the look. and the American Racing VN500 is out because they are just too expensive. I'm back to two wheel options and now three tire options...

1. stagger width of wheels and tires width and diameter
American Racing VN501 Magnum 500. 8" front and 9" rear
Nitto N555 G2 tires. 245/45r17 front with 275/50r17 rear​

2. square setup wheels with staggered tire width and diameter
Scott Drake Magnum 500. 8" front and rear
Nitto N555 G2 tires. 245/45r17 front with 255/50r17 rear​

3. square setup wheels and tires... with different tire diameters
Scott Drake Magnum 500. 8" front and rear
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires. 235/50r17 front with 235/55r17 rear​

I'm leaning toward the Scott Drakes because I don't know if the Wheel Vintique center caps can truly be modified to fit the American Racing Wheels... and I really want the look of a 65-67 Fairlane/Falcon center cap. If I go that route, it means I can't run 275s on the rear, but how big is the difference between 255s and 275s? the car will have around 350hp and 400ft/lbs. is the traction gained by going to 255s or 275s in the rear worth the understeer compared with using 235s front and back?

at this point i will quit typing and see if anyone wants to chime in on any of the last few posts. if not, I will wait and post back on what I purchase and install. I'm learning there is not correct answer on these things.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
hey extech,

no drag racing. no autocross... though it would be fun :smile2: will try to keep her out of the rain. most of my driving will be warm weather. i do have two really curvy roads that I like to play on sometimes (not sure if that necessitates the wide tires and big brakes). otherwise it will be mostly driving through town and to local car shows. we plan to make a trek once per year to Cruising the Coast which is maybe a 3 hour drive on I-10.

and you're right, the last time I took a ride in the gal (something like 20+ years ago now)... I remember it riding like a yacht. was hoping the new suspension could tame some of that, but until the engine and transmission are rebuilt, I can't test it with the drums and the old 15" wheel setup.
 

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i drive my 63 in regular freeway traffic all the time. handeling will never be good with something this heavy, but a little better braking is a plus. just going to radial tires made the most difference. i don't think low profile tires will do anything other
than ruin the ride quality
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Well I know you have a ton of experience especially with these cars so I definitely value your opinion.

At what point would you consider the tires to be low profile? Would it be 50 series and lower? Or 45 and lower? I think this concept would rule out the wide Nitto tires and 9” American racing wheels.

What type of tire would you recommend? touring all season? Summer performance? Etc

I want to stagger tire heights so I’ve been looking them up in pairs on tire rack. most of the options in 235/55 front and 235/60 rear are for touring while most of the tire combinations for 235/50 front and 235/55 rear are performance tires. anything lower may be too rough while anything taller may be too bouncy and have sidewall flex?
 
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