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DesertXL, thank you for the offer. Like you, I have a boat load of extra's as well. The smaller ones are too thin and too small in diameter and the larger ones are not even close. There are only two out of the whole bunch that are close as they are the right diameter but wrong thickness and the ID is too big. I thought I could make them work by grinding them down and putting some sort of insert (hose?) in like you did. Trouble is I can't find a hose that will accomplish that. The Ford part number on the cushion I need is C5AA-3098-B or C5AA-8098-B, can't quite make it out. I believe both the convertible and hardtops use the same cushion.

I've tried a search for both numbers to no avail.

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Discussion Starter #182
DesertXL, thank you for the offer. Like you, I have a boat load of extra's as well. The smaller ones are too thin and too small in diameter and the larger ones are not even close. There are only two out of the whole bunch that are close as they are the right diameter but wrong thickness and the ID is too big. I thought I could make them work by grinding them down and putting some sort of insert (hose?) in like you did. Trouble is I can't find a hose that will accomplish that. The Ford part number on the cushion I need is C5AA-3098-B or C5AA-8098-B, can't quite make it out. I believe both the convertible and hardtops use the same cushion.

I've tried a search for both numbers to no avail.

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Hello 289Galaxie,

Agh I better see the size relationship now. That's odd that the kit didn't provide them. Then again the kit is missing two snap in mounts for the '68 and Metro sent them to me. For the inner piece I recently found that barrier air con refrigerant hose works really well. It's thick walled and dense. To shape the rubber mounts I found the bench grinder works really well, just have to be careful on how you hold it or it will launch. To reduce the large flat side of the mount I held it up to the side of the 10" grinder wheel and it adjusted how I held it to make a parallel grind on the rubber. I've used sand paper and whilst it works, it's very tedious.

Just thoughts.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Hello rickyracer1983,

Very nice gauges. I have a few questions if you don't mind. When the speedometer was converted to 140 did he strip the face plate, paint the flat black and then pad print new numbers on? I am curious as to this because one of my '65-'66 AM/FM radios needs the frequency numbers on the face plate reprinted as the white paint is deteriorated. I'm looking for ways to do this at home or if I have to send it out. I'm more of the hands on type so I'd like to do it myself with a known good technique.

As for the tach conversion, did he supply a schematic diagram of the changes he made. I am curious as to how it would fry exactly.

One last annoying question ;) How are you measuring the differential oil temperature? Is the temperature probe physically immersed in the oil? Also what type of probe are you using, a thermistor or thermocouple probe?

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The face plate he had extras from many other junk gages he uses. He's kept and obtained many old Ford gage faces. He did repaint the needles in the color I wanted. He suppiled a spec sheet for the gages I had him test. Tach conversation, he did send instructions on how to install everything with wiring diagrams.
Electric thermo probes. Mechanical was to hard to figure out a routing, especially the diff..
I had Currie Ent. weld a bung in when they built the diff. A shop here in Fallon does all types of welding so I had them do the Alum Trans pan, and oilpan bungs for me. All are low enough to be submerged in fluid. Diff is on lower rear side and not low enough to be exposed to road hazards.
Give him a call, he's very helpful. 864-895-4404
 

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