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DesertXL, thank you for the offer. Like you, I have a boat load of extra's as well. The smaller ones are too thin and too small in diameter and the larger ones are not even close. There are only two out of the whole bunch that are close as they are the right diameter but wrong thickness and the ID is too big. I thought I could make them work by grinding them down and putting some sort of insert (hose?) in like you did. Trouble is I can't find a hose that will accomplish that. The Ford part number on the cushion I need is C5AA-3098-B or C5AA-8098-B, can't quite make it out. I believe both the convertible and hardtops use the same cushion.

I've tried a search for both numbers to no avail.

IMG_1475.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #182
DesertXL, thank you for the offer. Like you, I have a boat load of extra's as well. The smaller ones are too thin and too small in diameter and the larger ones are not even close. There are only two out of the whole bunch that are close as they are the right diameter but wrong thickness and the ID is too big. I thought I could make them work by grinding them down and putting some sort of insert (hose?) in like you did. Trouble is I can't find a hose that will accomplish that. The Ford part number on the cushion I need is C5AA-3098-B or C5AA-8098-B, can't quite make it out. I believe both the convertible and hardtops use the same cushion.

I've tried a search for both numbers to no avail.

View attachment 166225
Hello 289Galaxie,

Agh I better see the size relationship now. That's odd that the kit didn't provide them. Then again the kit is missing two snap in mounts for the '68 and Metro sent them to me. For the inner piece I recently found that barrier air con refrigerant hose works really well. It's thick walled and dense. To shape the rubber mounts I found the bench grinder works really well, just have to be careful on how you hold it or it will launch. To reduce the large flat side of the mount I held it up to the side of the 10" grinder wheel and it adjusted how I held it to make a parallel grind on the rubber. I've used sand paper and whilst it works, it's very tedious.

Just thoughts.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Hello rickyracer1983,

Very nice gauges. I have a few questions if you don't mind. When the speedometer was converted to 140 did he strip the face plate, paint the flat black and then pad print new numbers on? I am curious as to this because one of my '65-'66 AM/FM radios needs the frequency numbers on the face plate reprinted as the white paint is deteriorated. I'm looking for ways to do this at home or if I have to send it out. I'm more of the hands on type so I'd like to do it myself with a known good technique.

As for the tach conversion, did he supply a schematic diagram of the changes he made. I am curious as to how it would fry exactly.

One last annoying question ;) How are you measuring the differential oil temperature? Is the temperature probe physically immersed in the oil? Also what type of probe are you using, a thermistor or thermocouple probe?

Cheers
 

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The face plate he had extras from many other junk gages he uses. He's kept and obtained many old Ford gage faces. He did repaint the needles in the color I wanted. He suppiled a spec sheet for the gages I had him test. Tach conversation, he did send instructions on how to install everything with wiring diagrams.
Electric thermo probes. Mechanical was to hard to figure out a routing, especially the diff..
I had Currie Ent. weld a bung in when they built the diff. A shop here in Fallon does all types of welding so I had them do the Alum Trans pan, and oilpan bungs for me. All are low enough to be submerged in fluid. Diff is on lower rear side and not low enough to be exposed to road hazards.
Give him a call, he's very helpful. 864-895-4404
 

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DesertXL, a question if I may... and apologies if this has already been covered....

What are you doing for wiring on this car?
I am at the planning stages for wiring on my 66 XL and having trouble finding what I want for a wiring kit.

What I DON'T want is GM color coded wire!
...but there are not many options for harness kits with Ford wiring colors.

I could maybe live with a GM fuse block... but that kind of irritates me as well....

Thanks for any help. :)


PS, I loved your post on the clock refurbishment! (y)

I did mostly the same (just not as much detail) years ago on my 68 Mustang clock.

It all paid off when I had a passenger comment that he had NEVER seen a clock work in an old car.
Very kind of him to notice and comment. :cool:

.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
DesertXL, a question if I may... and apologies if this has already been covered....

What are you doing for wiring on this car?
I am at the planning stages for wiring on my 66 XL and having trouble finding what I want for a wiring kit.

What I DON'T want is GM color coded wire!
...but there are not many options for harness kits with Ford wiring colors.

I could maybe live with a GM fuse block... but that kind of irritates me as well....

Thanks for any help. :)


PS, I loved your post on the clock refurbishment! (y)

I did mostly the same (just not as much detail) years ago on my 68 Mustang clock.

It all paid off when I had a passenger comment that he had NEVER seen a clock work in an old car.
Very kind of him to notice and comment. :cool:

.
Hello galaxiex,

No worries on redundant questions, my posts are long and it's often easier to ask the question then search countless lines of text.

For wiring on both '66's I am using GXL wiring of different gauges and colours. Since the cars are both getting a complete slew of accessories and other security features such as radio location, virtually none of the factory wiring really applies anymore.

So what I've done on the LTD so far is to use an engine bay fuse/relay box from an early Panther (early to mid 90's) as that has a nice selection of MAX and ATO fuses as well as 4 relays. Of which I use them for 1.) High Beam, 2.) Low Beam, 3.) Fuel pump, and 4.) Master ECU power.

To pass between the firewall I am using Deutsch connectors and also everywhere else I can in the car.
Here's a quick link to the starting of the wiring on the '66 LTD. wiring For the interior fuses I ordered 2 additional generic fuse boxes (ATO fuses) that will installed under the dash for the interior systems.

As for the wire I just order it in either assorted lengths and colours or if I need more I order rolls.

If you're doing a factory wiring schema I've seen factory replica wiring harnesses available, but I'm not sure if they offer every single piece as well as for the different accessories.

Did that help any?

Cheers
 

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DesertXL, Thanks very much!
That does indeed help.

So now my (tentative) plan is to go all custom wiring.

I was originally thinking to buy the Painless 10123 "customizable" 21 circuit Ford color harness and chop off the silly mini fuse panel it comes with.
Add an aftermarket fuse panel of some sort, and also re-use portions of the original harness and connectors and.... carry on from there.

I am adding power windows, locks, high amp alternator, and AC to this car so I would need extra circuits that the Painless harness lacks.
Also EFI is still an option that I haven't yet ruled out.

Please, where are you sourcing the GXL wire and Deutsch connectors, and what are you using for a bulkhead connector?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Hello galaxiex,

As for sourcing the Deutsch connectors, I used a myriad of places as weirdly the prices for the same components were drastically different. Here's a list of where I bought from:

1.) Prowireusa.com
2.) Buydeutschconnectors.com
3.) Mouser.com

As for the GXL wire, I used to buy from IWEC, but they no longer sell to Joe Public, now you need to be a business so I'm relegated to buying what I need from Fleece-Bay and Amazon. Now there is also SXL and TXL wire. GXL has the thickest insulation and TXL the thinnest insulation, so depending on density of wires you may need to use one of the latter choices. But I will not use that modern soy based wiring that cars of today are using as it just attracts rodents and Ford and Toyota already have class action lawsuits against them. I'll take oil based insulation please :)

Attached are two files for Deutsch connectors. The first is a light overview of the DT family of Deutsch and the last file is a catalogue of them all with complete part numbers. I won't sugar coat this, wiring and connectors are very expensive. Plan on around 1.5-2 grand worth of wiring and connectors to do a complete car. But it will last the test of time and you won't have to worry about wiring faults leaving you stranded and or setting your car ablaze when done properly.

A note on those DIY wiring kits. Unless your car is ultra simple or you buy a kit specifically for you car, it's a mess to use one as you'll be making modifications anyway and adding stuff for sure. Here's an example, my friend built a really cool Mad Max type T-Bucket and I offered to do the wiring and he bought a Painless Kit. I wasn't impressed, ended up adding and heavily modified the Painless thing anyway. I really do not like mini fuses because it's nearly impossible to add a circuit breaker to them. If you want to do a proper job, you'll use automatically resetting circuit breakers for all safety items, like horns and headlamps. So I ended up using additional inline ATO fuse holders with circuit breakers.

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Even this is a simple car wiring wise and the Painless kit was more of a pain to use.

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You can see the Painless mini fuse kit thing. My friend ended up buying assorted rolls of GXL wire and I tossed the Painless instructions in the bin where they belong. The other problem is length, they only give you so much length and chances are you'll be splicing longer pieces in anyway. The moral here is don't waste your money on generic kits, buy generic fuse/relay boxes that fit your needs and wire it yourself.

One more note on the Painless kit, the instructions assume you are too stupid to understand everything and treat you like you're putting IKEA furniture together. Painless does not give you how their fuse and relays are wired internally. I didn't care for that at all and another reason why the instructions were tossed. I made some measurements on their fuse/relay box, then went to town on my own plan. Everything turned out nice on this wiring job.

As for the '66 Fords, here's some pictures, I apologize if these are repeats on the post and you've already seen them. But it's a quick summary of what I've done on the LTD so far and will be doing on this gal 500 XL.

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Here's the Ford Panther fuse/relay box and trying to figure out a logical placement on the apron.

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Nothing clashes.

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Here's the bulkhead connectors I used. The large singular round one is the main feed for the cabin and that's rated at 100 amps continuous.

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Installed where the old Ford connectors were located.

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Laying out the the main front harness.

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Repopulated the Panther fuse/relay box for this car now.

Continued in next post due to number of pictures posting limitations.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Reply Continued

166258


Populated firewall connectors.

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This is where the main ECU will live, I still need to make an engine wiring harness.

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Another reason to do your own wiring harness is all the accessories you may add. All this wiring is just for the rear door!

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I added factory power window regulators and motors, however I couldn't find reproduction Ford power window switches so I used early to mid 70's GM ones, then I back lit them. It also has power door locks, and door lock and ajar sensors in the latch in a similar fashion to the Ford ones if you ordered the car with the convenience package. That's why all the wires.

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Door lock switches.

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Back lit GM power window switches. They have a nice greenish glow that matches the interior. I also upgraded the crappy cheap plastic Ford full size original door courtesy lamps to the all metal ones made by Scott Drake. Much nicer....

I hope this helps a little more. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #190
DesertXL, Thanks very much!
That does indeed help.

So now my (tentative) plan is to go all custom wiring.

I was originally thinking to buy the Painless 10123 "customizable" 21 circuit Ford color harness and chop off the silly mini fuse panel it comes with.
Add an aftermarket fuse panel of some sort, and also re-use portions of the original harness and connectors and.... carry on from there.

I am adding power windows, locks, high amp alternator, and AC to this car so I would need extra circuits that the Painless harness lacks.
Also EFI is still an option that I haven't yet ruled out.

Please, where are you sourcing the GXL wire and Deutsch connectors, and what are you using for a bulkhead connector?

Thanks again!
Hello again, I wanted to ask, are you adding factory power windows to the car? The reason why I ask is I'm having no joy locating the door power window regulators for the 2 door. It's been 2 years since I've been searching. I found the rear quarter ones, but it looks like I may have to modify the original manual winders to accept the electric motor.

Cheers
 

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Hello again, I wanted to ask, are you adding factory power windows to the car? The reason why I ask is I'm having no joy locating the door power window regulators for the 2 door. It's been 2 years since I've been searching. I found the rear quarter ones, but it looks like I may have to modify the original manual winders to accept the electric motor.

Cheers
I would very much like to see the modification of manual window regulators to power. I've always wondered if that was possible. I'm sure it is possible, but what extent of modification would it take? Not that I hope you can't find what you're looking for, but just in case, know that I'm cheering you on in window regulator modification option.:giggle:
 

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DesertXL, WOW thanks so much for the extensive and detailed reply. (y) :)
You have really gone above and beyond with help for me and fellow Galaxie fans!
Much to think about and research for wiring on my 66 XL.

Edit; Me thinks I have to visit my local Pick n Pull this weekend for a Panther fuse box...

I wanted to ask, are you adding factory power windows to the car? The reason why I ask is I'm having no joy locating the door power window regulators for the 2 door. It's been 2 years since I've been searching. I found the rear quarter ones, but it looks like I may have to modify the original manual winders to accept the electric motor.
Yes I have all 4 factory power window regulators for a 66 XL.
I got lucky years ago and found them in a pick n pull wrecking yard, and I knew what they were worth, so I grabbed them.
The car was completely gutted of all interior EXCEPT for the window regulators.
The tags on the firewall told me it was an XL with buckets and console and power windows. I grabbed the tags too. :)
I would liked to have got the harness, console switches and rear switches also, but alas they were gone.

Are you aware that Nu-Relics has modern NEW power regulators with motors for all 4 windows for 2dr hardtop Galaxie's?
They have an assortment of switches too.

1965-1967 Ford Galaxie power window kits.

Kinda pricey but maybe an option?
 

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I would very much like to see the modification of manual window regulators to power. I've always wondered if that was possible. I'm sure it is possible, but what extent of modification would it take? Not that I hope you can't find what you're looking for, but just in case, know that I'm cheering you on in window regulator modification option.:giggle:
It IS possible.... at least... I did this on a 68 Impala 4 dr sedan beater that I used to have.

My local Princess Auto store (sorta like Harbor Freight) carries surplus "stuff" and they had a whole slew of power window motors from... I don't know what...
... but they are an OEM design for :"something". I bought a bunch when they had a sale on them.

I took 2 of them and managed to mangle/mount them to the Impala front door manual window regulators.
Now, I have to say...they worked surprisingly well, even tho I was not too concerned about fit and finish.
I just kinda hacked up some brackets, drilled some holes and took apart the manual regulator and welded the gear to the motor.
Somehow stuffed it all back together and... It worked!
No-one was more surprised than me!
It all fit inside the door and you couldn't tell except for the missing window cranks.
Oh, and the switch panel I made for the center of the dash to operate the windows.


Understand, this car was a BEATER. It was severely rusted (rear window leaked BAD) but it only had 58K original miles on it, when I got it.
The original 307 2bbl and Powerglide ran like a champ!
The PG even still had the original factory fill in it (Whale oil based ATF)!!!!
I drove the car for 3 full years until it finally succumbed to the rust devil.

Here's a pic of the Impala next to an old school bus (long story)...

166268
 

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Oh, and BTW I also have power regulators for the vent wings that I grabbed from a 60's Mercury of some sort.
I don't remember now what year or model Merc, (may have been an old Lincoln, old guy memory strikes again!),
just that my thought was to somehow modify them to fit the Galaxie. (Future project)

Those lighted window switches are very cool! :cool:
I have used Osh Park for small pcb projects for guitar amps and effects.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
I would very much like to see the modification of manual window regulators to power. I've always wondered if that was possible. I'm sure it is possible, but what extent of modification would it take? Not that I hope you can't find what you're looking for, but just in case, know that I'm cheering you on in window regulator modification option.:giggle:
Hello 70XL,

You just may get your wish on the modification of the door window regulator from manual winder to electric. I did some preliminary research and it seems it just may be possible to remove the winder portion of the regulator and weld in the motor mounting pad portion off of a regulator that uses the same motor. I don't think I have to move the regulator to the second set of mounting holes as you do with the rear quarter window ones. The rear quarter power window regulators are radically different from the manual winders and that would be a bugger to do.

Since Ford used the same power window motor for over a decade I found a cheap (read 12 bucks shipped) brand new power regulator for a truck and will slice off the section of the electric motor mount and transplant (TIG) that onto the manual winder regulator. So I bought two of the cheap truck power regulators in pretty much the same way galaxiex converted his '68 Impala to power windows.

The reason why the rear quarter windows are so different is the electric motor would otherwise be in the way of window travel. Where as with the front doors it looks like the electric motor will be off in front (under the wing window) and out of the way. If I have two modify the 4 mounting holes for the regulator to use the other set of door holes so be it, but I'm keep my fingers crossed in the meantime.

I've just about given up on finding a set of front door power regulators as I do believe the ones that are left have been pretty much plucked out by others looking to do the conversion. Not less forgetting the ones I do see now (that don't fit this car) are astronomical in price for some old turd. I know because I bought the rears for basically a kings ransom and they look like they were drudged out of a swamp.

It's funny how unpopular 4 door cars are as I paid 30 bucks each (shipped) for the power regulators for the '66 LTD 4 door hardtop.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #196
DesertXL, WOW thanks so much for the extensive and detailed reply. (y) :)
You have really gone above and beyond with help for me and fellow Galaxie fans!
Much to think about and research for wiring on my 66 XL.

Edit; Me thinks I have to visit my local Pick n Pull this weekend for a Panther fuse box...



Yes I have all 4 factory power window regulators for a 66 XL.
I got lucky years ago and found them in a pick n pull wrecking yard, and I knew what they were worth, so I grabbed them.
The car was completely gutted of all interior EXCEPT for the window regulators.
The tags on the firewall told me it was an XL with buckets and console and power windows. I grabbed the tags too. :)
I would liked to have got the harness, console switches and rear switches also, but alas they were gone.

Are you aware that Nu-Relics has modern NEW power regulators with motors for all 4 windows for 2dr hardtop Galaxie's?
They have an assortment of switches too.

1965-1967 Ford Galaxie power window kits.

Kinda pricey but maybe an option?
Hello galaxiex,

You're welcome, happy to help. You were lucky indeed to have come across those power window regulators when you did and procure them when you did. Thank you for the link for the Nu-Relics. I have seen those before but to be honest I am not keen on using modern cheap disposable motors. Now if they completely duplicated the original power window regulators I would buy the front door ones from them. The OEM Ford style power window motor you can still buy brand new for around 35 dollars a piece, and that is a real bargain as it is easily serviceable.

That's funny about you also using Osh Park. If I may ask, what sort of things do you design and build for guitar amps? Do you primarily deal with tube/valve amps or solid state?

It IS possible.... at least... I did this on a 68 Impala 4 dr sedan beater that I used to have.

My local Princess Auto store (sorta like Harbor Freight) carries surplus "stuff" and they had a whole slew of power window motors from... I don't know what...
... but they are an OEM design for :"something". I bought a bunch when they had a sale on them.

I took 2 of them and managed to mangle/mount them to the Impala front door manual window regulators.
Now, I have to say...they worked surprisingly well, even tho I was not too concerned about fit and finish.
I just kinda hacked up some brackets, drilled some holes and took apart the manual regulator and welded the gear to the motor.
Somehow stuffed it all back together and... It worked!
No-one was more surprised than me!
It all fit inside the door and you couldn't tell except for the missing window cranks.
Oh, and the switch panel I made for the center of the dash to operate the windows.


Understand, this car was a BEATER. It was severely rusted (rear window leaked BAD) but it only had 58K original miles on it, when I got it.
The original 307 2bbl and Powerglide ran like a champ!
The PG even still had the original factory fill in it (Whale oil based ATF)!!!!
I drove the car for 3 full years until it finally succumbed to the rust devil.

Here's a pic of the Impala next to an old school bus (long story)...

View attachment 166268
That's funny, the '68 doesn't look bad from the picture but I know what you mean. When I was looking for power windows in my '73 Caprice Classic convertible it was cheaper for me to buy a parts car just for the power windows than buy them from CTC Auto Ranch. I ended up buying another '73 Caprice Classic convertible that was rotted beyond belief and still ran and drove just for the power window regulators. The car was a 500 dollar pile and that was at a local used car lot. It was borderline terrifying to drive as the frame was so badly rotted you could feel the rear axle walking around in the back. The rear bumper was bolted into the boot to hold it up. The floors had huge holes in there where you could see how bad the frame was whilst you were driving. I remember I had to drive it to a friends farm to strip it down and that 30 miles felt more like 3000.

With that out of way, I have to ask, what's with the bus? Was is to be a variation of the Partridge Family bus :giggle:

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #197
DesertXL, WOW thanks so much for the extensive and detailed reply. (y) :)
You have really gone above and beyond with help for me and fellow Galaxie fans!
Much to think about and research for wiring on my 66 XL.

Edit; Me thinks I have to visit my local Pick n Pull this weekend for a Panther fuse box...



Yes I have all 4 factory power window regulators for a 66 XL.
I got lucky years ago and found them in a pick n pull wrecking yard, and I knew what they were worth, so I grabbed them.
The car was completely gutted of all interior EXCEPT for the window regulators.
The tags on the firewall told me it was an XL with buckets and console and power windows. I grabbed the tags too. :)
I would liked to have got the harness, console switches and rear switches also, but alas they were gone.

Are you aware that Nu-Relics has modern NEW power regulators with motors for all 4 windows for 2dr hardtop Galaxie's?
They have an assortment of switches too.

1965-1967 Ford Galaxie power window kits.

Kinda pricey but maybe an option?
Oh shoot I almost forgot, if you do decide on an early to mid 90's Panther engine bay fuse/relay box, get 2. You'll need the extra terminals from the second one to complete the first one. The fuse boxes may not be fully populated depending on what model you get it from. For example the Ford Crown Vics are usually equipped with the bare basics whilst the Grand Marquis and Town Cars are usually loaded with accessories and have more fuses/terminals installed for you to use. But to be safe, I'd get 2, especially if you accidentally break the plastic pieces inside. A word of warning, the fuse box itself has a high glass content mixed with the plastic, if you release the terminals apply just enough pressure to get the terminal out otherwise it will break.

Just thoughts.

Cheers
 

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Oh shoot I almost forgot, if you do decide on an early to mid 90's Panther engine bay fuse/relay box, get 2. You'll need the extra terminals from the second one to complete the first one. The fuse boxes may not be fully populated depending on what model you get it from. For example the Ford Crown Vics are usually equipped with the bare basics whilst the Grand Marquis and Town Cars are usually loaded with accessories and have more fuses/terminals installed for you to use. But to be safe, I'd get 2, especially if you accidentally break the plastic pieces inside. A word of warning, the fuse box itself has a high glass content mixed with the plastic, if you release the terminals apply just enough pressure to get the terminal out otherwise it will break.

Just thoughts.

Cheers
Thanks again for the advice.
Much appreciated. :)
I will def look for 2 Panther bodies while I am there,
and I'll keep an eye out for other possible candidates.

One thing I never liked (working as a auto mechanic/tech) is Ford's lack of fuse labeling in the fuse box itself.
They force you to look in the owners manual or use a tech service to find the function of the fuses if the owner "thoughtfully" tossed the manual.... :rolleyes:

In this case it's kind of a blessing cuz that lets us map the fuse box however we want. ;)
 

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Hello galaxiex,.............
.................That's funny, the '68 doesn't look bad from the picture but I know what you mean..............

With that out of way, I have to ask, what's with the bus? Was is to be a variation of the Partridge Family bus :giggle:

Cheers
Ya, the Impala doesn't look bad there, but trust me it was quite far gone.
My effort to make it "somewhat safe" and drive-able was to procure some heavy wall rectangular tubing and a sledge hammer...
... and.... well.... "reinforce" the frame.
MIg welding on the chassis outside, lying on my back was not much fun,
but it worked for the 3 years I drove it...

The bus... yes quite a story... I'm afraid we are going quite off-topic here... but... well... you asked...;)

You see, I grew up in Whitehorse Yukon Territory and left there in 1977 to come to Edmonton where I still reside.
My older brother stayed in Whitehorse all this time.
I call him "the last hippy" in a joking affectionate way...
He lives in the Log Cabin Skyscraper top "floor" in Whitehorse. (google search, it's very cool)

Anyways... he wanted an old school bus to convert to a motorhome/camper to live in.
He's a photographer and has been the photo editor for the Whitehorse Star newspaper since... forever.
He likes to travel and take photos from... everywhere he goes. Thus the bus.
He couldn't find the one he wanted local to him, so he went online and found that one for sale, close to me.
Long story short.. he sent me the money for the bus and I made sure it was roadworthy and then drove it up the Alaska Highway to Whitehorse for him.
He paid for the fuel and my plane ticket home.
This all happened in 2005.
Driving an old school bus up the Alaska Highway was quite the adventure. I had fun doing it. :cool:

166283


166284


166285


166286

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166288



166289


I have TONS more pictures from the trip, but I think we have gone far enough off-topic for now...;)

Cheers!
 

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Hello galaxiex,............
.............. That's funny about you also using Osh Park. If I may ask, what sort of things do you design and build for guitar amps? Do you primarily deal with tube/valve amps or solid state?
...............
Cheers
I actually work on both Solid State and Tube amps.
Been tinkering with electronics since I was 10 years old.
No formal education or training in electronics, just learn by reading and studying electronics books and manuals.
And also by doing of course.

I've built reverb and tremolo effects for amps that didn't have the effects built-in.
Had custom circuit boards made with Osh Park.
Modify guitar amp circuits to better suit my preferences, build and modify guitar effects pedals, etc...
Tinker and build one-off electronics gadgets not guitar related.

Oh yes, I do play guitar.
I'm rhythm guitar in our VERY amateur band, Los Vamanos.
Just a bunch of old fogeys wanting to have some fun and make some noise.
We are 7 members.
Lead guitar, 2 vocals, 1 male, 1 female (she's REALLY good, awesome voice), Bass guitar, Drums, Keyboards, and me rhythm guitar.
We do it for fun, for ourselves and play the occasional charity gig for free.
With this stupid virus thing we have not got together since March.
Really missing it.
Wanna go make some noise! :)

Cheers!

Sorry... Last one, I promise!
No more cluttering your thread with off-topic posts.
 
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