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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for posting this as well as describing in detail how you are tackling this project. Kudo's!

I have a question and I'm not sure whether or not I missed the explanation. You stated that you used the Eastwood inner frame paint (which is what I was planning on using) and POR15. How did you get the inside of the frame clean enough for the paint to adhere? I tried blasting mine with a pressure washer but can only get in so far, especially in the rear frame arches and torque boxes. After I used the pressure washer I tried blowing the frame out with compressed air to both dry and remove anything else that may be left. When I looked inside the frame with my borescope, there was still a lot of oil/grease/crud in the left frame rail behind the front torque box. I was thinking maybe letting Engine Gunk soak for a while and trying the pressure washer again. Your thoughts?

Thanks.
Hello 289Galaxie,

As for cleaning the inside of the frame, it's a bugger if you have grease and other foreign bodies in there. There just is no easy way to get in there and clean quickly. All I can recommend is what you're planning and that this Gunk soak, brushes on flexible metal stems and to help speed things up spraying with acetone or lacquer thinner but that can get expensive depending how much you need.

For the home DIYer these are the parts of the process that's just bloody awful, but necessary.

Good luck and please feel free to us posted on your results!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #22
XL,

Thanks so much for posting this write up. I love it. I don't have any time to tinker right now, so it's great to see the details of what other people are doing.

Compressing coil springs is scary business - your "incident" must have been terrifying. Glad you weren't hurt too badly. I picked up an old school Snap-On WA-92 spring compressor on ebay a few years back and it feels a lot safer than the style you used.

Great work! Amazing attention to the little details and getting everything right. That rear axle was a mess - I think I can smell it from here! I am planning to install a TrueTrac and 4.11 gears in my '65 this winter - time and funds permitting.

I didn't realize the bucket seat cars had different floor braces. That's helpful information.

That will be a great car when it is done. Please keep the updates coming!

- John
Hello gearheadct,

Thank you for the kind words. As for the spring compressor, I bought that new about 17 years ago from Napa, back when items were still made in the USA. It's been used about 3 dozen times on nothing but old American tanks. I would be inclined to believe these might have a lifespan. I think what really stressed it was the springs in my 1973 Caprice Classic convertible. Those are much thicker and stiffer than these Ford springs and these are pretty big springs. My heavy Chevy weighs in at 5000 lbs and I had to use ludicrous amounts of force to compress them to get them in and out.

The old Napa compressor had ACME threads on it verses a more standard thread. I ended up renting the equivalent of the Snap On WA-92 and there was a problem. The insert that slips in has ridges in it to keep it on centre with the coils. However the Ford coil springs are such a diameter that one side rests on the ridge and keeps wanting to slip off as you start compressing. It just wouldn't work. So I sliced the bolt end off my seized compressor and used the free wheeling arm section off mine on the one I rented and that worked.

Just something to keep in mind when using yours.

It is interesting to see the changes and differences in these old Fords, in the end we are just going to have the 1966 LTD 4dr hdtp, the 1966 galaxie 500XL 2dr hdtp and the 1968 XL 2dr hdtp fastback and one spare complete rolling 1966 galaxie 500 2dr hdtop body just in case one of ours gets whacked. But it interesting to see all the nuances between these years and models of essentially the same car.

I'll be happy to keep up with the updates. It'll be a little more slow going as most of that was a catch up to current day plus it's winter and motivation is at a premium this time of year :)

Cheers
 

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XL, I hear you about the Caprice springs. One reason I grabbed the Snap-On tool is because I have lowering springs to install in my '64 Lincoln - at over 5,300 pounds it has some very stiff springs. Even with the tool I still haven't done the job - I'm a little afraid so I keep finding excuses to avoid it.

I ran into the issue you mentioned with the Snap-On tool on my Galaxie. It definitely doesn't line up exactly with the ridges but I was able to orient everything so it was secure. I use never-seize on the threads (as instructed by Snap-On) to avoid galling and thread damage. But I can see how fatigue might be a problem. Scary thought.

"Just" three Galaxies and a spare body. Lol!

- John
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hi gearheadct,

Yuppers big American tanks are not without their peril, especially when it comes to their springs. I know the amount of 3rd gen full size Ford we have is amusing, but we had 7 at one point. Mind you all but two were probably headed to scrap heap. These old Fords are unique in that complete and assembled they hold no real value, but the individual parts can be astronomical in price.

My joke is the more brand new parts you assemble on a Ford the price drastically drops. It's the opposite of value added labour. But we bought all these old clapped out Fords for mostly parts as the majority of them were dirt cheap and 3 of them were extracted from dirt fields. There was one I hated to use as parts as aside from having its drivetrain pillaged from the seller it was a rust free really good condition 4 door pillar car, 3 on the column manual, and so devoid of options it was actually a radio delete car. None of this appealed to me at all and I needed a front door skin for our 4 door hardtop LTD and it turns out the front door skins off a pillared 4 door are the same for a 4 door hardtop. Plus the rear quarters were needed as no one reproduces them worth a darn. I almost forgot the frame for this galaxie 500 XL build came from that 4 door sedan galaxie 500 as it was in stellar condition. It was an Albuquerque car for 99% of its life as I found the original owner of the car left the most detail notes from day 1 of ownership in 1966 in the boot of the car. There was a large binder of receipts, notes and pictures over the decades. Kind of sad actually.

You hate to slice up these old clapped out cars, because even they are not beyond redemption to someone else whose heart is in them. But without aftermarket support it's an unfortunate reality as parts are becoming incredibly scarce. I try to look at it from this point of view; chances are most, if not all these cars would have been scrapped or parted out and not one would make it back on the road. If I can revive 3 back on the road reliably and safely out of 7 plus extraneous parts it's a much better situation for the old car hobby.

After I bought the 1966 LTD I had an offers for the grill that far exceeded the price of what I paid for the car. I understand that as we had to pay handsomely for a much better example of the same grill for this galaxie 500 XL which was mangled.

I think people who restore and even own with the intent to keep these old full size Fords are a rare breed because there is no instant gratification on upgrading, modifying or even maintaining these cars as it's an uphill battle and often a very expensive one. It's not like owning an old Mustang, Camaro, Chevelle, or Challenger where aftermarket everything is aplenty and reasonably priced.

I've seen some of the most ridiculous prices on some of these Ford parts. For instance the rear LTD emblem with spear on the boot lid of the 1965-1966 LTD selling for 1200 dollars NOS. I was fortunate to buy an NOS one off a good friend for 350. But still 350 for basically a small piece of trim is a bit off the wall in the grand scheme of things. It's ~1/3 the price of the car! Another example are the '65-'66 AM-FM radios. Holy cow. 500-700 dollars for something that's pitted and doesn't work. 1000 dollars for one that's serviced with minimum pitting. Wow off the wall prices. Don't even get me started on the XL, LTD, Country Squire steering wheel. The list goes on and on. I spent years finding reasonably priced grill's, AM-FM radios and such. It takes a certain amount of dedication with these cars as they are a time and money pit with no real tangible value other than self satisfaction and pride of driving something that's now very unique.

Cheers
 

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As always, DesertXL, spot on with your analysis regarding the need to have some love of driving something that is not your "typical old Mustang", and the frustration(and expense) of finding the rare parts. As an owner also of one of the aforementioned "typical old Mustang", a 66 Mustang convertible, you would probably not be shocked to hear I get as much attention driving the 66 LTD 4 dr as the 66 Mustang Convertible.

Off topic for a bit, I find that most that approach me when I am in the 66 Mustang are generally non gear head, car people lite folks. All very nice people, but the conversation usually goes something like, "My aunt had this car, and I remember her driving me to the store in it and we got stuck in the snow". The typical person that comes up to me to talk about the 66 LTD is usually talking things like, "hey, that has a 352, I thought they all came with 390's" or something to that level. I actually bought my 66 LTD 4 door because it was NOT a Mustang. I always felt that, even as much blood and sweat (and money) I put into the Mustang, I was not a "real" car guy unless I had something OTHER than a Mustang. And, honestly also, I was getting a bit bored with my wonderful convertible, I mean, I had it to a point where there was nothing else to really restore on it, how many times can you rebuild an Autolite 1100 1bbl before you get bored!

So, I took the LTD plunge back in 2017. And, I will say I have more fun, get more satisfaction with that big 4 door boat than with the Mustang. Don't get me wrong, I still love the 66 Mustang convert that I have, still go start it up at least once a week and will always take it to the random car show here and there now. Maybe because I know the LTD is no where close to being done, it still is a challenge and each small improvement I make I can see the difference. Either way, I am hugely glad I bought my LTD, as it has opened me up to a whole another group of friends at shows- esp the Carlisle All Ford Nationals every year- where the group of folks is pretty much the same, and I enjoy hanging with them, perhaps more so than the Mustang crowd I used to. They just seem to KNOW more about their cars, vs my Mustang brethren.(and I am talking they know more mechanical details, build details versus many Mustang owners stories of how many mods you can put on a car and "gee, that one looks pretty in red" that I would get often when sitting in Carlisle or other shows with my other fellow Mustang owners).

And, again remember, I AM a Mustang owner, so I like the car alot, just enjoying my run with restoring my LTD and following people like DesertXL journey with his continues to inspire me.

Now for pricing on parts, yes, it was quite an eye opener when I started my LTD project. First, I realized quickly there were only a couple vendors that had the generic parts you needed, and that their prices and quality varied. Not like the Mustang, where I had 5 different companies with full catalogs where I could essentially build a new Mustang, ground up, body included(dynacorn) from parts in their catalog. No, the LTD would be a challenge, but I like that.

Ebay, as maligned as it is, was a good source of parts, again, you need to know market values, and what you can afford to pay, and also understand how rare the part is. For example, I needed the rear rocker trim on the passenger side, until I made some contacts here on this forum, didnt realize how rare it was to find it for my 4 door LTD. So, hence, I paid a fair, but much higher price than I thought I would have to originally. Rarity can do that to a part, but I was glad to have it.

And, the "LTD" crown on mine was literally in 2 pieces, sitting on the back seat floor when I bought that car. Thank GOD whomever save the broken plastic emblem, and I carefully put it back together and even fixed the back side paint that was scratched out. You would have to look closely to see it is broken now. Luckily, they saved that trunk chrome spear also that the plastic "LTD" crown sits in, because as DesertXL says, that one on Ebay is $1200 bucks! (And, that part has actually been sitting on Ebay since 2017 still, unless one is desperate as a last piece for their perfect LTD, that will sit unsold)

So, kudos to all that have taken up the cause to keep these big boats floating on the road, hats off to you all and good job Desert XL!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Power Steering Gear

Time for another installment of galaxie :)

I have a couple spares of these '65-'68 power steering gears to choose from, but I decided to see if the gear out of the 1966 galaxie 500 XL was worth rebuilding. Well what a shock it wasn't too bad.

SteeringGear_0_1.jpg


The one thing I've noticed on these Ford power steering gears is the bushing on the Pitman shaft wears. Now this was cheap on Fords part. The Saginaw power steering gear (also a possibility on these cars) and the Ford manual steering gear have a needle bearing for the Pitman shaft and doesn't wear.

If you can see the Pitman shaft move side to side with someone oscillating the steering wheel in the car whilst observing, then the bushing is worn and needs to be replaced. I have seen plenty of people just replace seals but never the worn bushing. The other item that wears is the Pitman arm as there is no grease fitting on them. This can be tedious hunting these down. This is an NOS Moog arm and an NOS Ford bushing. As of two years ago I knew Rare Parts was producing the Pitman Arm. The Pitman arm for the power and manual steering gears are different.

From what I've seen these parts are pretty well worn and sloppy at about 100K miles. Obviously the less city miles the less the steering is used and the less worn these parts will be. But these were pretty well and truly worn as I could move these wear parts side to side with just the strength of my hands/arms.

The Pitman arm from Rare Parts is a little over a 100 dollars as I bought one for the 1966 LTD as that was worn as well. To the best of my knowledge no one is currently making the bushings, once they are gone that may be it, kind of like the C4/C6 tranny mount for these cars. These bushings are about 10 bucks apiece and if you have a couple of these cars you intend to keep you may want to stock up.

Onward.

SteeringGear_0_2.jpg

The murky brown mess. I am not going to show how to disassemble one of these as it's more cumbersome with the camera, rather I'll show how to put the clean pieces back together. You can just work backwards to take it apart.

A wave of the Harry Potter wand (if only) and........

SteeringGear_01.jpg


All the internals are cleaned, the case powder coated and most of the hardware blasted, blackened and clear coated.

Onto the nitty gritty details.

SteeringGear_03.jpg

The cheap easy tool for removing the bushing is a 1/2" bolt with 1/2" grade 8 washers like above.

SteeringGear_02.jpg

It's a close fit that works.

SteeringGear_04.jpg

Now there is no stop lip on these cases, as a result you can press it in or out either end. I personally think it's easier to push downward as pictures to remove and install. Now a couple notes on detail. There are oiling groves in the bushing. You want to place the grooves as pictured because all the pressures and wear spots occur in two spots on the bushing only. The direction of side to side perpendicular to the long axis of the steering gear so you want to make sure lubricating oil can enter that area.

SteeringGear_05.jpg

To install the new bushing you want to use a wider driver (left) to start and drive it flush with the case then switch over to the 1/2 inch bolt driver to set it down in the bore properly. This way you wont risk damaging the new bushing and also help start it true with the bore and not tilted.

worn1.jpg

You can see the heavy wear marks only on one area. There are similar marks on the opposite side of the bushing as well. This is the only area it wears due to the intense side pressures of the Pitman arm articulation.

SteeringGear_28.jpg

Next up the lower Pitman (Ford calls it Sector) shaft seals. Both rubber seals are identical. It takes two due to the intense case pressures that can develop when hitting the stops on the control arms. (>1000 PSI).

SteeringGear_29.jpg


Use the largest driver that will safely fit without hitting the bore. I almost forgot to mention to use a liberal amount of Vaseline when assembling the innards. Now a word about these seals. There is no stop other than the bore lip for the bushing. However do not drive these all the way down. You want to drive these in just enough to get the snap ring on and no more. Now the pressures will seat the seals against the snap ring but if they have to travel any distance you risk damage or them not moving true and cocking off to the side and leaking.

continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Power Steering Gear Continued
It should look close to this.

SteeringGear_30.jpg


Onto the control valve housing.

SteeringGear_06.jpg

This is another potentially sticky wicket. For a bearing driver a 7/16" bolt with grade eight 1/2" washers works really well.

SteeringGear_08.jpg

The 7/16" nut passes through the bearing middle, unlike the 1/2" bolt/nut.

SteeringGear_07.jpg

Now there is no bearing stop either on this. You have to just press it in far enough to either be flush or just proud of the seal ridge. If you go to far you'll start to block the fluid port at the top pictured.

SteeringGear_09.jpg

I highly recommend a shop press or an arbor press as you have more control than with a hammer.

SteeringGear_10.jpg

Like so.

SteeringGear_11.jpg


Switch back to the normal seal driver to install the seals. Again only install the main seal far enough to install the snap ring. I was able to just use hand/arm pressure to push this in. Once the snap ring is installed install the dust seal.

SteeringGear_14.jpg

Like so.

Now the tricky bit.

SteeringGear_15.jpg


The spool valve needs to go on the same direction it was taken off as this will become more evident shortly. If you put the spool valve in backwards, you may find the power assist unequal from a left turn verses a right turn.

SteeringGear_16.jpg

On this particular unit the V groove land was closer to the centre and this was calibrated this way. I wouldn't trust the direction being standard with every one of these.

continued on the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Power Steering Gear Continued
SteeringGear_17.jpg

The thin washer on the left is actually a selective (calibration) washer that results in a neutral hydraulic balance with no steering input applied to the input shaft. This is needed because of the machining tolerances. This washer precisely locates that moveable spool valve in the bore in the housing at the top resulting in all the fluid going in and out the hoses with no flow diverted to the rack piston.

SteeringGear_19.jpg


Lube up everything really good and install the spool/worm assembly shaft into the housing. It should seat and you should feel the drag from the new seals.

SteeringGear_20.jpg


Here's how I fixture the control housing for the next step of torquing down the main and lock nut.

SteeringGear_21.jpg

This is one tool I would highly recommend you buy or make like I did. If you do not get the torque on the retaining nuts right you may up with a damaged power steering gear or if it comes loose an out of control one.

SteeringGear_22.jpg

I made this out of a pipe nipple and a cheap Duralast socket welded to it. Probably the only good application of anything Duralast. Did I just say that? :whistle:
:)


SteeringGear_23.jpg

torque specs

SteeringGear_24.jpg


Torquing the main and lock nut down properly. Another note about these steering gears. I have noticed there is no more buy one and return yours as a core. The only options you have are rebuild it yourself or send it out. No more cores it seems. So if you think you can skimp by with a punch and chisel on these nuts and you damage it beyond use, you are now up a creek without a paddle, as it's probably going to get really expensive for you very quickly.

SteeringGear_25.jpg


Next up, assembling the rack. You should have 27 balls ready to install.

SteeringGear_26.jpg

Then comes the seals. The round black O-ring goes in first, then the teflon square cut one.

SteeringGear_27.jpg


Like so.

Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Power Steering Gear Continued

SteeringGear_31.jpg

Next up lube up the housing bore, rack piston and assemble with the O-Rings.

If the Teflon seal doesn't want to compress enough to enter the bore easily you can attach the 4 bolts to the control housing and into the case equally and use the input shaft to carefully drive the piston into the bore squarely.

SteeringGear_32.jpg

Next install the Pitman (Sector) shaft.

SteeringGear_33.jpg

Then the top cover

SteeringGear_34.jpg

Just a note be sure to draw up the Pitman shaft set screw all the way up through the cap before torquing down the cap bolts as you could crack the cap.

SteeringGear_35.jpg

Lock sealing nut and washer for the over center Pitman lash adjustment. The seal kit does not come with a new nut or washer. I bought this full size nut at Air Craft Spruce and you can also get this nut with sealing/locking end in half size also.

SteeringGear_36.jpg

Just leave it loose for the moment.

SteeringGear_39.jpg

Now you need a very sensitive low range torque wrench for this. This one only goes to 15 inch pounds.

SteeringGear_38.jpg


SteeringGear_40.jpg

You're looking for 9-10 inch pounds and this is the part I see so many try to adjust this portion by feel. Or they try to set this to alleviate other play in the steering parts. This adjustment is really critical, too much and you risk damaging the Pitman shaft and rack teeth or cracking the gear case. Too little and you'll have excessive play. There is no way you can possible "feel" 9-10 inch pounds. Sorry, I like shooting from the hip too, but this is not the time.

Plus this adjustment needs to be done at centre. This steering gear has a lock to lock of 4 turns so set to 2 turns in from either end to carry this out.

I will say this, 1/2 turn of the Pitman shaft adjuster bolt makes a world of difference between too much play and binding. When finished tighten the lock nut.

SteeringGear_41.jpg

Completed and ready to install.

continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Power Steering Gear Continued

SteeringGear_43.jpg


SteeringGear_44.jpg

That parts done. The new Pitman arm is drying.

SteeringGear_45.jpg

These are the old seals and boy some of them were rock hard. Bin food.

SteeringGear_46.jpg

For those interested, this is the model of the torque wrench. Yes it's a bit pricy for seemingly a limited application. But if you really want to do it right, as they say you have to pay to play.

SteeringGear_47.jpg

For those interested in blackening your own hardware, this is what I used. I just filled a salsa jar with it then added distilled water. Works fast.

Mind you this is not corrosion control you still have to clear coat the bolts for that.

Hope you found this useful.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Power Steering Gear Follow up

PitmanArm_1.jpg


The new Pitman arm was dry and installed. Now that the intense drag of the new ball joints, tie rods and the like were attached to the steering gear a new problem was noted. There is 4-5˚ of deadband in the input shaft of the steering gear. This is play before the torsion rod engages. There wasn't enough load on the bench to catch this.

It's either a loose torsion rod spring or more likely the spiral race in the worm gear and or rack is worn. Either way there is pretty much nothing you can do that's practical to correct this. I have 3 other spares of this '65-'68 steering gear, I shall rebuild another in the same fashion and see how that fares.

Sometimes no matter how well you prepare and try your best you can't win them all. However I should have known as this was the steering gear out the '66 galaxie 500 XL that I have yet to find one single good part in. <sigh>

<grumbling> That car was such a pile of.......
:(
I should have known better. Agh well I'll condemn this gear to the parts shelf labeled as mediocre/parts.

Onto the sway bar......
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Sway Bar


I wanted to upgrade the sad little pencil like front sway bar to something a little more robust. In my perusing of posts and forums it was mentioned that later model large Fords yield a sway bar that can be used on the '65-'68. Armed with that a couple years ago we set off the junkyard to pillage a couple of thicker sway bars. We came back with two, one from a early 70's El Ranchero and one from a 1978 T-Bird.

Well time to see if they truly will fit.

SwayBar_2.jpg

The thickest one was from the T-Bird. The end link distance was correct but the frame mounting was pushed forward.

SwayBar_1.jpg

I'm holding up the rod against the frame and you can see the mounting difference. Now I assume these people that suggested this bar had to contrive a new mounting scheme. However the bar would be a little lower with the bushing and you want it off the frame and this puts it in the path of the radius arm rod (strut rod) on a full upward suspension deflection and they would make contact most likely resulting in a bent radius arm rod.

This did not bode well with me.

SwayBar_3.jpg

Here's the sway bars. The top is the '65-'68 full size bar. The middle is the El Ranchero and the bottom the T-Bird.

SwayBar_4.jpg

You can see the difference in mounting positions more clearly.

I had clearly wasted my time and money buying these, so I had enough of this and tossed all three in the pile to take to the dump. Then I bought this --> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-22389F

I remember seeing the Jay Lenos garage video of Hotchkiss making this and other suspension parts for his 1966 galaxie 500 7 litre. I figured if any aftermarket part is going to fit properly it'll be for his car.

SwayBar_5.jpg

It came tonight. Summit doesn't waste time shipping.

SwayBar_6.jpg


Bloody hell. This takes overkill to a whole new level. It's a hollow tube too, which is good because it weighs twice that of the original.

SwayBar_7.jpg

It's borderline obscene, very cool, but borderline ridiculous. Funny they make a rear sway bar as well, but with this do you really need one....... This resembles a 1 ton truck sway bar.

SwayBar_8.jpg

Credit where credit is due. It fits pretty well and clears everything. I also mounted the brake hoses to the frame.

SwayBar_9.jpg


Aside from another redo on another steering gear the front is done. Time to start focusing on the rear axle. I have everything sans the 31 spline 1541h axle shafts from Moser. They are in transit.

Cheers
 

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This is an utterly amazing, enthralling, and epic thread! Don't tell anyone, but I spent the the entire morning at work reading it. Outstanding work, documentation, and narration!!
 

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+1 on the Hotchkis sway bar. I have the same one on my '67 and it is pretty sick!

What's interesting to note is that the Hotchkis website lists it as fitting the '65-'66 Galaxie but it does in fact fit the '65-'68 model years. Even the instructions supplied with the unit states this fact, so it might be a good idea for them to update their website.

164424
 

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Discussion Starter #36
This is an utterly amazing, enthralling, and epic thread! Don't tell anyone, but I spent the the entire morning at work reading it. Outstanding work, documentation, and narration!!
Hello Dakar09,

Most kind indeed :) thank you. I just wanted to share what I've learned over the years in hoping it helps someone else out or at the very least inspires them to tackle some different project of their very own. When I had my first car back in high school this kind of information was not available, heck the internet was barely viable and everything had to be learned the hard way.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #37
+1 on the Hotchkis sway bar. I have the same one on my '67 and it is pretty sick!

What's interesting to note is that the Hotchkis website lists it as fitting the '65-'66 Galaxie but it does in fact fit the '65-'68 model years. Even the instructions supplied with the unit states this fact, so it might be a good idea for them to update their website.

View attachment 164424
Hello 289Galaxie,

Did you notice a difference in the handling on the sway bar alone assuming everything else is OEM?

Two of the tests I am anxious in doing once the 1966 LTD and 1966 galaxie 500 XL are completed are suspension/handling tests and braking tests. The LTD still sports factory power drum brakes and the factory suspension whereas the galaxie 500 XL will have power 4 wheel disc and this enormous sway bar. I think the cars are similar enough (FE, C6, factory air con) to make a decent comparison.

Should be interesting.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The following post is more of a play by play post as it reflects what's recently done, specifically today.


Power Steering --> Round 2
Talk about deja vu.

Round2PS_1.jpg

One of the spares.

Round2PS_2.jpg

Super... another toxic mess to, well.... unmess.

I'm just painting the case parts this time. They are cleaned and the first coat is drying.

So then I started on this:


Differential

Diff_1.jpg

Time to get crack'n on this. I do believe I have all the parts to assemble the third member. The third member case is a Summit Nodular Iron unit. An Eaton Truetrac will reside in it and tethered to that is a set of 3.00 gears. Now for the astute you're probably wondering how 3.00 gears are going to work in a Truetrac that will only accept 3.25 and larger gear sets.

That is a good question. I did some research and just a little machining needs to be done on the face of the pinion to clear the differential body. If that's all, then I think I can handle chucking that up in the lathe and face cutting the pinion. Currie enterprises offers this complete third member with the Truetrac and 3.00 gears. I'm not saying what you see on the table was inexpensive but it's a heck of a deal compared to the Currie ($1600).

I am reusing the 3.00 gear set from the galaxie 500 XL. If I can't get a decent gear pattern I have two more sets of 3.00 gear sets I can try. Now the timing marks are still visible on these gears. For those unaware the gears are machined together and timing marks are placed on the gear sets that are non-hunting and semi-hunting. Therefore it's important to time the pinion to the ring gear when assembling, much like a camshaft timing sprocket set.

My goal for this axle to accomplish similar to the building of the Ford 9" I did for my Chevrolet Caprice Classic. See here for that build up and installation: https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/replacing-a-non-9-axle-with-a-ford-9-axle.14425/

With that I have the key third member pieces cleaned and the first coat of paint applied (POR 15).

Probably will not be till after Christmas before they are ready to assemble. But I still have an axle housing to contend with and Explorer type disc brakes to adapt to it. It will not be easy.

Cheers
 

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Hello 289Galaxie,

Did you notice a difference in the handling on the sway bar alone assuming everything else is OEM?

Two of the tests I am anxious in doing once the 1966 LTD and 1966 galaxie 500 XL are completed are suspension/handling tests and braking tests. The LTD still sports factory power drum brakes and the factory suspension whereas the galaxie 500 XL will have power 4 wheel disc and this enormous sway bar. I think the cars are similar enough (FE, C6, factory air con) to make a decent comparison.

Should be interesting.

Cheers
What I did first was to replace the stock sway bar which I believe was 7/8" diameter (could be wrong) with an Addco unit. The Addco is a solid bar that's 1-1/8" in diameter and is quite heavy. The difference was absolutely night and day. Highway off-ramps that I was white knuckling at 40 mph I was now taking at 50-55 mph with minimal body roll.

After a year or so I replaced the Addco with the Hotchkis for no reason other than I wanted the Hotchkis. Wasteful I know but I sold the Addco to a friend so it took the sting out a bit. Although the Hotchkis bar is larger in diameter than the Addco, as you noted the Hotchkis is hollow therefore much lighter. I would have to say that I did not notice a difference in handling between the Hotchkis and Addco, but the Addco was already much better than stock. In my humble opinion, each one is leaps and bounds over the original but equal when comparing the two brands.

Keep in mind that not everything else is OEM. I'm running Eaton Detroit -1" springs at all four corners and KYB shocks but I also had that combination with the stock sway bar. I also added the PMT trailing arm kit with rear sway bar, albeit about a year after installing the Hotchkis.


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DesertXL,

You mentioned earlier that the floor pans are different between bench and bucket seats. I replaced my '67 Galaxie 500 bench seat with '67 XL buckets and other than drilling a few extra holes, they bolted right in. Is it possible that in '67 the design was changed to accommodate either bucket or bench seats or am I missing a key piece that should have been installed? Can you take a look and see if there's anything missing? Thanks.

This is a pic of the floor pan on my '67.

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