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Discussion Starter #41
What I did first was to replace the stock sway bar which I believe was 7/8" diameter (could be wrong) with an Addco unit. The Addco is a solid bar that's 1-1/8" in diameter and is quite heavy. The difference was absolutely night and day. Highway off-ramps that I was white knuckling at 40 mph I was now taking at 50-55 mph with minimal body roll.

After a year or so I replaced the Addco with the Hotchkis for no reason other than I wanted the Hotchkis. Wasteful I know but I sold the Addco to a friend so it took the sting out a bit. Although the Hotchkis bar is larger in diameter than the Addco, as you noted the Hotchkis is hollow therefore much lighter. I would have to say that I did not notice a difference in handling between the Hotchkis and Addco, but the Addco was already much better than stock. In my humble opinion, each one is leaps and bounds over the original but equal when comparing the two brands.

Keep in mind that not everything else is OEM. I'm running Eaton Detroit -1" springs at all four corners and KYB shocks but I also had that combination with the stock sway bar. I also added the PMT trailing arm kit with rear sway bar, albeit about a year after installing the Hotchkis.


View attachment 164425
Hello 289Galaxie,

Thank you ever so kindly for posting the picture of your rear axle. I have a favour to beg, would you mind posting a picture of your rear control arms?

The reason I ask is I do not like the Hotchkis rear sway bar installation. I like the simplicity of a rear sway bar on the rear lower control arms like yours. I added a rear sway bar in a very similar fashion to my 1973 Caprice Classic which never had one nor does anyone make one for it. I am curious as to the shape/dimension of your lower control arms.

If it's one thing I wish Ford had the foresight to do was put in a triangulated 4 link rear suspension these 3rd gens.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #42
DesertXL,

You mentioned earlier that the floor pans are different between bench and bucket seats. I replaced my '67 Galaxie 500 bench seat with '67 XL buckets and other than drilling a few extra holes, they bolted right in. Is it possible that in '67 the design was changed to accommodate either bucket or bench seats or am I missing a key piece that should have been installed? Can you take a look and see if there's anything missing? Thanks.

This is a pic of the floor pan on my '67.

View attachment 164427
Hello again,

Those are indeed the correct bucket seat floor braces. I can only think of two possibilities; either as you suggested in that after 1966 Ford made those floor braces standard or because since you have the convertible, Ford used those floor braces along with added additional structures to add structural integrity.

This coming spring I have to dispose of the body off the 1968 LTD parts car. I'll see if it has the bucket seat braces when I remove the bench seat and carpeting. It's an interesting question for sure.

Cheers
 

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Hello 289Galaxie,

Thank you ever so kindly for posting the picture of your rear axle. I have a favour to beg, would you mind posting a picture of your rear control arms?

The reason I ask is I do not like the Hotchkis rear sway bar installation. I like the simplicity of a rear sway bar on the rear lower control arms like yours. I added a rear sway bar in a very similar fashion to my 1973 Caprice Classic which never had one nor does anyone make one for it. I am curious as to the shape/dimension of your lower control arms.

If it's one thing I wish Ford had the foresight to do was put in a triangulated 4 link rear suspension these 3rd gens.

Cheers
Unfortunately my car is in storage in another part of the state so I can't get any detailed pictures/measurements for you. These are the only pictures I have where you can somewhat see the control arms.

Here's the kit I purchased, they also offer a kit with adjustable control arms. Trailing Arm Kit The description states they're 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 rectangular tubing and perhaps the picture will show what you need to see.

164429
164430
 

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Hello again,

Those are indeed the correct bucket seat floor braces. I can only think of two possibilities; either as you suggested in that after 1966 Ford made those floor braces standard or because since you have the convertible, Ford used those floor braces along with added additional structures to add structural integrity.

This coming spring I have to dispose of the body off the 1968 LTD parts car. I'll see if it has the bucket seat braces when I remove the bench seat and carpeting. It's an interesting question for sure.

Cheers
Excellent observation regarding the convertible having extra braces to add rigidity. The extra frame I have came from a '68 convertible which had the same floor pan so I thought they were all the same. The thought had never crossed my mind that it may be due to it being a convertible and I'll bet that's exactly the reason.

Too bad someone thought fiberglass was the way to fix floor pans, trunk pans, etc. on the '68. I bought it for the frame only so I sold what I could and junked the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Power Steering --> Round 2 Continued

Thought I'd continue on with steering gear #2.

Steering2_1.jpg

All the parts cleaned and painted.

I'll go right to the juicy end since I just covered this.

Steering2_2.jpg

This has more play than the first one.....
:(
Well crap....

You win some and you loose some. But here's my thoughts on all this. But first a simple primer on how these things work for those who may not know. If you do skip this part.

Quick and dirty tutorial:

SteeringGear_15.jpg

This is the control shaft assembly. You can see the input shaft on the right where the steering coupler attaches and the worm gear on the left that moves the piston/rack assembly. There is a torsion spring rod connecting the input shaft to the worm gear. It actually runs inside the input shaft and inside the worm gear. Attached to the torsion spring is a mechanism that either moves the spool valve holder up or down depending on the rotation of the twist on the torsion rod bar. If you have vice grip like hands and have enough arm/hand strength you can hold the worm gear in your left hand and the input shaft in your right and twist in opposite directions. Depending on how much strength and grip you have you can feel the torsion spring/rod in there and probably see the spool valve holder slide up or down the long axis.

Armed with that mental visual, how the power assist works is the power steering pump puts out a controlled flow rate independent of engine RPM. The flow rate enters and exits the steering gear. The spool valve takes the input pressure and applies it to both side of the piston/rack if there is no twist on the torsion rod (no steering wheel input). When you want to steer the car, this is what happens. First when you move the steering wheel, you are trying to spin the worm through the torsion rod via the input shaft. The worm tries to move the rack through the ball bearings that recirculate. This produces resistance because the rack is ultimately directly connected to the tyres via the Pitman shaft, Pitman arm and steering linkages (tie rods and such). In other words for a tiny movement of the steering wheel you are trying to move the wheels manually as if there was no power steering. This resistance causes the torsion rod to twist and the spool valve to move in the appropriate direction that starts cutting off return fluid to the pump, thus raising pressure, whilst simultaneously applying that pressure to the side of the piston that will move the rack in the direction you're turning.

So really the power assist works off of the torque differential between the worm gear and the input shaft. The greater the amount of twist (more torque) the more the spool valve moves and the more hydraulic pressure or assist you receive. I hope I explained that well enough, if so cool beans we're both on the same page. The extra play that arises comes from a worn worm, worn rack or worn balls, or all the above. Since the power assist only reacts to the amount of twist in the torsion rod, any play in the worm to rack interface doesn't start to load the torsion rod until that play is taken up. If you have 7 degrees of play before the torsion rod engages that will translate to linear amount of circumference steering wheel travel (depends on the diameter of steering wheel) that effectively does absolutely nothing.

Now we were looking at it from the input shaft side, lets consider what happens from the output side of the steering gear. Say you're holding steering wheel firm or locked trying to drive in a straight line. Now the wheels hit a pot hole or a groove in the road and that tries to force the wheels to turn. That force is translated up through the steering tie rods and such through Pitman Arm into the Pitman shaft and into the rack/piston. That rack will move and spin the worm gear, but you're holding the input shaft (steering wheel) from turning. The torsion rod will start to twist and apply hydraulic pressure which will keep the rack from moving any further and prevent the wheels from following the grooves in the road or a sudden steering event from a pothole.

You can imagine if there is indeed play in the rack to worm gear interface, the wheels are allowed to move a little bit more before the hydraulic system corrects that. So the car will have more of a propensity to wander and of course wider tyres will tram more exacerbating the effect.

How to fix this.....

That's another whole ball of sticky wax. There are no replacement parts at all I can find for this. You have a few choices, some unpleasant; find another steering gear and hope for the best, have a machine shop measure/scan the rack and worm then CNC new pieces then heat treat. That route I'd estimate 2-3 grand for a one-up set. Or if the wear is strictly in the rack and uniform try a bearing manufacturer to see if you could get steel balls in a couple thousandths oversize and see if that eliminates the play.

No matter what you do it's time consuming and pricy.

The problem with finding another steering gear is also wear and then, even finding another steering gear. 1965-1968 are the same and they are all old. I have a theory that the wear problem stems from oil break down due to heat. How many people ever change the power steering fluid? Yuppers not many. Ford uses ATF for power steering and ATF breaks down with heat rather easily. The 3rd gen Fords and some of the 4th gens use Ford-Thompson pumps. Ford Thomspon pumps seem to have a high regulated flow rate. These are the old round P.S. pumps with a metal shell for a reservoir. The high flow rate generates more heat, as a result I have found through looking at these cars every 3rd gen Ford with factory air seems to have come with a power steering cooler, or at least the big block cars did. This latest power steering gear I rebuilt that has even more slop than the first one (and has 1/4 less miles than the first gear I did), came from a car that had dealer installed air but no cooler. The oil was black/brown. This supports that theory, but with a small case sample size it could be coincidence.

With all that said, for now I will run with the first steering gear I did and is already installed on the frame. Granted I'm being picky, the play in this one may not even be noticeable as I do not plan on wide tyres, it will be either 225 or 235 all the way round.

To complete the front end of the chassis I put on some crappy tyres and rims for now. Time to focus on the rear axle and its disc brakes.

Steering2_5.jpg

Cheers
 

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Transmission Continued


Tranny_32.jpg


It's going back together and looking nothing like it did.

Tranny_34.jpg

Tranny_38.jpg

Tranny_39.jpg

I don't think its own mother would recognize it.
:rolleyes:


But seriously a word on rollerizing one of these. If you have the means to machine the parts yourself then you can save several hundred dollars by doing the labour and just buying the 60 or so dollars worth of Torrington bearings and doing the job yourself. However even with entrusting the machining work to a machinist is a risky proposition because of the incredulous amount of details on the cuts. One wrong cut and you'll be buying an expensive planetary or such part. Plus any machinist worth his salt will take his time, review the instructions and do the work. All this takes loads of time and by the time you pay his bill you can just buy the parts already pre-machined as a kit.

A word on this transmission. This was the most ludicrous resurrection I have ever done. The labour was astronomical and my cost alone was about 1200 dollars for parts. You can imagine how much this would have cost at a restoration shop. Figure 90 dollars an hour shop rate plus mark up on the parts. This would be easily 4 grand.

I didn't go into the details of this transmission build as it parallels this one if you're interested: https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/1966-ltd-resto-mod-thread.14264/page-2#post-77063

I wish I had taken a picture of the flexplate. It was truly comical. The metal looked like a shattered windscreen. The amount of cracks in it was amazing.

The next post will deal with building up the donor frame. I won't touch on the interior until the chassis is complete and work starts on the body.

Thanks for reading and watching.

Cheers
All I can say is Holy Cow!!! and You do nice work :)
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Differential

Time to start on assembly.

XLGears_01.jpg

I ran a flat file over the new differential and the old ring gear to remove any burrs. Next I pressed on the carrier bearings.

XLGears_03.jpg

XLGears_04.jpg

I had to get creative whilst not damaging the parts to push the bearing past the differential nose sticking up.

The ring gear can go on next.

XLGears_05.jpg

If you don't have a decent book on Ford rear axles, I have to suggest this book. It's full of good information.

Now the ring gear should be snug over the differential, but this one was tight. I ran a file on the inside diameter to remove any burrs to no avail. I ended up sanding the ID of the ring gear and test fitting numerous times till it finally felt snug without needing a press to get it on. What should have taken 15 minutes to install took over 2 hours. I see why people go mad and abandon car projects.

Also chase the threads for the ring gear and bolts, use Locktite and torque down evenly. Now to hold the differential I used one of the brand new axle shafts.

XLGears_02.jpg

The new Moser 31 spline 1541h alloy shafts arrived.

XLGears_06.jpg

I have aluminum jaw protectors installed and holding the shaft which holds the differential enough to torque down the ring gear bolts.

On a side note sorry for the weird lighting pictures. I had recently replaced the fluorescent's over the bench with soft white LED's retrofit bulbs and whilst it's easier on the eyes, it plays havoc with the camera, especially when there is cool white (blueish) fluorescent's in the main roof of the building. The white balance is set to auto but it's all over the place and the pictures end up funky.

XLGears_08.jpg

I forgot that the new Summit nodular iron cases have a snap ring to hold in the pinion snout bearing. Didn't need stock retainer after all.

XLGears_09.jpg


Installed.

XLGears_10.jpg

A couple things here. First before you remove the end caps mark them so they go on the correct side. I just take a small punch and dot the base and bearing cap (left hand side you can see a dimple on the bottom and on the cap).

The last thing, on these Summit cases, remove that small bolt that secures the lock for the bearing adjuster and toss it right in the rubbish bin. It's garbage. It's so soft you cannot even torque them down to the 20 ft lbs without stripping out the head. They are too soft. Obtain some proper fasteners.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Differential Continued

XLGears_11.jpg

I made a quick and dirty holder a few years ago. It's a pain to hold up the third member and bolt on by yourself, but once it's on, it works well enough.

Right, onto the pinion support.

XLGears_12.jpg

New races to be installed.

XLGears_13.jpg

Next press on the inner bearing to the pinion.

XLGears_14.jpg

Ok, this looks funky. What I need to do is install this pinion support without shims and adjust the ring gear close to binding and see if the pinion is going to hit the differential carrier. Now Eaton says their carrier will only work on 3.25:1 and higher ratios. However I came across other references that say it may work without machining or at the very worst I'll have to trim a little off the face of the pinion.

With that I didn't want to waste a crush sleeve or fully install the new nut. So I contrived this hideous thing to do a basic preload whilst checking clearances.

XLGears_15.jpg

For once I lucked out, about 1/4 of clearance under worst case conditions. No machining necessary, these 3.00 gears will work with the Eaton Truetrac.
:)


Now I can properly assemble the pinion support.

XLGears_16.jpg

Remove the hideous thing I had on there, the outer bearing and install the crush sleeve.

XLGears_17.jpg

Installed the outer bearing and the new oil slinger.

XLGears_18.jpg

Installed new oil seal. Now I do use a little swipe of RTV on the skirt of the seal to help seal on an old used housing.

Now for the yoke.

XLGears_19.jpg

The seal had worn a deep groove into the yoke so it needed a sleeve.

XLGears_20.jpg

The original 28 spline axle shafts have a similar deep groove and can't be saved. Another reason to make the upgrade to 31 spline.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Differential Continued
Here's something of possible interest.

XLGears_21.jpg

It would seem that there are two size yokes used on the Ford full size cars. From what I've observed the 65-66 Fords with 352 or smaller engines came with the small bearing Ford 9" and also the smaller yoke that only accepts 1310 series Cardan joints. The 390 and larger engine cars received the large bearing Ford 9" axle and larger yoke for the larger stronger 1330 series Cardan joints.

Now I know Ford discontinued the small bearing Ford 9" at least for the full size cars in 1967 and instead offered that WER Salisbury type (8.8 predecessor) and I do believe those also have the smaller yoke.

Just something to keep in mind when replacing an axle or upgrading one.

XLGears_22.jpg

New sleeve installed. I also used Locktite to seal and hold. This can be assembled onto the pinion and tightened with the new crimp nut with sealant.

XLGears_23.jpg

The pinion support is finished now to sort out some shims. I bought another assortment pack, but since nothing is marked, I spent some time and measured and wrote on them in thousandths their value. The ones atop the package are what came in that kit.

XLGears_24.jpg

Now since it's new case I decided to try the middle of road and go from there. So I chose the 0.015" shim and loaded it onto the pinion support.

But before we can tighten down the pinion support into the third member case, I have to get the timing marks lined up.

XLGears_25.jpg

I put a dab of yellow paint on the pinion and ring gear to make it easier to see the original marks when they were machined all those decades ago.

XLGears_26.jpg

The books says to aim for 0.010" on backlash with used gears. Okie Dokie.

XLGears_27.jpg


The mesh pattern on the drive side is too close to the heel (inboard) and high up.

XLGears_28.jpg


It's hard to see but the mesh is too close to the toe (outboard). So I need to increase the distance of the pinion. (The book covers this well). I'll bump this to 0.019".

XLGears_29.jpg


I think we are there, at least on the drive side.

XLGears_30.jpg

It's hard to tell, but the pattern on the coast side is a little high but closer to the centre. From experience on the 1966 LTD's rear axle in resetting the gear mesh, this is about the best you can do on these used old Ford gears.

I spent several hours on the LTD's gears as that was the first one I had done. There is a little art involved with this as well. You have to apply a decent holding force on the ring gear when messing in the goo to make a pattern. The pattern may seem to shift a bit on depending on the holding force, so use several teeth and take the average. Or at least that works for me.

Now I can't get the coast side on centre like the drive side, but is that from used gears or 1960's American auto industries "That'll do" indifference to quality. I was able to get a good pattern centre'd on the coast and drive side of a very similar setup on my Caprice Classic I installed the Ford 9" into. But those were brand new Richmond gears at 350 dollar a set. Just dunno.

So this is done, I need to wipe off the anti-seize and install the pinion support O-ring along with the support hood for the bumper stop.

Until next time.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Rear Axle and Rear Disc Brakes
I had a spot of bother with the rear disc brakes adaption. The rear disc brakes I want to install are the Ford Explorer type brakes because of the large bearing diameter. It's the same size bearing hole as the big bearing 9". However the Explorer disc brakes only work on large bearing diameter Ford 9" axles with the "New Style" bolt pattern aka "Torino Style" bolt pattern.

axleflangechart.png

Here's a chart I nicked off the internet. I naturally looked at this then at the axle.

Axle_1-1.jpg

Well I jumped the gun and immediately thought I had the "New Style" end because of the flange shape.

Ummmmmmm no.

It has the flange of the "New Style" but the bolt hole pattern of "Old Style". I found out the hard way.....

Axle_01.jpg


Well crap.... (actually other things were said, but you get the idea)
:)


This must be some intermediate axle year thing. Figures.....

With that, I had the idea of heating the cast iron backing plate, plug welding the holes closed, then let them cool slowly in the oven. Then mount each backing plate on the mill and using the DRO (digital read out) find centre and then map out the correct "Old Style" holes and drill them into the backing plate so they match the axle perfectly.

But first a note on these Explorer type backing plates.

Axle_02.jpg

These are aftermarket units and not Ford units as Ford discontinued them. I bought these from East Coast Gear for 9o dollars per side. There is a R and L. You can buy the rotors and calipers from Rock Auto. I like these because of the parking brake drum inside the rotor hat. Yes you can buy a generic disc brake kit for the "Old Style" bolt hole pattern but you are stuck using GM calipers with the parking brake lever built into the caliper itself. I am not a fan of those.

OK back to the weld, fill, bake and drill attempt.

In a nutshell it didn't work out so well.

Axle_03.jpg

It turns out I spent too much time on the welding of the holes and couldn't get the backing plates back in the oven fast enough. So the first two holes I filled cooled too quickly and hardened. The last two holes were ok. My oven just didn't go high enough to sustain a long period outside before a controlled cool down. So only two holes drilled normal and the other two spots immediately dulled any drill bit.

Rats....

OK, plan B.

That is to fill the holes in the axle flange and re-drill those. But I would need to order another round of Explorer type backing plates and make an accurate jig that would precisely locate the drill holes.

Axle_05.jpg

Plug welding the steel flange was easy. Just loaded up Er80 in the gas MIG and filled the old drill holes in the flange.

Now for the jig. I had to have a think about this one. This is what I came up with.

Axle_06.jpg


This is the bearing insert side. The round disc simulates the bearing OD.

Axle_07.jpg


On the other side are the drill guides for the holes. I was able to get the hole placement and bearing diameter plate within 1 thousandth. (used the mill with the DRO)

Axle_08.jpg

So the idea here is to place the round disc side in the axle that locates centre precisely and then clock the jig to where it's needed, clamp it to the flange and then drill away.

Then I did a little housekeeping on the axle housing.

Axle_04.jpg

Ford puts those little brake line holder tabs on the axle and I don't care for those. So those came off to make room for a little threaded block that is welded on where a stainless clamp and bolt can reside.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Rear Axle and Rear Disc Brakes Continued

Axle_10.jpg

These are the little blocks I welded on.

Axle_11.jpg

I also added a lower magnetic drain plug. Seems pretty silly to remove the propshaft, pull the axle shafts, remove the brake line and finally remove a ridiculously heavy third member to change the oil. Then put it all back together.

Yuppers drain plug... much easier.
:)


Axle_09.jpg

The last thing I did was tap the vent hole for 1/8" NPT. Ford uses a press in deal and it's kind of cheesy. The original vent has a small hole to prevent the ingress of water and such into the axle. You can buy an 1/8"NPT fitting with a similar small hole from Aircraft Spruce. It's for the oil gauge on reciprocating aircraft engines. The tiny hole ensures the gauge will work, but should the gauge or the line rupture it doesn't drain the engine of oil quickly into the cabin and subsequently having you soil yourself wondering where you're going to put down an airplane with a seized engine.
:)


Axle_12.jpg


POR 15

Even with nothing in the housing, it's pretty darn heavy. The rack is not happy holding it.

Axle_13.jpg

After hours of fighting springs, and fresh bushings it's finally installed. This was really a pain, I didn't struggle at all with the rear springs in the '66 LTD when I put it's rear axle and suspension back in. I'll have to look in the master parts book (well CD) and see if the XL springs have a higher spring rate or other such notable aspect.

I ended up putting a stool under the rear axle housing and lowering the chassis onto the stool, then I climbed atop the frame to compress the springs enough to get the shock bolts in.

It wasn't a pretty sight, but it's done.

Axle_14.jpg

Next was to set up the rear axle housing for the jig to drill the backing plate holes.

Axle_15.jpg


I put an inclinometer on the frame rail and zero'd it.

Axle_16.jpg

Then I adjusted the housing for a 2.5˚ angle to get in the ball park of the engine/trans centre line sitting on their mounts. I will say it is VERY nice Ford gives you an adjustable upper arm mount to change pinion angle. It's a very nice touch.

Axle_17.jpg

I placed the axle bearing about 2/3's of the way in to act a good guide for the backing plates to see where they might be optimally clocked in place.

Axle_18.jpg

It turns out standard position will work best.

Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Rear Axle and Rear Disc Brakes Continued

Axle_19.jpg

The parking brake cable mount is at a good angle. I intend to use the factory '66 parking brake cables but will have to modify the ends to work with the Ford Explorer type backing plate.

So the next bit will be to drill the holes for the backing plates and install the 3rd member. Then there is still a whole myriad of other details to sort out regarding these brakes.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Rear Axle and Disc Brakes Continued

Some more progress today.

Axle1_01.jpg

I leveled the jig to the flange and triple checked everything.

Axle1_02.jpg

I bought a brand new split point 3/8" bit for this, glad I did as it was a chore to plug a 3/8" hole through the flange.

Axle1_03.jpg

The little pilot portion really aides in drilling.

Axle1_05.jpg

The holes are very snug for the 3/8" Tee bolts, there is no wiggle room.

Axle1_04.jpg

However the new Torino/New Style axle bearing retainer plates fit like a glove.

Axle1_06.jpg


Same deal on the other side.

Axle1_07.jpg

Similar results. This jig will come in handy in the future as my 1968 XL fastback also sports factory disc brakes which are the same that were on the '68 LTD which are now on this chassis. My '68 XL also has this axle and it should be a whole lot easier to convert it to rear disc with the jig. If in the future I want to convert the '66 LTD I can use it as it also has this axle.

That little jig just saved me 800 dollars in buying new axle housing bearing ends and the alignment jig to weld on your own ends.

Axle1_08.jpg

Next is to install the 3rd member/centre section.

Axle1_09.jpg


Holy crap. I never want to try and lift that into position ever again. That was stupid. It took everything I had and I still had to borrow from next week to get it in there. I should have done it like I did on the '66 LTD. I brought the 3rd member over to the power winch in the ceiling and then lifted it up and placed the empty axle housing underneath and let the winch take the weight and I just guided it into position. Then I installed the whole deal into the chassis.

Much easier on the back.

Axle1_10.jpg

So now comes more experimentation. I need to figure out the depth of shim needed between the axle shaft and the bearing to make sure the axle itself does not rub on the parking brake components and also determine if the rotor, pads and caliper I have will work on a parts stack up.

I did some quick research and there are a few different rotors and calipers for this type of rear Ford brake. There is early and mid Panther and Explorer. I think they'll all bolt in place, however there are small subtle differences in the dimensions and placements.

I pillaged used rotors and calipers off a '97 Panther and I have new pads. I will test fit those first and play with spacers on the axle shaft to see if those components will play nicely together on this Explorer backing plate.

In order to facilitate this I installed a plastic faux bearing in lieu of the real bearing. It's ABS and 3D printed. This allows me to slide the new axle shafts in place and experiment with shims and such.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Rear Axle and Disc Brakes Continued

Axle1_11.jpg

I have to admit it is neat to see a Panther style rear disc brake on this old crock :)
:)


Axle1_12.jpg

This is the bearing to plate spacer that is needed to take up the space of the thicker disc brake backing plate versus the drum backing plate. I ordered these from Moser when I bought the new 31 spline 1541h alloy axle shafts.

Axle1_13.jpg

So for now I have that spacer installed and the axle bearing retainer plate snugged in.

Once I figure out the shim, rotor and caliper next will be finding an OEM hydraulic caliper hose that best fits this application and run stainless lines to the main hose atop the axle housing.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Rear Axle and Disc Brakes Continued
Onward with a little more progress.

Axle-Brakes_01.jpg

I was experimenting with some differing thickness spacers when the Moser spacers arrived in the post. Turns out these Moser 3/16" thick spacers are perfect for the job. I should point this out, no one (and by no one I mean the common manufacturers of axle shafts) has the 3rd gen full size Fords axle shaft lengths on file, so I carefully measured the old 28 spline axles, filled out the form and had these made exactly as the originals just 31 spline and 1541h alloy.

Axle-Brakes_02.jpg

You can see I'm using the faux plastic (ABS) 3D printed bearing as a mock piece to check the parts stack up. I can just slide the axle shaft in with no pressing required.

Axle-Brakes_03.jpg

So far so good. No more rubbing on the parking brake springs.

Axle-Brakes_05.jpg

Axle-Brakes_06.jpg

The rotor is darn near perfectly placed in the centre of the caliper slide area.

Axle-Brakes_07.jpg

I temporarily installed the caliper and new pads to check fitment.

Axle-Brakes_08.jpg

Everything fit beautifully. The rotor and caliper are from a '97 Panther. I had a check on RockAuto and the application range is from 1996-2002.

Bloody hell, we have factory style Ford rear disc brakes on a large bearing originally 'Old Style' flange 9". :)
:)
It was a long road.

Axle-Brakes_09.jpg


However we are not out of the woods yet. The hydraulic hose to caliper has yet to be determined. The shock bracket is really close.

Armed with all this visual evidence, I ordered new seal kits for the calipers (will rebuild these and powder coat), new hardware, new rotors (they are so cheap it's not even worth having these cut), and a couple of rear brake hoses that I thought might work based off the pictures (thank you RockAuto for posting detailed pictures and specs).

Onto pressing the axle shafts together with shims and real bearings now.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Rear Axle and Disc Brakes Continued

Axle-Brakes_10.jpg

These are the required spacers for this brake adaption. Both were obtained from Moser Engineering.

Axle-Brakes_11.jpg

Axle-Brakes_12.jpg

I just used my cheesy little Harbor Freight shop press and pressed the new bearings and retention collars on. Just make sure you have all the spacers and retainer plates in the right order before commencing otherwise it's going to be a long day.

Axle-Brakes_13.jpg

Installed oil seals into axle and lubed up with grease.

Axle-Brakes_14.jpg

Axle-Brakes_15.jpg

This is the tedious part. The only way to tighten the nuts for the retainer plate is to remove all the parking brake shoes and hardware, then in that tiny space, put it all back together.

It's not impossible, but it's no walk in the park. Those two lower springs are very stiff. It took me a while but I worked out a procedure on assembly that works fairly well to do so.

For those interested, you start with either shoe, in my case I start with the left shoe. I install the pin and clip to hold it onto the backing plate, then I fish up the inner lower spring and attach to the left shoe, then I stretch and attach to the right shoe. Next I unscrew the adjuster about 1/3 the way out and temporarily install (this holds the right shoe more or less in position over the hole for the retainer pin). Then I install the right pin and clip to hold the shoe in. Then I remove the adjuster altogether and fish in the outer lower spring and attach to both shoes, then adjust the adjuster all the way back in and install along with the upper spring.

Axle-Brakes_16.jpg

Other side.

Axle-Brakes_17.jpg

Done.

Axle-Brakes_18.jpg

It's official, I crown thee a roller.

Axle-Brakes_19.jpg


Now just waiting on parts to be delivered. I do want to say a few words on this milestone. This is for anyone wondering about costs and labour to do something like this.

I did a rough tally on the parts and supplies just for what you see here and it came out to around 3500 dollars. That is not counting the rims and tyres. These are just junk rims and tyres I had lying around. The labour is about a solid 120 hours just on this (that's not including many hours of research). If you figure the low end of shop rate of 75 per hour you can see the replacement cost of this alone is quite expensive.

By the time the engine is done (about 10 grand) plus the transmission and installed into the chassis. The price alone on just the chassis will be more than you could ever sell the entire car for and we haven't even begun on the body yet. Hence to do something like this, you need to really love the car and intend on keeping it for darn near life and drive the tyres off it. :)
;)


Anyone who thinks they can properly restore one of these cars then sell it for profit is sadly mistaken. You'd be better off lighting Havana Cigars with 1000 dollar bills. It would be easier on your savings account and you'd have more fun. :p
:p


More to come.

Cheers
 

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Following this as I have a 66 500XL also, and I like to see what others are doing with their cars,
Thanks so much for posting and the great documentation! :):cool:

On those axles, could you have requested Moser to cut access holes in the flange like Ford did on the OEM axles?
That sure makes tightening the retaining nuts much easier!

I have Moser axles in my 66 when I changed the pumpkin to 31 spline locker.
I still have the factory drums so it wasn't too bad getting the nuts tight and re-installing the stock brakes,
but even with that, I was still wishing the Moser axles came with those access holes. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Following this as I have a 66 500XL also, and I like to see what others are doing with their cars,
Thanks so much for posting and the great documentation! :):cool:

On those axles, could you have requested Moser to cut access holes in the flange like Ford did on the OEM axles?
That sure makes tightening the retaining nuts much easier!

I have Moser axles in my 66 when I changed the pumpkin to 31 spline locker.
I still have the factory drums so it wasn't too bad getting the nuts tight and re-installing the stock brakes,
but even with that, I was still wishing the Moser axles came with those access holes. ;)
Hello galaxiex,

That's funny you asked that question, I have this mirrored in another galaxie forum and the moderator asked the same question. When I initially slid everything in using the faux plastic bearing checking the parts stack up it dawned on me how on earth am I going to get the nuts on. I too thought about a potential hole in the axle flange to aid in that. However, whilst that would definitely aid in removal for sure, I'm not so sure about assembly and here's why. There are 4 pieces to perfectly line up in order to get the lock washers and nuts on. The backing plates are two pieces; you have the cast iron bit then the shield and they slide on top of one another. Then you have to get the large outer ring over the bearing in centre of the two backing plate pieces then finally the axle retainer plate over the Tee bolts.

You really need to get your fingers in there and there's no room to do so with the parking brakes in the way. This is definitely a pain no matter which route you take to assemble but at least it shouldn't have to be done for long periods of normal service.

Might you have pictures of your '66 galaxie 500 XL? I would like to see them if you please.

Cheers
 

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DesertXL thanks for the reply.
Your explanation makes sense that access holes in the axles wouldn't really help in your case, but for the factory drums it sure helps. :)
Of course we upgrade and change our cars sooo... (shrug)

Here's some pics of mine, the first few are from before I tore it all apart.
Not great pics but the car looks ok, however, what you don't see is the poorly patched rust, which is why I tore it all apart.

164537


164538


164539


;)
164540


The previous owner had body and paint done (poorly) and the louvers punched in the hood and trunk lid.

I like the look of the louvers but I have a fiberglass teardrop hood for it and another non louvered trunk lid.

Right now the car is still all apart and undergoing refurbishment.

Here's one of how I cleaned the bottom side with a pressure washer, no room in my garage for a rotisserie... ;)
GALAXIE 042.jpg


They are a "handsome" looking car, aren't they. :)
 
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