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Discussion Starter #101
Parking Brakes Finished - Continued

brakes_20.jpg


This is the finished product. I had reservations about the smaller radius curves of the parking brake cable by mounting them at the top of the axle, but since these are new cables and coated, plus I greased them, even the smaller reduced springs are strong enough to relieve tension fully on the parking brake lever as shown. The hook is disengaged.

brakes_21.jpg


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I applied force to the lever (where the pedal cable would attach) and the parking brakes fully work and disengage fully when released.

brakes_24.jpg

Plus the bleeder screw is now perfectly on top.

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On both sides.

This turned out better than originally planned. But it was a long road.

brakes_26.jpg

These are the last parts I need to remake. These ride on the parking brake inner cables and slide down the 'V' to the torque boxes to prevent road debris from entering the casing. I'll have to order some EPDM rubber and drill these out as these old ones are falling apart.

Next will be the engine and body mounts/hardware.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Misc Brakes and Overview
Brakes_1.jpg


These are the dust shields I needed to make for the parking brake cables.

Brakes_2.jpg

I have a sheet of EPDM and tried using a standard hole saw to cut out the discs.

Brakes_3.jpg

However the pilot hole was too big, so I removed the pilot bit and slowed the speed on the drill press down to the lowest speed and it worked just fine.

Brakes_4.jpg

I used a smaller drill bit and then a straight edge gasket maker knife to cut the slices.

Brakes_5.jpg


Installed.

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Brakes_7.jpg

Just to recap I know the parking brake cable casing is routed differently and a bit extreme compared to the original configuration but the inner cable slides easily.

Brakes_8.jpg


Now the chassis is ready for the next round of items; these are the body mounts, tail pipe hangers, bumper bracket hardware and of course an engine.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Body Mounts: Preliminary

Mounts_1.jpg

First step was to find good examples of used hardware to refurbish. I do keep all the little odd bits off of parts cars. Some of the hardware is either too rusted away or just plain broken so it pays to keep hard to find hardware like this.

Mounts_2.jpg

I bought a new body mount kit for the '66. But holy cow the pieces in the box are all extras. Seems like such a waste.

Mounts_3.jpg

First round of hardware refurbishment, still much to do.

Now the preliminary engine planning.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Engine Planning
This is the more the sticky wicket part of the refurbishment. A few years back before the LTD wormed its way into the fold I started on refurbishing the '66 galaxie 500. Now that project was discontinued in favour of the LTD and now the galaxie 500 XL. Now the plain Jane galaxie 500 had a 352 and it was well on its way to being built. When the '66 LTD came to roost here I ended up taking the similar parts from the 352 to complete the 390 in that car.

But the machining to the block and crank were finished as well as a custom set of pistons were made to suit gapless rings.

We want to use the 390 the galaxie 500 XL came with so we are not going to use this 352. I seriously doubt anyone would want any interest in a 352 that was being built for high performance. I would hate for it to become an expensive tacky coffee table.

Engine_1.jpg

Here's the 352. It was lined honed, bored 30 over, decked, oil ports threaded, brass core plugs and new cam bearings installed.

Engine_2.jpg

Engine_3.jpg


Engine_4.jpg

Engine_5.jpg

The pistons were custom made to yield a 10.5: static compression with stock style heads. They are forged, moly coated skirts with gapless moly coated 1.5/1.5/3.0 mm ring packs.

Engine_6.jpg

The 352 crank was cut, polished and balanced against those pistons and Eagle 390 connecting rods.

Engine_7.jpg

All new crank and rod bearings too.

Like I said seems like such a waste to end up a coffee table
:oops:


But I started buying the basics for the 390 build.

Engine_8.jpg

I procured another set of Edelbrock CJ style heads. This time I will go through them thoroughly first. Also procured are head studs, rocker assembly studs and new connecting Eagle connecting rods.

Engine_9.jpg

Also is a new set of FPA headers.

The plan for this 390 build is the following:

1. Check over the Edelbrock heads first.
2. Check the combustion volume of the heads
3. Buy and check the volume of the head gaskets
4. Take the 390 block to the machinist and have it checked to see if it's good to use
5. Have the preliminary machining done and measurements taken.
6. With this block data along with head and gasket data then have another set of custom pistons made.
7. When those are delivered I can take them to the machinist and he can finish the honing for the rings and final bore size. Then he can cut, polish and balance the pistons against the new pistons and rods.
8. Once the block and crank are done I can buy the parts for the roller valve train.
9. Then hopefully assemble the engine.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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DesertXL,

Sorry about your quandary with the partially built 352. Pardon a naive question: I was wondering if you could use the block, pistons and rings, and maybe the rods, with a stroker crank and come up with a 421 or 434 for another project?


You mentioned the Eagle 390 rods, so the piston pin height is adjusted to use the shorter 390 rods vs. the longer 352 ones? This is kind of out of my league so there's likely some pitfalls I'm overlooking. But since no one else had asked, I thought I would. :)

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #106
DesertXL,

Sorry about your quandary with the partially built 352. Pardon a naive question: I was wondering if you could use the block, pistons and rings, and maybe the rods, with a stroker crank and come up with a 421 or 434 for another project?


You mentioned the Eagle 390 rods, so the piston pin height is adjusted to use the shorter 390 rods vs. the longer 352 ones? This is kind of out of my league so there's likely some pitfalls I'm overlooking. But since no one else had asked, I thought I would. :)

Pat
Hello 1964Fastback,

To answer your question about the piston height, yuppers it's altered to work with the 390 rods. As for the engine used for another project, sure it could, but after I'm done with the '66 LTD, the '66 galaxie 500 XL and the '68 XL I'm done with Ford projects.

The '68 XL also came with a 390, just a cheesy Y code, but I intend on using that block and crank for that car as the serial number still matches the body serial (mandated engine VIN serial stamping started in '68). The goal is to have 3 old Fords with the same size engine (390), C6 transmissions and large bearing (heavy duty) Ford 9 inch axles. That way the parts are more or less the same and I don't have to carry different spares. I have still have one '68 LTD I bought for the solid South West frame it has for my '68 XL, but the '68 LTD still has its Z code 390, C6 and large bearing rear axle. So I will keep those as spares for the other three.

I have already taken all the FX transmissions to the dump and given away 2 light duty (small bearing) Ford 9" axles with one left still to get rid off.

The original build of this 352 was to yield around 440 horse (gross @ sea level) to prove that the little 352 was more than commonly known for a boat anchor. I also have C6AE-R heads that are ported, polished, blended, hardened valve seats installed and sporting Ferrea stainless undercut valves for the 352. I have to dig those out of storage as well. Time to get rid of this stuff I am not going to use. I was like John Hammond in Jurassic Park, "I spared no expense" :geek:

Maybe I can put these items on the for sale portion and see if they can help fund the 390 build.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #107 (Edited)
Body Mounts and Bumper Bracket Hardware

Hello All,

Just thought I'd continue with the body mounts and bumper hardware. What a time vampire this turned out to be.

Body Mount-Hardware01.jpg

I try to replace the generic hardware but the specific hardware gets sandblasted, blackened and clear coated, or sand blasted and powder coated and even the new hardware gets cleared for rust protection since it's just zinc plated with colourant. I did use some stainless bits and the beauty of 304 SS is it needs no additional work done to them for this type of application.

The other problem is whilst you can buy the body mounts for the '65-'68 the mounts are really generic and you have to modify them to work properly.

Body Mount-Hardware02.jpg

I'll break this down to certain mounts at a time. These are the 4 firewall mounts.

Body Mount-Hardware03.jpg

Here's the problem. The old mount is pictured in the upper left. You are not given enough of the proper rubber pucks to make that mount. You have to use 2 of the same rubber pucks (lower left) for each mount. The lower original mount (upper middle) has a little extra moulded piece in the middle. I had to add that. It keeps the mount and body from slipping on the stud and the stud hitting the side of the body itself and making noise. So I had to get creative with a boat load of extra rubber tubing and found #6 air con barrier hose would work well, but I still had to drill out the middle for 7/16" since #6 ID is 3/8". Then I rubber cemented that in place on the lower rubber puck (right hand side upper and lower example).

Body Mount-Hardware04.jpg


Here's the new lower modified mounts. Now the body can rest on top of that.

Body Mount-Hardware05.jpg

And here's the top half that sandwiches the body steel in place.

Body Mount-Hardware07.jpg

These are the front radiator support mounts. Now I did reuse the old rectangular blocks as I found a set from some '66 that were in stellar condition. The new kit does not come with the rectangle blocks AT ALL so if you need them you have to use one of the round extra pucks and slice the sides off making the round mount rectangular plus slice a little groove for the original metal washer ear to rest in and hold the rubber from slipping.

Body Mount-Hardware06.jpg


Now the original upper mounts (right hand side) had steel fender like washer in them and also have a moulded nipple section that keeps the metal tube liner from hitting the metal frame and making noises. The new kit does not come with this either. I had to take a standard tall extra puck (left hand side) they give you and grind it down to size then insert some rubber/silicone hose to fill the large centre opening and create the extruded nipple as the original one had (centre). I also used an AN fender washer of the appropriate outside dimension and bored the ID to work, then power coated it. (above the middle mount).

Body Mount-Hardware08.jpg


There's the radiator support mount installed.

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Then the upper portion just to put them loosely on so I know where they are.

Body Mount-Hardware10.jpg

Here's another one to be modified. These mounts reside next to the rear torque boxes on the chassis.

Body Mount-Hardware11.jpg


The kit gives you 4 of the same mushroom locking pucks (right hand side) of which you need to take 2 of them and grind off most of the mushroom locking section (second from right) and match the original (lower left). This make a ginormous mess. Then you have drill the centre hole all the way through for the steel pad insert as it's moulded over on the puck.


Body Mount-Hardware12.jpg


They go here and the body just rests on these, there are no bolts or additional hardware.


Body Mount-Hardware13.jpg


These mounts go above the rear spring tower and for once you can use the rubber pucks from the kit directly without having to modify them.


Body Mount-Hardware14.jpg


They go here and I just used a little make-shift spring to keep the bolts up and not flopping around without the body installed.


Body Mount-Hardware15.jpg


These go on the rear frame rails, but you still need to centre drill the rubber pucks to get the steel inserts in.


Body Mount-Hardware17.jpg


They go here and again there is no addition hardware, the body simply rests on these.


Body Mount-Hardware16.jpg


These are the rear most frame mounts. You can also use these rubber pucks as is from the kit.


Body Mount-Hardware20.jpg


Like so.


Body Mount-Hardware18.jpg


This is the hardware for the rear bumper brackets to frame.


Body Mount-Hardware19.jpg


You can see where the loose nut and bolt go and where the clipped nut and bolt go.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Bumper Bracket and Misc Hardware

Body Mount-Hardware21.jpg

These are the front apron frame retainers.

Body Mount-Hardware22.jpg

One gets mounted on this side.

Body Mount-Hardware23.jpg

And the other on this side.

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These are the rearward front bumper bracket hardware.

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These go here.

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These are the middle mount hardware of the front bumper bracket.

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These go here.

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This is the front adjustable hardware for the front bumper bracket.

Body Mount-Hardware30.jpg

Get's installed this way.

Body Mount-Hardware31.jpg

And that's the tedious and really boring body and bumper hardware.
;)


Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Original Engine Block, Crank and Transmission

Now that the chassis is more less ready for exhaust and fuel lines, it's time to send out the original 390 block and crank to the machine shop.

Body Mount-Hardware33.jpg

The plan since it's still not quite warm enough to start on the sheet metal work as I need the doors open for welding and grinding, I will start on the exhaust system and fuel lines.

But first here's the original dilapidated engine.

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I know the machinist will probably think, great you brought me another swamp find.

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The block and crank are now crated up and ready to be shipped to the machinist. In the meantime I brought out my bare 390 block from my '68 XL and will use that as a place holder and simply bolt the transmission to it and install a set of engine mounts and then lightly attach the new cylinder heads and headers and start on the exhaust, fuel lines and also finish the propshaft. Then when the original engine is done I can replace my old bare '68 block for the finished engine.

Engine-trans_7.jpg

The Flame-O-Matic C6 is yearning to go back to its home.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I see the edit portion of this website is still missing. Hard to go back fix ones own mistakes in posting.
 

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I see the edit portion of this website is still missing. Hard to go back fix ones own mistakes in posting.
DesertXL, I don't believe the edit portion of the site is missing. I've been able to edit my posts by clicking on the three vertical dots on the upper right corner of the box. When you click on that you should see "Edit" and "Report."
 

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Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
Oh crap, thank you 289Galaxie

I remember there being a separate "edit" when posting. Guess I need to open my peepers better :)

Again thank you for pointing that out I was able to correct the order of the above posts best as I could.
 

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I've got to stop reading for today - I have work to do!!

BUT

Enthralling reading DesertXL - and I'm only up to page 3!
 

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OK - QQ. You refer to the small-bearing rear axles that you gave away that came with the 352 cars, not the 390 or larger?
Where does the 'small bearing' sit - in the carrier or the pinion or on each axle inside the housing? The reason I ask is that my '63.5 car was originally a 352 car and now has a 390 and eventually will get a 427, so I'm wondering whether the 9 inch is going to be a weak link (if indeed it's still a small axle piece - and how do I tell?) at some stage and I need to start planning for that?

Great work...
 

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Discussion Starter #117
OK - QQ. You refer to the small-bearing rear axles that you gave away that came with the 352 cars, not the 390 or larger?
Where does the 'small bearing' sit - in the carrier or the pinion or on each axle inside the housing? The reason I ask is that my '63.5 car was originally a 352 car and now has a 390 and eventually will get a 427, so I'm wondering whether the 9 inch is going to be a weak link (if indeed it's still a small axle piece - and how do I tell?) at some stage and I need to start planning for that?

Great work...
Hello Jiffy,

The smaller bearing is in reference to the axle shaft bearing and withcidentally the axle shaft diameter. There's more to it and if you'll permit to ramble on I shall share what I've learned.

The small bearing Ford 9" axle are 28 splines and whilst I've read you can upgrade to 31 splines you have to use a special bearing that ends up not having much strength if you're really going all out on horsepower and traction.

The large bearing Ford 9" even on the 390 cars are still 28 spline axles that taper down in shaft diameter towards the splines but you easily upgrade these to 31 splines and use the same size large bearing that has more load rating.

Now the whole small bearing axles relating to 352 and smaller engines applies to 3rd gen full size (65-68). I dunno if that rule still applies to the 2nd generation full size Fords, you might want to do some research as I used the Master Parts Catalogue to confirm that about the 3rd gens.

There are also different size carrier bearings but I do believe those are more related to the spline count. Seems the 28 spline axles get the smaller bearings and the 31 spline axles (need new carrier obviously) get the larger bearings. There's all kinds of possibilities and I strongly encourage you buying that HP book I referenced earlier on Ford 9 inch rear ends as it does sort out some of the madness of Ford 9 inch rear ends.

Now from what I've compared to on a small and big bearing Ford 9 inch (relating to the 3rd gens) is that the axle housing is still the same size except for the bearing ends. Which, in theory, if you had a small bearing axle you could buy the large bearing ( I would strongly suggest the Torino style to easily add Ford Explorer disc brakes) and have the small bearing cups ground off and the new ones welded on. There is a jig (about several hundred dollars) you can buy to do this, but if you can find a shop with the jig it would be cheaper and whole lot easier to pay them to do the conversion.

I am sure you already know this, but if you're building up a Ford 9 inch and you have a 28 spline (small or large bearing) out of a car the third member case is probably NOT nodular iron and the weaker ordinary cast iron, so it pays to upgrade that as well.

I hope that helps a bit.

Cheers
 

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aha - ok, my take then (based on hope, intuition, ignorance and spending avoidance) leads me to think that if I leave the 28-spline axles in, then the bearings will not be particularly weaker like they would be if I had the 31-spline axles in this housing. I could upgrade to the 31-spline axles so that the axles would be stronger but then I'm transferring the strain to the (even) smaller bearings.

I'll not be racing this thing, and it's always likely to be traction limited, so the amount of stress I put on the 28-spline rear shouldn't worry it too much, and as the thing has literally JUST (like 50 miles ago) been rebuilt, it should be fine for street driving and if it breaks, it breaks.
 
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