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Discussion Starter #121
aha - ok, my take then (based on hope, intuition, ignorance and spending avoidance) leads me to think that if I leave the 28-spline axles in, then the bearings will not be particularly weaker like they would be if I had the 31-spline axles in this housing. I could upgrade to the 31-spline axles so that the axles would be stronger but then I'm transferring the strain to the (even) smaller bearings.

I'll not be racing this thing, and it's always likely to be traction limited, so the amount of stress I put on the 28-spline rear shouldn't worry it too much, and as the thing has literally JUST (like 50 miles ago) been rebuilt, it should be fine for street driving and if it breaks, it breaks.
Hello jiffy,

At the end of the day, it all comes down to maximum torque differential on components. You can put a high horsepower 427 with an automatic and regular width street tyres in your car with a light duty axle and it will probably live. The narrow street tyres will spin lowering the torque differential and parts live longer. Now if you put wide slicks on it and have a manual transmission, rev up the engine and dump the clutch things are going to go flying and it won't be the car. Under those circumstances the instantaneous torque differential on all the components is astronomical in that situation. The same is true with automatic transmission shift kits, put hard hitting shift kits in an automatic transmission and drive line life is greatly reduced.

It really helps to look at the big picture of the car and intended use on judging what should be upgraded.

Cheers
 

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I build transmissions (and sometimes differentials) for a living....

Guys with street cars and anywhere from 450 to 700 HP often ask me... "how much power can this thing handle?"

My standard answer... "if you run it at the track with slicks and MAKE IT HOOK you WILL break parts." sooner or later...

If you are just gonna play around on the street with street tires, and make a lot of smoke from said tires... it will probably last a long time.... and....

... it depends on how stupid you are behind the wheel.

ie; mash the throttle with no regard for consequences.... In other words... driving it like you stole it.

There is a very narrow line between driving a vehicle "hard" and making it live, and abuse causing broken parts.

Many vehicles/engines/transmissions/differentials can take "hard use/driving" for quite a while....
IF the guy behind the wheel has an understanding of the difference between simply running it hard or abusing it.

I find most guys that are not automotive techs, or have not done much actual work on cars, don't realize that their "style" of driving is actually abuse.

And... any form of racing could be considered abuse,
cuz you are required to beat on the machinery as hard as you can if you want to beat the other guy and win....
cuz you know he's gonna do that too, and to hell with the consequences.

Have fun out there. :)
 

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... Now if you put wide slicks on it and have a manual transmission, rev up the engine and dump the clutch things are going to go flying and it won't be the car...
This was one of the funnier things I've seen all week! And completely true. It never ceases to amaze me that people throw so much money at "high performance" or "bulletproof" parts and are shocked when something breaks after they do this a few times...or even once.Then they blame the manufacturer or fabricator. I've done this once (ok...maybe more than once), and acknowledged it was my own fault, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Cylinder Heads
Since aftermarket parts can be a bit dodgy on quality I have been trained (read as having to redo a bunch of work because of poor parts) to check new parts best I can before installing. It's sad when you have play QC on every new and rebuilt part you pay hard earned money for, but alas tis the way things are.

To start I opened the Edlebrock heads and disassembled and oh look what I found. This is why when Edelbrock says "ready to run out of the box" they are indeed full of crap.

heads_01.jpg

This is the first head I opened, the seats are rusty from sitting in a humid environment.

heads_02.jpg

But here's where trouble really lurks. Their single point valve grind isn't concentric. You can see the single lip from the seat fade away as it goes around the valve. Now the previous set of heads I bought suffered the same thing. It was so bad, in fact, when doing the static compression check on the engine not only could you hear the air leaking past the intake valve/seat on some you could actually feel the air flow through the intake.

Now last set of heads I just ponied up for a valve job on already expensive set of brand new heads but this time I opted for just a good ol valve lapping. I know some frown on the idea of valve lapping in modern times, but it's turning out to be 6 of one and half dozen of the other as far as options. If I have to sacrifice a tiny amount of flow around the intake valve in lieu of a lengthy and expensive wait to get these heads back, so be it.

heads_03.jpg


Lapped.

heads_04.jpg


Difference between sealing and non sealing.

heads_05.jpg


It also cleans the rust out of the seats, because you know; quality.

heads_06.jpg

All completed now the valves can seal and I can check the volume of the heads.

heads_07.jpg

But first I drilled and tapped the oil feed for the rockers and inserted a plug since it will be oiled through the push rods.
heads_08.jpg

Installed with a little Locktite.

heads_09.jpg

Pardon the mess but it's the set up for measuring the volume.

heads_10.jpg

Used Vaseline to act as a mild sealant for the plastic cover.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Cylinder Heads Continued

heads_11.jpg


For those wondering, the fluid is just 91% Isopropyl alcohol and green food colourant.

heads_12.jpg

Here's the results, well at least (credit where credit is due) Edelbrock fixed their combustion chamber volume as the last set was out of range of Edelbrocks specification. These are actually in spec. One is a little sloppy and high but still in range.

heads_13.jpg


Agh head number 2 I opened up and disassembled. This little gem was full and I do mean full of metal shavings right from the get go. Way to go Edelbrock QC..... :(
:(


Unfortunately it did suffer from the intake valve thing and rusty seats as the previous head so it received the same treatment and also had the oil port plugged to the rockers.

heads_14.jpg

This head however was much more consistent on volume though. :)
:)


With that the heads were reassembled and done with for the moment.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Propshaft and Exhaust
Since I plan on the original engine to be at the machine shop for about 2 months I need to install the propshaft and create the exhaust system. With that I had to get my bare spare 390 block out, lightly bolt on the cylinder heads and headers and attach the transmission and set them into place with new mounts.

Propshaft-Exhaust_1.jpg

I finally was able to use my new ceiling winch with a wireless remote system I put together for it. It actually lifted the bare block with complete and full of oil C6 up and into place on the chassis. It saved me from loads of extra work assembling the engine hoist and then putting it back away. Sometimes it's just the little things. Sometimes it's just nice to have some extra tools you contrive to make life easier. I also have a floor winch to pull in a dead vehicle to the centre bay from outside if need be.

For those curious, I just used Harbor Freight winches and some aftermarket remote controls and put them all into a generic electrical cabinet.

winch51.jpg

There's the ceiling winch.

winch_4.jpg

Control panel I put together. The remotes are just Velcro'd on the front panel for easy removal and storage plus you can still use the buttons on the front panel if you want.

winch_1.jpg

I bought the remote control transmitters and receivers the rest was bits and bobs I had laying around in the lab and threw it together.

winch_2.jpg

It's a little tight, but serviceable and still somewhat neatish.

winch_3.jpg

There's the aforementioned handy floor winch.

Sorry for the tangent, back to the galaxie.

Propshaft-Exhaust_2.jpg

Temporary engine like thing installed.

Propshaft-Exhaust_3.jpg

I will say this, those headers were 1150 dollars but you do get 1150 dollars worth of headers :)
:)
. Probably one of the last vestiges of true American craftsmanship and quality. Thank you FPA for providing these for sale it's a pleasure installing them.

Propshaft-Exhaust_4.jpg

With that I ordered everything I need to make this exhaust and also ordered some Moog Cardan joints for the propshaft. This portion is done till those parts arrive.

More to come...

Cheers
 

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VERY nice setup! (y)

That Weber intake is pretty nice too.
Is that what you're going to run on it?

I have the Hooker Super Comp headers for mine.
I'm sure they are going to be a bit harder to install than those FPA's.

Cheers!
 

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Amazing workshop facility and tools DXL........your write-ups are very detailed and your work is impeccable.......BRAVO!!(y)(y)

I always look forward to coming here just to see what COOL stuff you've been doing....keep up the GREAT work!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
VERY nice setup! (y)

That Weber intake is pretty nice too.
Is that what you're going to run on it?

I have the Hooker Super Comp headers for mine.
I'm sure they are going to be a bit harder to install than those FPA's.

Cheers!
Hello galaxiex,

Thank you for the kind words. I do not intend on using that intake on this car. I would like to use it on the '66 LTD 4 door hardtop with a homemade multiport fuel injection system I've contrived. This car will get the Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold and TBI. I've learned the hard way fuel injection is a must have at this altitude, heat and fuel quality available. No more carburetors.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Amazing workshop facility and tools DXL........your write-ups are very detailed and your work is impeccable.......BRAVO!!(y)(y)

I always look forward to coming here just to see what COOL stuff you've been doing....keep up the GREAT work!!:)
Hello Marauderjack,

That's really nice of you to say. I'm glad you like the content.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Propshaft and Cardan Joints

The proliferation of substandard parts is really a problem. I've noticed that some nefarious people like to buy the good parts from Rock Auto then return cheap parts for full credit. I fell victim to this as seen below.

Propshaft_1.jpg

I bought some Moog joints and I did get the one on the right in a Moog box. It's imperative to check over every single part now-a-days.

Propshaft_2.jpg


You can see the difference in some poorly made Cardan joint on the right and a genuine Moog. The letters MG will be embossed on the body.

Propshaft_3.jpg

That's a brand new yoke on the left and a used '68 yoke on the right. The original yoke was so ground up from the Fire-O-Matic C6 it was destroyed. I wanted to use the '68 as it had the harmonic damper on it, but it had a noticeable groove from seal wear. I opted to go with the new yoke instead.

Propshaft_4.jpg

The original propshaft, cleaned up nicely and painted it. One nice thing about Southwest cars, very little rust.

Propshaft_5.jpg

All assembled. All joints move smoothly.

Propshaft_6.jpg

I will say that Ford didn't skimp on the propshaft, it's a decent diameter and pretty heavy. Keep in mind when searching for a replacement, that the propshaft varies in length and also has different sized Cardan joints/ears depending on what size engine was in the car.

Plus I have park now. Sometimes you just have to celebrate the little victories.
:)


More to come
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Exhaust - Parts

In this I thought I'd cover the parts to be used, then I'll start on the construction of it all.

Exhaust_1.jpg

Starting from the left are the weld in stainless bungs for the evac system since this car isn't getting a PCV valve. Then 4 heavy duty clamps. These clamps are only to secure the pipes to the hangers and not actually crush pipes together. Next are the main exhaust hangers, they are GM style and in my opinion are easier to work with than the Ford ones. On the right of that are the O2 bungs and all the way to the right are the flanges for the system as I do not like using slip joints and crushing with a clamp.

Exhaust_2.jpg

The 2 mufflers and 2 resonators. The muffler is the quietest in the quietflow series from Walker and is still pretty noisy. I struggled with this aspect as I want the cars quiet but didn't want to sacrifice too much flow in doing it.

Exhaust_3.jpg


Exhaust_4.jpg


Exhaust_5.jpg

For the tail pipes I used this kit to save some time, it still doesn't fit perfect and needs some slicing, dicing and welding to fit properly.

Exhaust_6.jpg


Exhaust_7.jpg

These are the pipes to be used for the rest of the exhaust 0.075" aluminized heavy gauge pipe.

Exhaust_8.jpg

I am going to copy the exhaust I did on the '66 LTD, since this galaxie 500 XL is more or less a carbon copy. I wasn't thrilled on the noise level, but the engine has plenty of pep and low end torque.

In another thread I had these comparisons but I'll post them here again.

http://galaxieworks.com/sites/forum_videos/1966_LTD_exhaust_run.m4v

This is a really good comparison of the exhaust I plan to build and glass packs on other wise stock dual exhaust on a Z code 390 on the parts car '68 LTD.

http://galaxieworks.com/sites/forum_videos/1968_LTD_exhaust_run.m4v

Both short videos are from the same camera and no sound alterations. Turn up the bass for the best contrast between the two.

More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
FrankenExhaust
With all the who-ha going on I finally was able to make a little progress. It's lobster time!

Exhaust_01.jpg

First was to cut a boat load of the same slice. Each slice is so angled and measured in length that 5 pieces assembled yield a 90˚ elbow on a 4" radius.

Exhaust_04.jpg

Creating the X pipe.

Exhaust_05.jpg


Done

Exhaust_06.jpg

Fitting the front half of the system together. Tis a bit tedious. The '65-'66 with its centre hung parking brake cables was never meant to sport an X pipe. The space between the cables and the tail shaft is very small and precision is everything. Interestingly enough the '66 full size with the 352 did have a factory cross over pipe and dual exhaust, but it was a skinny pipe.

Exhaust_07.jpg

There's about 20 sticks of 1/16" TIG rod in this front portion. With 0.070/5" wall it's one stout and heavy piece.

Exhaust_08.jpg


It's not very elegant but it is very functional.
Exhaust_09.jpg

It will be ceramic coated when finished and running to reduce heating of nearby components.

In order to complete the rest of the exhaust I need the body temporarily bolted back on with a fuel tank.

However as a side note, the following pictures were meant as a joke since I was TIG welding my little heart out anyway.

Exhaust_02.jpg

Exhaust_03.jpg

A poor mans weight set. These are left over parts from the axle and fitting the rear disc brakes I was going to toss but made this as a joke more or less.

However there is a more interesting fact in cutting the splines off the shafts to join them into an automotive barbell. These are the 28 spline axle shafts from the heavy duty (large bearing) Ford 9" and my band saw sliced right through them like cheap steel. It was a little alarming at just how soft these old axles are/were.

I made some spare tyre mounts for the trailers and I used the old axle shafts from our 2004 Grand Marquis when it chowdered its rear axles in the 8.8. The band saw wouldn't cut through them, I had to use the chop saw with the metal cut off wheel to get through them and it took forever to do even that.

I'm glad I upgraded the axle shafts in this car, although I didn't in the '66 LTD and now I fear that might be on the list of things to do when it's road worthy.

Continued in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
FrankenExhaust
Next was to temporarily join the body back to the chassis.

Exhaust_10.jpg

Unbolt the body from the jig.

Exhaust_11.jpg

Exhaust_12.jpg

It's just something you don't see everyday.

Exhaust1_1.jpg

Align the chassis mounts with the body holes.

Exhaust_13.jpg

Mated
Exhaust_14.jpg

Now I can continue with fitting the exhaust.

Exhaust_15.jpg

It is catching up to the LTD. I'm probably the only idiot simultaneously tackling two body off frame refurbishments and modifications to mostly similar cars at home. It's been one heck of a learning curve, that's for sure.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #136
FrankExhaust

I got a little carried away and forgot about these parts.

Exhaust2_1.jpg

These are the two rear tail pipe hangers. That's the old material up top. I blasted and powder coated the rest of the bits.

Exhaust2_2.jpg

At least I didn't have to make these from scratch as I did on the LTD.

Exhaust2_3.jpg

Exhaust2_4.jpg

For the main exhaust hangers (at mufflers) I found the older GM hangers a much nicer solution. I was able to buy the female portion I just had to make the male portion to work and use the same holes in the frame as the factory ones.

I took 3/16" steel and arched it in the middle using some sketchy setup in the press and engaged safety squints and partly hid off to the side in case parts went flying under the intense pressure. Then I just used the torch and made the curve.

Exhaust2_5.jpg

Welded the mounting tabs on and powder coated. These are a direct copy off the LTD since this whole exhaust is a carbon copy.

Exhaust2_6.jpg

Ready for mufflers.

Now I can say, more to come.....

Cheers
 
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