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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a blower motor that has the stock look. I have only seen pictures of units sold and finding one that would look like the old one is challenging. Can one rebuild the old unit. The only thing wrong with the old one is a bit of noise when it first starts up.


Greg
 

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Buy a blower motor from Mustangs Unlimited.... If they don't have one, wassamatta with a little noise on startup? Probably just the brass bushing being dry, and a teency bit of surface rust.

If you want to do it yourself:
Take it apart and sand the outside of the wrapping, clean the copper bushings and the bushing contact point with 400 grit sand paper, lube the bushing with bearing grease, wipe off the copper and the bushings with some light WD-40 after sanding, sand the steel winding cage, then clean off the magnets, paint the cage, and re-assemble.

Viollah, no noise and fresh motor (so to speak)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was almost about to open it up, when common sense told me I may get it apart but putting those spring loaded brushes in may be a problem. Thanks for the tune up procedures, I may want to try that. I did find a site on EBAY with 1966 NOS motors.

Thanks
Greg
 

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The brushes are mounted on the lower housing and do not come out with the back of the motor. You can lube the back bushing easily but the wires that run from motor through the rear cover limit what you can easily do to get the rest of the motor apart. Use a 50/50 mix of white grease and engine oil additive (Power-Punch, Hylton's Hyper-lube, etc.) mixed thoroughly to lube the bushing. Grease will dry out and cause problems in a year or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On the motor that I am about to open up, just spinning the shaft creates a noise. This poor motor has more miles on it than most cars, considering it rains too much here. Can you buy new brushes for this motor.

Greg
 

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I just bought a new blower motor at a local (mom & pop) auto parts dealer. It was $62+ but they are available.
 

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I have a two speed motor on my 1966. While changing the sparkplugs, wrench slipped, bent over one wire then the whole wire fell off a month later on.

But the noise may be just the squirrel-case rubbing on something, like a dried leaf. After you get it out, you replace the motor with another, the noise may still be there. Feel around before going in and see if something is not touching the spinning impellers.

Wm.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Haven't had time to pull the motor apart yet. There are no visible marks that the cage has been rubbing and it only made a bit of noise on initial start up. I also noticed tat the two wire that come out of the grommet are bare. The after market motors at NAPA just don't look right. May have some success when I take it apart.

Thanks again
Greg
 

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Given the time and trouble it takes to R&R the heater assy, You just might want to replace the motor with a new one and not worry about it for the next 40 years. I highly recommend that when the heater assy is apart that you install a seal kit in it. Also, be sure to replace the heater hoses.
If you have more time then money you can patch up the old motor and get a few more years out of it.
The bushings in the motor are made of a pourous bronze. If you don't want to take the motor apart to oil it you can drill a small hole in the bulge in the center of the end cap that faces the engine and put a few drops of oil in the hole. The bushing will soak up the oil and stay lubricated for several years. A small bit of strip caulk will seal the hole and prevent water from getting in the motor. If you remove the squirrel cage off of the shaft you will be able to put a few drops of oil down the shaft and that bushing will also soak up the oil.
If the motor rattles, it is because there is too much end play in the shaft and the motor will need to be dis-assembled to correct this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello Again. I appreciate all the info from everyone. I just couldn't leave that old firewall insulation alone. It was first on my project and what a pain even with the heater assembly, passenger seat, and console out. Now that the insulation is in I will disassemble the motor. I do have a new seal kit for the heater box .

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pulled the motor apart, and in doing this in as slow a manner as possible broke the brush mount plate in two, oops!
The next problem is getting the armature to pull out of the housing end, seems the bushing that it is in is a ball type. Do I just pull a bit harder to get it out. The brushes have a bit more life, and the armature could use a cleaning to get old carbon removed.

Greg
 

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Pulled the motor apart, and in doing this in as slow a manner as possible broke the brush mount plate in two, oops!
The next problem is getting the armature to pull out of the housing end, seems the bushing that it is in is a ball type. Do I just pull a bit harder to get it out. The brushes have a bit more life, and the armature could use a cleaning to get old carbon removed.

Greg
The bushing went over the shaft to assemble the motor, so it should come out the same way.
First, be sure that all of the rust is off of the shaft. Best time to do this is before the motor is dis-assembled.
Loosen set screw and take squirrel cage off. hook motor to a battery so it is running. Take emery cloth or fine sandpaper and polish the shaft until it is shiney, then put some oil on it.
Hold the motor by the housing and gently tap the shaft downward with a plastic mallet till it comes out.
 
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