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Discussion Starter #1
I an stripping my block to send it to the machine shop, I think it will clean up with .030. What other suggestions do you have for this block. This is going to be a Street engine with limited 1/4 miles runs. It is going in a 64 Galaxie at full weight. I am home porting the stock heads now. I would like to run pump gas and plan to drive this a lot next year. What pistons should I use and whos rod bolts are the best for my engine.
 

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I Typicaly Like to have my Block Mains Line Honed and Decks "0" Decked.

Have Your Rotating Assembly Completed Before you Do any of the above, it will allow you to Get Exact Tolerances on your Main Brearings and Get your Deck Clearance where you want it. Zero Deck clearance helps with quench and makes the motor more detonation resistant and getting exact main tolerances is important in any performance application for bearing life.

I'm also assuming your already replaceing the Freeze Plugs and cam bearings.

Keith Black Has some decent Hyper's for street duty, keep the compression in the 9.5:1 Range. or their are also a few forged ones to choose from, Sealed Power, KB (Forged), Diamond and I believe Probe all have on the shelf forged ones too.

ARP makes some good Rod bolts too.
 

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Do the oiling mods on the block..Most main bearing holes don't align with the bearing inserts very well and need chamfered a bit to line up..Also the pump to filter hole can be enlarged and a 427 or 428 cobra jet oil filter adaptor has bigger passages than the standard FE motors..Some guys recommend restricting the oil to the rocker shafts but it might not be necessary with your build..
 

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I agree with both posts so far.

I would go Probe or Diamond forged piston, stay on the tight side of manufacturer wall clearance, .0045-.005 is what I run on Diamonds. I also like a little more ring gap than most, and extra on the second ring.

A straight main alignment, new bore with no taper, square and zero decked (or close, as long as clearance + gasket thickness is .055 or less I am not too fussy), and a light chamfer/match for any oil galley that needs it is all I do

A good set of main bolts (stock are just fine IMO, but ARP are good too), and I like to do an oil hole chamfer on the crank before its turned (but I dont always do that either) Rod bolts I'd go ARP, but FE rod bolts don't ever really to be an issue.

Slap a good baffled pan and a CJ windage tray, and the block will be good and strong.

Keep track of all your measurements and we can figure out exactly what the compression is too.
 

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Which heads and cam do you plan to run?

Those seem to have a lot of dish, but it really depends on the chamber and cam you have planned.

That 28cc dish, with a 73cc chamber, .005 in the hole, with a 1020 gasket (.040) is only 8.90:1

That of course assumes that you deck it to .005 below deck. Also stock heads are all over the place, and usually larger than you'd expect chamber-wise

It could be the right piston, but shoot some more data, there may be better.

For instance Probe makes a 16.9 cc dish, it may put you in a better place, but let us know. This can be done without breaking the bank, but there are lots of options depending on what combination of parts you decide to use
 

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Here's the specs for the KB hyper 428 piston I believe you're talking about...

Beck Racing KB Pistons Racing Engines Parts Chassis Machine Service

KB pistons specs
KB Performance Pistons

KB 428 pistons
KB Performance Pistons-FORD

Silvolite Pistons
Silv-O-Lite

Silvolite 428 pistons
Silvolite Pistons-FORD

This shows you everything you need to know about KB/Silvolite pistons. Personally, I believe you should get ahold of Barry Rabotnik at Survival Motorsports Home Page and inquire about a stroker kit. If you're buying new pistons, anyway, it might not be that much more to go ahead and get that big block to produce some extra torque while you're at it. His stuff comes with the everything checked out and ready to go. TONS of good references. Check him out! (even if you choose not to stroke it)

From the Survival site...

A .030 over 428 with 72cc heads and flat tops will
get you about 465 cubes and 11.2:1 compression.
Going to the dish pistons takes the compression
to a pump gas friendly 9.8:1


Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
C7AE A Heads are what I am using. I have new guides and hardened seats in them already. As soon and my shop is put back together ( just installed a 3rd overhead door and poured concrete for third bay) I am going to do some bowl work on them. XE274H or 280h sounds ok. I put a 280h in my 70 Mach 351C auto 20 years ago and car was a dog with stock converter. I ended up going to a stock blueprint cam to get my power back and dont want to go through that again. Machine shop called Thursday and want to know what pistons I was using. I guess they are slow and I will getting block faster than I was expecting. This just means I have time to decide on cam.
 

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I think you'd be better suited with a 17 cc dish with those heads.

That would put you around 9.7:1 but that is really assuming you have it decked to .005, so dont cheat, it will keep it from pinging with the tight quench and keep the torque up

The next step is the cam, if you want to keep torque up and rpm a little lower, I think the 270H would be a better choice, but same deal here, make sure you degree it. That 270H on 106 intake centerline would work pretty slick, but you dont want to guess where it is

The 280H or XE274H are great cams and I'd run one in a heart beat ( I do run one in my truck) but with your RPM limit, you may like the 270 better, and it will keep cylinder pressures a little higher
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The 280H or XE274H are great cams and I'd run one in a heart beat ( I do run one in my truck) but with your RPM limit, you may like the 270 better, and it will keep cylinder pressures a little higher

What do you use your truck for? Tow rig for race car?
 
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