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Hi All,

I'm new to the forum and was looking for some advice in regards to the radiators. I imported a 1967 Galaxie 390 fastback to Australia about a year ago and after collecting parts I'm in the process now of getting it on the road.

I'm looking at getting a 2/3 row aluminum radiator however none seem to be the same size as the one currently in my car. I have researched as much as I could and as far as I can tell its not a standard 67 radiator size...it seems to be one from a 1969-71 Galaxie 390/428. So I have 3 questions.

1. Is there any reason to revert back to the standard 67 390 size radiator (3" narrower core than I currently have)
2. Is there any reason not to change to an aluminum unit.
3. Has anyone had experience with Champion branded radiators.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Sounds like you have a giant radiator in there! What's wrong with it?
 

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Hi All,

So I have 3 questions.

1. Is there any reason to revert back to the standard 67 390 size radiator (3" narrower core than I currently have)

No unless you are fussy with the actual look and "correctness" If its providing cooling its doing its job.
2. Is there any reason not to change to an aluminum unit.

No and the its the same reason as above. Most aftermarkets are crossfllow style anjnyeays, and 'look' odd to me but it doesnt bother me either way.
3. Has anyone had experience with Champion branded radiators.

Have heard them used with great success. Sized correctly of course.


HTH,

Welcome to FMF






MRO......

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]
 

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Welcome to the Forums. :tup: +1 to everything MOF2U said. Note that aluminum and copper/brass are different construction. AL can have larger tubes (typically 1") than original-style C/B (typically 3/8 or 1/2"). So, take time to verify what you're buying, and realize that an AL 1"-tube single-row core is roughly equivalent to a standard 2-row original style C/B, and a 1"-tube 2-row AL is at least equivalent to a factory HP/AC 3 or 4-row C/B. It's not that one or the other is better - just that they're different. Be sure you ground your new radiator.

David
 

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I am in the process of looking at a Champion radiator for my 67 390 also. Their website does not show one that exactly matches the rad I pulled out. Mine looks the most like the small block radiator. It doesn't look anything like the radiator they say may fit a 65-67 big block car!

Does anyone have any other recommendations of sources for a 67 big block rad? I need a custom one, but I need somewhere to start.
 

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I used a Champion on my 67 when I swapped the 390 to a 460. It is shown as used in a Mustang, but it was the one with similar measurements, I think 24" wide. With the 450-500 HP 460 it runs at 180 degrees all day with no problem, even idling. I did have to modify the factory top and bottom mounts but it wasn't a big deal. You may even be able to reuse your old hoses, I couldn't since I went to the 460. Use the advanced search using my login name, I posted pictures back when. I got it from one of the ebay vendors along with dual electric fans.

PSIG, what is the purpose of grounding the radiator?
 

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PSIG, what is the purpose of grounding the radiator?
Galvanic corrosion, most commonly called electrolysis. It is stray electrical currents in your cooling system. All cooling systems have some level of electrical activity, if for no other reason than dissimilar metals. Different metals cause an electrical field to be generated, and any chemical imbalance in the system, or any poorly grounded electrical systems in the car just make it worse.

Electrolysis attacks the least noble metals in the system first. Generally aluminum is the least noble in the car, and so it is eaten-away most rapidly. Hve you seen the pitting around coolant passages in used aluminum intake manifolds? That's electrolysis in action. In your radiator, it's not only aluminum, but thin. Grounding takes the stray current and sends it to ground where it's trying to go anyway. For example - while it sounds really odd, one of the first signs of a bad engine ground cable is a leaking radiator or blown heater core.

To test for electrolysis, simply use a volt meter with the black probe to your battery (-) terminal, and the red probe dunked into the coolant in your radiator (don't touch metal - just coolant). Your meter will show a voltage. Anything over 0.1 volts (1/10th of a volt) is cause for concern, and the source of the voltage must be found and eliminated or minimized.

An automotive metals nobility list is here. Looking at that list, you can see why aircraft mechanics never use a pencil (graphite) to mark aluminum, as corrosion will occur in hours to days just from moisture in the air. It also shows why zinc and magnesium may also be used to protect the system, as they will corrode first instead of the aluminum. One of many sources of electrolysis info is here.

David
 

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Yes galvanic corrosion can be a problem with aluminum heads and intakes. I have Airflow Research heads on my bucket and the areas around the water inlet and outlets had been eaten by corrosion. There are sacrafical anodes you can get built into the radiator cap or to replace the drain plug at the bottom of your radiator. It also helps to use distilled water if you have aluminum heads or intakes. The galvanic reaction also forms calcium buildup that can block water passages in the block and heads. Last time I took off my heads several of the smaller holes were completely plugged. After I cleaned it out of the heads and block it was now overheating so I had the radiator flushed and it looked like snow coming out all over the floor. Yes my block and trans are grounded.

This is one place that has the anodes
E-Series E-0,1234567- E-8 For Common Marine Engines Anodes
 

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I am considering one of these 3-row Champion radiators for $190 for my 63.5. I thought I read somewhere that they allowed you to eliminate the surge tank? Is that the case and how so? Are these compatible with the stock water pump, etc?
 
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