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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently in the works on doing a t56 magnum swap for the old toploader. If anyone on here has done this swap a few tips would be great. However talking to just about every t56 magnum retailer the swap has not been done. Therefore i will be posting along the way pics and issues i encounter in case anyone else is interested in doing a 6 speed swap as i am. This car currently has a 429 and a 4 speed toploader with 4:11 gears and a 26.5 rear tire. I am using american powertrain to do the swap. I will be using a sfi bellhousing by quicktime, their white lightning shifter, a 1126 hp science friction ceramix clutch kit, hydramax hydraulic clutch master cylinder kit, and of course their t56 magnum with pro fit kit. Feedback is appreciated and any help or knowledge of others doing the swap is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitly a good article to keep in mind, when talking to american powertrain they are under the assumption very little will need done to the galaxie to fit the t56 magnum, however after looking at the fairlane they may be a little off, however, i do notice that the fairlane is quite a bit smaller and my trans hump looks a lot bigger in pictures, and according to the dimensions of the transmission i am only going to be a little bit taller, as they said i would need just a hammer to get it to fit, I hope they are right. As for the trans mount he went at it a little harder than i did, where the frame rails curve and head to the outer edges of the car and the trans mount braces come back, i made an extension that slides over those and place it where the t56 required it to be and then i can maintain the original trans crossmember, I will add photos like i said and hopefully this will help others in making a descision to swap to a more modern driveline, as i had issues finding parts for my toploader. Not sure if the 65 and 68 are different rails, i would have to assume since the 68 is a one year only body style and more closely fits with the 69 than the 67 but this should help others regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
here is where im starting from, picture of flywheels, left side is 184 tooth three lever and right is centerforce 184, old trans pic, driveshaft a few interior, 429 engine pic, etc enjoy!
 

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One word of caution, reinforce your firewall for their master cylinder. With their mounting bracket, your going to be putting 4 holes for mounting and 1 hole for the rod in a very small area. When I did mine, I didn't use their rear bracket (the one that goes on the inside of the firewall), instead I fabbed a reinforcement bracket that fit around the steering column to help distribute the pressure on the firewall. That is one weak area in thier design. As for your Gal, your correct, it has a substantially wider tunnel then the Fairlane. The main issue I had as far as width goes was from the shifter location back. I didn't have the option of relocating the engine to aid in driveline angles, so lifting the rear of the tranny was the only way I could go. As for the height, same problem, at the shifter location - back.
Good luck in your venture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I may be in luck on that issue as well since when measuring my stock hole from where the original clutch rod went thru the firewall happens to be where i will mount this hydraulic system. So i will mount this over the existing hole. I also measured to my hole in the floor from the rear of the engine and it was like 25.75 in and the rear location on the t56 is like 26 and something so they said their white lighting shifter will be able to compensate for this small difference which is great since i have a counsel and want to keep that all stock, hopefully with some luck like they said i wont have to change the tunnel, as for angles it seems that since this was set up for the four speed i should be pretty close, time will tell lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Heres where I am at so far, some of the parts I have recieved so far is the bellhousing, clutch kit, isolator, hydraulic throwout bearing and a bag of miscellanous stuff. I did have one issue so far and that was that the pilot bushing would not come out, i had a nice slide hammer and pilot bushing remover until it was so lodged it snapped the arms off the tool, so as I layed under the car contemplating which hammer to start wacking it with as I mumbeled obsentitys, I decided to try an old school way, I packed the center of the bushing full of grease to the point no more could go in, then with a large bolt that just filled the hole of the bushing, I gave that a few wacks in and the hydraulic force popped it right out........I dont think i will ever buy the tool again! Here are some picks of the items I recieved as well as one of the bellhousing on the back of the motor to get an idea of how close I will be to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, from what I have received, this is where I am currently at. I had to call them back and reorder a different (custom) pilot bearing. Out of the two sizes that ford uses....1.850 and 1.375, Mine ended up being 1.8305. Needless to say a 1.850 was a little too tight. The new one went right in. Then I installed the flywheel. Torqued it with loctite red to 80ft/lbs. Then I used the pilot tool, installed the clutch disc, installed the pressure plate with new grade 8 bolts/lockwashers and also used red loctite and torqued it to an end torque of 35 ft/lbs in the cross pattern slowly increasing torque. Next, I installed the bellhousing with new grade 8 bolts and lockwashers and loctite, quick time sends only the bolts for the lower portion of the flywheel where the bellhousing meets the dust shield, so if you plan on using new, the upper bolts for bell to block will need to be purchased. I also grabbed new bolts and lockwashers for the starter. I also mounted the hydraulic kit, installed the reservoir, used 1/4 steel and made a plate to mount it as the recessed hole where the clutch rod went through caused it to sit odd, so with the steel plate it bridged the gap and solved that issue and strengthened the fire wall. Hard to take quality pics of that so I left them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well all my hard work on the 429 may have been a waste, I was talking to some guy who had spent a fortune on a 460 he took a 76 thunderbird motor, added dove c ported heads with .020 decked, 2.25 intake 1.76 ss valves, 1.76 roller tip rockers, lunati 61604 camshaft .564 and .582 with a 110 lobe seperation and 106icl,roller tip rockers, looking in the cylinders it appears it has dome tops with valve reliefs, he claimed stock bottom end only 60k on it? Anyway it came with a dual inlet ram air system by spectre worth around 280 from kragen never used, a msd 6600 box never used, a new dui hei distributor, high torque mini starter, c6 with 3000 stall,one 850 holley dp, one 650 holley dp, one quadrajet(guess I get to choose which to use), all pulleys, rpm svo intake, chrome valve covers, he was just getting ready to check the push rod length(he already bought and installed standard) I picked up the engine for 1000 after a divorce is forcing him out of the house......I checked pushrods were riding toward the front(hydraulic lifters pre-primed and pumped up) so i ordered .060 undersize, also he was going to use electric fuel pump, so no eccentric, I ordered that as well. Ohh also had a new double roller timing set(non-retard unit) pre 72....I dont think that was bad for a grand! Heres some pics will be firing motor next week some time to see how it runs! Good deal or what?
 

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doesnt sound bad.. looks good. I'm kinda bias'd though because I run the 460 in my 65. I do like the 429 as well. I only hate buying engines from people because you really don't know if they knew what the heck they were doing when they put it together. I've seen some really bad engine work. Sorry, I am not trying to change your mind on it, I love the 460 plan. In the end it is your Dream and as long as you are happy with it, then Build BUILD BUILD it. :) and keep the pictures coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I guess that is always a possibilty. The heads though were built buy a shop, valve install, porting, hardened seats, etc....Since lower end is stock I dont have to worry about the bearings being installed correctly...Intake well if you put that on wrong I dont know how!...So i guess hardest would be camshaft and lifters.....The other good part is the guy is a mechanic for a auto repair center....Makes me a little more easy about it, and if it rattles or runs like **** then I will pull the heads, check em out, put them on my engine since my 429 has all new rotating and the heads on it are the crappy open chambers....and I will use his ignition, timing chain, intake, carb etc....At least its worth it in parts lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well this week is a week of progress, bought a comp cams checker tool 7.8-8.8 and used the permanant marker on the top of the valve stem after turning a hydraulic lifter into a solid lifter, I adjusted the rod until the valve stem had a narrow line in the center of the valve stem which is better than where it used to be with stock was toward the front, so too long of pushrods, which were stock at 8.550, with the tool it measured the screw out area at .56 + 7.8 starting length = 8.360 push rods, most come in incriments of 50 so I ordered comp cams magnum 8.350 push rods. Installed the new thermostat and gasket, installed carb and spacer on intake, all plugs on intake, installed an eccentric for the fuel pump, and have the engine swapped out from the 429 to the 460. I should be able to fire it up sometime this weekend if pushrods check out good. I added break in oil with high zddp to help the camshaft out. I also finally after 10 weeks recieved the transmission, it looks amazing and was really packaged well by tremec. Cant wait to install it, here are some pics of the new transmission/ engine installed in the galaxie...enjoy! Ohh and dont forget to check out how I made my engine mounts for this car, works great and you dont have to buy from crites, engine sits lower than crites and no modification needed to stock perches, all i did was took stock 460 mounts, cut off front part of the mount horseshoe part, then mocked engine in bay, got an approximate of were i wanted it to sit, measured back on two spots front back and top down on mount, drilled a 5/8 in hole with drill press and stuck a hardend steel grade 8 bolt in it, tack welded it to the mount on backside to keep bolt from turning when putting nut on, these have been on for 6 years with no problems, honestly it was cheapier and worked better after hearing problems with crites mounts...try it sometime!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
2 days ago was the moment of truth, got the engine ready to be fired up had the distributor installed close to where top dead center was, (this is the new motor i gave a grand for) started to crank when it went KAWAMM, and i was confused untill i realized the engine started to fire and kicked back against the stock starter and blew the gear right off the front of it, I guess it was a little too much compression/timing error and the stock one couldnt handle it so i slapped the high torque i had laying around and it took no **** and fired right up, minus a little valve lash needing re-adjusted after the first run it ran great! I do have two videos on my phone that as soon as i figure out how to transfer them from the phone to here i will post them, that cam also has a real mean and aggressive sound coupled with the ported heads and the 10.7-1 compression it really pumps some air out the pipes! I have her all timed at ten degrees all in by about 2800 rpms around 32 degrees, smooth throughout the bandwith and only about 10-11hg of vacuum on idle, but thats they highest it will go with that cam, Now that i know it runs amazing and I have re-fired it a few times, and during the first time I ran it for about 20-30 min to break the cam in, now I can get back to what this thread was started for! If anyone knows a way to get videos from phone to here let me know and i will post the videos....So back to the trans install, should have a new pilot bearing next week and will be installing that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok back at the transmission, i reset up all the parts I had on the 429, (flywheel, pilot, clutch kit, bellhousing) and I started to take my measurements on the throwout bearing. One issue others may run into and this is very noteworthy if you plan on doing a t56 magnum swap is that the HRB (hydraulic release bearing) that they may send will be too big for the application, If the flywheel you use is an inch thick, and you use their clutch kit, a quick time bellhousing only has a depth of 5.5 inches, after everything is installed this leaves about 1.76 inches in the bellhousing, then with the hrb installed on the transmission (stock size being 2.3) that will cause an interference with the levers on the pressure plate, it is recommended to have a space between the hrb and the fingers of about .080-.150. In my case american powertrain (Gray Fredrick) saved the day sending me a new thinner throwout, with it installed I have about .094 between the two. He is the guy to talk to about issues...he took most of the day after i told him of the issue mocking up flywheels/clutches to figure out which release bearing would work. He also second day aired it to me/no charge. Anyway next i put the transmission up into place and well im off by about a half inch into the tunnel on the floor, so I cut the tunnel just above where I was hitting and I plan on making a bolt in tunnel so if I need to do work to the trans I can get at it easy and I have a counsel anyway so nothing will be seen when looking in the car anyway.....One other issue i had was that the quicktime bellhousing had a hole that i assume their machine shop had a tap break in, as it was barely tapped and the next wasnt at all! So on the one i fixed it wit a tap, the other i just ran a bolt straight thru and put a nut on the back side. I am going to have to cut my exhaust off as the shop ran it close to the stock trans and now it is interfering with the crossmember, another note on the 68, it used a bolt that ran thru holding the mount on the crossmember , so i cut a boxed shaped hole out of the bottom and drilled two holes for the polyerethane mount. I will also have to extend the trans mount rails as they are too short and i have the fix already for those(planned on them being short) in the shape of two 2x2 angle iron with it bolted to the original rails. I will add picks later of progress but it should be on the road in about 2 weeks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
here is where you can watch breakin of the new camshaft, 1968 ford xl Breaking in the camshaft lunati 61604 460bbf 550hp - YouTube Engine wasnt yet timed in this video fully, I broke the cam late at night and just popped the distributor in at top dead center and she ran good enough to break the cam in at 2000-2500 for the 20 min....afterwards just took a quick video hear of the idle, my phone doesnt do it any justice and this was at just about 2 degrees before top dead center, later i adjusted it to 13 degrees where it is all in at about 2800 rpms and 34 degrees. still shakes the ground pretty well at idle! 1968 ford xl 460 first run 550hp - YouTube First video was the break in, i had it at the topside during the capture, second one here is the idle, keep in mind phone quality and of course timing not being set yet, gives you an idea though!!!! Sorry could only do youtube links, dont know how to set them to upload straight to this site....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So progress was made, i had a buddy that has a shop that works with aluminum so we made a trans tunnel cover and it came out really good, Later I got the rest of the transmission installed, hydraulic clutch bleed, and filled the transmission with dexron 3, the driveshaft arrived and was perfect fit as well. I did however have to make a spacer just as fabri did for his, but mine was because the solid shaft that holds the throwout bearing was slightly touching the clutch disc where the input shaft goes through making a small squealing sound, so after hearing that i shut it off immediatly and made a plate out of 1/4 t6060 aluminum and mounted it back together which gave me plenty of clearance then. Since i have been driving it around and still mostly in town but i have been writing down my mileage and have been pulling 18-20 out of it so far :eek:!!!! The car pulls really hard with the new engine as well and gets up to speed really fast. I will post a video some time of how smooth the transmission is throughout the gears. Also i took my reverse lockout and hooked it to the roll control button on the shifter, then i t-wired that to a toggle so that line locks still work but have to be switched on,(others connect theres to the brake light switch which is fine but alot of activation on the lockout) so I figured it worked well like that. everything is back together though and working really well! If anyone is considering the swap I highly recommend doing it!!!
 

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So progress was made, i had a buddy that has a shop that works with aluminum so we made a trans tunnel cover and it came out really good, Later I got the rest of the transmission installed, hydraulic clutch bleed, and filled the transmission with dexron 3, the driveshaft arrived and was perfect fit as well. I did however have to make a spacer just as fabri did for his, but mine was because the solid shaft that holds the throwout bearing was slightly touching the clutch disc where the input shaft goes through making a small squealing sound, so after hearing that i shut it off immediatly and made a plate out of 1/4 t6060 aluminum and mounted it back together which gave me plenty of clearance then. Since i have been driving it around and still mostly in town but i have been writing down my mileage and have been pulling 18-20 out of it so far :eek:!!!! The car pulls really hard with the new engine as well and gets up to speed really fast. I will post a video some time of how smooth the transmission is throughout the gears. Also i took my reverse lockout and hooked it to the roll control button on the shifter, then i t-wired that to a toggle so that line locks still work but have to be switched on,(others connect theres to the brake light switch which is fine but alot of activation on the lockout) so I figured it worked well like that. everything is back together though and working really well! If anyone is considering the swap I highly recommend doing it!!!
I am about to undertake this with a 67 galaxie... Just awaiting my parts delivery! Do you stand by your original thoughts on it? Is there anything you would do differently mate?
 
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