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Discussion Starter #41
Sorting It Out - Continued


48192



After the solder fest I checked the diodes one last time. All is well.


48193



To desolder/solder the stator wires onto the bridge, you need a high wattage gun.


48194



Checking the stator for shorts to the lamination's.


48195



To check for winding to winding short, you can use a growler (old school) or an inductance meter and check between phases.


48196



This RFI capacitor is good.


48197



This one is totally dead.


48198



The newer stator didn't have long enough leads to reach the other bridge rectifier so I had to extend them.


48199



First, strip off the varnish, then make a good mechanical crimp, then solder.


48200



Insulate.


48201



The bridge is prepped.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Sorting It Out - Continued


48202



Soldered to stator.


48203



Brushes are loaded and the stator and bridge is installed.


48204



A little fresh bearing grease in the rear bearing.


48205



Assembled.


48206



There's one good alternator from two of them and it's the 60 amp version in the early and appropriate 1G case style.


48207



To make a new harness, this is what I have. I do have a plan for the entire electrical system that would include fuses for the charging system as I don't care for fusible links, but that's a bit off into the future and for now I will use two inline fuses. One 80 amp for the main charge B+ lead and a 7.5 amp for the field and voltage regulator feed.


48208



This is all GXL wire and I shall make the harness tomorrow. This is where I left off.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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I recently rebuilt the 4100 out of my 7 Litre with the stock 428 engine. Wish you had posted this a few months ago it would have been a great help to me. But I will refer back to it later I'm sure so thanks for the detailed info you provided.

One question about the 4100 carbs. My car (and engine) was totally stock when I got it but the carb on my 428 was only the 1.08 version. Any idea as to Ford's logic for putting the 1.08 on my car? Was it due to the automatic trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I recently rebuilt the 4100 out of my 7 Litre with the stock 428 engine. Wish you had posted this a few months ago it would have been a great help to me. But I will refer back to it later I'm sure so thanks for the detailed info you provided.

One question about the 4100 carbs. My car (and engine) was totally stock when I got it but the carb on my 428 was only the 1.08 version. Any idea as to Ford's logic for putting the 1.08 on my car? Was it due to the automatic trans?
Hello 7 Litre,

The little digging I did on the 4100 suggests the 1.08 was for the small block. The 1.12 I have is the original to our 1966 galaxie 500 that came with a 352 and FX transmission. By 1966 the 352 was pretty anemic and in the full size Ford gave it the 4 jet carb and dual exhaust and it's still pretty lackluster with that.

If you do not have the entire history of your car, some previous owner in the past might have had carburetor trouble and did an exchange, where they bought a rebuilt and gave the old one as a core. But a 1.08 may have been given and it went unnoticed at the time since the carbs look the same.

Just a thought.

Cheers
 

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Hello 7 Litre,

The little digging I did on the 4100 suggests the 1.08 was for the small block. The 1.12 I have is the original to our 1966 galaxie 500 that came with a 352 and FX transmission. By 1966 the 352 was pretty anemic and in the full size Ford gave it the 4 jet carb and dual exhaust and it's still pretty lackluster with that.

If you do not have the entire history of your car, some previous owner in the past might have had carburetor trouble and did an exchange, where they bought a rebuilt and gave the old one as a core. But a 1.08 may have been given and it went unnoticed at the time since the carbs look the same.

Just a thought.

Cheers
Thanks XL, that was my thoughts as well. Looks like I'll be hunting for a 1.12 now.
 

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Hello 7 Litre,

The little digging I did on the 4100 suggests the 1.08 was for the small block. The 1.12 I have is the original to our 1966 galaxie 500 that came with a 352 and FX transmission. By 1966 the 352 was pretty anemic and in the full size Ford gave it the 4 jet carb and dual exhaust and it's still pretty lackluster with that.

If you do not have the entire history of your car, some previous owner in the past might have had carburetor trouble and did an exchange, where they bought a rebuilt and gave the old one as a core. But a 1.08 may have been given and it went unnoticed at the time since the carbs look the same.

Just a thought.

Cheers
After some digging of my own I've found this info (looks like mine is the original 1.08 carb after all).

"The 428 was introduced in 1966 on Galaxies and Thunderbirds. It is interesting that if you bought a 1966 Galaxie with a 352 cubic-inch V8, you got an Autolite 4100 (1.12” venturi) that was 600 cfm. If you bought either a 390 or a 428 in a Galaxie or T-Bird you got an Autolite 4100 (1.08” venturi) that was 480 cfm. Ford did this for emissions purposes. Certainly the 428 was a torque machine, and if you had enough carburetor for about 5,000 rpms, that was about as fast you needed to spin that engine anyway."

Anyway sorry about hijacking this rebuild thread ........... now back to our regularly scheduled program.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
After some digging of my own I've found this info (looks like mine is the original 1.08 carb after all).

"The 428 was introduced in 1966 on Galaxies and Thunderbirds. It is interesting that if you bought a 1966 Galaxie with a 352 cubic-inch V8, you got an Autolite 4100 (1.12” venturi) that was 600 cfm. If you bought either a 390 or a 428 in a Galaxie or T-Bird you got an Autolite 4100 (1.08” venturi) that was 480 cfm. Ford did this for emissions purposes. Certainly the 428 was a torque machine, and if you had enough carburetor for about 5,000 rpms, that was about as fast you needed to spin that engine anyway."

Anyway sorry about hijacking this rebuild thread ........... now back to our regularly scheduled program.
Hello 7 Litre,

Thank you for posting that. Logically it seems very counter intuitive that a low performance smaller displacement engine would get the larger carburetor whilst the larger displacement engines that might have a hint of more performance received the smaller carburetor. Even though the 428 in the full size wasn't a CJ it was a bored and stroked Z code 390 that was a higher static compression with a bit more agressive camshaft. I would think with those internals and dual exhaust a larger CFM carburetor would be a better choice. However the car makers were occasionally doing goofy things even back then, so it shouldn't come as a surprise.

There's even a larger 4100 than the 1.12 (I think it's 1.19) that was used on hi-po engines, but I understand those are pretty rare.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Sorting It All Out - Continued

Have done some more work to the XL.


48283



Making the harness for the alternator. The ends are crimped and soldered.


48284



Then heat shrink is used. The first layer is polyolefin with inner melt (internal glue that seals the connection). The second layer of heat shrink is again polyolefin or PVC if I have it in that size. PVC is a tough abrasion resistant heat shrink. My apologies for the blurry picture camera focused on the wire bundle instead.


48237



Coming together. I decided against the boots as they were either side ways or somewhat up-side-down. This could trap water and hold it against the terminal, so best to leave it open to air.


48238



The ground wire mimics the original. In this case I used 8 gauge for the eyelet on the alternator and that goes to the big eyelet where another 14 gauge black wire joins up and that back tracks to the regulator with the rest of the wires.


48239



I made mine in the spirit of the original '68 charging harness.


48240



Alternator mounting brackets and hardware.


48241



Here it is mounted and the wires are away from the block and can't abrade on it.


48242



I'll finish up the other end of the harness later as there are other things that need to be mended first.

The front dress is complete once more. I will say this '68 FE front dress is hokey. It's cumbersome and overly complicated and a bit on the cheap side. The '65/'66 FE front dress is so much nicer.

To segue onto the next item, one of these pulleys is not like the other..... The A/C pulley needs to have its bearing changed as even though it feels smooth I can hear the ball bearings moving around. That can't be good.


48244



To remove the centre bolt holding the clutch assembly onto the shaft of the York 210 you can apply the tool into the three holes in the clutch shoe. But if you don't have the tool, you can apply 12 volts to the clutch (assuming it works) and hold the outer pulley.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Sorting It All Out - Continued


48245



Or you can just wrap the belt around the pulley if the bolt is stubborn for more holding power.


48246



Once the centre bolt is out you can use a 5/8" coarse thread bolt to screw in and this will pop the clutch assembly off the shaft of the York.


48247



I'm pretty sure that oil seal was originally a bright reddish orange. But I digress. To remove first the clutch shoe has to be pressed out. With that remove the outside snap ring first then carefully press out.


48248



Next there is an inside spiral snap ring surrounding the bearing, remove that and press the bearing out, be careful as there is metal shield in front of the bearing so don't press on it, press on the inner race.


48250



Easy peasy.


48251



Yup, the grease is hard as a rock and that seal is cooked.


48252



New bearing part number.


48253



Whilst I was waiting for paint to dry I fixed this. This was hanging like this between the condenser and radiator and it's partially blocking air flow. The lack of detail and attention from the previous people working on this car is just appalling.


48254



The order to assemble is really simple. Only thing this time you can press on the outer race to install the bearing in the clutch hub and not the inner race. Don't forget to install the bearing shield first.


48255



Once pressed in, install the spiral snap ring, then on the clutch shoe slide the spacer down the snout and press that in and you want to support the inner race only on the bearing when pressing that in, let the hub float.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Sorting It All Out - Continued


48256



Install the snap ring and spin the clutch shoe, there should be no binding or rubbing and the bearing should be quiet and smooth.


48257



The clutch coil. This is the one with the jenky wire on it. I cut it close to the coil assembly and crimped a soldered a new piece of 14 gauge GXL to it, then heat shrink with inner melt polyolefin with inner melt and then a PVC heat shrink jacket over that for durability.


48258



The epoxy top seal was all cracked, so I applied a layer of RTV to keep moisture and oil out of the windings.


48259



I ran the wire out the side rather than the top as it looks neater.


48260



Again you can apply the clutch electrically and use the V-Belt to hold the pulley whilst tightening. I had to resort to holding the pulley with the V-Belt in my hand as I originally just put the belt on and tightened it and in trying to tighten the small bolt I was turning the engine over pretty easily. <rolling eyes> that engine is so worn out.


48261



At least the belts were newer and in good shape. This is the quick test, flex them in the other direction like so, if they split or show signs of cracks toss em. These are good.


48262



I cleaned all the sludge off with Pinesol. They almost look brand new.

Next I tackled the vacuum portion of the HVAC system as that is a royal mess.



48263



Just a recap but they, whoever they were, didn't use the original vacuum can and installed another smaller one. Good grief. How about we fix the original one and ditch the dodgy add-ons cluttering up this engine bay. After all it's a can there isn't too much that can go wrong.



48264



Usually this leak around the centre nipple cap. But this can was blowing bubbles around the top and bottom with a few PSI of air injected into it and sprayed with Windex. Here's the crack on the top side and it looks like someone already soldered another crack sometime in the past.



48265



Since all my soldering stuff was still on the bench it seemed rather fortuitous. Now since I sandblasted the steel I used regular stay clean PCB flux and solder. That will only work on really clean steel. Wire brushing will not clean it well enough. For a lesser clean prep you would have to use acid core solder.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Sorting It All Out - Continued


48266



Did the bottom and sandblasted again the whole thing to prep for paint.


48267



The can held this vacuum for 5 minutes. I'd say Mr. Coffee can is fixed and ready for use.


48268



So they ran the vacuum lines with the wiring harness and zip tied it to the holes reserved for the apron splash shields that are missing. I will route the vacuum lines between the outer wing and inner apron and get them out of sight. But first I need to fix the rest of the HVAC vacuum system. There are two noticeable vacuum leaks under the dash and vents do not switch fully when selecting a heat function as it blows out on the floor and dash registers.


48269



Since the engine is not ready for running, I attached my refrigerant vacuum pump to the HVAC supply line and let it run. Now before I used the electric pump I did use the hand pump and checked the coolant valve, it held vacuum so that's good, I checked the new looking vacuum servo on the mode door and that pulled in and held vacuum. I then tested the heating thermostat and it looked new. Well it's pretty obvious it's an NOS part as it works perfectly and these are always leaky on a used one as they need to be carefully taken apart and cleaned. So I was pleasantly surprised that all that is in good order. Now onto and into the dash area.


48270



There are three vacuum servos on the inside. I removed the glove box liner for access to the top two. The one on the left selects in heat mode only between the floor or defrost vents. Spring loaded default is floor. The one on the right works in conjunction with the one out of picture to select between fresh air and recirculate.


48271



The other one is here. These two servos are connected together and default spring loaded is recirc mode.


48272



Here's a better view. So I tested all three with the hand pump and this one leaks past 5-7" vacuum. This is one hissing sound I'm hearing.


48273



As a tangent this cracks me up, modern cars have between 2-3 dozen fuses. These 3rd gens have 5, just 5. Granted there are two circuit breakers in the headlamp switch but still....

Back to the matter at hand

Since the interior vacuum servos are not reproduced, going to have to raid my stash of 3rd gen factory A/C parts.


48274



All spares.


48275



Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Sorting It All Out - Continued


48276



First one I pillaged works a treat, holds vacuum.

So I replaced that and turned on the vacuum, now it's quiet on heat but on defrost I hear another leak right under the dash selector.


48277



The hose is just hard so I replaced it.


48278



Even though the selector wasn't leaking I smeared Red Rubber Grease around it and worked it with the vacuum full on. Any minute leaks will pull the grease in and help lube the selector and the Rubber Grease will not hurt rubber parts. Then wipe the excess off.

Now all the vents work as they should and no vacuum leaks. The coolant valve has full vacuum when selected full hot.


48279



The check valve in this can is MIA so I added a large capacity in line one.


48280



The can and hoses are installed and connected.


48281



Now I peeled the wiring back but HVAC lines are all connected and it looks much neater.


48282



All this wiring is extra crispy so it all needs to be replaced. I shall splice into the main section by the booster and bring out new wires. However instead running the main B+ feed, starter and ALT lamp wires across the firewall and down the apron I am going to run them with the headlamp harness in between the drivers side outer wing and apron then across the radiator support bulkhead and over to the battery and starter solenoid to make for a cleaner engine bay.

More to come...

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #55
More Engine Bay Madness

A little more work to this car. So the wiring harness needs to be replaced and when I saw wiring harness I mean everything. But for now I was able to trim it back to sections of wire that didn't break when bent 180 sharply. This was near the booster. Since there aren't really any wiring harness I could find for the '68 with options (air con) I am going to temporarily mend this one as a stop gap measure to keep the car from burning itself to the ground.


48346



I'm going to start with the main feed line bundle which includes the main B+ feed, the starter relay activate, "ALT" warning lamp, and ignition resistor bypass. I am going to delete the ignition resistor bypass wire as this is getting electronic ignition. Well technically it had electronic ignition originally, but then the crappy Pertronix died and I went back to a points distributor temporarily.


48347



These large crimp sleeves come in handy for large gauge wire. After crimping I soldered them.


48348



Then of course I used heat shrink.


48349



As a side note I straightened all the fins on the condenser.


48350



That main feed, "ALT" lamp and starter wire were taped and run across the header over to the battery area.


48351



Since that wire bundle was run, I could put the radiator back in.


48352



And the fan, shroud and then tighten the V belts.


48353



Now for the heater hoses I needed something to keep them together and suspended for a bit. I hate plastic zip ties, but until I change the heater core and remaining two hoses of which I'll use Adel clamps to support them I decided on a stainless zip tie. But to keep the sharp edge of the stainless from cutting into the hoses over time I used industrial grade PVC heat shrink. That stuff is really tough.


48354



Now you have to measure your loop before hand and cut the PVC to the correct length then heat shrink.


48355



Once you do that, fold over once to help lock it in place then fold the edge squarely over and crimp tightly with pliers. This rounds off the edge and you won't cut yourself on it. Unlike those crappy plastic ones.

Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #56
More Engine Bay Madness Continued

48356




For a zip tie it's not to bad like this. Being stainless it'll resist corrosion mostly and it will not harden and shatter like old cooked plastic zip ties (aka zap straps). They'll last a really long time.


48357




48358



New radiator cap. I guess Stant bought out Motorad. I ordered three of these and they all are the same.


48359



Overflow tube is connected. Just remember there is supposed to be no overflow tank. You simply do not fill the radiator up all the way. There is a mark on the tank to fill cold.


48360



Slowly coming together.


48361



The sheet metal screws holding the starter relay down were stripped so this was loose. Well there's a potential no crank problem. I just drilled for 1/4 and used stainless nuts and screws.


48362



Here's my protection for basically the entire car. One 80 amp MAXI for the cabin feed (whole car), another 80 amp MAXI for the main charge lead from the alternator to the battery. Now even though the alternator is 60 amps, since these fuses are thermal and running a 60 amp fuse whilst pulling close to 60 amps on a hot day in a hot engine compartment can make it open. So whilst 80 is more than ideally the alternator can put out, it will protect against reversed battery leads or a reversed jump start as when reversed the bridge in the alternator will act like a short and the 80 amp fuse should pop before the individuals diodes in the alternator do.

The smaller ATO is a 7.5 amp for the voltage regulator and field current.


48363



This is slowly coming together. However I noticed the starter main feed isn't supported by the clamp normally under the exhaust manifold.


48364




48365



Yup, that starter lead is just floating around between a moving control arm and a hot manifold. More crappy bodge jobs to come.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


48366



Fortunately I have spares but this is what the clamp should look like to secure the starter main feed wire. It attaches to the top engine mount bolt.


48367



Well crap it's not there but what's more disturbing is the lower bolt is MIA. To make matters worse the hole isn't lined up with the block on the lower hole. Just super....

48368



I just refinished one of the above clamps.


48369



I did eventually get the bracket installed and the lower bolt. I had to jack up the entire engine (loosening the fan shroud first) with a trans-jack and soft would under the oil pan. However once all three bolts were in the engine the mount stud was off on the perch slot. With that I had to loosen the transmission mount and cross member and then grab the tail shaft and pull it to the passenger side, then the engine mount lined up with the perch and simply tightened the transmission back down as there was room in the bolts holes back there to make that happen.

I can surmise when the previous owner took it in to have the transmission replaced with a slam gears-o-matic rebuild unit they replaced the engine mounts and then were too lazy and or incompetent to do the job right. This is exactly why I will not let anyone touch one of our vehicles.

Needless to say this was another 2 hours to sort out.


48370



Once the starter lead was routed correctly I started wiring this corner. Here I have the voltage regulator socket done and just need to add a connector for the RFI capacitor.


48371



Standard makes a bunch of different RFI caps. For a brief look, go to Rock Auto under the part number search tab, then type in " RC* " and select Standard as the manufacturer. You'll get a nice list of all the RFI caps Rock Auto sells.


48372



Here this corner is all wired up. Even though the voltage regulator is electronic and has the field flyback diode, it still switches the field on and off many times a second and that RFI cap is still needed to help reduce noise. It was missing on the original cluster of two voltage regulators. <rolling eyes>


48374



Installed the fuses. Since there was already a hole drilled for that idiotic second vacuum can I decided to capitalize on it and use an Adel clamp to hold the fuses. I tucked them under the wing as they are a bit out of place. But still easy enough to access should it be warranted.


48375



I can now leave a battery connected without too much fear of angry electron reprisal.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
More Engine Bay Madness Continued

Since now the starter, main feed, and charging system were all connected time to move onto another harness that needs attention. That is the HVAC harness.


48376



Whilst it should seem pretty straight forward to cut the bad wiring back to a less bad section, splice in new wiring and add connectors. It's not that simple because.......................


48377



All this was in one of the centre console compartments. Now this means the previous owner had a fetish about factory air con blower switches or the car was going through them at an alarming rate. I say it was the latter.

I know 3rd gens don't use a high speed blower relay like even some other old cars do. But I doubt it's a switch problem. What are the odds the blower is over current but not by a whole lot to blow the fuse? I'd wager a lot. It does work, albeit noisily.


48378



With that I decided to remove all the trouble makers to inspect. And yes that blower wheel is a bit hard to turn.


48379



That's a lot of lint on the blower resistor. You can see where it was just burning the stuff to close to it. Nice.....


48380



I didn't remove the cooling thermostat as I dare not risk rupturing the capillary tube as they are usually filled with refrigerant and once ruptured they need to be replaced. But I did check it and it is closed. Still doesn't mean it will regulate temperature correctly but it's a start.


48381



I walnut blasted the blower resistor. What a difference. Next to it is the clutch A/C mode switch. It opens the switch to shut off the compressor clutch in heat mode (floor or defrost).


48382



These really aren't sealed all that well and the contact can get grungy. Also the contacts on the wafer board can loosen to the terminals.


48383



I soldered the loose rivets so the clutch doesn't get intermittent.


48384



I walnut blasted the guts with the exception of the wafer board with contacts. That I sand blasted.


48385



Assembly.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


48386



I used synthetic grease and if the viscosity gets too thick I used a little Tri-Flow to thin it out.


48387




48388



Released and the switch is open.


48389



For my hands free picture taking fixture, when depressed the switch is closed.

Now onto the blower motor.


48391



Yuppers the blower motor is full of lint and the bushings have no lubricity left in them.


48392



Interestingly the commutator is really worn but the brushes have virtually no wear. They are semi-metallic brushes but they are way too hard for this application.


48396



Cut the commutator down to a smooth flat surface. The brushes really did a number on it.


48394



Installed the brush assembly and lubed the front bushing.


48395



Assembled the brushes.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


48397



I tested this with no blower wheel and it spun up very fast and had a good wind down. Much easier to turn by hand now.


48398



Cleaned and painted the blower wheel as well.


48399



The motor cooling hose was in surprisingly good shape. Very pliable.


48400




48401



Before putting all this back on I cleaned all the lint and other debris out of the plenum. Now I can wire this up.


48402



I reused all the connectors except the single post one. That was partially melted and then shattered into a million pieces trying to get it off the blower resistor. For new terminals I bought Packard/Delphi type 56 terminals. They click into the these housings.


48403



Above is the old and new body to engine ground. I think you can tell which is the old one. I did change the location of the body ground to the stud and nut for the brake lever assembly. It's a much tighter bond than a sheet metal screw.


48404



I finished up the HVAC and did the engine harness as well. I connected the "HOT', "COLD" and "OIL" lamps up and now they all work. I verified operation of the "HOT" lamp wiring at the connector as the "HOT" lamp may illuminate when cranking but that's just proves the bulb out, it does not prove the wiring, connector or sender. And that's the sender I did the temperature testing on, so I know when the "COLD" lamps goes out and when the "HOT" lamps lights temperature wise. But now I have an "OIL" lamp that works as it was inoperative.

For the ignition feed, I went under the dash and painstakingly disconnected the resistance wire and bypassed it with a 15 amp inline fuse to the ignition switch. Now the coil gets full B+. I also tapped off this with a 3 amp ATO fuse for the electric choke.


48405



I also made a stainless loop to connect the choke pull off air sample to the air horn fitting so it can draw filtered air in and not clog up the choke pull off. I also made a little nipple fitting for the ported vacuum.


48406



Now for an electronic ignition. So I bought a World Products 1976 FE Duraspark distributor, however the pickup coils on these are crappy, this one is already problematic. So I bought a WVE (Wells) brand pickup. I also have an adjustable vacuum advance and a timing curve kit.

Continued in next post.
 
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