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1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #221 (Edited)
Enter July 13th *spooky garage noises*
Peeking in the garage. I swear there's a masked creature in here. Oh, hell, it's just me in my welding helmet.

Carrying on:
Welded up one of the brackets:

Clamped down for riveting:

Now, the top brackets need to be worked on.

And here we are, ready to be mounted:

While I was dealing with the condenser I got to looking at a hot rod billet overflow for the radiator.
Picked this off ebay after seeing one at a local show and the guy told me about the Johnny Lawless...or some similar name. For the money it's a nice piece. Think it was a $45 buy.

I saw the cap, and it matched my Blue Thunder valve covers pretty closely.

So, here I have this open spot:

Down here? Hmmm. Not quite.

Caveman wheels spinning again.

Right here you're thinking oh good Lord, Eliteman76 has lost his freakin' marbles again. HACK HACK HACK. And I say...wait...just wait...

Let's just adjust this up...

And take that piece of heavy wall exhaust pipe...

And through the magic of editing, time lapse and taco bell affecting the brain:

Did I mention I'm a bit adverse to a lot of billet?

Last thing was to run a hose from the bottom of the tank to the radiator.

And end result:

More to follow.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #222 (Edited)
So, July 16th, I'm staring down the very long hood of my GTS into the engine bay of abyss and never ending AC insanity.

Test fitment time with my freshly made 90 degree pieces.

At the same time, enter the SD7 series Sanden compressor. Another fun fact, you can spin this thing to 7,000 rpm and she'll take it. Not that I shift...anywhere...near quite that on the street.

For what it's's really assembled here of USA and foreign parts.

More non-shiny parts:

One minor issue. The screws are nice, but they are bright shiny. nope.

Comparing the York to the Sanden.

Right here is where I get slightly fancy,using a vintage air line kit for the line on the "top" of the compressor. As I discovered it took a few different fittings and trial and error to get it right.

At this point, the big issue I had was the farmer grade unrated bolts used to mount the compressor to the Vintage Air 351c bracket.
For fitment I used these, then tossed for black oxide flanged nuts and bolts grade 8.

Because I am reusing some lines I decided I need to flush out the lines and the eval case really well.
The AC shop said specifically you want something with a flammable risk as when you vacuum out the system it will leave no trace residue which can cause issues.
AutoZone buy on this.

Fresh rings on everything:

Replacement expansion valve:

Here you do need to be careful how you route the line to not crimp or over bend it.
You will need to place it on the line going inside the evaporator case.

Never step is to wrap with the black tar insulation wrap.

Install the bulb as pictured:

Take your black tape, and start wrapping.

Now on to the hose install:

At this point I am taking my hoses and cutting off the factory ends for up by the compressor and the other lines.

I used painter's tape to mark my cuts.

And right about here is when I see this. Uh. Uh. SMFH.
*quietly reciting "this is hot rodding. figure a fix for this*

I stop, and take a mental break right about here...

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #223
Jumping around:
Either they referenced the wrong belt in the instructions or they had an engine using different pulleys.
I found I had to go with a Napa belt after like 4 trips. Not fun.

Back to the fan issue.
I thought I could take a washer and grind it, but I was like no, this isn't good, won't be balanced.
So I ended up going off to a machine shop, sketch and parts in hand to make a spacer.
$40 or so later I have my spacer.

I know. I know.
This says it all:

Oil info:

When lubing up o-rings I was instructed to use a mineral oil so no risk of damaging rings as I assembled fittings. Walgreens had this stuff, was a pain to find.
Plus side, brush on your dog's fur, makes it like a swauve shampoo commercial. Anyways...carrying on...

So I've got two chunks of steel. I needless to say over thought things and stopped myself. I'm like this should be aluminum.
Back to the local machine shop.
$45 later...

More to follow.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #224 (Edited)
OK, so continuing on:
Around July 21st, 2014:

Here is the POA eliminator installed, and wired up.

I wired this using the factory AC wiring; I re-routed a new wire from the factory spot at the quick disconnect, and ran it along the harness on the firewall, around to the low pressure switch.
Of note, there is an adjustment on this pressure switch, simply by using a #1 regular screw driver, and it's adjustable to change the cycling of the compressor.

Hoses installed:

At this point I pulled my old speedo cable which was melted...victim of the 2011 Powertour.

I reused an spare I got from Carl but still not working...time to replace this, or at least for when I get ready for Powertour 2015 this year...

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
AC Hose support bracket:

If you look here in this picture there is one thing I noticed that I didn't care for that was missing.
In this case, it was missing some sort of support bracket for the top hose.

The kit with the compressor fittings I used from vintage air, I bought specifically was this:
Vintage Air Proline TiteFit Hard Line Kits 35137-VUG-A

This kit I got just for the one line to the compressor because it was the closest I found available pre-bent to the shape I required.
Issue: lack of support. This is an aluminum and not a steel fitting so I decided I needed to support it.
I grabbed a piece of 3/16" angle iron and a piece of card stock.
I took and lightly trimmed and tapped with a hammer to get the shape I wanted.

After cutting, grinding, and a little spray paint:

One key thing, I took a few tries, was making sure the fitting to the service port allowed full access.

This was done pretty easily with basic tools, a file, and a couple bolts I had and two new hardware store rubber lined hose clamps.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
Fan spacer:

At this point, I've got all the lines, etc together. I need to get the Fan mounted back up.
Starting with a rough idea:

$45 from a local machine shop:

Installed, with new grade 8 washers:

I will say the only issue I had was the spacer required for the shaft. In hind sight I should have had him machine the hole to the pump shaft size w/o a spacer but I had it machined to the ID required for a snug fit.
I took the new fan clutch, fan, and my drawing to him for reference with the thickness I needed, which in this case was 1/2". There is plenty of space between the fan and the radiator, and the shroud only needed minor adjustment.

Now the fan clears the clutch cover, no more contact.

And, lastly, one thing I REALLY liked on the Vintage Air bracket, was how simple it is to adjust.
Use a 1" wrench on the hexed flats, and I forget off hand, I want to say it's a 3/4" bolt on the backside of the bracket.
For reference, here is the install instructions:

Now that the system is together, sealed, it's time to use the vacuum pump and draw the system down:

At this point, I've pulled a vacuum, it held...and I started the charge process.
In this case I wore Nitrile gloves and safety glassed. Basic precaution, you do not want any refrigerant on your skin or in your eyes!

I bought a case of R134a Dupont brand off ebay for around $54 for a 12 pack. Locally it's a joke, summer time the small cans are like $15-$19 a CAN.
I still have plenty to top off my other cars, etc.

I was trying to get a 30 pound jug but wasn't about to get around to buying one at Sam's club so I went the Ebay route. In the charge process, I was trying to upload a video but Photobucket is not uploading my videos for some reason at this time. Just something of the system pressures.

OK, got it! Click to play. - AC conversion 7-21-14 - charging video 1_zpsupyaaegk.mp4
As I mentioned before, I'm still having issues and I'm scratching my head to the issues. I plan on taking it into the AC shop and have them look into it as it's been a struggle for me.

After replacing the fan switch, I decided I was going to pull the dash apart and try going off the wiring suggestions for adding a relay into my fan circuit for high speed.
It didn't work, bit of a headache so I pulled a spare harness after cutting up the one in my dash, put it back together and called it good for now.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #227
Now, we did the trip to the show, and overall, the system performed ok. Not 100% as I had hoped but also considering when we got out at stops it was certainly working well.

One of my next things is getting the windows tinted. I know for a fact with this much greenhouse area these cars can benefit even if it's only a 35% tint level.
Now kids, if you all know me, I'm going 20%. Not limo tint level, but I want her looking like she's wearing shades.

Pictures to follow...thanks for following along my trip...

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #228
Switching gears. Fun stuff, noticing you have covered your entire car in black overspray from painting brackets, etc during my power steering conversion.

After recovering from realizing this was my own fault for spraying during Mother Nature's excessively windy Nebraska summer days...I got to work.
So, starting here:

I rolled the GTS out of the Garage, and proceeded to clean the car off.
to give an idea, look close at this image.

That is how the ENTIRE car was.
3...2...1...and yes my reaction:

Enter my personal automotive savior:

Mother's clay bar and detailer. This stuff absolutely works. Amazingly well. I used to clay cars when I did bodywork but man never really did it on my stuff.
Add on this stuff...I LOVE Turtle Wax Ice. My buddy Rick turned me onto this stuff.
The feel it leaves plus no residue. after 2-3 washes it's gone, but it's so easy to apply.

Priority is keeping the clay clean and using the detailer to act as a lubricant.
If you drop on the ground or hit a patch of crap...either flip or get a new bar.

Clean again!

side by side:

Love the shine from this stuff.

581 Posts
Nice read
Good job with the pics and explanations.

So---while you were working on clutch linkage issues, did you happen to replace the bushings in the pedal housing??

Made a hella difference in my Falcon
Now I just gotta get the shifter worked on---or replaced.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #230
Yeah, I had replaced them. Amazing considering they were the original bushings with 103K miles on them. They were worn a bit.
Made a difference in shifting.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #231
Well well how time's flown by. And I've been overly neglectful of updates due to life, liberty and questionable MPG.

I'll be getting back updating things a pinch.

Thanks for following along.:D

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #232
I'm going to be a little bit here and there. Sorry for the lack of being in order, but just trying to update things as I can.

This specific post, I'm getting things put back together for World of Wheels, for the 2015 Omaha show. Feb 28, 2015.

I'd been needing this piece for some time. Edelbrock part number 8059, throttle solenoid and bracket.

At the same time I replaced my PSI gauge on the hard line going to the trusty ole 1406 Performer carb. I went with Aeromotive for this because it's just nice to have something quality.

More to follow...

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #233
So, I'm going to step back in the way back machine.
For your basic 9" education:

Granted this is for an F series 9" but close enough.

I had back in 2012 lunched the driver's side rear wheel bearing on my 9".

This thing went from quiet to noisy in a hurry. Then to when felt like a bowling ball in a washing machine.
This was the original Ford wheel bearing to the car.
Now kids, note the lock retaining ring there above.

Hmmm, this reminds me. I still have these 3.10 gears sitting in the box. I really need to build a pumpkin with this and my 28 spline traclok...

These have been sitting here since 2013. ugh. I REALLY need to get my butt in gear!
So anyways...I know the 3.50 carrier has issues and needs attention. It was fun blasting around with deep gearing again but time to swap the highway 2.75 carrier back in.
For those curious, with the four speed it makes my type of Nebraska highway driving great, considering my top loader is a 1:1 no overdrive unit. Sucks for burnouts but great for rolling down the highway.

Plans are to swap in a TKO but $$$ are just not there right now.
So, here's the 2.75 chunk. Resting peacefully on the transjack.

I'm sitting here, it's The end of January 2015. Time to pull her apart!

Then THIS happens...

I know. Nebraska. February. Imagine that, snow.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #234
So sitting here under the GTS, staring at grease everywhere from the pinion nut backing off. *sigh*

Get the chunks swapped. In the process, the driver's side wheel bearing has some slop. The lockring from the Timken when bearing I used is to me noticeably smaller.
Now the part number is Timken RW207CCRA.
I use these as they are a Japanese made bearing. Which it seems most bearings are all Chinese made garbage.
Keep in mind, this bearing is also used in the 8.8" axle.
Note this for future reference concerning the press fit locking ring.

Here is a screen shot from O'rielly's Auto Parts, Masterpro. Timken is the same, except Masterpro bearings are made in China.

Anyone freaking care to explain the slight difference?

So I decided to get out my dial caliper and measure.

Right here, the OEM piece is just over .607" wide.
OD on the OEM is slightly over 2.23" inches

ID is just shy of 1.36" give or take. {sorry just saw this was the incorrect side scale here}

So, I figure ok, I'll just do this awesomely STUPID idea.
I had a couple spares, grab the nearest piece of pipe and use a BFT and a block of wood to love tap the lock in snug.

Then...wait for it...F it, I have a spare locking. I'll just double these up...

So I go to slide the axle in the housing...and it's not...quite fitting.

And yeah. I just screwed myself.

Hmmm. All smiles...all smiles...

Needless to say, I took the axle to the machine shop, and took my original press-fit lock ring and put a new bearing on and used the OEM lock ring.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #235
So, here I am, Early November 2015: The passenger side rear wheel bearing is making noise. Again, yes I should have replaced this wheel bearing when I swapped carriers but hindsight is 20/20.

Quickie video: {click on to play}

Lovely weather, it was 70 degrees at like 8 at night. Pull her in and await we go.

Using my trusty old OTC axle puller attachment to my slide hammer.

And right here is the comparison between the lock ring mean to be used with the 8.8 rear axle and factory 1972-1973 Lock ring.
I've said this before but have your machine shop re-use the locking that came factory. As a side note, this was an original Ford bearing with a 1972 Date code.

Main giveaway I had issue aside from a really crazy vibration at speed was gear oil on the inside of the tire as well.
275/50R17 Nitto tasty!

I still have my '76 rear housing that needs to be swapped in, but that's going to wait until I have my rear control arms.

Other side notes, parts used:
Axle seal for the small bearing 9" Felpro part#55035

Wheel bearing: Timken part# RW207CCRA. I use these as they are Japanese manufactured bearings.

Performance Tool Quart & Gallon fluid pump part# W1139.
Works GREAT for filling axles.

Good old fashioned 80w-90 gear oil.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #236
Date: April & May 2015
Part of my goal with my car has to been update things as time goes on. Be it small things or the larger picture. Key thing there is it's as time, budget or both are permitting.
As things have progressed with my Torino, there are areas I've had issues with.

One of my goals is to completely update to a serpentine drive. Unfortunately as much as I want the nice billet March belt drive Front Runner system, I can't mentally justify it despite seeing it in person on a 60's F series with a really nice Cleveland in it.

In comes and their line of American made {HUGE thing for me} billet product offering. They have a lot of really nice V belt pulleys if you are lacking the original V belt setup, or if you are dropping in a project engine and don't want to mess with hunting down junkyard parts. Parts are machined from 6061 Aluminum which from what I've read is a good grade of material.

Their main way of contact is via email, but I've spoken with one of the owners over the phone and he took time to answer my questions and discuss a few things on my install. They are on Facebook but not actively managing their page at this time.

After getting an alternator bracket kit for my 351 Cleveland, I was impressed upon opening the box. The parts were polished, protected, and pretty complete kit. My issues came from something related to me using my custom built 3G Alternator.
More on that in a bit.

Parts arrived via UPS. Woohoo!

Started the process by removing the factory pieces:

I neglected to get a picture of fresh out of the box {Yes, I know, I'm fired!} but good stuff!
I took my brackets and related parts to my powder coater for finishing.
Laying out on a piece of carpet on my bench, I laid things out.

Instructions are well detailed and in color.

For my setup, there is an adjuster I had to assemble. The rod ends are nice pieces. My issue came from using a 3G alternator, and this extension bracket is lacking just enough length to take care of it.
If you see below to the left, there is a small piece which is the "Alternator extension bracket" with two bolt holes and a banana shape. This piece ended up being a bit too short for my setup but currently I am still using it but I've got high RPM belt slippage issues over 3,500 RPM.

I'll be fixing this with a longer adjuster, and I had to do a home-made bracket that was longer than the two bolt hole "banana" bracket.
Now, to reinforce this mental image because I don't have an intelligent way of referring to it aside from calling it the banana bracket, I present this reference:

Here is the main bracket.

Here was the belt I was using with my original factory bracket and 3G alternator.

Pic of all three of my belts for reference for Water pump, Steering and AC along with the Alternator.

Now, I did deviate from the kit's hardware slightly as I wanted a couple fasteners that I wanted to upgrade based on my personal preference.

First pic of the bracket bolted to the pump. I wish the allen socket head cap bolts were black instead of silver but that can always be changed.

After bolting on the bracket to the engine, I reinstalled my alternator along with my larger diameter CJ alternator pulley.

I've assembled the tensioner turnbuckle assembly and the banana bracket to the turnbuckle.

Now, it's at this point the banana bracket is making me realize it's not long enough to clear around the 3G alternator case:

{I told you guys I was going to refer to it as the Banana bracket...}

OK, anyways carrying on...
I keep scrap chunks of steel plate around for various needs. This was the same thickness as the original material, I want to say like 5/16" plate. I traced out the original, and a pure guess on my part for additional length based off a cardboard template I made.

Cut down to side:

Now, for some clean-up grinding and test fitting:

After a couple days and trial and error, I found Napa belt# 25 9415 fit the bill.
This worked ok, but the belt is still not tensioned properly but I plan on getting a longer turn bucket assembly from CVF as they are really reasonably priced.

Long term goals for my car is to look into a full serpentine conversion and ditch the V belts.
For the money I think it's a hell of a buy.
Ford 351C, 351M and 400 Engine Serpentine Conversion Kit - Power Steering and Air Conditioning Applications

My only thing I'm debating is the power steering pump itself; The CVF kit is meant to be used with a Saginaw pump, with a stud on the back as their power steering bracket has a piece that bolts to the back of the pump and then bolts to the block.

One nice thing however is a billet pump housing for the original Ford Thompson style pump.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #237
So, Here's the recap of things...Powertour 2015. We're up in Madison, WI. I go to get on the autocross and my brakes seem ok.
Operative word there. I had noticed my Cleveland was running off, lumpy as hell and fine once I got rolling and the rpm's over 1,000 RPM.
Anyways I'm like the autocross looks like fun. I got in line. Creeping up. Finally it was my turn. By the time I finished my run, I was on manual brakes only, NO assist. Hugh hiss noise from inside the car.

I'm on the road...and I lost my power assist. Joy. Headache here was it was a 1973 Lincoln mark 4 booster, dual diaphragm type. I figured well, we are headed home after tomorrow, I'll just leave extra room and limp her home from the route once we near I-80...and take it easy.

No major scary deals, and we got home intact and no damage.
I'll start my picture fun with this tidbit:

Note, there is a difference in the stud placement for the install to the firewall. More on this later.

Now, I went through my local AutoZone. I will say these guys near my house GET IT. Which these days is a rare thing. I also dealt directly with the company they use, Power Brake Exchange, Inc out of California.

Can't say enough, I called and was texting back and forth about this with info and they helped fix my screw up on getting an incorrect booster. PBE can also take rare or impossible to find boosters and restore and rebuild them directly. Because of buying through AutoZone, I went back to AutoZone, but just wanted to say I had a good experience.

So, anyways, step into my office and follow along me here.

Here's the FIRST booster I got based off what I assumed was correct. Reference number 80070. (NOTE: NOT CORRECT for a Torino.)
This was after I sprayed primer, painted and cleared it.

While that was drying, I started the fun of pulling out the original booster.
During this process, I discovered what 5-10 years of your life and excess weight can do when you are trying to squeeze your ass under the dash. I conceded defeat, pulled the driver's bucket seat for easy laying on the floor.

The side by side...nothing seems first.

Note to self: Booster 80074 is what I thought was correct.
It's listed for a 75-76 Torino.

I'll need to review my records as honestly right now I'm fuzzy on the part number.
Anyways, back to things at hand. On the boosters, after the paint dried I tried fitting but one of the studs was too far out. So I got out a tape measure and checked:

Something else I never noticed before, was the booster rod that connects to the brake pedal.
Here was my original unit, off a '73 Lincoln.

Here was the rod off the incorrect booster:

ugh. I give. So I called up PBE, got a guy there, and I texted him pics after explaining what was going on. He said nope I got an incorrect booster. AutoZone let me return it w/o any issues despite it being painted.

Here's the correct replacement, and note the booster rod is correct!

Doing my best Darth Vader look.

Coated in Primer:

Due to the booster having a lot of pitting, i sprayed a few coats and sanded it down.

Primer coating #2

At this point, I've sanded and primed it 1-2 more times. Next came color:

Final step was clearing with 3-4 coats. oooohhhhh shiny!

*resist temptations to manhandle 4 hour old paint.

Here I am checking the pushrod length compared to my factory service manual, with the metal template I had made.

This template is outlined in the Ford Service manual for checking the brake booster rod length. There is a small threaded adjuster in the booster that is adjusted by hand and I've found on cars that have had brake issues it's handy to have. I don't use it often but when I need it, it makes things a snap to check.

Just about buttoned up. Note, the brake rod is just sitting pulled out a ways and this it not the normal position.

While I was buttoning up the brake install under dash, I noticed my bronze bushing for the clutch throwout rod had broken. I keep Hillman part number 882992 in one of my bins, something that Lowes has in stock.

This is the same bushing I use to repair Z bar bushings with:

Last thing left was to bolt on the master cylinder, then bleed the brakes.
With the help of my buddy Paul, he brought over a pneumatic bleeder. LOVE using this thing for cleaning out a vehicle of old brake fluid.

Just hook up to the bleeder screw, turn on the suction after being hooked to the air compressor and this things does it's job.

It helps having a skinny person slide under your car...he didn't want to wait to jack the car up and just slid right on under the GTS.

Quick video: (click to play)

Nice bonus is how great a pedal you get without the need to pump the pedal and use a helper!

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
So, here I am after Powertour in June 2015, and I was getting some leakage issues in my new front windshield that was installed less than 2 years ago. The long of the short, it wasn't installed properly, and the guy that did the job passed away and his business was closed.
I went to a local place that I trusted and they said well, worse case they may have to install a new front glass.
Long of the short they broke it...because the guys rushed and I got shafted for a new front glass. I've saved a number of these but yes it takes time...*inserting soapbox rant*
Moving on.
At this point I'm looking to tint the GTS. It's been on my list for a very long time, one of those details for me that makes a car.
So...I have trust issues in letting people work on the GTS. No clue why but I'm over protective of her.
I started by pulling the trim on the front and rear glass, along with pulling the dash pad.

I also proceeded to pull the door panels and the quarter interior panels.

I dropped her off to the shop, Metro Glass. They were going to pull and reset the front glass, and pull and reinstall the rear glass after tint.

I very rarely like leaving my GTS out of my close vicinity. I was told just about every customer that saw the car was like "wow can I take pictures?". I had some lady stop me after I pulled in the shop while they were replacing a broken door glass on a Lexus and was like "My husband and I had a Torino just like that when we first got married in the 80's, but I bet it was no where near as fast looking as yours! Damn 302 was a dog."

So anyways...2 days later I call and she's done but surprise the old front got broke pulling it, and you have some rust in the rear window frame after we pulled the glass.
*muting phone*

*collecting myself*
So, I had to cancel my tint appointment, brought the GTS Home.

I started by taping off things and covering the entire body.

Now, I had been dealing with some leakage between the gasket and the body, but as far as I can figure water got into places and sat there and it just rusted. I ground to bare steel, coated with POR15, and called it good. If I eventually have to come back in 10 years, pull the glass, grind out and weld in new metal, so be it.

I rescheduled with the tint shop, as my original tinter was unable to do my car. I used Hotrod PRD and Window Tinting. Very good shop, nice group of guys.

One of the reasons I had to pull the back glass was flat out the GTS Sportsroof doesn't make it possible to properly tint the back glass on the Torino, and have it look worth a damn. With the rake it's difficult if not impossible to properly install the tint and make it look good.
Sitting in their shop, I had company.

I picked up the GTS a few days later:

I got the 6" sunstrip on the top of the windshield. Such an awesome thing to have if you have spent any time at all behind the wheel of a Torino and just love how the sunvisiors leave gaps to be blinded during sunrise/sunset.

I had to leave the back glass at the tint shop over a weekend to allow the glass to be safely handled. I went over the following week, picked up the back glass and drove back to the glass shop, dropped off the GTS for two more days, and when i got the call she was done I was really happy once she was home.

Here's a couple shots from Christmas Eve 2015, first one is the sun strip.

The tint is 20% all around. Most states differ on allowable levels. In my case the front two are technically required to be 35% for Nebraska and 20% on the rear and back glass, but as this is not a daily driver I've not run into any issues with the tint granted, it's not like I went 5% limo tint. Visibility is good at night, and it's a big improvement for AC performance.

1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #239
So in July 2015 I had a pet peeve that bothered me: The driver's side sun visor.
I drive a lot with the GTS so I decided to fix a small deal that makes things a lot nicer.

When I would drive around, the factory sun visor would drop and move a bit if the windows are down and I'm going down the road, or some times with the glass up, I'd turn and the visor would be like this to my face:

I decided to fix that issue.

So, enter a visor clip Carl found me. This was better shape than the one in my car so I swapped.

I neglected to take pictures of the cutting process but I simply trimmed with my air body saw.
Cut and narrowed this down on one side, and used a soldiering iron and plastic weld rods from Menards to put it back together.
Now, had I hot plate and a teflon pan, I'd have just heated it up but I basically used a plastic welder/soldering iron to glue it back together:

I used the correct screw for the visor clip, clipped to the sun visor, and swung around to the body along the interior trim. I marked the spot with the screw, drilled the hole and screwed the clip on.

I need to get some SEM black trim paint and coat this, but I'm happy as it's a functional fix.


1,067 Posts
Discussion Starter #240
Minor headaches with my car occasionally get ignored but those pesky a functional horn button needed fixing.
So, I've got a rim blow wheel, with an in-op rim. I like the cruise setup and decided to use a '72 LTD center bar on my car. I still need to clean out and detail the horn bar but for the time being it's woodgrain until I clean up with aluminum.

This image was of the finished modification actually...but you don't notice the button.

So, lack of a functional horn was going to be fixed with a button located on the dash, or similar so I have a functional horn.
I had a microswitch laying around that I thought I could make functional.

I took and spliced into the factory horn wiring, and discovered I had a normally closed switch instead of a normally opened switch. Fun thing to realize at 1am!
After fumbling a bit, I disconnected the switch, looked around and found on Digikey of all places for the replacement $2.00 switch.
On the horn switch, I took and used a razor blade, trimmed out the foam for the switch to fit, and drilled a hole right below the crest on the horn bar.

It's a small basic deal I like, and until I change to a different aftermarket wheel, I'm pretty happy with it.
221 - 240 of 273 Posts