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1980’s 302 build ideas

355 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  crwalker54
Hey,
So I am going to pick up a 1980’s 302 just the block. I am posting here to get some ideas of a build. I’m looking for 300-325hp nothing super crazy. Gonna hook it up to a T5 (when I get around to buying one). I’ve been reading about 331 and 347 stokers. However, really getting past the rotating assembly parts is hard. Not really much on cam decisions,oil pickup/pump, and heads. I would like to switch out the rotating assembly for this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-94055be
And an Edelbrock performance top end kit. What are your thoughts?
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302/5L is a bread and butter setup. With better exhaust, decent aluminum heads, RPM or EFI intake and a good cam, you're already past your target in the upper 300s to over 400hp right there, without any stroker stuff. All stock block based, power all there below 6000 to make a nice street engine. If you want to put a stroker sticker on it (because no one will ever know you put any money there), fine, and at 347 then it will do the same stuff but closer to 5000 rpm, or even farther over your target at higher and less-friendly rpm ranges. See the trends and options?

I would suggest you back-up and re-look at your first important step in build planning - your goals list. A daily driver and a weekend warrior have very different goals. What fuel you will run and what the engine must accomplish. All decisions come from those, and much easier as they are focused on specific goals. You can't hit performance goals unless you say what they are. A HP level is rarely the way to specify those goals unless racing dynos or drafting marketing advertisements. ;)

[EDIT] Don't forget, the most important "part" in a good combination is tuning. The most expensive piano in the world works like crap until it is carefully tuned, and engines share that trait. Reserve some budget for that important part.
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302/5L is a bread and butter setup. With better exhaust, decent aluminum heads, RPM or EFI intake and a good cam, you're already past your target in the upper 300s to over 400hp right there, without any stroker stuff. All stock block based, power all there below 6000 to make a nice street engine. If you want to put a stroker sticker on it (because no one will ever know you put any money there), fine, and at 347 then it will do the same stuff but closer to 5000 rpm, or even farther over your target at higher and less-friendly rpm ranges. See the trends and options?

I would suggest you back-up and re-look at your first important step in build planning - your goals list. A daily driver and a weekend warrior have very different goals. What fuel you will run and what the engine must accomplish. All decisions come from those, and much easier as they are focused on specific goals. You can't hit performance goals unless you say what they are. A HP level is rarely the way to specify those goals unless racing dynos or drafting marketing advertisements. ;)

[EDIT] Don't forget, the most important "part" in a good combination is tuning. The most expensive piano in the world works like crap until it is carefully tuned, and engines share that trait. Reserve some budget for that important part.
Yea I see the trend. Well I found out that the guy also has a 67 289 for sale and I know with a 302 crank and rods you can make a 302 out of a 289. I think I may go that route because my build goal is to have a street/daily driver that I can take on the freeway. I am going sniper EFI, T5, 8.8 rear, 5 lugs, and coilovers. So far I have all but the engine and t5.
considering your post I may not build a stroker with a new rotating assembly. I may just got roller, nice cam, and aluminum heads.I think that’ll be closer to what I am trying to accomplish. What do you think?
Sounds like a goal and a start. (y) Even the 289 can overshoot your power numbers, so that's an option also, or run a stroker assembly with all stock parts, heads, cam, etc. Sure, it will be suffocated, but still make over your target with lots of grunt. Once you know how each thing contributes, you can juggle however you like that match each other to reach goals, or provide room for more later.

Now you get to compare build dimensions, clearances, chamber CCs, and all that fun stuff to let it all work together, in a good power band for your purposes, on your chosen fuel. There are build recipes and dyno videos all over the web, so sort through some of those, keeping in-mind most of them are pushing more for power numbers than more streetability. ;)
5
Sounds like a goal and a start. (y) Even the 289 can overshoot your power numbers, so that's an option also, or run a stroker assembly with all stock parts, heads, cam, etc. Sure, it will be suffocated, but still make over your target with lots of grunt. Once you know how each thing contributes, you can juggle however you like that match each other to reach goals, or provide room for more later.

Now you get to compare build dimensions, clearances, chamber CCs, and all that fun stuff to let it all work together, in a good power band for your purposes, on your chosen fuel. There are build recipes and dyno videos all over the web, so sort through some of those, keeping in-mind most of them are pushing more for power numbers than more streetability. ;)
Thank you for the insight! I just found a 302! Please give me your thought?
C8OE-6015A
Is it a 302? I am going tomorrow to look at it.
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Well, it's a C8 302 block made in '69, and a 2M 302 crank. Can't tell much more that's important from photos. Good luck!
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Well, it's a C8 302 block made in '69, and a 2M 302 crank. Can't tell much more that's important from photos. Good luck!
Thank you. that’s exactly what I wanted to hear. About to measure the bore when I see it today and if it’s untouched, I am going to buy it. Thanks again!
Just wire brush a piston top. They'll be stamped .020", .030" etc if over bored. Same as the rod/main bearings will have a number if over like .010". If a FoMoCo number, probably standard.
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I have 68 302 .40 over with the Edelbrock Power Pac (heads, carb, cam, manifold, etc...) 8.9 compression 313 HP on the dyno.
Not in the Mustang in my picture, that's a 427 small block 912HP naturally asperated.
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