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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will recieve the 408 Clevor This coming Friday, and my engine builder wants me to put 1000 miles stop & go driving on the new motor before I can let her rip....???? I'm gonna have to put a 3k RPM pill in my MSD, cause I won't be able to hold back. Why so long on break in? I figure you know in the first 30 seconds if it aint right. What are some opinions on this? I have well over 10k invested in this motor, so I guess I should play by the rules? Looks like no drag racing for me a the Nationals
.... at $5.00 a gallon 110 octane, I'll go broke trying to get 1k miles on it before the 20th of July!~ LOL

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<font color="blue">L8R,
Rick in Indy</font>
408 Clevor
Remember...Success is a Journey, Not a Destination



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FATNFAST on 6/18/06 12:13am ]</font>
 

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You know that this is one of the most disputed areas. Some say hammer it from the get-go, others insist on putting miles on it. I put maybe 2 or 3 miles on mine before I got allover it. BTW I have been working a ton lately is why I haven't been on Falcon's Nest.
 

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If its a roller motor using moly rings you should be broken in about 30 minutes after the engine is fired . If you are using chrome rings then you'll need a LOT more break in time if it ever fully seats the rings that is. Cast iron will break in as soon as its fired .
 

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i think its about machining variances and the such. i would go easy on it for at least 500mi. you need to give the bearings and bearing surfaces to loosen up.
 

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Personally I think 1000 is excessive. But, I would listen to your engine builder. He built it and that is who you are going to have to deal with if you do develop a problem. Wish you the best with the new engine.
 

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1000 is a bit muh, alot of guys like to vary throttle, between some stog and go traffic and then hammering it here and there to seat rings, its really all about ring seat. If any machining tolerances are off thats gonna show up immediately, such as bearing clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What if you just shifted SUPER early, accelerate,and bogged the motor making it work harder, therefore loading up the rings quicker? That's what this is all about anyway , right? Loading the rings? 200 miles doing that? hehe... My motor is a roller.

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<font color="blue">L8R,
Rick in Indy</font>
408 Clevor
Remember...Success is a Journey, Not a Destination



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FATNFAST on 6/19/06 8:34am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FATNFAST on 6/19/06 8:36am ]</font>
 

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Good thing pro stockers dont have to go 1K for proper break-in!!
Even in roller applications, you need to run the engine at 2200-2500 for 20-25 min. to help EVERYTHING move around but mostly to break the springs in and such.
After that, a few trips around the block to see if any leaks appear and then let her rip. But that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
we will run oil it only at first to make sure water doesn't try to sneak in any where its not suppose to. letting the oil get where it needs to be FIRST.
 

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On 2006-06-18 17:42, ou812 wrote:
Good thing pro stockers dont have to go 1K for proper break-in!!
Even in roller applications, you need to run the engine at 2200-2500 for 20-25 min. to help EVERYTHING move around but mostly to break the springs in and such.
After that, a few trips around the block to see if any leaks appear and then let her rip. But that's just me.
Im with this guy. Putting a g on it no way.
 

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Yup I run them for bout 1/2 hour at 2,500 rpm varying a little, then I go out on a back road and speed up and slow down letting the motor pull it down about 10 times in 1-2-3 gear between about 1,500rpm to 3,000 rpm to work the rings some. Then I stop and look for leaks, make sure its full of antifreeze and such, turn around and hammer it to the redline and bring it home. Check it over again and drive it the way it's gonna get driven. If it's put together right it shouldn't need hardly any time to break in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok...cool! So, you have ran several new motors like this, with no damage during break in period? What I mean is...no damage to the motor using this break in technique? Just gets the rings flexing both directions real good and it's good to go?
 

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Yup, even completely stock ones get this treatment. I have a 4.0 in a 2000 ranger with 25,000 miles since rebuild, and a 96 bonneville with a 3.8 with 40,000 since rebuild and neither of them leak or use a drop of oil or antifreeze. And run beautiful. Our burnout contest motor (460) got about 45 minutes on it and then it got held at 5-6,000 rpm for minutes at at time with all stock longblock, even had some rust in the cylinders that left pits when I honed it. The harder we abused it, the less it smoked, and it still runs perfect today, it's been 2-3years since I built that one and it's going into a trailrider truck because the guy that owns it says that it's to good of an engine to use for that. He has about $500 into it. So go do the cam breakin, seat the rings. After that I drive them pretty much the way they're going to be used, and I always change oil right about or a little before 200 miles, and then cut open and inspect the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok...I told the guys at my speedshop my builder wanted 1000 miles break in, an they said hell if you break a race motor in for 1000 miles its done!....and time to rebuild! They also said you even have a roller cam, they don't even need broke in really. They told me to start it check for leaks and run it like I want.
 

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I put seven 1/8 mile passes on my new motor....and it only had 30 miles on it.

Builder was only concerned with the 25 minute cam burn in. Then it was around the block. We were supposed to dyno tune it, but he did not want to do that without 20 miles on the motor. And since I had to go...the dyno tune had to wait. But I'll get it shortly
 

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My 408 was broken in on an engine dyno, they did a short breakin procedure and tuned it. It had less than 30 minutes run ti
me, including the breakin before some WOT runs.

It went something like this.

warm up and check for leaks

some part throttle accelerations letting the engine slow itself back down. did some from just above idle to 4000 or so then from like 2500 to 6000.
Did that a bunch of times mixing it up a bit. We kept a very close eye on oil and water temp.
Then we shut it down and changed the oil and filter, checked the filter for debris and adjusted the valves.
Fired it back up, brief warm up, and let it rip.

My understanding is you want to break in the rings before the cylinder walls are worn smooth. There's not much time to do that. With moly rings it's probably pretty hard to screw it up.



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Eric
La Habra, CA
--------------------
1964 Falcon Club Wagon - Bone Stock
1965 Econoline
408w AFR205's XR286R Victor Jr AED 950 602hp at 6400
C4 reverse manual with brake. 325/50R15 MT 4.11's 9"


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: etcetera on 7/4/06 7:05am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's Wild! I just found that site last night. I WILL have 114 miles or so on my motor before it hits the dragstip on July 20th. I think I'm going with the "Run it Hard" technique. We'll see how it goes!
 
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