I agree extech. It actually looks like it was painted to look new. Any suggestions? Replace/rebuild. I'm definitely not afraid of a challenge. I don't have the deepest pockets but I left some "wiggle room" in case I would have to buy some new bits and pieces.
I agree about the rebuild. You might contact Mike's Carburetor Parts or other carburetor shops. They may have the choke pieces you need, and you could save on shipping by buying the rebuild kit at the same time.
So Reap, you got her cranking okay> Got her running yet?
Don't let that carb linkage slow you down; most carburetor parts are to control the choke valve on top, so you can bypass the trouble parts by holding the valve closed or nearly closed. That is the cold starting position.
Of course you'll need some gas. Open the carburetor lid and pour some in the float bowl, stop at one inch from the top of the bowl.
Don't let the Ignition starter or NSS slow you down either. If those are busted you can power the coil with a single wire from the +battery to the +terminal on the coil (see diagram). A spoonful of gas down the throat of the carburetor, then jump the starter, if necessary. The battery will power the coil directly and the coil can power the plugs and BAM, with a few pumps of the throttle rod the engine is running,
Don't leave that wire connecting the battery to the coil on for more than 5 minutes, coil might overheat.
Then report back.
Hey puttster, thanks for the encouraging words. The test light I ordered didn't come in today. So I was not able to check the wire leading to the S post on the solenoid while someone turned the key as you had mentioned. But curiosity killed the cat so once everything was back together I tried the key and got nothing just and oil and gen light. There doesn't appear to be any breaks in the wires leading to the solenoid(still not ruling it out) So that leaves a possible NSS or ignition starter. I will look at your diagram and attempt it tomorrow. I am on "honey do list'" duty tomorrow so maybe give it a go in the middle of the week or potentially next week. On a side note I got in the car this afternoon and put my foot on the brake pedal and it had resistance at first but all of a sudden the pedal went to the floor and now I have a puddle of brake fluid under the car. So that is something else for me to start looking at. But I want to make sure to tackle one thing at a time. So I will report back once I get it to run. Oh on another note extech thank you for the recommendation for a shop manual I ordered one today. Thanks again everyone for everything. This is quite the community, I'm glad to be a part of it.
Hey Puttster, so the test light came in and I had the wife try to start it with the test light clipped to the negative battery terminal and I didn't get any reading at all. So does that mean that its the NSS? With that being said I decided to check the battery and it was only putting out 9.4 volts which I imagine could be a big contribution to my problem. I feel ridiculous for not check that earlier. So back to your diagram. So I will connect a wire from the positive terminal to the "s" post on the solenoid. Will attaching that wire attempt to crank the engine over, or is there another step beyond that? Thanks in advance everyone.
So a lot of updates. I wasn't able to get the car to start by the key, even when moving the shift lever up and down so I looked at putts' diagram and attach the wire as stated and it started(really rough sounding but started). So I was able to shut it off via the key (I don't know if that means something). So I believe my battery pushing such a low voltage(9.4) maybe contributing to my issues(or at least not helping). So I will be replacing it with in the next couple of days. So next issue, a few posts ago extech mention the carb looks like it's in bad shape, so I took it off to inspect. Now on to the disgusting carburetor, the back two butterfly valves (closest to the firewall) were completely seized shut I had to saturate the bottom end of the carb in wd40 for a night just to be able to move them by lightly tapping the bottom end of the flap with a delrin punch and a small dead-blow hammer. I am still waiting on my shop manual so I haven't taken much apart yet but enough to expose the floats and the inside of the carburetor. So I am ordering a repair kit from Mike's Carb and I found the fast idle arm for $6.00 on ebay to repair the broken one. So with all of that being said, a few questions. The fact I got the car to start by attaching putts' wire(between +terminal and "S" post on solenoid) does that narrow down on why the car will not start by key. I only assume that because the shifter read park and it didn't move an inch when the car started up so I figure the NSS is functioning correctly(please correct me if I'm wrong). And second is there any point where a carb becomes not worth it to fix, and I should start looking at after market. I will post some pics in another post. Thanks again for any/all help in this matter
I agree, NSS is now the prime suspect. It is on the red "start" wire and likely blocking the power from getting to the "s" terminal on the solenoid.
You can test this theory8 by getting a short jumper wire maybe with alligator clips on each end and bypassing the NSS. Then, if it still won't start with the key, consider a new keyed ignition cylinder.
Instead of a new battery consider a charger. You can't keep buying a new battery every time it runs down.
Yes, a Battery Tender is a good investment on an old car that doesn't get driven much - you can leave them plugged in without fear of overcharging the battery. With sitting for a long time with low charge, the battery may well be toast, but might want to see if it will charge up some and if so, bring it to an auto parts store for testing. (If it's low on charge to begin with, they can't test it until charging it up so you might as well save some time charging it at home.)
Yes, as I recall the secondary lock out is a plastic/nylon pin.
It snaps really easy.
I had a 65 Mustang notch back with the 225 Hp "A" code 289 and Autolite 4100.
I accidentally broke that pin and after that, whenever I was into the throttle hard enough to open the secondaries, they would "stick" open when I backed off the gas.
That pin does double duty by also pushing the secondaries closed when you back off the throttle.
My "16 year old kid" solution was to push the clutch in and turn the key off while still rolling.
That allowed the secondaries to close and I would then turn the key back on and release the clutch to re-start the engine.
Wish I still had that car.
That carb is pretty corroded, but I'm certain you can rebuild it. I would get some Berryman's Chem-Dip and soak the whole thing for a few days, then take it out, rinse it all out then tear it down and soak it again. You want to be careful removing the throttle rods with corrosion on them, since they may score the cast carb body and potentially result in a vacuum leak source. That's why I think you'll want to soak it first for a while to soften all that up. Also, you should pull out the welch plugs from the runner between the two fuel bowls and the tops of the venturi assemblies. This is the only way to truly clean out these important passages. Use a guitar string to get into the air bleeds and fuel passages of the venturis. The welch plugs are 23/64", by the way. I don't think Mike's stocks that size unfortunately. Good luck!
I agree stay with the 4100. Cleaning wise 1. make sure the little holes down by the throttle plates are cleared. 2. When you hit the throttle make sure you get two good streams of gas into the boosters. 3. Get an electric choke.