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Discussion Starter #1
So I gasketed my engine and upon reassembly I can get it to turn over I have timing set but I'm not getting fuel to the carburetor and solutions and suggestions welcomed please help me get this pony back on the road
 

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Being a carb, I'm assuing it has a manual pump? Did you change anything on the engine? I believe the distributor drive has fuel pump cam lobe. Are you still using the same old style drive with the lobe? If you remove the fuel lines, can you feel the pump sucking?

If the pump seems to work, it could either be a clogged fuel filter or a clogged/kinked/broken line. Take an air hose and blow through the fuel line from the engine back to the tank. You should hear it bubbling in the gas tank without a whole lot of resistance. If it feels strained, look for kinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a manual pump on a 78 mustang ii it has a weak suction and gas is in the line to it I'll blow air into it to see if I have a kink somewhere
 

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It is a manual pump on a 78 mustang ii it has a weak suction and gas is in the line to it I'll blow air into it to see if I have a kink somewhere
Pretty simple system. The pickup in the tank has a filter on it, which can get clogged. Blowing air from the front to the back can take care of that. The line can have a kink, clog or obstruction. Blowing air front to back will tell you a lot in that regard. Pump can be bad, or fuel filter clogged. Not much else to go wrong. Sometimes, the fuel line from the tank to the pump can have an air leak that allows the pump to suck air instead of fuel... so that's something else to look out for.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The pump was bad but now my distributor keeps popping out of the hole and we can't get any bang
 

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The pump was bad but now my distributor keeps popping out of the hole and we can't get any bang
The distributor not only has to engage the gear, but also the OIL PUMP SHAFT. The oil pump shaft slides into the very bottom of the distributor. You'll need to turn the engine back and forth until it lines up and goes in all the way. You'll know when it's fully seated, as it will go in all the way to the bottom of the housing.

Do NOT run it without the oil pump drive engaged! If you look down in there with a flashlight, you'll see it.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also side question would any other 2.3l bolt up to this engine bay so I can just do a total face lift and bring the car to the 21 century
 

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Also side question would any other 2.3l bolt up to this engine bay so I can just do a total face lift and bring the car to the 21 century
Yes, newer ones will bolt up, but many won't be set up for a mechanical fuel pump. I swapped a 1990 mustang engine into my Ranger a long time ago. It was EFI, but still had the boss for the mechanical pump. I just took off the EFI, put the carb manifold on, added the fuel pump, and was good to go. This being said, you could always add an electric pump.

Some newer engines won't be as easy, especially if they don't have a place for the fuel pump to bolt on. You'll also need to keep your old distributor.
 

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Even if I gutted like a 80 to 88 mustang with ecu and fuse box and all
If you get all the electronics, computer, EFI fuel pump, etc... You could make EFI work. Helps BIG time if you have a parts car to get what you need from.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I got it running and driving now I have a lot of slop in the shifter how do I fix that
 

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So I got it running and driving now I have a lot of slop in the shifter how do I fix that
Not sure what transmission the old Mustang II's had. My Ranger had a transmission where the shifter went in from the top. You just removed four bolts, and replaced the entire shifter. Felt like new again. Not sure how your trans is set up. No experience there.

As for the tach, no idea there, either.
 
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