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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would 2.5" dual exhaust be best for my car. When i finish it it is getting a tired old 302
I just wanna get the thing moving. Sometime i am going to build a strong cleveland for it, hopefully 400 hp or so. Would the 2.5 be good enough for me?

I do wanna put an X pipe in it, should i do that now, or will it be a big deal going from the headers on the 302 to the cleveland? I dont know how big of a diferance there will be where those end up. I would probably use hooker competition headers for both motors, would they end up in the same spot? or close to it at least?

edit: car is a 73 mustang coupe

_________________
'71 Mustang Convertible,302, needs some work
Hopefully soon to come-'73 Coupe, 351C, T-5.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: sharpshot71 on 8/9/06 9:00am ]</font>
 

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If you are going to swap to a cleveland afterwards, I'd hold off on the x-pipe, it'd probably be easier and you wouldn't risk needing another x.

I think the cleve would be wider.

the 2.5" will be fine for both motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that is what i figured. What does the X really gain you? little better sound and a few hp?

I feel stupid asking this, but you need to buy reducers to get from the 3" collectors to you 2.5" pipe correct? what would i need exactly?
 

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gives a little crisper sound then a H pipe..almost as if you've got more rpms.if that makes any sense.more high pitched.still rumbles great though!!!and supposedly a couple more hp.

reducer tube that steps from 3-2.5 is correct.
then weld it all up.

i just upgraded from stock manifolds and 2 inch exhaust to 2.5 with x and hooker supercomp headers 1.5/8 3 inch collector and the car really came alive..

the fitment of the hooker supercomps is another story though..lets just say sparks fly easy..
 

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On 2006-08-08 19:55, terlinguaterror wrote:
the fitment of the hooker supercomps is another story though..lets just say sparks fly easy..
Once you get them on, Hookers fit pretty good on early mustangs. The trick is getting them on.


There are a couple things that can get in the way of installing headers...

Sometimes headers are a b*tch to get on, but once they are on, they fit just fine. If this is the case, the installation procedure can usually be modified to get them on. To get the Hooker Super Comps on my car, the motor mount bolt (on whichever side is being installed) needs to be removed, and that side of the engine needs jacked up about an inch. Too much or too little, and it won't go. The starter, spark plugs, and clutch linkage, including the pivot that screws into the block, all need to be removed. The front of the car needs to be jacked up HIGH, and they must go in from underneath.

For some cars, the easiest way is to lay them in the engine bay BEFORE the engine is installed. Then you just lay the engine iin there and hook them up.

Another thing is to make sure the shock towers haven't settled inward. On a 65-66 mustang, the shock towers should be 33-1/2" between the centers of each shock absorber. If they have settled, you might need to get a port-a-power to shove them back apart. The 'shelby' type one piece export brace does a good job of holding it there. A monte carlo bar (called a strut tower brace by the ricers) is also a great idea. One of these will NOT allow the towers to sag together, and stiffen things up nicely.

Good Luck!
 

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my issue was not getting them on..although raising the engine to slip the left header past the shock tower was needed...but for some reason the flange..(if thats the correct term) on the passenger side tube, is welded on the collector so that the nut points down towards the ground and generates a low point that in reality could have been avoided had they either welded it on correctly,or i spotted it before it all was mounted..(driver side i perfect with nice flat bottom)for now i¨'ll try and ground it down a little bit,but i think it will be nescessary to take it of..cut the collector at the flange and turn it so that it's flat at the bottom..sorry if this was a bad explenation.

i also had to "massage tube #3 to go clear of the steering box.just some minor hammering to get it to fit.


also if your running a manual.we found it to be very easy to drop the "z"bar of the clutch linkage in from the top insted of trying to worm it in from under the car.

my friend helping me weld it all together is making the exhaust into 12 bolts drop out.(6 at the headers collectors and 6 back at the mufflers) that way the entire mid section comes out and you have easy access to transmission,drive shaft etc..

'some things to think about..

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 8/9/06 12:09pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 8/9/06 12:16pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 8/9/06 12:34pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks that sounds good. I think with that little old 302 in the 73 there should be plenty of room to put the headers on first, thats at least what im hoping for. I will put my order in to summit racing.
 

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Everyone I've talked to has the passenger flange bolt pointing downward problem.

The X will net you HP across the board. I don't remember the numbers, but a mag ran a back to back test and got more power out of the X across the board than the H.

It also smooths out all of the harshness under acceleration, but leaves the rumpy idle. I used to have a sound clip of mine, I need to get another and put it up sometime. It doesn't really make the engine higher pitch, but the common reaction to mine (when I had it dynoed at a car show) was a bunch of people asking me if I had wound it to 7000 RPM, when we only went to 6200.
 

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not trying to hijack the tread, but these headers are giving me a fight!!

my car is dropped a bit in the front.from wheelbase up to top of fender im at 33 inches..

i'm trying to decide what to do with this flange bolt pointing down on my right header.

i'm considering two options..grinding the flang all the way down making it flat and drilling two holes at each side doing two nuts+ bolts there.securing the header to pipe flange with 4 bolts

option two is cutting the collector right at the flange and rotate it slightly so flange bolt now sits on top and two on each side..like on my left header then weld it up...but this being more of a big job as i have to cut and weld the pipe also to match new bolt location..

damn exhaust!

p.s i love the performance it's giving me though.my car REALLY came alive and sounds friggin KILLER through the 2.5 magnaflow pipes.

i'm still riding low though.i've got about 2 inches clearing from ground up to lowest point on right collector..

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 8/11/06 6:57am ]</font>
 

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On 2006-08-10 20:05, thekingofazle wrote:
Yeah, I've got about 3" clearance on mine... I just take it slow over bumps.

The headers really do make it sound (and perform) great though!
is your car lowered in any way..i really need/want this to work with the headers.i don't wanna raise the car either.the roll point is really good at this point and the car handels superb when cornering..

i'm gonna get some soild engine mounts in there as well to try and cure a litte sag on the right side of the engine..

you still get rub at 3 inches?on both tubes?
 
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