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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I knew it when I bought the car....
the stock 28 spline rear end had to go. One axle had a lil wobbly and the bearings were rough.
I'd bought the car December 2012 and started saving money.
Only thing I did really in 2013 was in my last update in this forum of me carpeting and building the interior:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/makin-progress/528329-finally-carpetd-ole-gal-63-5-galaxie.html

I also mention there where I rebuilt the front end as I had the parts around. Of course rebuilding the front end made the rear feel even looser and crappier. I almost didn't like driving the car due to the loose feeling out back.
So in November 2013 I pulled the rear out of the car, I had most of the parts on hand and ready to go.



Ok so parts list thus far:
Heavy Duty Gas shocks from Greg Donohoe
31 Spline Moser Axles
Brand new 5 leaf Heavy Duty leaf springs (actually has 6 springs. Either way it's the 406/427 Leaf springs) and install kit from Eaton Spring
Gear Vendors for a c6, this was a rebuilt unit pulled from a junkyard (sure hope it works)
Brand new third member, Detroit Tru-Trac, 4.30:1 rear gears, Strange N-Case
I contacted Brent Lykins from Lykins Motorsports for the third member and axles... he is a good friend, and an excellent businessman even responding to my emails on Sundays and New Years Eve :p

Pulled Rear and got to sanding/painting:










First issue I ran into (of many) is that the old spring pads were different than what my shocks required. The old ones had a bolt welded into them to use some other type of shocks. Certainly I trust Greg Donohoe to provide the best stuff for a Galaxie so I thought "ohh no, I'm have to cut and grind a lot on these to make them work."
Just on a whim I looked for this part on Ebay and found freakin perfect set for $15. They were so nice, it just seemed like fate.

The old spring pads:


Next came hours and hours of cleaning as 50 years of crap builds up:




more cleaning and painting:


I'm crazy and even took the brakes apart... because shoot, who doesn't want freshly painting brake backing plates? While doing this it looked like one shoe had a crack so I got a new set of shoes as well.

Sadly around this time I had to go back to work. Was Thanksgiving day.... I got home again December 27th and started back to work:

The next problem arose..... The bearings on the new axles were pressed all the way to the stop whereas the bearings on the old axles were pressed "close" to the stop. The measurements I sent off were for the stops. oops! totally my fault. The passenger side was fine due to being able to be pushed in further, but the driverside was 5/16ths too long. After talking to Brent, I decided to just cut the axle. I did so, it looked very good, I cleaned it up and slid in just fine so I was happy with it.
I was previously asked to post the axle measurements for this car, I still may but due to me measuring 5/16ths off, I'd feel kinda bad if someone ran into problems with it.





All ready to slide in:


One more pic cuz it's sexy:


Ride height:


All in, looks good, ready to install Gear Vendors so i can measure and order a driveshaft. This is the c6 tailshaft that needs to be removed.



In case you wanted to see, the Crites c6 adapter plates are just 1/8inch plate with a few holes drilled in them:


Gear Vendors ready to rock:


Tailshaft removed:


Gear Vendors unit installed:






Now problem number 3. Right where the gear vendors meets the GV tailhousing it hits the floor board. It looks like I need another 1/4inch to fit the stock cross member and adapter plates. I considered options that evening, I considered many including putting the crossmember underneath the mounts and using spacers, etc etc.
I didn't like any of these ideas so I drank a few beers and considered what I could live with. Driveline angles are also going to be an issue and need to be considered.

Woke up in the morning, went to the local steel yard and bought some 1x2 rectangular stock. Cut the bottom piece, drilled mount holes, mounted it to the Tailhousing. Jacked the trans to several levels and checked driveline angles. I ended up getting pretty close to what I could live with as far as angles go. This did require removing the gear vendors and doing a little hammer work. Luckily the floor pan is under a seat so it will most likely never be seen.
Anyhow, spent a few hours installing, test fitting, removing, making adjustments and ended up with my own transmission cross member.
It isn't perfect.... but I'm proud of it.



This got me to where I could order the driveshaft from Inland Empire Driveline.
Ended up ordering a 4inch aluminum driveshaft 45.5inches long, 1350 ends.
I hope it shows up before I go back to work (I wanna drive dammit!)

Next steps, I need to fill the gear vendors with fluid and make a "homemade" engagement method as I currently do not have a wiring harness for it.
After I install the driveshaft and go for a ride, make sure the gear vendors works, I will go ahead and get the electronics kit for it. I also need to address the speedometer issue as I currently do not have one that'll work with the gear vendors. Most likely I'll need to deal with this when I get home next time, which is good.... I need to make some more freakin money :p
Ohh, the old exhaust was NOT going to work with a 4inch diameter driveshaft and the gearvendors, so I cut all of it out. So still got a lil more work to be on the road legally :p

Hope you enjoyed, and all the pictures didn't lock up your computer.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #2
and for those of you that appreciate irony......
while in the middle of this project I drove my truck (76 F100 with 390) 250 miles north to pick up a 61 Shasta camper I bought to fix up.
Made it up there and almost all the way back... 70 miles form home, blew up a rear wheel bearing:


Was kinda the joke for the wife and myself as I was pulling an axle at a gas station in nowheresville Georgia at 9pm in the rain.
"sooooo bought all this fancy rear end stuff, guess it was for the wrong vehicle."

Anyhow, if I ever meet "Murphy" from murphy's law, I'm gonna beat him up.

Drew
 

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Good job Drew, looks like she's coming along nicely!

Did you get your e-brake worked out? Was one of the more annoying details on my TKO swap crossmember. I ended up chopping a piece off the original crossmember and making a cable housing mount from a piece of L-angle.

I had length issues with my Moser axles too, which is why I've also been reluctant to share axle dimensions with anyone! Moser (and Brent) was great to deal with though and they recut the axles per my request at no charge and they even picked up the shipping both ways. Can't bitch about that!

But you should know you can't beat up Mr Murphy... You'll trip over your shoelace trying to get to that guy!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, i cut and ground the axle myself.
Emergency Brake?
Mine never had one :p So I didn't concern myself too much with it.
I wish I'd pulled the cables and stuff from my parts car before I sent it away.

Least I have an automatic transmission where a e-brake is a luxury vs a required part.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got home, got the driveline finished and exhaust made.
Man, I don't know how folks do 3 inch duals on a smaller car, it's a pain doing it in a Galaxie.

Only issue with this whole this, is two 3inch Glasspacks are way too loud, and crack at annoying times. I'll need to either put something else in their place or add in another muffler closer to the engine.
Advice?

Still need to wire up the Gear Vendors, and the brakes feel like they drag a lil much even tho they are mostly backed off.

anyway, some pictures and a video:

Driveline angles weren't set in this photo, I ended up moving the trans up another inch or so.







And the video of it idling. Sounds good at idle, but rev it up to 1500 rpms and it'll pop and snap and otherwise sound like open headers. I might go and sneak in another set of Glasspacks in front of the axle.... otherwise still debating this.
MVI_0183_zps0f0b06ea.mp4 Video by DeepRootsNursery | Photobucket
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Added another short section of mufflers. sounds good, something that I could drive 400 miles without wanting to kill myself.
Hrm. So one weird issue.

New brake shoes, the old drums *looked* ok.
On the road and also running on jackstands the car has a rhythmic brake scuffing noise.
Is it common with these cars to need to have the shoes arched to the drums? I've changed shoes on many other vehicles and never required any further action on my part.

Shoes are properly located, primary (shorter one) facing forward, star wheel adjusted so shoes just barely touch. Brake function is agreeable, but the scuffing noise is obnoxious. Guess I need to see if the drums need to be turned. everytime I think I'm done with a project
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Took drums to a friendly local shop.
Put the first one on the machine and it was warped enough it isn't worth reusing. Going to work Thursday, need to wait another month to make a lil more money etc and I'll call Greg Donohoe and get some new drums.

*sigh*
Must be patient....
 

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Glass packs are a bit restrictive, but it sounds like you've found a solution. Another option is to use "resonators" which look like small mufflers but I think are pretty open and unrestricted. They cancel out some of the noise before the mufflers. Some new cars use them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Johnny,
I have FPA headers. They are a good fit, tho the driverside ends WAY up there. So when making the custom exhaust and bolting/unbolting the collector 20 times, it was a huge pain.
They are ceramic coated as well.

Yeah, glasspacks are restrictive, tho with dual 3inch pipes I doubt it'll be a problem. Right or wrong, and I know technology has come really far, but to me there is just something about an early 60's engine with good compression and glasspacks snapping away, so that is what I did. In the future I may weld in some cutouts should I want to go to the track. On a public road, getting on the throttle results in a ton of tire slippage and whatever, so I highly doubt I can spin the engine high enough for much back pressure. I did consider the resonator. I might do something like that in the future. At the moment I just wanna drive since i laid the car up in November.

I go home march 20th (just a few days).
The project shall continue.... I've got the speedometer issue to work out, the overdrive wiring, I'd like to run a new fuel line, and I've got brake drums waiting at the house.
Will post more when I get going again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
November was a long time ago. When I came home this time (March 21st) I had lotsa parts on hand and was hopefully going to have the car back on the road.

Parts on hand:
Speedometer parts
Overdrive control kit for the GearVendors
New bendix Brake drums

I debated the brake drum issue for a bit and decided to try out the cheapo ones. They don't look original, but they were $25 each vs $100 each. I got them from Summit racing. Conclusion? they work just fine. Maybe if the car was a 4 brake drum car still I'd feel differently, but I've got front disc brakes.

The overdrive kit i got from MaxOverdrive. http://www.maximum--overdrive.com/ The limited experience I had with Gear Vendors was kinda negative. Their canned answer to everything involves WAY too much money for the parts involved and they are kinda standoffish. Perhaps if I'd bought all the parts new, vs pulling them out of a junkyard, my experience with them would be different. Glenn the owner of Max Overdrive is both friendly and helpful. He is more than willing to give advice on where and how to get the job done, even if it means he isn't making any money off it.
The only negative with this vendor is he obviously has a full time job and a life. I suspect if you were in a major hurry it could be frustrating to deal with him. However, I was not in a hurry, and I prefer dealing with a real person that is very well educated on the parts involved vs some random dude that picks up a phone in an office.

Speedometer parts were a bit of a mess to figure out. The GearVendors uses a T400 style speedo gear and hookup that is 7/8 of an inch. The overdrive speed sensor is 5/8 on one side and 7/8 on the other. the old Ford speedo hookup is 5/8s. Also due to my shortish tires and really deep rear gears I needed a reducer.
So..... From the car's speedo I needed one cable that was 5/8 on one end and 7/8 on the other. This connected the speedo gauge to the speed sensor. Then I needed a 5/8 by 7/8 that attached to the speed reducer, which screwed into the overdrive. To make things harder I had to try to visualize everything while at work, 1,000 miles away from the car.

Images detailing all of this:

Reducer, short cable, speed sensor, and longer cable:



Speed Sensor. This is needed so the GV knows when to shift on Auto mode. It will also disengage the overdrive to prevent damage if you are moving too slowly.



Speed Reducer leaves very little room to install the cable, etc.



The control kit comes with a floor switch for manual shifting:



The little brain box and switch to toggle between manual and auto mode. There are two lights on it that tell you which mode you are in and if you are going fast enough for it to engage:



got all of this hooked up, wired up, and everything tidy'd up. Went to install all the tires and noticed one tire which had severely bulged in the tread. Crap. I hated the current aluminum wheels, and the tires were 14 inch and honestly looked really tiny and inappropriate in the rear. I had wanted to change them all out "someday"
I couldn't see buying one tire when the rest were kinda old and I didn't really like them anyway, so the rational thing to do of course? (after a small nervous breakdown over being broke and still not having a driveable car) buy four new tires and wheels.

I'd measured 100 times, exactly what I'd need tire and wheel wise. I measured another 150 times and ordered some tires and wheels.
Wheels will be Wheel Vintique 62 series in 15inch.
7 inch wide in the front
8 inch in the back
Both wheels have 4.25inches of backspacing [/SIZE]
[/SIZE]

Tires were Mickey Thompson Sportsman ST's
Front: 215/70/15
Rear: 275/60/15

Even tho I measured 250 times I waited nervously for them to show up so I could test fit them. The looked good, so off to the tire shop to get them mounted on the wheels.
The fit perfectly, the results:





I considered trying to find a few cans of Corinthian White to paint the wheels, but I figured it would very hard to get the white to match perfectly so I went with black, just cuz.









Went for a ride. (I'll need to take a video at some point for this thread)
Oh my god. I'm in love again with this car.
For starters, my 429 (i dunno, probably 450hp, just guessing really) previously broke the tires loose if you looked at it funny.... now that has been replaced with pure acceleration. So THAT is awesome. Burnouts are cute for the under 18 crowd and I won't lie occasionally it's fun, but acceleration is MUCH more fun in my humble opinion.
Secondly the car rides and handles ohh so much better. I set the overdrive in auto mode and it shifts in and out of gear firmly just like a transmission with a mild shift kit in it. Cruising at highway speeds 60-70mph and running less than 3000 rpms with 4.30 rear gears is a very very nice thing.
I don't know exactly how fast, or what the power is I'm dealing with, but I would say it feels very much like my neighbors GrandNational Buick with it's aftermarket turbo and bazillion dollars spent on it. He went for a ride with me and agrees, it's pretty much on that level. He ran 12's in the quarter mile with lotsa tire slip, so at least I have a goal for when I go the track.

Anyway, that is the conclusion of the winter 2013-2014 work on my 63.5 Galaxie. I hope this will provide a summer of carefree riding as I really need to stop working on my car and do some paint/body work to my 76 F100 and my 61 Shasta camper.

Thanks for viewing!
Drew
 

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Drew,

Your c6/gear vendors write up is really going to help me. Thank you for taking the time to write up and take and post the pictures. I love the look and stance of your car and the black steel wheels look great.

Thanks Again!

Jose
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Jose!
I'm just 4 hours south of you near Valdosta. If you are ever passing through, send me a msg, we'll get together.

Anyway, I flipped the shackles right and the rear is a little lower. I like the rear to be a hair lower, swapping engines also made the front come up 1.5 inches.
The last project was spending two years building an FE for the car. It now sports a 446ci engine.
I also built a full roller c6 for the car and have done other misc stuff.

Some links that might help you:
Rebuilding the c6 in my Galaxie

and my FE build album:
445 by Drew Pojedinec | Photobucket

and the finished product:
 

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Whoa...Your car is really cool. I love it and not to sound like a broken record, however the black wheels kick ass. Great to read an see your thread.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
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