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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well ford racing said they would fit and 2-3 other reliable sources said they would fit, but even with removal of the tabs in the center of the inside of the fenders the rear tires still rub but only when I hit a big dip-when the car comes down after hit,( the right side mostly and very slightly on the left)....it rubs the out side edge of the tire..just a little bit. I can not tell how much it hits but it looks like only touching it about a 1/16 of an inch and that will need to be removed. (I still wonder about side to side), but hear it will take alot of G's to pull the car outboard or inboard to cause lateral motion and also the whole car, tire included will probebly move together. The car is lowered but only 1/2" in the back with the ford "B" springs. I got the car to reproduce the scenario in the garage by jacking it up by the axle and removing the shock bolts at the bottom and i can bounce the car and see where it hits on the silicone i put on the tire. It's fine until i hit a large dip in the road at around 50 mpr and then it rubs a very small amount. I do not want to roll the fender for fear of looseing paint on the out side of the fender and also NO ONE has the tool and it costs 300.00 and no body shop will do anyways. I guess im gonna just grind off 1/8" on the inside and feather it in at the lower part,(being carefull not to grind/cut into the pinch welds). Oh By the way I have kyb AGX ajustable shocks and EVERYTHING is new. Thanks for reading all this and any ideas or experience is appreciated.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: QUICK83 on 12/30/06 12:35am ]</font>
 

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I helped my uncle put 305/35/17 Nitto drag radials on 10.5 inch AFS cobra's on the back of his '90 lx. I rolled the fender lip using a 24 oz ball pein hammer with no damage to the paint, and the tires ended up fitting well with no rubbing that I observed. I think we were lucky, though, to have not damaged the paint. Call around to every body shop you can find, usually you can find a shop that is willing to roll the fender lip for you.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Stangboy69 on 1/2/07 11:11am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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hey guys, some high performance guru said that just putting shocks with stiffer compression would prob solve my problem. He said the kyb/agx shocks I have only adjust rebound (one thru eight)) one is soft, and eight is stiff and he said Blisten shocks were the ticket. I measured the distance of travel i have now and its about 2 1/2 inches and even with that when it does come down on tire it just touches it(about 1/8 inch) does a car rear suspension come down more than 2 1/2 inches with stiff shocks? what do you think? thanks. hey bad 88 what shock do you use??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
UPDATE:KYB said compression and reboud both affected by adjusyment!! oh well. said there shock set on 8 is as stiff as or stiffer that any shock out there!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE: no one will do it unless i say dont care if the 15 year old paint chips off so im grinding 1/2" off the inside of fender, one side allmost done....4 hours...not into the pinchweld yet!! hopefully the other side is rubbing less and will take less time to do!! when i started i thought i only had to take off 1/4 inch....oh well i got lots of time and im 1/2 way done, will touch-up fender lip when done and rust proff all.
 

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For rear clearance issues. Get a saber saw and cut short cuts in the upper lip around the inside top of the fender well. Then get a small hammer and roll the fender on the inside to give the clearance. There is nothing to it. No one will be able to notic eif you do it right.
 

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I had the C springs with 1/2 coil in the rear ones cut off. I had 97 Cobra wheels, which are 17 x 8 (I think or maybe 8.5) and 5.75 in backspace. The rear fenders have to be rolled. Get an electric heat gun. Carefully heat the paint up. You don't need the $300 tool. The way I've done several is to jack the car up (and use a piece of pipe or a big handle from another floor jack) put the pipe on top of the tire and slowly let the car down WHILE working the pipe around the wheel well. With patience you can work it pretty flat and not mess up the paint.
 
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