not sure on the stock rear gear yet but want to upgrade to 3.89 or 4.11.
this car will be a street car but will also be at the strip few times a year
The cam is 226/230 dur and .528/.536 lift with a powerband of 2500-5500rpm
I think you will be happier with the 3000 stall. Actually, if it was me, I would call a GOOD converter company and tell them the specs you just told us. My car is lighter, has more gear, and and about the same amount of cam as you and I'm running an EDGE 3700 converter.
There is NO way your car is going to be happy with a 2500 stall converter.
I, myself, would recommend either Edge, or PI. I didn't like my TCI and I don't know much about B&M or Hughes.
Call Edge or PI and give them your specs and they will recommend the correct stall speed for you.
Edge has a website where you can also enter your specs and it will give you a recommendation. http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/
My calculator estimates that you will need about 310-320 RWHP to get that heavy car into the 13.75 range. You should be close.
I still think you might need a little more than 3000 stall with that weight.
I would guess about 3500 stall. Don't take my word for it though. I would call one of those converter places and ask them.
Get the right one the first time so you don't end up doing another converter swap.........like I did!
my goal is to get anywhere below 14's. i'll be happy with 13.99 as long as I hit a 13 second run. I'm going to spend a few more pennies on the rear tires.... going to get some drag radials to help hook up. (want best ET possible) This build should be able to light up the rears in a cinch correct??????????
Well if you get a higer stall say 3500 you will have a shot at the 13's.
But then will not be as streetable.
But 3500 will let you get motor closer to it power band at launch.
The better your 60 ft time the close to 13's you will get.
Will the 3500 stall make it down the 1/4 mile without running out of powerband on the cam??? (hope that wasn't a stupid question) I just don't totally understand stall. I understand that when you launch you start at a higher rpm which will put you closer to the powerband. The cam is crane H-288-2 with 226/230 dur and .528/.536 lift and powerband is 2,500 to 5,500.
Do you guys think that this would be a better cam? The lunati 00094 with 234/244 dur and .562/.588 lift with a powerband of 2300-6300. It has the extra exhaust dur and lift to keep it flowing well. Good with torker intake,3000 stall,4.11, and 750 or 850?????
1972 Torino 351c
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dsfordguy on 6/14/06 12:21am ]</font>
If you get the Lunati cam, you will definatly need at least a 3500 converter and maybe even a little more compression.
If this is going to be mainly a street driven car, I would go with the Crane cam with a 3500 stall converter, 4:11's and steath or air gap intake and a 750.
Also, with a higher stall converter, you will need a GOOD tranny oil cooler. It's a good idea even with a stock converter.
The big problem with torque converters on a street drive car is the stall/lock up point. Anything below that point and the converter is less efficient, generating more heat. That heat has to handle by your cooling system.
Your street vehicle also has the issue of where or what is its cruising speed. Again the TC is most efficient after it goes 1:1 (or as close as it can, most TC never really get to 1:1). So your cruising rpm is 2,200 at 60 mph? Cruising below the stall speed, is not good for the transmission, so if the stall is 3,000 rpm that a bunch on a frequent basis. If your car is only occasionally and for short distances – used on the street, its not so bad.
These numbers are never exact, engine horsepower, torque, vehicle weight all have an influence. In a hypothetical situation; if you are cruising down a flat, smooth freeway at 2200 rpm, the TC may be OK. However, you are going up a hill or want to speed up, much energy will be absorbed the TC before it will respond to the throttle. That absorbed energy is going to cause more heat. Same thing with engine braking, you are not going to be able to rely on engine braking, when coming to a stop or going down a hill, as you can with a normal car. You probably would be wise to upgrade your brake system or a least keep an eye on them more; they will probably wear out the pads/shoes quicker.
In my mind...The issue is how close to the edge do you need to be compared to how much Torque Converter can your car handle. As with all "what if" equations, it really boils down to what you are willing to trade to get a little more acceleration compared to drivability, longevity.
Get the tighter TC if you see yourself driving on the street more, the looser one if the engine can handle it (makes more horsepower higher in the band - taking into account the powerband of the cam and heads) and you need it.