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Discussion Starter #1
After years of contemplation I found a 64 Ranchero that fits me perfectly. I am already diving in on upgrades and have hit my first snag.

I picked up a Tuff Stuff 1 wire alternator from Summit while filling my cart with ignition upgrades. The stock brackets do not work, and so far everything I've found on the forum or online doesn't add up. Anyone done this modification that could provide me some pointers? Attaching a pic of the setup minus the 45lb of generator I just pulled out.

Passenger side lower water pump hose, 260 V8.

Also, here's the alternator I picked up.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068
 

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I have not done a 260 small block gen-to-alt. However, with other conversions I've done on small blocks, hanging the alt from its large boss off the front of the head (you'll need a spacer or stack of washers on a long bolt), and the short ear on the bottom for the adjusting arm. The adjusting arm will probably need a bit of angle tweaking. Depending on how your compartment and hoses are laid-out, this may be an option. Gen mount brackets are usually not alternator friendly without extensive mods.

BTW - just in-case you are looking for the favored method used these days; the old converted GM alternators are now superseded by the more efficient 3G Ford internally-regulated alternators. More power than the GM-style at idle and lower cruise RPM, and you can keep your dash light so it works too. About the same price. I only mention this as some folks find-out later there is a better way, and wish they had known about it before they were committed to the old GM alternator swap that was popular in the '70s thru '90s. Although, either way will function.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, appreciate the good info. I'm hoping someone has done this on a 260 and can help with the correct bracket setup. There is one primary set online, but I have not seen it applied to this application specifically. Additionally it indicates a no go for passenger side inlets, which mine has. I guess I was hoping there was a way without too much rigging or custom fabrication, but maybe I'm wrong.

Bracket kit example

SB Ford Alternator Bracket Kit 260, 289, 302 - Ford Alternator Brackets
 

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Actually, the description states it ONLY works for passenger-side upper hoses - which almost all Fords are. Standard 289/302 brackets like these should work fine also. Below is a pic of a small block I did with a Ford 3G alternator. You can see it uses a standard Ford upper triangular support bracket, a standard slider bracket for adjustment, and both the upper and lower hoses are on the right (passenger) side. Fits right onto stock brackets (same dimensions as the old Ford alternators) and retains the stock Ford ALT warning light on the dash, and makes more power at idle than the GM-style does at cruise speed.
:tup:
David

Small block with passenger-side upper and lower radiator hoses, and factory alternator brackets. One wire to the battery and one to the red/green dash light wire. Done. :

 

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Discussion Starter #6
That might be it, it's that bracket and hose position that has been throwing me off. I think I can make it work if I get the right bracket. Will report back when I get my hands on one. Thanks a bunch!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anyone know the specs on that top bolt? Small block Windsor is 7/16 thread as best I can find so far? Length, maybe 5.5 or 6 inches?
 

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Yep, about 5 1/4" long bolt, I did run the same as David;s pic using the Ford triangular ,mount on top, & the arched flat arm on bottom to adjust. But, recently picked up a Moroso Ford alt.mount, the Moroso mount uses a thick aluminum shaft to replace the long bolt, its about 3" long & bolts to your head re-allthread, then a shorter bolt through the alt to that aluminum holder for Alt, to swing on
Moroso comes with an andozied(Ford blue) lower mount from 2 timing bolts to a turnbuckle stlye adjuster that runs to bottom alt bolt hole to adjust tension, nice little piece from Summit.
I;m still running GM CS series Alt. (100amp)at the time I didn't know about the 3G upgrade.
 

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After years of contemplation I found a 64 Ranchero that fits me perfectly. I am already diving in on upgrades and have hit my first snag.

I picked up a Tuff Stuff 1 wire alternator from Summit while filling my cart with ignition upgrades. The stock brackets do not work, and so far everything I've found on the forum or online doesn't add up. Anyone done this modification that could provide me some pointers? Attaching a pic of the setup minus the 45lb of generator I just pulled out.

Passenger side lower water pump hose, 260 V8.

Also, here's the alternator I picked up.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068
First get rid of the gen mount as it won't fit any ford alt. You need the triangular mount bracket, a long bolt and the ford spacer that goes between the back side of the alt and the block. You may have to use some washers to get the right belt alignment. The lower adjust bracket is different than the one on the gen. Both parts are common to 289/302 on many cars and applications.
By the way the Tuff Stuff may be listed as a ford but it looks more like a GM case. Probably altered to fit the ford. Never seen a ford alt look like that.
Once you get the right brackets and pieces it will easily bolt right in and will fit correctly.
R
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks to the input here and some additional searching I got all the mounting sorted out. I went the 3G upgrade route and everything fits really well. Now for the wiring.

First, I see two different methods of running the 'A' terminal yellow/white wire. One diagram says run it to the positive solenoid terminal, the other says run it to the B+ terminal on the alternator itself.Examples of the two different diagrams, so far I have everything hooked up according to the first one.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2715&pictureid=10925


http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf


Secondly, I now have the old wiring harness and mechanical voltage regulator setup. I've read through dozens of threads all over the place and can't connect the dots here, between the new alternator setup and the firewall wiring harness. Do I simply re attach the big black/yellow stripe wire from the harness to the positive solenoid terminal like it was previous? What about the rest of the wires and the old voltage regular? What do I do with all these wires? Is it as simple as pulling it all out and connecting anything that needs power (horns etc.) to he positive solenoid terminal?

Finally, below the voltage regulator, there is another small square box with two wires running into it. What is this? Does the answer to question #2 also take care of this? I'm assuming yes.



Maybe I'm missing something obvious here, but truly struggling. Thanks for reading.
 

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Correct. Note the small YEL/BLK wire from the firewall (left on diagrams or bottom on yours) can be either left connected to the fat YEL/BLK, and the other end to the alternator GRN/RED - or - remove the fat YEL/BLK and attach the small YEL/BLK to the WHT wire and then to the GRN/RED. This can avoid adding a new wire to the harness to connect the YEL/BLK to the GRN/RED at the 3G alternator "I" termnal.

While this saves adding or pulling wires, you must be sure the wires and connections are very good. Soldering old wires with surface corrosion is often difficult to do well and crimp connectors are almost guaranteed to fail, so this is why cutting the connections and re-splicing is suggested, as this will expose clean wire for the splicing.

BTW - your wiring has a radio noise suppression capacitor in it (small cylinder at the bottom of your regulator) to reduce static in AM radios. The wire from the RNS capacitor should be grouped with the BLK/YEL power wires. When you remove the regulator, put the bolts back with the capacitor and upper ground attached under them for proper grounding. Insulate everything well with electrical tape and/or protective sleeving.

David

1964 Gen Reg to 3G alternator wiring mods:

 

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Maybe this would make it a little clearer. Some wires get reused to make the final connections, others just get abandoned as well as the old reg. As in the diagram you may need to add a shunt resistor to the charge lamp. If you are adding a fairly large output 3G don't forget the fuse for safety.
Yes the little box below the old reg is the horn relay. Leave that in place and reconnect it per the diagram.
R
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Now we're talking. I was putting pieces together from other posts but have not seen these wiring diagrams. You guys are the best, much thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First, I want to thank everyone for the help so far. I've completed the conversion and everything seems to be working great!

My only remaining task is to wire in a resistor to the GEN lamp. I'm figuring I just splice the resistor between the two wires going into the GEN light, but have two questions.

1) I ask the above because I read the two wires would be BLK/GRN (Ignition) and GRN/YLW (Regulator). The two wires feeding into the GEN light on my car are BLK/GRN and YLW/BLK, is this still correct?

2) I could not find the wattage listed in any of the forum pages. Radio Shack has a 1/2W 560, is this sufficient?

Thanks again
-D
 

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I didn't re-read the thread, but if it's a Ford 3G alternator, that should work. The earlier Ford alternators need much less resistance.

David

 

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First, I want to thank everyone for the help so far. I've completed the conversion and everything seems to be working great!

My only remaining task is to wire in a resistor to the GEN lamp. I'm figuring I just splice the resistor between the two wires going into the GEN light, but have two questions.

1) I ask the above because I read the two wires would be BLK/GRN (Ignition) and GRN/YLW (Regulator). The two wires feeding into the GEN light on my car are BLK/GRN and YLW/BLK, is this still correct?

2) I could not find the wattage listed in any of the forum pages. Radio Shack has a 1/2W 560, is this sufficient?

Thanks again
-D
One source says to start with an 8K resistor and to work up in 8K increments. Another source says to use a 500 ohm resistor. You can try the 560 ohm from radio shack and see how it works.

From 65 up the falcon and maybe some others already have a 15 ohm resistance wire in parallel with the charge lamp. Which still may work just fine. To increase those to a higher resistance would require cutting that wire and splicing in a new value at the bulb or in series with that wire.

As long as you splice the resistor to the leads to the bulb it should work. Doesn't matter what color the wires are.
R
 
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