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Discussion Starter #1
This might not be the most exciting topic, but I'd still like to get your opinion on this.

I'm building a 289-2V for my father-in-law's 65 'stang. I'm going to convert it from a 6 cyl A/T to a V8 A/T w/ P/S. He's 76 so his interests lie in reliable economical performance...not max power.
He'll be giving this car to my son one day, so I'll be working on it for the rest of it's life. I've got all the parts to build a stock motor with long tube headers.

My questions to you are for your opinions on the heads, cam, and exhaust. I've got three sets of heads, C6 - 289, C8 - 289, and some as yet unidentified 302 heads that came off my **sick** truck motor. I'm planning to use cast flat tops, or if the block doesn't clean up until it's bored 0.060" over I've got a set of cast dished 0.060 over pistons. The C6 - 289 heads have smaller combustion chambers than the C8's. And, they
(C6's) should yeild a good squeeze with the flat tops. I imagine the 302 heads have the largest comb chamber of them all (haven't taken them off the block yet...so I don't know what they are). I'm going to run a 2V intake and a 2bbl carb that I already have. I have the stock cam and lifters that came out of my donor motor (the one I built for the truck recently). And, I would consider buying a new cam and lifters for the car based on your opinions...but I'd rather not. As for the exhaust, I've got a set of Hedman (I think) long tube headers and I'll have to build the exhaust. I'm planning to use 2" tubing with an H-pipe and duals out the back. What mufflers should I use, it needs to flow good, but can't be loud? If my mother-in-law won't ride in it, then I've failed to meet his expectations.


So, in summary:
1) Which heads should I use (assuming they will all consume the same amount of $'s at the machine shop)?
2) Will the stock cam deliver the most economy on this set-up (assume 3.00 or 3.25 final drive gear)?
3) What exhaust system design (tubing size and muffler selection) will yeild a quiet and economical (MPG not price) package?

Thanks for your consideration of this rather boring topic.


_________________
Beegshot
65 'stang, in process
66 'stang, SBF parts donor
79 F150 SuperCab, SBF (new 306!!!), parts hauler
96 Explorer 5.0, grocery getter, kid hauler
Henry Ford said, "If you find you need a tool, you have already paid for it."

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: beegshot on 4/25/04 11:08pm ]</font>
 

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Sounds like a decent combo for reliability. A stock repop exhaust system with resonators and stock type mufflers would be just about the quietest I could think of. But the repop systems lack in the fitment arena. A pair of super turbos, The H crossover, and maybe some header inserts would make it very quiet.

For reliability, I would build the long block close to stock specs, but use a good electronic ignition system, at least a pertronix in the distributer, maybe a full MSD or Jacobs system, but anything but points. You definitely dont want the older folks to be stranded some where becasue the points burned.

Over build the cooling system, especially with the +.060 bore. Aluminum rad, high flow pump and a 180* tstat should do it.

Over build the charging system too. Maybe a 3G, put a good battery in it too.
 

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see if you can find a 83-85 Mustang 5.0 liter H.O. cam. Theye were flat lifter hydralic, make good hourspower...or somthing from Crane in the RV series (nothing bigger than 272 duration)will give good street pep.

Believe it or not,there are some factory 2 barrel carbs that flow real close to the 400-500 cfm range, so don't think that just because you have a 2 barrel, it can't breath. Some of the stock 2 barrel autolites from the early 80's 351M and 400 clevlends would be a great place to find a core or maybe one that still works. I would stay with the 289 heads if it was me, maybe have larger valves installed in the heads (1.90/1.60). This package, if put together right, would not give much away to a stock 4 barrel 289 or 302, might even beat 'em! The gas mileage should be expected at around the 16/24 city/freeway range, with 2:75 or 3:00 gears.

I would get the Dynamax turbo mufflers, 2 - 2.25in pipes should be plenty, you don't really need 2.5in. tail pipes for this package, they may even lose a little power if the pipes are that big.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 4/26/04 3:33am ]</font>
 

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use the C6 heads as they will have the smallest combustion chamber. have the heads ported, and the chambers polished for best performance, yes that includes fuel economy as well. installing a set of 1.94in/1.50ex valves also helps. find a set of hipo 289 exhaust manifolds and have a good custom dual exhaust system built for the car. remember to tell the exhaust guy you want the car quiet. stock type flattop pistons, and an he260h cam from comp cams along with the recomended valve springs, and a set of 1.6 roller rockers to round out the package. top it off with your 2bbl carb, and you will have a good performing engine that will be fuel efficient, and smooth.
 

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Use the C8 heads. Have them CC'd - if they are near the nominal 63cc, deck them a bit to get the chambers to 60~61cc. With a .060 overbore, that should put you in the 9.1:1 range. If they have to have valves, you could install 351W valves in the heads. However, if they require too much rework you might check into the price of a set of reman GT-40 lightning heads from Ford. Might very well be cheaper than rework/springs/etc on the old heads and they really don't need porting. I just picket up a set for $400 from a guy - new, never run. 61cc chambers, new valves, springs and seals. Actually, the C8 heads can get by without porting but I'd at least take out the bump in the exhaust and maybe clean up the bowls and short turn. Not really necessary. Run something like a 194/204 cam and 2 1/4" exhaust. The stock cam would also probably be fine. As for real quiet, I don't do that
but the Dynomax Turbos are cheap and have a little rumble to 'em. You might have to go with a regular muff to keep the noise down.

The Falcon with the 302, 600 Edelbrock, 3.25 gear and 204/214 cam got the best of 14mpg freeway. 3350 lbs with driver. So just be careful of overtricking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gee, I hope the next person doesn't suggest the 302 heads.


Thanks for the input guys.
I really do have to take a look at all six heads
to see which set will require the least amount of work. The assumption above about equal machine shop costs is not real. I am planning to knock down the thermactor bump and clean up the bowls in whichever set I use.
Right now the C6's look like they've had the most recent valve job and already have some stellite seats. I'll have to pull the valves and take a close look at all the seats.

I'm still torn on the cam/lifters, I'm doing this on my own dime and need to be as economical as possible. Beoweolf...a friends GT convertible (year unknown) just burned to the ground (I'll find out what model it is and what he's going to do with the wreck). I've got a perfectly good stock cam and lifters sitting on the bench...If I don't use them in this motor they're going in the trash (part of my effort not to be a pack rat).

The turbo mufflers will probably yeild the best overall exhaust system performance...thanks ChicoB (and that's a GREAT call on the Pertronix Ignitor...I HATE points). With an h-pipe they should have a nice low rumble without popping. I can get some pre-bent 2.25" pipes from NPD for some reasonable $'s (they're not mandrel bent, but 2.25 is probably a little big for this set up anyway...I can live with the pressure drop).

Thanks for all the input folks.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

_________________
Beegshot
65 'stang, in process
66 'stang, SBF parts donor
79 F150 SuperCab, SBF (new 306!!!), parts hauler
96 Explorer 5.0, grocery getter, kid hauler
Henry Ford said, "If you find you need a tool, you have already paid for it."



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: beegshot on 4/26/04 11:47pm ]</font>
 

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I realize your doing this out of pocket, and I understand how that can be, but what about a Gearvendors overdrive? (www.gearvendors.com, i think) You could put as big as 3.73 and still have an economical final drive. (Or you could always go to fuel injection...fun) Though i think it was PHR that had a do it yourself TPI system for under 200 bucks for the computer. You just need a TPI manifold and injectors from a later model mustang. (i know this stuff isn't that cheap but im throwing ideas out for reliability) I assume you'll wan't AC in it, and I suggest a new Sanden R134a compatible compressor, not the old style one (as they are both less reliable, efficient, and rob more horsepower.) Definitely replace the points with a pertronix
 

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If your heads are poor and you are looking at aftermarket consider a set of GT40P heads. Iron head from the 97-2000 Explorer and Mountaineer. A pair of 289 HiPo exhaust manifolds get you past the spark plug fitment issue and keeps you quiet. The heads are very efficient with small ports with good velocity and should make good torque.
 
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