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Sometimes there is core shift. Also seems strange on 2 heads.
Remember doing port work on some rare big oval port chevy heads. One worked out fine. The other seemed wierd / different. Just touched a spot not any real pressure and the bur broke through. I thank God I didnt end up selling them.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm having the shop that did work tell me what's going on but who I talked to first said that's an old SS class trick to help the flow, this guy wants me to call back tomorrow to talk to the guy that did them. I'll let you guys know what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I just got done taling to the shop tech that did the job and he said to make the heads flow better he smoothed out the floors on the exhaust with braze and then ported them. He told me I'd be surprized how much these stock casting shift.....to get the flow numbers they wanted he had to do the extra work. Other wise he said they're good for the street but he did suggest leaving the stock valves in for better low in torque. To get my 66 moving better that's what it needs for sure.
 

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I would just keep the small valves also for what your doing. Installing larger ones could hurt the flow without other port work and flow testing. Without flow testing and work they might pick up 7 CFM not realy worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
with these heads and my Ford aluminum dual plane high rise and headers of course I was planning on having around 10:1 compression and a 625 holley. I'm also wanting 3:25 gears in the rear and a new C4 and stall converter depending on what cam I get.

I still want to be able to drive her on the highway and get better then 12 mpg if possible. I've been looking at cams till I can't see straight and the more I look the more I get confused. If I want to keep my hp around 280-300 then I'm thinking a mild cam would work fine...maybe?

I want some low to mid range stump pullin torque cam that'll have a nice sound too. I know some cams can be aggressive and wear out a valve train fast, I don't want that. If I have to have a custom grind then I'll go that way for sure.
 

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Your intake is a eddelbrok RPM badged a Ford or similar. It will flow about 170 CFM. At what lift point do the heads flow 170?
Another point if the good port bad port flows are averaged closer to 160/165 CFM.
A cam lift for a good power curve would be one that lifts the valve to that point could go a bit more like .015 or so. Around that point the power curve starts to moove upward in the RPM. As it moves upward lowend and midrange begins to suffer depending on how radical the cam is. This mabe valuable in some forms of street, strip.

Duration @ at .050 Moves the power band up or down even if the lift is kept the same.

A higher stall can lower economy soo best kept stock if possible.

Info also needed is your tire diameter and max cruse speed. Usualy I pick about 80 maxx and figure RPMs required to run speeds from 50 to 80 in 10MPH steps.
Did you post yor head flow data here?

Have you given any thoughts to installing a AOD? I use one its been modded a bit and has a aftermarket valve body that has an electric OD shut off. This could be used wit ha bit lower gear.
In my grand marquis I could usally do 27 to 32.9 highway and 22ish intown with 3.55 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Hiya Turbo, I've considered the AOD but I don't know much about them. I've heard they can be tricky. My max cruise speed is 70 @ 2600 or 2700 rpm and the tire diameter is 28". I do have tall 15's on back right now and that's effected the speedo by 5 mph. It has 3:00 gears too.

Flow Specs,

Intake:

Lift Flow
200 127
300 172
400 191
500 208
600 213

Exhaust:

Lift Flow
200 100
300 132
400 160
500 178
600 182

Hope those come across right and help
 

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Need the part number for the intake your using just to make sure which one it is.

The only tricky thing about an AOD is the TV cable and its adjustment. Is adjustment isnt all that big of a deal. I run several and have had no issues. Currently use the Locar cable, Holly linkage adapter. Also converted to a B& M floor shift and aftermarket valve body with a solinoid that shuts on and off the OD. Dont know if you have a floor shift already.

Will look up some info later
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hiya Turbo, Just to make it easier lets just call it an Edelbrock F4B since that intake and the original aluminum Ford dual plane high rise I've got are almost identical.

From what I've heard this intake flows around 2500-6500 rpm give or take a few hundred of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Turbo, I've got the old Green dot C4 and column shifter....:( I want to change over to bucket seats so I can put a floor shifter in so if you guessed it I also have a bench seat...LOL! I'll be doing a lot of mods just for a new tranny before I get to the engine, new buckets and new carpet make me smile big time! :D
 

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Back to the original question, I would run em, if a new/used/other set is out of the question. Those NHRA S/S guys are crafty, and do things that MOST ppl dont do, due to the rules...
 

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That was the C5AE-E head (many variations before that). What you have is the same basic head without all of the fancy machining.

I just happened across that and posted it for illustration.

All I know is that during that period, a 327 CHEVELLE was deadly and the 289HP (street) didn't stand much of a chance (IMO).
 

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Looks like a cam for what you want would be .480 lift, 212 to 218 duration @ .050 range. You might not realy need a higher stall if its more for crusing than drags.
Keep the 3.00 rear or is it a 3.08.

If you have any thoughts as to using a AOD at any point last I looked there was only one B&M that would convert to a AOD, C4, C6. Dont think anyone else had one. If you go with a AOD a lower gear could be used.


What carb are you thinking about?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I like your cam choice Turbo and it's got the 3:00 gear in it now, I was going to put a 3:25 in for a little more off the line power. If I go with a C4, If I go with an AOD then a 3:50 for sure. I think I'll keep the 8" and just strengthen it up with a better pumpkin and axles, it should hold up fine since I'm not going to race her.

That cam looks like one of the Ford cams, Crower makes a roller like that and Isky makes a flat tappet like that too.

I'm seriously thinking the AOD for sure, how much hp can it take? Do you need a ECU for one of those?

I was planning on going with a 600 or 625 Holley.....easier to tune then my current 500 Edelbrock. I've also got a 600 Edelbrock that I thought was to big for a mostly stock 289 so it's in the box now all clean.
 

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I like your cam choice Turbo and it's got the 3:00 gear in it now, I was going to put a 3:25 in for a little more off the line power. If I go with a C4, If I go with an AOD then a 3:50 for sure. I think I'll keep the 8" and just strengthen it up with a better pumpkin and axles, it should hold up fine since I'm not going to race her.

That cam looks like one of the Ford cams, Crower makes a roller like that and Isky makes a flat tappet like that too.

I'm seriously thinking the AOD for sure, how much hp can it take? Do you need a ECU for one of those?

I was planning on going with a 600 or 625 Holley.....easier to tune then my current 500 Edelbrock. I've also got a 600 Edelbrock that I thought was to big for a mostly stock 289 so it's in the box now all clean.
Crane also makes severl cams in that range. The AOD does not use an ECM. They use a TV cable that varies the pressure. Locar makes an aftermarket cable for it. AODs hold up perty well and can be jucied up to run around 1000HP if needed. There are a few cheep mods I would recomend. If your near by I have a couple left.
 

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Recomdation for a carb would be a Quick Fuel SS-680-VS. Main reason every metering orface is jettable also secondary opening is adjustable by turning a screw. This would be tunable for best economy and performance without modifying a Holley to do the same.
 
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