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Discussion Starter #41
Here's the Crower I was thinking of.....480/210 intake, .480/214 exhaust & 112 LC. 2100-5300rpm/5800 max

Isky Cam: 480/214 intake & exhaust, 108 LC, 2000-5800 rpm

I'll check out Crane and that Quick Fuel carb.

Just what is it that you have a few left of?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Just wanted to make sure, I thought that's what you might of had. I'm in KS but I want to wait on the AOD for now.

I've got to get some steering & suspension parts replaced then I can go full bore on the fun stuff.

Thanks for the help everyone and glad you'll stuck in there.
 

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I used the B&M Mega Shifter. Ended up using the light truck version.
Reason is the car version left the shifter at unusual position. Modified the truck mount to make it feel like it was placed like the factory would have.
Have some pics if you would like to see.
If you were close one of my trannys would be a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
I'd like to see some pics....I'm not sure what year Fairlane you've got. Do you have pics posted in the gallery, I have some, if you do a search and type in Rickracer my 66 will pop up.

What do you think of that Crower Cam? I know the Isky is old school but it's close to the same specs....both say the have great low/mid range torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Here's a pic of the finished painted heads, I used Duplicolor Ford Dark Blue or Ford Corporate Blue then I sprayed some clear on them and they shine with the flash on so really there not that bright.


Here's what those heads are going in.....:D

 

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Nice work! I did a set of 289 heads just like these years ago for a 351W. Compression was way too high and I had to use a copper spacer to dial it in to be more streetable.

I did all of the port work myself. Really opened up and contoured the exhaust side, and evened up, and smoothed out the runner curves on the intake with a healthy amount of bowl work and work around the valve stems on both the intake and exhaust sides.

The valves I used were a stainless Chevy 1.9" with a Ford 1.6" (that's what the Ford shop I worked with recommended). The heads were already slotted, and I had the machined for screw-in studs.

The intake was a Weiand Stealth and made outstanding power, but it was a 351W. On 302s I have always been very happy with the Offy 360 split-plenum intake.

The cam I really liked (way too big for your application) was a roughly 238 degrees at .050" with .535" lift and a 108 degree center line. I would say that based upon what you are looking for as far as your operating RPMs, the two cams you had listed looked good and pretty streetable to me. I would be tempted to get a slightly higher stall torque converter (1,800 or so like a Saturday Night Special for example) which should be a nice balance of stall speed vs. driveability. The cam might like just a little more stall, but the Fairlane isn't super light, so that should help push the stall up slightly as well.

The 3.25 gear might be a nice little bump as well. With your larger rear tires you have already effectively changed your rear axle ratio making it taller than the stock 3.00, so a 3.25 will put you a little ways back over the line in the opposite direction. This will also help wind the engine up into your torque curve and reduce/eliminate any bog out of the hole.

As long as you keep an appropriate sized carb on there, your car should really snap out of the hole!

Good luck!

NOTE ADDED: If you go with the AOD and a looser converter, definitely increase the rear gear or you can fry the converter in O.D.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Hiya Pvan, I checked into the TCI Saturday Night Special and it sounds like it might be the right one for what I want. Some guys here have it and love it and as for the gears in the rear, I'm thinking of some 3:25's which is a good balance for town and highway but I wasn't sure what you meant by my gearing would change since I've got the taller 28's on the back.

If the 28's changed the gear ratio then what is it now with my 3:00's? I'm wondering then what it would be with 3:25's in the back, maybe I don't need a 3:40 or 3:50 gear then?

The AOD sounds like it's the way go and as you said I'll need at least the 3:25 gear in the rear so I don't fry the converter. Right now my stock C4 green dot is working really well but I know it won't be with all the changes I want to do soon. So instead of rebuilding it I might as well go with an AOD and benefit in every way and just clean up the C4, paint it and put it aside.
 

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A couple of quick things. Some of which may be obvious, but aren't always considered.

A non over drive trans has a final drive ratio of 1:1.
Multiply that by your rear gear (3.00:1 for example) with a stock tire, and you have your final drive ratio (3.00)
Add a .8 overdrive and the final drive ratio becomes 2.40:1 in overdrive.

If you add a taller tire you effectively change your final drive ratio in ALL gears. Using a couple of guesstimates for tire sizes since I don't have precise number(different tires of the same size vary in diameter, etc.) a 195/75/14 tire have a circumference of roughly 80 inches. A 255/60/16 is roughly 88 inches (and 28" tall). The difference in ratio is 80/88=.909 or roughly .91.

The new taller tires and a 3.00 rear and no overdrive will give you a rear ratio of roughly 2.73 in all gears. With our example .80 overdrive, your final ratio in overdrive would then dip to 2.18:1.

This is a problem with automatic overdrive and a higher stall because the converter is constantly slipping in OD at low RPMs. Kiss your non-locking converter goodbye.

Now add a 3.50 rear end, and overdrive with the taller tires takes your effective gear ration to 3.19:1 in first through third, and 2.55:1 in OD. I don't recall what the AOD final drive ratio is (.78 or .84?) but that should start to get you in the ball park.

Typically with an AOD and taller tires you are looking at a 3.50 to 3.73 rear end to keep your converter safe. The BEST way to do this is call the tech department that manufactured your planned converter. Tell them what you are doing with the car, how you will be using it, and have the other parts you will be using available and they will be able to recommend the correct rear ratio to keep your trans happy.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Pvan,

Thanks for all information but not knowing a lot of what your saying I think I get the jist of it. If I'm understanding you with my C4/3:00 gear and 28" tall tire I've lowered my gear ratio to around 2:79?! I thought it would have been the other way so I should be getting better gas mileage with taller tires right?


I will need to put at least a 3:50 gear in the rear to work right with a AOD.
 

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Pvan, Thanks for all information but not knowing a lot of what your saying I think I get the jist of it. I will need to put at least a 3:50 gear in the rear to work right with a AOD.
Most likely will need at least a 3.50 gear, but call the tech people at B&M to see what they recommend on your specific set up. Based upon what you've discussed to this point, I would think 3.50-3.73, but make the call. :D
 

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Best economy with a carb is to set up gearing/tire size to have the engine running with the carb throttle plate still in the idle curcuit at your cruse speed. One reasion I mentioned the Quick FUEL carb previously is that all curcuits are jetted. Most holly carbs dont have that ability. Most dont ever get the idle curcuits tuned properly and most likely run in the main curcuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Went to the swap meet today and snagged a cherry 8" pumpkin that in great shape and already cleaned up and painted.
Now I'm going to find out which new gear and posi unit to put in it and get that later, never rebuild a pumpkin before but it should be fun! I was thinking of a 3:40 or 3:50 gear but want to check and see which one will be better for an AOD later. :D
 

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You want your converter's stall rating rpm to be lower than your cruise at 70 rpm if at all possible. If the converter is slipping a lot at highway speed you either have to make very short trips or it will cook your transmission due to excessive heat.

At any given speed a taller tire will lower the rpm because 1 revolution of the tire gets you further down the road. There are calculators around the net that let you play with this stuff.

For quick and dirty I use these;
Drag racing tools 1/4 mile & 1/8th mile conversion calculators

For converter percent I plug in 7 percent for a general ballpark number.

With any converter that has some stall you will also want to add an external cooler if you don't already have one.
 
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