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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to the forum and it's been several years since I've wrenched on a car, so apologies in advance if I've overlooked something simple, but I could really use some advice.

I've got a 67 Cougar with a 289/2bbl/C4 (stock except for dual exhaust) that has been setting up for 6+ years and I've recently got it around to getting it started. It's started and runs very poorly (little low end power), idle isn't great and has a sporadic backfire through the exhaust when revving the engine.

Here's a quick rundown of what I've done so far:
  • Drained Gas Tank and refilled with fresh Gas
  • Replaced Fuel Filter and Accelerator Pump Diaphragm
  • Reasonably Cleaned Carb with Spray Carb Cleaner (didn't completely go through it)
  • New Spark Plugs
  • New Plug Wires
  • New Distributor Cap
  • New Rotor
  • New Points
  • New Coil
  • Replaced leaking Vacuum Advance

I've checked the timing (with Vacuum Advance disconnected and plugged) and it's pretty close to 6 degrees BTDC. After spraying around with some Carb Cleaner, it appears I've got a small vacuum leak at a "T" off the manifold port that I'll take are of.

I'm thinking I need to rebuild the Carb (2100 Series) as a next step, but would definitely welcome any suggestions. It's got an exhaust leak too, so it's hard to tell if there's anything else going on.


Thanks,

Allen
 

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Rebuild carb after 6 yrs of sitting it needs it. Run compression check and report back.
 

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You did good.

The carb cleaner only makes the outside clean but don't touch the inside unless you take the carb top off ;). That is where you need to clean. Inside the carb.

But the man from the Great White Nowhere said the most important thing. Drive it man, the new fuel will eventually remove any varnish build up over a week or so of driving.
 

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one word

SEAFOAM!

then rebuild carb (if timing really is right)

then check timing again.

had the same probs with my old 67 FAIR, 2 rebuilt carbs later shes running like a champ.
 

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Sometimes, especially with a car that sits long enough for the gas to evaporate, then someone fills the tank, drives a little and lets that gas evaporate, etc., so much varnish and gum will build up in the tank that you will be plagued with sticking exhaust valves as new gas dissolves this crud and it coats the exhaust valve stems with sticky goo that hangs them up (your source of the backfire). I've had them stick so bad from old gas that I've had to pull the heads. One I fixed by airing up the cylinders, removing the valve springs, clamping a small Vise-Grips gently on the stem, removing the air, then spraying the stem with carb cleaner and working the valve up and down. Right now I have a '40 Ford with a flathead that has this problem. I've tried Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, carb cleaner through the spark plug holes, etc., etc., and now I will have to pull the heads. It's funny; it will idle fine, but rev it up a little and the valves can't close fast enough and it falls on it's face!
 

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...but rev it up a little and the valves can't close fast enough and it falls on it's face!
Just the intakes?

Have you tried any penetrate?
 

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Seafoam will NOT prevent sticking valves, but it will make the fuel more burnable.

The varnish is easy to remove, simply add a gallon or so of new fuel, shake and let sit for a few day's and shake it often, then simply drain the fuel and fill'er up and be done.

Of course, the fuels of the last 10 years leave much LESS varnish than the fuels prior to the 1990's, so the newer the fuel that's sat and evaporated the less overall thick varnish you will have to deal with.

All the advice so far is still good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, for about a 1/2 hour after rebuilding the Carb, it ran beautifully. Then I stalled it when trying to adjust the idle, fine tune things. Now I've got no spark at #1 (maybe something very weak) and very weak spark coming from the coil (can barely see it and this is a new coil), this a problem with the points, correct?

Thanks!!




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Discussion Starter #10
Just want to close this topic out with everyone. Rebuilding the Carb pretty much got me going. I ran not some weird spark problem when replacing the points and condenser and ended up putting the old condenser back in to get it resolved. Thanks for your help!


Regards,

Allen


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Seafoam will NOT prevent sticking valves, but it will make the fuel more burnable..

agreed, i was refering to what he did to his carb and fuel system. helped my old fairlane out when i first got her. it helped her cough up a lot of that gunk in the carb and fuel system.

ive also been told putting a bit of it in his vac lines.... only heard never done
 

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I ran not some weird spark problem when replacing the points and condenser and ended up putting the old condenser back in to get it resolved.

Thanks for your help!
Wondering...

I am a$$-u-ming the replacement points/condenser you bought are CHI-COM. Was the old condenser MOTORCRAFT?
 
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