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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone..

After an unreasonable amount of overtime I've decided to treat myself to some goodies..

As stated in other post the 289 in my 67 is bone stock except that HEI and 600cfm holley..

Im thinking about cam and liffters,, dbl roller.. new oil pump.. intake ..and if anyone knows what headers will fit the 67 id very much like to change the exhaust...

I know there many threads about this kinda thing ,but i was hopeful that GALAXIE owners could help me out.

Galaxies being bigger and heavier than the other fords that use the 289,, I'm sure choices would change.

I simply am looking for more torqe than stock. With tbe intentions of keeping her reliable.
Thanks again for any help. Advice or sharing experience.
Scott.
 

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Edelbrock 600
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. (will lose nothing in low end power to the 50 year old design of the standard Peformer)
Edelbrock E-Street heads
Small cam around 206 to 212 @ 0.050" on the intake, a little more on the exhaust. 110-112 lobe separation.
Headers
Dual Exhaust

Not a Galaxie person aside from dad using to own one a long time ago, but the above is a good recipe for grunty torque that will move the heavy car along nicely. No aftermarket torque converter needed. The heads are a key part, as the factory heads are utterly junk. You will need hardened pushrods, as they use guide plates. Also aftermarket rocker arms. Don't forget to check for rocker geometry any time something is changed in the valvetrain.

The heads are surprisingly affordable, and work fine with a small, flat tappet cam. Key component of the combination. Heads have 1/2" head bolt holes to allow them to be used on 351W heads. Must use head bolts with bushings to neck the 1/2" down to 7/16". ARP part is listed below.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5023
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-3705/overview/make/ford

Good Luck
 

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Edelbrock 600
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. (will lose nothing in low end power to the 50 year old design of the standard Peformer)
Edelbrock E-Street heads
Small cam around 206 to 212 @ 0.050" on the intake, a little more on the exhaust. 110-112 lobe separation.
Headers
Dual Exhaust

Not a Galaxie person aside from dad using to own one a long time ago, but the above is a good recipe for grunty torque that will move the heavy car along nicely. No aftermarket torque converter needed. The heads are a key part, as the factory heads are utterly junk. You will need hardened pushrods, as they use guide plates. Also aftermarket rocker arms. Don't forget to check for rocker geometry any time something is changed in the valvetrain.

The heads are surprisingly affordable, and work fine with a small, flat tappet cam. Key component of the combination. Heads have 1/2" head bolt holes to allow them to be used on 351W heads. Must use head bolts with bushings to neck the 1/2" down to 7/16". ARP part is listed below.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5023
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-3705/overview/make/ford

Good Luck
I agree here with just a little more cam 110 to 120 at 50 will still get you the low end grunt with a stock converter. Either way it will wake up the little Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys,,
1. I've no idea what so ever how to check the geometry of rockers..
2. How do i know exactly what pushrods to buy..
3. Wich bolts?

Or 4 , do I just contact Edlbrock and ask them to list me everything i need to bolt on ?

Or do you guys belive that simply buying a top end kit is the right way to go??
 

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Thank you guys,,
1. I've no idea what so ever how to check the geometry of rockers..
2. How do i know exactly what pushrods to buy..
3. Wich bolts?

Or 4 , do I just contact Edlbrock and ask them to list me everything i need to bolt on ?

Or do you guys belive that simply buying a top end kit is the right way to go??

And is it true that flat tappet cams need constantly adjusted??
Rocker geometry... The tip of the rocker should be fairly centered on the valve tip and the rocker should be fairly square to the stud at mid lift. The tip should also have minimal sweep across the valve tip as it goes through its lift cycle.

This is adjusted by changing pushrod length. A solid lifter (or old lifter taken apart and converted to solid) is used for testing purposes, and the engine is cycled over. If the rocker is fairly square, the tip is fairly centered, and there is less than 0.080" sweep, you're good. If not, an adjustable pushrod is used, and the length adjusted until these parameters are maximized. Measure the length of the pushrod, and order a set. Summit stocks common lengths of hardened pushrods. Edelbrock lists a pushrod part number in the specs for their heads, which is likely to be close for most applications.

I posted the proper ARP head bolts required for the Edelbrock heads.

When using locking rocker nuts, they do not need to be constantly adjusted. That is more of a maintenance issue when using solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters do not need to be checked very often, if ever.
 

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Has the later 50 oz-in balance. Will not bolt in place of the 289 without some changes.
Will need to make sure the balance is dealt with, and the fat 4-bolt harmonic dampner will need a different pully setup.

If a person was going to fool with this, Blueprint also has a 347 for about the same price, that would do a better job of moving that Galaxie around.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
N20mike...

Yeah and I'd have not known those changes would have needed addressed ..
I've been out of it ( wrenching) and playing with motors for a very long time
 

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I was contemplating your route but ultimately upgraded to a turnkey from blueprint, I weight the pros and cons and the budget my biggest factor was why add all new components if your not sure if the rest of the engine will be in the same condition or take the increased performance
Just my 2 cents
 

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Very Happy I went with BluePrint Engines you can get a turnkey 302 for less than 3500, if you add up time, money and part in my mind I was money ahead. I went with a 351w Bored and Stroked to 408
My accountant didn’t know how much I spent on mine till the bill arrived, that’s a story for a different day
 

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I went the other way with my 302. 1990 Mustang GT engine with 10K original miles. Took it apart, cleaned, added new bearings etc. Changed out the EFI to carb. Now I have a beautiful 240hp engine. I spent close to 3000. For an extra 5-600 I could have have some serious HP. Kinda wish I had bought a turnkey.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah I would love to go with the new crate motor currently saving to buy a new house, so spare money is quite tight at the moment I just want her to be reliable.
 
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