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I have a 1994 F-150 with a straight six sitting in it right now auto transmission. i'm going to be getting a 351w efi, i'm wanting to drop it in stock for now and do a few things later on to make it faster. I heard its pretty hard to get all the wiring to go right on efi, so i was wondering if it would be easier to go carb. I know efi has more hp and mpg, but i'm not looking to build a insanely fast motor, i also have a C4 transmission built to hold 800HP that i could use for the carb swap. I'm not really worried about mpg, i just want to know what would be easier to do.
 

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The ford stock Efi is a more reliable "start the truck and go" system as it adjusts automatically. If you had the donor computer and harness...it would be a direct swap. But harder to tune with upgrades especially on what I would guess to be the speed density system you would have on your truck and possibly on the swap...maf equipped hands down would be the one you would swap but once again the stock software can only adjust so much ...however a stock 351 in that generation wasn't a power house with efi. I would go carb as its easier to tune with the planned upgrades. And less stuff to go wrong. Or go a step further with a carb style intake but with a atomic Efi setup. Ford performance I think does make a stock Efi engine harness as does many other manufacturers.

Secondly do you plan to daily drive it? Daily driver...hands down efi. Fun toy? Carb.

-mike
 

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Also a stock system swap would allow you to keep the factory instrumentation and all the amenities. A carb swap would require new gages or some real handy wiring skills and understanding of electronics...I love electronical but making the stock stuff work on a carb...not exactly the easiest.

-mike
 

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I an an EFI nut, so that's how I would go, and a custom version at that so it would be fully tuneable from my phone. I am a tuning addict. :rolleyes: However, a carb can be a better choice depending on the owner's comfort level. I do not have the EVTM for the '94 F trucks, but I'll bet it's about he last year of direct-driven gauges (direct hookup to oil and temp sensors and speedo cable-driven). The tachometer (if you have one) may or may not have the ability to switch to 8-cylinder. If not, a replacement from the wrecker is a fairly easy job. Also, replacing the oil pressure sender with the old bulb style and soldering a jumper behind the gauge panel will make it work as a gauge. Starting in the early '90s, they actually function as an idiot light, showing either zero or 1/2 gauge. Period. :frown:

David
 
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