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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the "wiped cam lobe" post a few days ago and I did verify that the dist. is in with rotor at #1, and #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. New battery, dist, grounds, plug wires(routed correctly) plugs (.35) and points (.17) and coil.

Started and ran for about 30 sec. mostly because I kept goosing the throttle to keep it running. Need to at least get the cam broken in.

69 302 with some mods
with rebuilt manual choke autolite 4100 4bbl.

Having to pump the pedal makes me think fuel or vac related but I've double checked all vac lines and clamps and they're new and tight.

Any suggestions on what to check next?
 

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Just asking, so be nice. Have you checked the back of the carb for that tube they put back there? Also check the fuel pressure. It could be you have something in the tank being sucked up and cutting off the pumps suction. Or is the carb flooding so bad it's killing the engine? Check your vacuum hoses to make sure they are cracked or attached to a leak at the other end. I've seen this when a power brake's booster diaphram ruptures.
 

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Sure there is!

Open the points up to .35 like I suggested or, if you're not feeling cozy
with that at least go 3/4 of what you have for a plug gap and go to .26!

Ignore the dwell for the first little while, because you can set the dwell time later.

No vacuum leaks....

Plenty of fuel?

Valves too tight and hanging open? You should be able to twist your pushrods with your finger tips when you are at TDCC.

What direction is your rotor turning while cranking the engine? (I am not snubbing you just doing everything I would do at my shop)

Is the coil new or the original?

Did the coil get dropped or banged or layed aside during the engine rebuild?

Can you do it with a new coil and and a slightly gappier point setting?

FE
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, No offense taken...lots to learn. Falcon I mis-read your .35 as being plugs not points...sorry.

There is no tube at the back of carb other than the PCV in the spacer plate.

All vac lines are new with screw down band clamps.

Fuel pump and line to carb are new with 2 filters.

Not sure I have floats set correctly.

rotor turns CCW when pulley is turned CW.

New coil and wires

10gal fresh in the tank.

Pushrods spin at TDC.

I won't be able to start it again for several days due to work and night school but wanted to get some ideas for when I can spend a few hours this next weekend trying diff. things. I'll open up the points at least til then. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Don't forget one other thing.

If you are new to Fords they go like this. Cyl's 1 2 3 4 on the passengers side of the engine and 5 6 7 8 on the driver's side of the engine.
 

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Do not be afraid to have the engine run a few moments then shut it off again, wou will not overtly harm your engine.
 

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check your carb site holes (you'll need a buddy to keep goosing the throttle), is there fuel at the holes? what is your fuel pressure at the carb?
 

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I have to ask this -
First - check to see if it will run with the PCV hose plugged. If it does then replace the valve with the right one. Ford has two valves that look the same are one is for a 4 cyl. while the other one is for a V8. They work exactly opposite from each other and once in a while they get mispackaged or mispicked.
If that is ok then look to see if there is there any sign of extra fuel at the base of the carb when it dies? The Autolite carbs sometimes will pull fuel through the power valve and everything looks fine except that they suck fuel really fast. Run it for a few seconds and then pull the top off - are the bowls still full or are they draining? If they are draining replace the power valve and gasket.

Other than those two I have no other experiences that have not already been discussed.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone,
I won't be able to try it again until Saturday. See what I can find out.
 

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I was thinking valve adjustment..... are you runing adjustable or bolt down?
If your running hyd with adjustable rockers then you should not be able to turn the pushrods when at TDC.. as they should be under prusher by 1/4 to 1/2 turn from 0 last.
Tim
 

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Hay .35 is way big for point gap...... Dwell is only like 28 to 32 aint it?? isn't that more in the range of .17 gap??
Tim
 

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You might just neet to adjust the timming when you get it started might be way off. try moving it a little eather way.
if your setting your points wide like .35 as Falcon states then the points are opening sooner than they would at .17 So the timming well need to be adjusted to match it up. They won't run real good at TDC so mayed start it at like 10 deg. BTDC The Vacuum advance plays a part in the advance as well.. you might want to unhook and plug the vacuum advance (at the carb) untill you get it broken in. or make sure its in a 0 vacuum at idle spot (above the base plate of the carb).
good luck
tim
 

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Tim


I actually recommended .26 on his points in the last post and I like that #...

You say 10* and I agree with that.

Maybe his dist, is hooked to ported vacuum and when he cranks it up the dist is getting too much vacuum and advancing all the way, but way too early...

I'd love to get my hands on this engine, it's bugging the crap out of me.
 

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Why not adjust the idle screw up enough so it will stay running and get the cam broke in? Then you can set the initial and reset the idle and adjust the idle/air mix.

Since it ran with the plugs at .035" and points at .017" leave it alone for now.
 

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What camshaft is in it? Some people put 351W cams in 302s.
If it's for a 351W, then you will need to change the firing order, as 351W firing order is different to 302.
Just a possibility......
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I did turn the idle screw way in, and there is only one vac source on the carb which I assume would be for the dist. It's bugging me too. A member from another site suggested that the cheapo plug wires I had on it might be the culprit. I'm gonna go ahead and spring for a set of nice ones (might as well, everything else is new) and reduce the possibilities.

I'll chime back in Saturday. Gonna replace the plug wires, test the new fuel pump, check the float, plug the dist. vac. line and advance the timing and give it a few more tries. Let you know what I find. Thanks for hangin in there.
 

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We'll be waiting! I seriously doubt the wires are the culprit though...

See ya Sat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Interesting development...let me know what you think.
I'm using an autolite 4100. Broke one of the rebuild kit 4 hole autolite specific gaskets.
Switched to universal open gasket.
Was looking at bottom of carb tonight and noticed that the power valve hole, circuit holes below the butterfly, and some sort tube/jet looking holes in the center "diamond" of the carb base all communicate with each other through gaps in the primary bore walls. These areas would normally be sealed off from the intake by the autolite gasket, but right now are wide open to the intake. Is this my vac. problem? I have pics at photobucket...can I IMG them here so you can see what I'm talking about?
 

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The initial setup of the throttle plates on a 4 barrel are very important. If the rears are closed completly, you will cause the exact issue you have.... the engine sounds like it is starving for air.

The rear plates idle adjustment screw should be adjusted at 3/4 of a turn from the fully closed postition. The carb must be off the engine to make this adjustment.

The fronts.... the transfer slot should be partially exposed, so looking at it from the bottom of the carb, the transfer slot should look like a little square. How far out are your idle adjustment screws from fully turned in... count how many turns it takes to get where you are now. Each side.

I am not sure what your talking about in your last message, but I can help you there too. Photo would be great. But who rebuilt your carb? There are a dozzen places something can go wrong. But sounds like your throttle plates are set up wrong.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Mikes66 on 1/12/07 10:53pm ]</font>
 
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