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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Next weekend marks the start of our next project, a 302 into a '71 Pinto. I haven't seen all of the components yet, so not too sure what we're starting with. I have seen the car, is a nice straight little runabout. This is a family deal, car is going to be for a niece. Her, my nephew, his dad and I are going to be banging this thing out over the next 8 - 10 weekends with a goal of driving out of the garage by late December.

Nephew is fabricator by trade and is the one that did most of the grunt work for our '39 Studebaker Gasser project (now deceased) and was a major factor in getting my Falcon set up. He built the upper portion of the intake for my injection, frame connectors, etc. Point is, if it can be fabbed with steel or aluminum, we're covered.

I know this has been done before so I'm just looking for some heads ups from those that have gone before us. This is going to be a pretty mild street build, will most likely end up as her daily driver and probably run Sportsman at the track next spring.

Heater, radio, etc will all remain in the car. Firewall modification will be kept to a minimum for that reason. 302 will be carbed, C4 behind it, don't recall what I was told we'll be doing for the rear end. No cage, no tubs. Exhaust will be fabricated from the flanges out. I do have a front motor plate left over from the '39 project if that makes our lives easier.

How's about it? When you did yours, what worked and what didn't? Not looking for a step by step but if you have construction photo's I'd love to see them.

Thanks a pantsload.

Murff
 

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You are swapping out the gas tank for a fuel cell, aren't you? wink, wink, nudge, nudge, know what
i mean.... (in my best Eric Idle imitation) lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Aww, does that mean we'll have scrape off the 'Explodes on Impact' bumper sticker?

Murff
 

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There was a set of hooker headers for that application on Ebay a while back....I almost did that swap back in the late 80s.I had an engine and trans (302-C4)set into a 77 pinto and it looked pretty simple other than the exhaust.I was thinking about running the exhaust manifolds backwards but with headers readily available now it would be much easier.
 

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On 2006-09-29 19:40, Murff wrote:
Aww, does that mean we'll have scrape off the 'Explodes on Impact' bumper sticker?

Murff
Naw, leave the sticker that is too funny but do the cell.
Will she stomp it like this when she gets it?

Lucky girl. I saw a pinto sittng on the side of the road today while driving home all original and seemed as if it had been there for years in that very same spot.
Should be a fun project..
Ras Daniel


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Iethiopian on 9/30/06 10:39pm ]</font>
 

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So why do you need a fuel cell for a street car?
Since the installation of the plastic shield recall kit there hasn't been one recorded explosion of the tank. My good friends wife and 1 year old got rear ended by a old 3/4 ton Chevy truck at (CHP said) 75 MPH at a stoplight. He never hit the brakes. Yes the car was totally destroyed but the baby and his wife 'walked' away with bumps and bruises. No fire.
Anyways if you fuel cell it you'll loose any good trunk space left considering that you should at least put the battery back there. Plus having to pop the trunk every time you need to gas up ( what a hassle IMO)
If you dont put a cage in it then you NEED to at least run some sub frame connectors from the front "frame" to the front leaf spring perch. I welded my 1 1/2 x 3 rect tubing through the floor and then to the front leaf spring perch. If you dont do at least some form of connectors you WILL eventually tear the car up .Ive heard horror stories about the roof tearing at the top of the windshield near the door all the way across under repeated stress.
For the easiest rear end, get a late model V6 rear end out of a pinto. Bolt in. Its still 4 lug and has the weaker axles But your not dragging the car so it will hold up to street tires.
For engine mounts i didn't want the shaking of a solid plate mount so i got some Old style falcon mounts with the one bolt and found some Custom mounts from the late 70s that utilize them. Much eaiser and cheaper than finding Mustang II mounts.
If you can find them on ebay Use the Mustang II bellhousing,flywheel,and torque convertor. If you need a HOT convertor. It fits much better. Then you can contact http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/ in simi valley Calif. They use a stock Mustang II housing but beef it up with torrington bearings etc etc. Its tough to find an off the shelf with its 9 3/8 bolt pattern.
I Used those parts primarely so i could run mustang II headers. (Old blackjacks that I found on ebay never used. WELL i ended up modifying them completely, but i was estatic on the fit. They fit like they should Inside the frame rails, and tucked up nicely.
You can keep the C4 that you have if you replace the drums with a V8 C4 drum set, and 70 up valve body in it. Course rebuild it if it needs it. Again Ebay is great for parts.
If you want the Engine lower then you need to move the rack down. If i had a lowrise intake id be able to run a normal Air cleaner and also a stock hood. But my Edlebrock Airgap prevents that
Also a Milodon 8 quart Pan, although not sleeper material, looks cool IMO and will clear the rack wether or not you lower the rack.
Also if i hadnt lowerd the rack the MSD billet distrib wouldnt have cleared the hood. I lowered the engine about 1.5 and it barely clears.
For a starter that is awsome in fit form and function pick up a CSI Ford starter. The stock Starter barely clears as it is and in a lowered setup like mine, its positvely going to HIT.
Those are a few points that i can think of of the top of my head. For some other ideas Go to
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php?board=8.0
and check out the projects section I have some pics that you might want to just check out also if your so inclined.
Good luck and have fun!
Oh and by the way i wish i could have gotten finished in 8 months! almost 4 years and still counting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I knew there were some hardy souls on this board that had already gone through this. When finished, ours will probably fall somewhere between 64Tbolt and 7HotRod's installs.

On 2006-09-29 21:32, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
If you dont put a cage in it then you NEED to at least run some sub frame connectors from the front "frame" to the front leaf spring perch.
Subframe connectors will be fabbed and installed, probably just as you described which will end up similar to what we did on the Falcon.

On 2006-09-29 21:32, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
If you can find them on ebay Use the Mustang II bellhousing,flywheel,and torque convertor.
As I recall, that's an oddball flywheel and housing. 142 teeth, I think. Much smaller than the 157 / 164. I actually might have one of those bellhousings upstairs in the garage. Good tip, hadn't considered it.

On 2006-09-29 21:32, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
Also a Milodon 8 quart Pan, although not sleeper material, looks cool IMO and will clear the rack wether or not you lower the rack.
I think the plan is to notch a stock pan to clear the rack rather than to lower the rack. But once we get the car here and get down to some of the critical measurements that may change.

On 2006-09-29 21:32, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
Oh and by the way i wish i could have gotten finished in 8 months! almost 4 years and still counting.
Yeah, I think you mis-read that part. We're shooting for 3 months total, start to finish. Niece's birthday is 12/31 and the goal is to drive the car out of the garage on 12/30.

71, I checked out your photos and they are just what I was looking to see. You did a very nice job on your install, easy to see why it's taken you the ammount of time that it has.

I have kind of inherited this project and it's going to be a relative quickie. It's been in the "planning" stage for a few years now and she's getting restless for her car to get done. And I have ulterior motives. As I said in the OP my nephew is the fabricator in the family. Once the Falcon was running he started on another friends car, caging and back-halving a '63 Tempest. Now that car is about done so his welder comes back to my shop and while non-fab work is being done on the Pinto he can be finishing up my cage and rear firewall on the Falcon.

And, as the Pinto leaves in December, my nephews '37 Chev drag car comes in for a complete re-wire and to replace glass with plexi / Lexan.

I've got a lot on my plate for the next few months but we really don't want to be doing any last minute scrambles in the spring to get ready for the track. Ultimate goal is by mid February all four cars are complete and ready to go to the track. Gives us all a couple of weeks to relax while we wait for the rains to stop.

Thanks for the replies and if anyone else has anything to contribute, I be listenin'.

Murff
 

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1971 Pinto's had a weak steering system. They actually used some kind of highly wound up cable/wire for the steering shaft..........not good, after 30+ years of use, its probably almost ready to break!! Replace it with a steering shaft/colum from a late 1972 or 73 model, as they are regular solid steel shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, Torino.

Keep 'em comin' folks.

Murff
 

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hmm true, I'm still using mine without a hitch. But Ive thought of using a flaming river vibration isolator u joint from the rack (9/16x 36 spline x 3/4DD ) and some DD shaft then to another 3/4 double DD Uni and some more dd shaft into the column.
All i need is Money.. Oh and some More money ... Oh and some more
 

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correction should be 9/16 x 26 spline for non power racks.

Oh yeah just remembered a few things.
When you clearance the firewall for bell housing clearance dont use the big hammer method. You can damage the heater box very easily. I cut out a crude but effective clearance "hole" and then welded up the hole with some sheet metal to facilitate actually getting to the top trans bolts with the engine in the car.
The 71 didn't come with a front sway bar. And the suspension and brakes are 3 year only setup. And small 9" disk at that.(unless you have drums). If you have the funds id get a wilwood disk brake setup. $600 +.
If not then at least rebuild the whole braking system. New lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hardware etc etc. And for good lines get some earls or Russell Universal brake lines and the appropriate adapters at each end. Also For brake pads on the 71 setup the Porterfield AP36-R4S $72/set from
http://www.RaceShopper.com are supposed to give 20% better stop.
The 71-73 suspension bushings are not the same as the 74-80. Its similar but not easily interchangeable. Racer Walsh used to carry some high density rubber bushings for the 71. But you'd have to call them on that.
If youd like some Poly bushings for the leafs then get a 64 mustang setup. The front eyes plop right in like they should, the rears are too big in dia. Pintos are 1.0". Mustangs are 1 3/8 Dia. Just mount the 1 3/8 bushings in a mandrel and spin them with a drill up against a belt sander or grinder till you get a snug fit. Just be warned they are not all EXACTLY 1.0" measure accordingly the rear leaf eyes and the bolt on eye mount.
The trans crossmember works with a V8 trans mount if you turn it around and of course drill the appropriate holes for the mount.
Unless you set the engine back you can use the stock drive shaft with some good HD U joints.

All i can think of for now.

_________________
71 Pinto Sedan

5.0 block,B303,1.7 Rockers,beehives,'68 ported heads,Coated custom Must II headers,Edlb Airgap,Holley570,Msd Billet,Crane HI 6,Milodon 8 quart Deep Pan,2.5" 40 Flowmasters.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 71hotrodpinto on 10/2/06 1:09am ]</font>
 

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On 2006-10-01 09:20, TorinoStyle2 wrote:
71hotrodPinto....how fast is your car??
Well ive had it up to 20mph coasting it down the street ! LOL!
Still have some loose ends to tie up before i fire it up.
Sigh, sucks not having a garage of my own and no one really supporting me on the family side to help me get this thing done.
I had it at my friends house for 3 years while i did the lions share of work then i had to move it to my father n laws whose closer. He did it cause my wife asked him. When my wife and i got into a fight she cried to him, and he told me to get it out. (****)
SO its back at the apartment and im trying to finish the last few wiring issues.
I imagine that it would be a high 12 low 13 with some drag radials and a posi. But I dont have a posi or traction aids yet.
So that would probably limit me to a low 14 or high 13's with proper tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
71Pinto, I've been there.

When my 1st wife and I divorced I had a '65 Mustang, a '51 Ford F1 pickup with a 351C and a '70 Torino GT convert, also a C. She got the Mustang, the F1 was my daily driver and the Torino had been an ongoing project. She had the gall to come out as I was packing up the garage and tell me she was legally entitled to 1/2 of the Torino. I told her I would sell it tomorrow for ten dollars, she could have $5 and kiss my ass.

I kept the convert but it lived in a 10 x 20 storage room for the next year and a half. Actually built the engine, installed it and installed the upholstry in that storage room. Eventually got space in a buddys garage where I was able to finish.

So hang in there! It will get better.

Murff
 

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Yah still hangin, LOL
Did the storage peps ever hassle you about working on the car in the storage unit??
Ive thought about that many many times but the 10x 20s in my area are around 300 to 400 a month!!!! Hell 5 years ago in the same area that was RENT for a 1 bed apart. Now its near 1000 and thats been cutting into car part $$. Thank god its almost running.
 

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Awesome , I hope you can post some pics and maybe a video of the run!
I love the early pintos. ( I know.. I have issues. LOL)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On 2006-10-01 14:32, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
Yah still hangin, LOL
Did the storage peps ever hassle you about working on the car in the storage unit??
Ive thought about that many many times but the 10x 20s in my area are around 300 to 400 a month!!!! Hell 5 years ago in the same area that was RENT for a 1 bed apart. Now its near 1000 and thats been cutting into car part $$. Thank god its almost running.
The storage facility I used was a 24 hour access and most of my work was done between 6 PM and 2 AM. No hassles. There were guys there running wood shop type businesses out of those rooms.

I do need to add that this was about 17 years ago, storage room was $80 per month. I haven't priced one lately, I imagine 300 - 400 is probably accurate for around here, too. What a racket. Wish I had invented the storage room.

Sometimes having a garage is a pain too. Took me all day today to get mine cleaned up to make room to work on the Pinto.

Aw, I probably bitch too much.

Murff
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
We have begun!

Pinto is in the shop. Hoods off, rack is loose, doors are off, seats are out, heater and related duct work is all out.

Turns out the C4 that appeared with the pile o' parts is from a V8 Mustang II. Has the small bellhousing. The 164 tooth plate I have would make a nice 'lid' for this housing but it sure ain't gonna fit in it.

A small flexplate has been sourced for about $60. Haven't checked availability of the convertor tho'. Did I understand in one of these posts that the convertor for this small pattern is going to be a sucker to find? Don't need a high stall convertor and really don't want to drop $400 - $600 for a custom. Engine is going to be mild with a 2V carb.

I have a bell that will fit the 157 / 164 tooth wheel but it is obviously larger in diameter. The current plan is to use the bigger housing, carve into the firewall, reinvent the heater and ducting, fabricate and install a lower, smaller bolt in front cross member (similar to what we did in the Falcon) and drop the rack to match. Do the control arms need to be lowered to match to avoid bump steer?

I do enjoy beginning a new project, and unlike the Falcon this one will be done with someone else's money. Hoo-ah.

Murff
 
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