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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I’m a forum user from Brazil, a city called Curitiba (yeahh!), and I own a 74 Ford Maverick with a 302 Windsor. I bought the car one year ago and now it is time to rebuild the engine (check my video on YT = SMOKE)
Maverick V8 302 Dinamômetro - YouTube

This car is very rare in Brazil and parts are extremely expensive around here, so I want to share with you the engine project to get some opinions. Currently all I’ve bought is a Milodon HV water pump, new clutch press plate and clutch bearing, so no engine parts so far.

Below there is my current idea (not enough cash to build it in one shot):

-Stage 1:
Carb: Stock (2 barrel)
Intake manifold: Stock
Conn rod: Stock (5.090")
Crankshaft: Stock
Pistons: Keith Black 116
Piston rings: Cast
Block: Stock – unknown overbore.
Cylinder Head: Stock - New valve springs, locks and plates
Camshaft: SpeedPro CS-1020R Dur. @0.050 214/224 .472/.496 (with 1.6 rockers)
Lifters: Procomp PC2952
Oil pump: New. Melling. Std volume
Coolant pump: New. Milodon HV
Ignition: Procomp distributor PC7002– already installed
Coil: Pertronix Flamethrower II – already installed
Ignition cables: 8.0mm Pertronix Flamethrower – already installed
Bushing: New. Clevite
Bearings: New. Clevite
Seals: New, made of brass.
Gaskets: New. Victor Reinz.
Exhaust headers: Patriot long
Electric fan
180°F thermostat
ARPs for connrods, flywheel, main bearings and cylinder heads.
Bouble roller timing chain set

-Stage 2:
EFI
Intake manifold
MSD 6AL or similar
Aluminum radiator

-Stage 3:
Cylinder heads: Procomp Aluminum 60cc chamber; 210cc intake. 2.02" int 1.60" exh valves
Rockers: 1.6 full roller
Matched ports for intake and exhaust.

At a different store I found Silv-o-lite 3101h pistons, Comp Cams 31-414-3 and FelPro gaskets the rest is pretty much the same.

Just so you have an idea: a set of 8 of these KB 116 cost US$ 880,00 in Brazil!!!!

I am running 3.31:1 final gear and intend to put a T-5 later...

So, will it match??

I am planning on removing the engine from the car begining of March.
 

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Be careful when building an engine in phases like this. Some parts won't complement others like the heads for instance. They are way too much for your cam, compression ratio and possibly intake depending on what you choose.

A head for a high compression, big cam motor will suck the life out of a low compression small cam engine. You'd be better off with something like an AFR165 or similar with smaller valves and ports.

I'd go with an Edlebrock Performer and small 4bbl carb like a Holley 600 with vacuum secondaries on your first build with that cam choice. That cam will be all but unnoticed without a better manifold and carb.

In my opinion the Pertronix system you already have is as good or better than the MSD. Save the money for something else.

Do you know your target compression ratio? For a 95% street car I'd suggest something in the 9.5:1 to 10:1 range.

The most important thing is to know what are your plans for the car, street, street/strip, road racing, etc? Everything must be compatable or the results won't be very impressive and you'll waste a lot of money trying to get it right - trust me I've been done that road. :eek:

You also might consider lower (higher numerically) gears if performance is you goal. A little money spent in the rearend goes a LONG way in better performance, even on nearly stock engines.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply 65FalconLover!!

Actually very helpfull. One other option I am considering is to build it all at once and later upgrade one or another part.

The target compression ratio is 10:1, the Gasoline in Brazil can handle it. The use may be 95% street, 4% trackday and 1% drag strip, of course TDs and Drag racing just for fun...

As you said the ProComp heads might too big for my "base engine" setup, but AFRs are impossible to find in Brazil, so the final price is absurd. I can port and increase valves in my stock head (64cc chamber) and stainless steel 1.94/1.60 valves.

I'm working hard to get the 600cfm carb and a RPM performer kind of intake.

Thanks again!
 

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What about the iron GT40 heads. They should be pretty easy to get and cheap since they were used on lots of Mustangs and Explorers. They flow pretty well and already have the 1.94/1.60 valves. I had them on my 289 for years. They will easily support 300 HP or a bit more.

My 289 had those and a cam similar to the one you mentioned, along with 9.5:1 compression, Edlebrock Performer RPM and a 600 cfm Holley and the Pertronix II in a stock distributer and it made about 300 HP at the crank (245 HP at the rear wheels).

As I mentioned below you'll gain lots by going lower in the rearend gears and with an automatic trans you'll be much happier with a looser converter, even with that fairly small cam. Of course if you swap to a manual trans that won't be an issue.

Good luck!

John
 

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Are you using straight ethanol or a gasoline/ethanol blend?

David
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What about the iron GT40 heads. They should be pretty easy to get and cheap since they were used on lots of Mustangs and Explorers. They flow pretty well and already have the 1.94/1.60 valves. I had them on my 289 for years. They will easily support 300 HP or a bit more.

My 289 had those and a cam similar to the one you mentioned, along with 9.5:1 compression, Edlebrock Performer RPM and a 600 cfm Holley and the Pertronix II in a stock distributer and it made about 300 HP at the crank (245 HP at the rear wheels).

As I mentioned below you'll gain lots by going lower in the rearend gears and with an automatic trans you'll be much happier with a looser converter, even with that fairly small cam. Of course if you swap to a manual trans that won't be an issue.

Good luck!

John
Nice tip John, I'll try to look for some scrapped Mustang and Explorers here, but also very hard to find!

300hp @ crank is good enough to enjoy the car :D !!

The car has Manual Transmission.

Are you using straight ethanol or a gasoline/ethanol blend?

David
Hi David,

I decided to keep using gas/ethanol blend, mainly because:
- Ethanol price is quite high now;
- Where I live the winter is a bit cold, so start-up would be problematic;
- I believe the 7% of water in our ethanol will be too agressive for my engine components.

Nowadays gas stations are selling gasoline with 20% ethanol blend.

On Monday, March 5th, I will remove the engine from the car and start working. Since I don't know the overbore dimensions after measuring I will have plenty of time to dedicate to all areas of the engine before parts arrive from USA. The body will be sent to a body shop for additional stiffening and suspension upgrades such as "Shelby Drop" and new polyurethane bushings...

I'll keep you guys posted!

Thanks

ps.: I just found the "Instant e-mail notification" setting, so my replies will be quicker now...sorry!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So, on Monday the engine was removed and then disassembled.

The spark plugs and the smoke already indicated something strange...the 8th piston didn't have oil rings!!! The fan was incredibly loose, the crankshaft damper was dry and the timing chain had some "excessive play" too.

The block is already .030 over in the cylinders and the bearings are for .010 undersize.

I'm pretty sure bearings .020 over will do the job, but the cylinders I don't know if .040 will eliminate some of the marks...so I am considering going for 0.060 over. What do you think?
 

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