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I have this 11:1 347 in a '66 fairlane edelbrock wp rev rotation fox mustang belt drive champion 4 row radiator with dual fans and shroud. This thing get to 230 sitting still after awhile a little faster with the ac on. I've added a shop fan to the equation with little to no help. I am using a mr gasket t stat believe is 185 also by pass hose and heater core hooked up with no shut off valve on heater core. I am about to block off the heater and by pass completely and install a restrictor in the water outlet to force all water through this million dollar radiator that isn't currently helping me. My question is do these sbf need a bypass system with higher horse engine and living in houston tx. I understand that the wp needs to circulate all the time but living in Texas I think I understand that I need all the help I can get cooling this thing down. Oh yea I have the cyl head gaskets install with the "FRONT" in the front of the block on both sides and have performed a block test to check for blown head gaskets, none found. Please advise with your combo that works and your climate. Thank you.
 

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Your radiator should cool you fine, even in mid-day heat and in traffic. The weak point must be identified, so we would need more info on your setup, such as:

  1. Have you tested your temperature gauge for accuracy?
  2. When do temps rise - idle only? Cruising? WOT?
  3. When do temps reduce? Or do they only ever climb under any conditions?
  4. Is your RR water pump being driven in reverse by the belt?
  5. Do you have any belt slippage?
  6. What is your electrical system voltage at idle, with fans and lights on?
  7. What fans are you using?
  8. When the fans run, do they turn the correct direction? Are the blades correct for that direction?
  9. What ON/OFF settings (1 or both and what temps)?
  10. Is your thermostat installed backwards?
  11. Have you tested your thermostat to begin opening at 180° and fully open by 195°? Mr. Gasket does not make a 185° T-stat. Verify the temp stamped on the bottom.
  12. What fuel are you using?
  13. What is your base (curb idle) ignition timing, and max mechanical timing at what RPM?
  14. Does your ignition use vacuum advance or electronic version of it?
These answers should indicate if your problems are related to airflow, coolant flow, ignition timing, etc. - or a combination.

David
 

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hello;


how hot does it get at 40 mph and above?

are your fans chinese?

how many amps are they?

how wide is your rad?

without the dist vacuum hose connected

what is your initial timing?

what is your timing at at 1600 rom?

what is max timing?

what rpm does it reach max timing?

what brand are your fans?

how far is the engine bored?

is block an old ford or a dart or ford racing?

you likely need factory fans and a bigger rad. the chinese ones like champion hold less water than a us made one.

at the moment i see a big pricey rad in your future like a 20" dual or tripple pass 4 row or 2 rows with 1" tubes and either ford contour fans or the killer mk 7 fan.

if you have a 17" rad it will never ever cool in a month of sundays with an old ford block and ac in 80 degree plus heat.

if the water fittings are on the same side you can relocate one to the opposite side.

you also need a 192 premium stant thermostat or high flow one.

10% anti freeze 90 % water.

1 bottle of water wetter

anode for rad.

if you have an auto trans you can install an external trans cooler.

www.usradiator.com

www.coolcraft.com

griffen
 
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