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Very informative thread in regards to the differences in how to arrive at a 347 stroker. The information about the differences in pin size, how they have addressed the issues with the pin/ring intersection.

You see all the time on forums the debate of which stroker; the 331 vs. the 347 with some citing fears of oil consumption vs. others don't worry about it.
This thread tells you why not to worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Im so glad you mentioned pin size I have rods which are .927 so thank you mentioning this I was looking at rods that were this size but more by luck then judgement.

The machine guy who doing my block is proper old skool his machine work is precise everything he does is super accurate and as ex toolmaker myself I know he is good. But if asked him to machine block heated think he would tell me to get lost, but I can understand what you say.

Quick question Barnett what did you mean by "i also run most of my engines at 180 or 185 as opposed to 192 for several reasons."

Time to shop for pistons, I reckon.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I would like to thank you guys for your time its appreciated.

My car is the 65 car featured in the dvd produced by the speed channel called ford muscle, victory by design.
My car was used in the filming of it where they comparing 65 car to 2005 car where Alain de Cadenet drove car round small hill climb circuit in wales Uk and had just finished the main restore was auto car here and its now 5 speed manual amongst so many other things but still looks exactly the same as in this program.

Jon
 

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... Time to shop for pistons, I reckon.
Perhaps, if you have done the prior steps. The choice of piston and resulting compression ratio is primarily based on:

  1. The chosen fuel. After determining the primary use of the engine and operating requirements, this choice is the basis for the entire engine build.
  2. The chosen camshaft and timing, based on a bunch of factors, and determined by #1.
  3. Other compression modifiers, such as deck height, actual chamber CCs, head material, induction temperatures and pressure, etc.
While builders often swap steps, it then becomes a compromise, rather than a choice of the best part. So, plan as much as you can, by answering as much as you can, and then make your parts list based on those choices and resulting plan. For example, by knowing the fuel and chosen camshaft to meet performance goals, The heads can be chosen, and then the dynamic compression can be calculated to fit those well for best performance, which will then tell you the static compression (piston choices) you can make. Whew. ;)

This is important, as your block machining cannot be done correctly until you know what you're putting in it, what dimensions those parts are, and the clearances and finishes they need to work right. You can't determine what exact bore diameter you need until you know what pistons you will use, what they're made from, and each of their diameters. The finish that should be used on the bores is then unknown until you know what ring material and type you are using.

What Ra finish should the block decks have? Well first the deck height itself depends on the complete rotating assembly you're using and head gasket thickness. Then the finish needs to be the correct one for the gasket in the previous step, as (for example) MLS and composite gaskets should have deck finishes specific to the type, to help avoid leakage or blown gaskets. And the list goes on, with answers necessary far in excess of grocery-getter engines, if the engine is to perform to it's full capability.

Machining is one of the last steps in a build, and based on all this stuff that goes before it. Take your time, and focus on what you need the engine to do, and the build plan will take shape.
:tup:
David
 

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as far as piston brand goes, if you are not running a blower, i would run the low silicone type pistons like the je srps or mahles.

as far as rings go, i would run good mahles on mahle pistons or the je's i posted on je pistons.

measure the pistons before boring . . as mentioned, read the instructions very carefully . . i like to bore them in the tight side and break them in for 500 miles before i beat on it and keep the engine cool with a good cooling system and the 180-185 thermostats.

the mahles are not normal pistons . . they have a special coating so they get bored to extremely tight tolerances . . do not bore them looser than spec . . mercedes uses them . . most piston mfgs give different tolerances for mild street, high perf street, and another for racing . . i don not know if mahle does . . i would contact them directly for clearance info if there is only one spec given

as you know from your bikes, running a tight bore hard on a hot engine will not be pretty . . patience is a virtue and engine saver . . this is obviously not a bike you can re-ring in a few hours plus i would guess you do not want to rebuild it again...ever, lol.

after the tight bore and slow break in, these rings will last a very, very long time.

i would be a bit hesitant about doing a full plateau finish especially if your guy is nit experienced at it . . i would prefer to have greater likely hood of a good ring seal and give up an additional 10,000 miles of ring life if the rings will last for maybe 60 or 70k anyway.

be aware that many rings require "file" fitting . . i have done this a zillion times but i hate it . . unless yiu have done it and have the proper tool you might consider buying pre-fit rings . . it is eady to break the moly off the ring . . after grinding, the edges need to be debured . . one problem with this is that je does not have pre fit rings for these pistons for some reason.

after the break in, i would seriously consider switching to royal m purple xpr or xps oil . . it has a boat load of zddp and other fancy stuff.

i don't believe in 5w-15 oils for street cars . . even though it is synthetic, i would run around 15w-30 . . you will maybe get 2 million miles out of your engine with it or at least more than you would with good non synthetic.

i would not use mobil 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
All very good advice.
Oil wise on bike i use ams oil or motul.
In car i use Torqo.

I have drawn up engine with what im thinking with quench etc, for head gasket thickness I have used 0.042" felpro. I do not know thickness of other gaskets.
Fuel wise nothing special normal pump fuel.

Jon
 

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All very good advice.
Oil wise on bike i use ams oil or motul.
In car i use Torqo.

I have drawn up engine with what im thinking with quench etc, for head gasket thickness I have used 0.042" felpro. I do not know thickness of other gaskets.
Fuel wise nothing special normal pump fuel.

Jon
if your pistons are more than .005" below the block surface you might consider running thinner ones . . cometic makes them but they are very pricey . . if you but cometics you can get them the same size as your bore which is nice sand preferred but a bit anal for a street car . .most fel pro type gaskets have a large 4.100 id which seems a bit dumb to me since you can't bore a windsor to more than .060.

you can run quench/squish clearance as low as .035" with decent parts and less than 8,000 rpm . . .042 is the max i like to see . . some others don't consider "quench" at all and often have as much as .060 on na engines.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
After much consideration i have gone for Mahle pistons and will deck block to suit.
Just waiting for them to arrive.

Thanks Jon.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well pistons are having to be sent again paperwork or something so still waiting.

So working on bike just made billet engine breather that sits between rear frame rails.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It's right hand side back of bike machined piece billet to fit in frame rails to got to make cover and weld it together. Proper neat, light good use of space.

Pistons arrived today, can get rotating assembly balanced Now.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hello all its about time I posted and update it has being quite few months since I last posted.
Well not being good news really but had a small result yesterday.
The guy who imported my Crank, rods, flywheel and damper went missing.
I finally tracked him down and found him, paid him an un expected visit I got my pistons back and money.
So now all I have is 80 roller block and mahle 347 stroker pistons.
But do have friend shipping a pick up next month so I have small window to get parts bought and packed into this truck, so looking for advice on good deals or if anyone has anything.

I have spent this time getting bike finished and few repairs on mustang, she is running and looking really good.

Thank you for your time Gents.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Hi All,

It has being a long time since I have being on here.
I have finally finished the new engine and in process of running it in.
So far im so impressed its super smooth and drives effortlessly, real pleasure to drive so glad Ive done it.
Not stamped on it yet.

I would like to say big thank you for all advice.


Happy Jon.
 
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