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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking at connecting rod's on Ebay...I beam,H beams lots of different manufacturer's it's kind of mind boggling.Then there's the stock rods with arp bolts as well as the truck rods...I'm hoping to get somewhere between 400 and 450Hp out of my [email protected] 6500rpm or less, but I don't want to be right on the edge of rod failure in case I ever want to add a small 100 hp shot of nitrous or something...Any thoughts?
 

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using the football rods with an arp rod bolt will handle 400-500 easy, rattle the motor with a shaky tuneup on nitrous and good luck. On the flipside a scat or eagle hbeam would be your best bet. If you are going to use an aftermarket rod with a floating pin, 99% of the time you will need to have the pin end resized as they are always too tight.
 

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i used to shift at 7000 on stock rods with arp bolts for years. no problem. but to do stock rods you must buy the bolts, have the rods reconditioned, and bush the small end. how much to just buy the good rods with all that already done? not a whole lot more than redoing stock rods if you shop around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
igo1090 you bring up another good question along with all the other options....Bushed or pressed fit pins?

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1968 mustang J code 302 [email protected] Windsor build underway

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: frdnut on 7/29/06 5:05am ]</font>
 

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You dont have to have them bushed...

You can just heat the rods up and pretty much slip the wrist pin through them.

Bushed isn't recommended on stock rods, you end up weakening them. Theres a guy floating (ha) around here that knows a little about bushing rods, and whether its good or not. He built a tough engine or two on "stock" parts back in the day.
 

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Bushings are "really" not needed....but a good idea. Usually the rods are cast iron or cast steel and some cheaper piston mfg's use "softer" material for wristpins. I've run more than one set of stock rods (in different brands of engines...BBC, SBC, BBMopar, and a 302 Ford) just by honing the small end out with a brake cylinder hone. Not the best way to do it, but it worked. BTW, all 4 stroke ATV and MC engines that I have seen are this way....no bushing. Just a forged rod with a pin stuck through it. Friend of mine has done this for 50+ years with great success...in 428 Fords and probably close to a hundred or so 440 Chryslers.
 

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First you need to know if the pistons are machined for floating pins. They have machined grooves for retaining locks.

The Eagle SIR rods are a good bang for the buck. I've seen the press fit for $199 before.
I use them in a 530-550 hp 393 and have worked flawless
 

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By the time you recon, polish, add bolts and bush stock rods its usually cheaper or not much more to buy a set of scat or eagle h-beams. just my 2 cents
 

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On 2006-07-28 15:49, mavman wrote:
I've run more than one set of stock rods (in different brands of engines...BBC, SBC, BBMopar, and a 302 Ford) just by honing the small end out with a brake cylinder hone.
 

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What? Hey...it works, never had a minute's problem, and it's cheap. Jeez...just because I didn't go spend $1700 on a set of Olivers you're going to dis me?? LOL...like I said, EVERY 4 stroke atv and bike engine is built this way. Perhaps they need to put bushings in them too!
 

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Buy a set of Scat or Eagle H-Beams. You'll sleep better.

FYI - all 428 (and other FE) Fords come from the factory with floating pins and bronze bushings...

302 Z28 Camaros had non-bushed steel on steel rods/pins - - so the technique will work. A brake hone is more than a little "back porch tech" though....

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BarryR on 8/1/06 9:55am ]</font>
 

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Its pretty easy to fit a non-bushed rod with a toaster oven. No press required.

If you do go the home-bushed route, make sure and drill an oiling hole on the small end. Don't remember what size....
 
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