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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone here have any actual experience milling and drilling a two bolt main cap block for four bolt main caps?

I have a pristine, standard bore, two-bolt block ... and I have a set of four-bolt maincaps in hand.

I know the strength of a two bolt block is not a problem ... Just trying to determine whether to drill the two bolt block or sell the caps ... They seem to bring a few bucks on eBay


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Larry Madsen
Las Vegas Nevada



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 4/23/02 1:56pm ]</font>
 

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2 bolt Clevelands are strong enough. You might need to get it align bored/honed? afterwards. Sell them, they do bring good coin on ebay, or pick up how to rebuild your 351C book, it had pix and an article in it on how to do it.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks Rick ... I think I'm leaning your way ... I'm a little upset that the 4 bolt maincaps are from my numbers matching block, which has a problem I just can't get myself to trust.


Building a 351C Australian ... Already build a Nasty Ass 351C 4V which is in the car now ...This one will be a streetable daily driver type motor.

No real need for the 4 bolt ... Just hate the idea that the numbers matching block is trash
 

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Look at the main webs by the cap bolts. IF you find"lumps" in the webs, where the outside bolts would go, you have a block that can easily accept the 4 bolt caps. DO NOT try to drill the holes by hand!! Take block & caps to a quality machine shop for drilling, tpaing, cap cliping, and line boreing/honing.wWe've done several and you can't tell them from factory.
 

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does anyone know of a good machine shop that can turn a two bolt main block to a four bolt main block for a 351 Cleveland around the WV area?
 

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Look at the main webs by the cap bolts. IF you find"lumps" in the webs, where the outside bolts would go, you have a block that can easily accept the 4 bolt caps. DO NOT try to drill the holes by hand!! Take block & caps to a quality machine shop for drilling, tpaing, cap cliping, and line boreing/honing.wWe've done several and you can't tell them from factory.

I split a liner in my original Boss 351 block back in the mid 1970's!
I found a date correct Cleveland block and had the 4 bolt caps added to the Cleveland block! The end results looked great but when the block was line bored it moved the
crank to close to the cam! This engine would eat timing chine's faster than you could put them in! I talked to Bob Glidden about my problem, he said he would never recommend line boring any ford block!
 

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I split a liner in my original Boss 351 block back in the mid 1970's!
I found a date correct Cleveland block and had the 4 bolt caps added to the Cleveland block! The end results looked great but when the block was line bored it moved the
crank to close to the cam! This engine would eat timing chine's faster than you could put them in! I talked to Bob Glidden about my problem, he said he would never recommend line boring any ford block!
hello

that makes no sense, lots of engines run lots of miles with worn chains which is exactly the same thing and lots of engines have line bores with no chain probs.

did you buy a shorter chain and gear set?

did you buy high quality us made chains and gears?

if you used synthetic oil or even possibly regular oil without zddp it might cause premature chain failure.
 

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I split a liner in my original Boss 351 block back in the mid 1970's!
I found a date correct Cleveland block and had the 4 bolt caps added to the Cleveland block! The end results looked great but when the block was line bored it moved the
crank to close to the cam! This engine would eat timing chine's faster than you could put them in! I talked to Bob Glidden about my problem, he said he would never recommend line boring any ford block!

They must have cut the HELL out of it ROFL.
 

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They must have cut the HELL out of it ROFL.
If your thing is a sloppy timing chain that has to be changed every 4000 miles go ahead and line bore your block! I made that mistake once and no way I will ever do it again! juat trying to a=save this guy some hassle

You two idiots don't need to be such /a holes!
 

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No conflict here, as everyone is just stating facts as they know them.

  • Fact - you had an engine that ate timing chains. It was also line-honed.
  • Fact - most line-honed engines have no timing chain issues.
  • Fact - although line honing is usually .002" to .005", they can occasionally be deeper, and shorter chain sets are made just for this purpose.
No arguments, just some facts. One fact we do not know is why it ate your chains. Since they don't normally do that; without more information we don't know why yours did.

David
 

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No conflict here, as everyone is just stating facts as they know them.
the chain set below is designed for line hones that move the crank up a MINIMUM of .005". it should not be used on line hones that are less than .005". it has been made for as long as i remember. .005" is a lot for a line hone. i have never seen the caps out by this much even when they were not orig to a block.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3121-10/overview/make/ford


as mentioned, slightly loose chains do not get eaten in 4000 miles if the chain and gears were installed at the same time, however, you can not put a new chain on worn gears or worn gears on a new chain. if you do it will cause premature chain wear.

if you have a NEW chain that you can deflect a total of 1/2" or more side to side, i would not run it.

If any machine shop line bores a block and does not tell a customer that they should run a shorther chain, they are negligent.

if any machine shop line bores a block more than around .007" without telling the customer that their timing chain will be loose even if they use a shorter chain, well...i would find a new shop.
 

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Does anyone here have any actual experience milling and drilling a two bolt main cap block for four bolt main caps?

I have a pristine, standard bore, two-bolt block ... and I have a set of four-bolt maincaps in hand.

I know the strength of a two bolt block is not a problem ... Just trying to determine whether to drill the two bolt block or sell the caps ... They seem to bring a few bucks on eBay


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Larry Madsen
Las Vegas Nevada



[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 4/23/02 1:56pm ]
hello;

i'm not sure what your question is.

you can not drill them by hand.

you must have them line honed.
 

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Holy Thread Revival!!

MonsterMach, wish I could give you a thumbs up for still being here after 12 1/2 years!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Holy Thread Revival!!

MonsterMach, wish I could give you a thumbs up for still being here after 12 1/2 years!!
I sold the main caps on eBay ;)

That motor (the one in question on the thread here) was build and ran in the Mach1 for a few years and was then removed and traded to another FordMuscle member. It then ran in his 70 Torino ... I don't know the current status.

I traded the 351C and headers for a set of aluminum heads for the 460 in the Mach1 currently.

Since we are into nostalgia here on this one ... here is the car in this video clip and it's actually My427stang (above) at the wheel ;)

 

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If your thing is a sloppy timing chain that has to be changed every 4000 miles go ahead and line bore your block! I made that mistake once and no way I will ever do it again! juat trying to a=save this guy some hassle

You two idiots don't need to be such /a holes!
Wow, take it easy, didn't mean to upset you, truthfully. If anything, I was mostly calling out your machinist not you. That guy did it wrong, although really I was only making the comment that they must have cut a lot out for that much play.

It sounds like what they did for your block ruined it, won't argue with that, but I have probably 100 under my belt that didn't do that. Matter of fact any cross bolt conversion, splayed cap conversion, spun main, replacement cap, you just do not have a choice but to cut the mains. How it's done is like any other repair, some guys can break a bowling ball in a sand box, others make art.

As far as the idiot comment, I think it was uncalled for on your part, nowhere did I say anything against you and I don't appreciate it.

I sold the main caps on eBay ;)

That motor (the one in question on the thread here) was build and ran in the Mach1 for a few years and was then removed and traded to another FordMuscle member. It then ran in his 70 Torino ... I don't know the current status.

I traded the 351C and headers for a set of aluminum heads for the 460 in the Mach1 currently.

Since we are into nostalgia here on this one ... here is the car in this video clip and it's actually My427stang (above) at the wheel ;)

Larry I miss those days, been a long time since I had weekends to hang out with you and Maria. I figure 5 more years or so and I'll call it quits and figure out what to do when I grow up. Getting closer to the time I want to slow it down again.

Any headway on the Camaro, 4x4 or Effie?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Larry I miss those days, been a long time since I had weekends to hang out with you and Maria. I figure 5 more years or so and I'll call it quits and figure out what to do when I grow up. Getting closer to the time I want to slow it down again.

Any headway on the Camaro, 4x4 or Effie?
A little headway on the Camaro ... I've collected a few parts for the 4X4, not really any progress ... nothing on the effie and (as you are likely aware from posts here on FM) I got started on the Mach1 repair but then was sidetracked with the home remodel.

This remodel will take me another year or so, but when it's complete the situation here will be much improved. I'll then be able to focus time and $$$ on some of the *hobby* stuff. ;)

As you know, you and the family are always welcome here should you make it out to Vegas again. BTW, just saw Darrell a couple of days ago up in Utah, he is really doing well for himself.

I glad to hear you are staying with it for another five years. It's good to know there are folks like you committed to what you do for us ... Thank you for your service :)

 
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