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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Ive built a 351c last year but I have not have hade time to dyno it. Its now in the car so it will dynoed later this spring. What can I expect from this build ?

351c std block new bearings, cleaned up etc. over 0.30 bored
2v CHI Heads 10.1 Compression
sealed power pistons
Refurbished rods and crankshaft
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
750 Holley double pumper
Hooker Long tube headders
2.5 inch exhaust H-pipe with Hooker aerochamber mufflers
MSD distribuitor with 6al box
ARP bolt on rods , heads ,etc
High flow water pump and high flow thermostat robert shaw
Howards Roller rockers
Crankshaft polished, and balanced with damper and flexplate
Camshaft Type: Hydraulic Flat Tappet Howard
Duration Exhaust: 281
Duration Intake: 281
Duration at 050 Exhaust: 227
Duration at 050 Intake: 227
Intake Centerline: 104
Lobe Separation: 108
RPM Range: 2400 to 6000
Valve Lift Exhaust: .542
FMX transmission with stall 2500 3.5 rear gears beefed up

The car is a Mach 1 from 73 :)

Regards Rob
 

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375 or so at the crank is what I'm thinking, add more duration and lift if you want power, 250 @ 50.. Iron heads need more duration to make power.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
375 or so at the crank is what I'm thinking, add more duration and lift if you want power, 250 @ 50.. Iron heads need more duration to make power.
Good luck

Ok, But its the 2v CHI heads that flows 300 cfm, but maybe the cam choice is limiting them ?


regards Rob
 

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You have an excellent combination! It is matched up well together! Carb, intake, cam, heads, converter, etc. Do NOT go and put a bigger cam in it! You'll just screw it all up. The cam will work great with the rest of the parts you have! If you go and install a huge camshaft, it will be a DUD taking off. It will feel lazy. As it is RIGHT NOW, you will have a very responsive engine that will make GOOD power all the way to 6000 to 6500 rpm.

If you were set to just go RACING, and wanted to install a 5000 rpm converter, 4.30 gear, huge carb, huge intake, huge cam, high compression, huge headers, huge exhaust... and didn't care how much power it made below 5000 rpm... sure. Change things up. But, for a street car, what you have is by far the best way to go! You will be surprised at how well it will run! As it, the car should burn the tires off!

With those heads, I can see it making an EASY 400 horsepower... probably more... with tons of power across the entire power curve! People here are thinking you have stock 2bbl heads, and don't even know the CHI units are quality aftermarket pieces.

Good Luck, and Have FUN!!!
 

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I don't follow Cleveland heads that's true so I was thinking stock castiron, if the heads flow that much I could see 425hp but more importantly the same in tq at the crank.
I use cams with 250 duration @ 50 in my street motors , they idle at 700 rpm and have 90 percent of there peak torque by 2800 rpm, no race craziness here.
 

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Maybe you don't know as much as you think you do.
I choose all the parts for my car, build the engines, build the transmissions, build the rear ends... and have helped choose combinations for many of my friends' cars over the years as well.

If YOU would take a 351 cubic inch 10 to 1 engine with a dual plane intake, 2500 rpm stall converter and 3.50 rear... and install a 250+ duration @ 0.050" cam... you might need to look in the mirror when making the above statement.

My street car is only 306ci, has an old nitrous plate from the 90's, and runs 9's. It is pump gas when naturally aspirated, and is only spun 6,800 rpm. Engine has lasted for YEARS, and doesn't get babied. It's also has a stock toploader 4-speed and uses small 9" slicks at the track. It is 100% designed and built by me. I also ported the old first generation 170cc twisted wedge heads that are on it. BTW, the cam is a solid flat tappet... and measures significantly less than 250 degrees @ 0.050". A 363 slated to replace it when this one gets tired is designed to spin a solid 7,500 rpm if not a bit more.. and it's cam comes in just under 250 on the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hello

I had a friend punch in the numbers in a computer simulation program and it ended up around 435-450 hp at the crank. I Think around 400-410 should be realistic. As soon as spring comes Il try to take it to the dyno. I Think the FMX should at least take away 20% or so.

Regards Rob
 

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I choose all the parts for my car, build the engines, build the transmissions, build the rear ends... and have helped choose combinations for many of my friends' cars over the years as well.

If YOU would take a 351 cubic inch 10 to 1 engine with a dual plane intake, 2500 rpm stall converter and 3.50 rear... and install a 250+ duration @ 0.050" cam... you might need to look in the mirror when making the above statement.

My street car is only 306ci, has an old nitrous plate from the 90's, and runs 9's. It is pump gas when naturally aspirated, and is only spun 6,800 rpm. Engine has lasted for YEARS, and doesn't get babied. It's also has a stock toploader 4-speed and uses small 9" slicks at the track. It is 100% designed and built by me. I also ported the old first generation 170cc twisted wedge heads that are on it. BTW, the cam is a solid flat tappet... and measures significantly less than 250 degrees @ 0.050". A 363 slated to replace it when this one gets tired is designed to spin a solid 7,500 rpm if not a bit more.. and it's cam comes in just under 250 on the intake.
Your twisting my words a bit, I said if he wants more power he needs a bigger cam..period
Next if your going to say my 289 is bs you have very little information on it to be calling anything bs. You don't know the compression ratio, cam lobe separation or centerline or lift, flat tappet or roller, rod stroke ratio or fuel type so your blindly calling it bs. Like I said you don't know what you think you do.
I've got race motors with 280 and 290 duration @ 050, now those are race motors.
 

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Your twisting my words a bit, I said if he wants more power he needs a bigger cam..period
Next if your going to say my 289 is bs you have very little information on it to be calling anything bs. You don't know the compression ratio, cam lobe separation or centerline or lift, flat tappet or roller, rod stroke ratio or fuel type so your blindly calling it bs. Like I said you don't know what you think you do.
I've got race motors with 280 and 290 duration @ 050, now those are race motors.
Not getting into a pissing contest. You recommended a cam with 250 degrees @ 0.050" for a 10:1 street car with an 11" 2400 stall converter and a 3.50 gear. That was WAY off. What he has right now is pretty much dead on for his combo.

280 and 290 @ 0.050" would be full race for an engine with 500+ cubes... and would make nothing but noise in a smaller engine. But, I thought you said you didn't even race???

If a person wants to impress the 'car show' crowd with a lumpy idle 'hotrod' that won't get out of it's own way.... sure.... install a [email protected] 0.050" cam in a 351ci 10:1 engine with a tight converter and 3.50 gear. If you want it to actually RUN good, do great burnouts, and actually WORK with the rest of the combo, what he has matches up really well. A bigger than what he has will require more car, more intake, more compression, bigger exhaust, looser converter, more gear, etc. It all needs to work as a well matched combo.
 

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Like I said you are twisting words and trying to make it something it's not, I reread his and my posts and that's not what I was saying.

He asked about horsepower not a package and I gave him an opinion on horsepower, nothing more nothing less.
But if that's what if it takes for you to feel good I really don't care what you think.
 

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Unless it's 450+ cubic inch, I'm calling Bullsquat.
This is were you lose credit with me and why I say you don't know as much as you think you do. You might not be able to build power like this but it doesn't mean it can't be done. You have an opinion before you know the facts and that's bullsquat.
 

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This is were you lose credit with me and why I say you don't know as much as you think you do. You might not be able to build power like this but it doesn't mean it can't be done. You have an opinion before you know the facts and that's bullsquat.
The times in my sig are from a factory block, crank, rods, pump gas compression, a flat tappet cam, and only 306ci... through a stock toploader and a 200hp nitrous plate. When you can run 9's with a similar combo... or basically ANY combo, I'll listen to what you have to say. Until then... it's all 'car show' sh*t talking.

And, the cam in my car is significantly less than 250 degrees @ 0.050".

And, when you say I 'twisted' your words... After he posted his combo, you recommended 250 @ 0.050" for more power. It's simply a bad recommendation, and doesn't match the rest of his combo AT ALL. He would literally need to change every single part of his drivetrain to make good use of a cam like that. I simply do NOT tolerate mis-information and bad advice.

Why did you drag this post up from out of the grave, anyway?
 

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Post 4 and 7 of this thread.

He gave his complete combination... Then you started hyping 250 @ 0.050" cams, and how he'll need one to make power, and how they work so great in street cars, and how they idle just fine at 700 rpm. (complete bullsquat)

It's mis-information and bad advice.
 
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