Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
333 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have done a number of things to keep my beast cool. 160 thermo, alum radiator, high flow water pump, bigger pulley for the water pump, an electric fan as a pusher and a mechanical as a puller. On hot days above 75 it will go to 200. but as long as im moving it will stay round 190. The block has a sleeve on #1 thou. I guess my only thing left to do is a better air flow. did mounting an electric fan as a pusher help or hurt? my mechanical fan is a summit low pro. Any links to a good fan set up? keep in mind $.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
The bigger pulley on the pump will cause it to turn slower hence less flow. I'm thinking the fan in front is hurting more than it is helping. Do you have a fan shroud on the back side?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,369 Posts
I have heard of people who have these beaut thick radiators, but it turned out they were too thick to let the air pass through them. Went to a thinner one, and the engine ran cooler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
+1 on the water pump pulley and you should have a fan shroud. Those two thing alone would likely cure your issues. 200 isnt really that hot though...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
333 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No, I do not have a fan shroud. Yes, the thermo is correct. I would like to see The car sit at 160-170 since that is what it is suppose to do. I can't do anything about the pulley. I got it as a set and well, I like the way it looks. I'm thinking that getting a better fan with shroud would cure this problem. My question is if anyone knows a good deal and what kind to get. What CFM. Any links?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
98 Posts
If you are going to an electric fan get one out of sa Lncoln Mark VIII. It will out perform any after market fan. You can find them for under $60. Then gat a good controller for the fan. I got one from Dakota Digital that works great. When you fuse up the swithced 12 volt leasd to run the fan motor get at least a 50A self resetting circuit breaker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Lookingb at your pic a bit better looks as though it has the top tank. Never had any luck with a C motor and a top tank. Go with a cross flow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Usually improper timing causes more overheating than any other issue.

That engine depending on quench, cam timing, and total timing, will like 20 degrees @ idle and 38 degrees total @3000rpm

what do you have? A new distributor out of the box?

What timing did you set it at?


Javier
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
333 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
yes still has the brass restrictor, I was told never to take it out. I have since upgraded to a crossflow alum radiator which help some. I have been leaning tords timming but I would need it to run first. Thats on another thread. I forget what timming is at idle I think its around 12. The distributor is a cheap procomp, mag pickup. It has a vacuume port that I dont use on it. I wasnt really sure what timming is suppose to be at. I have a crane cam, before they went out. .524,.536 lift. All i can remember at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
I usally run 18 to 22 initial and no more than 38 total. It depends on the build alot on head porting and compression. Cranking compression often has more to do with timing and fuel used than calculated compression duration @ .050 has a lot to do with it also. A lot of aftermarket dizzys are difficult to get desired results. Most need custom work to allow 20 inital and 38 or less total. 2 of my vehicles dayly driver dually and car now run programable 6 series MSDs. Soon the car will be converted to a distributer less system with 2 coil packs as I need longer spark duration.

Fressly rebuilt engines with tight tollerasnces often run hotter during break in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
950 Posts
I have found that stock fans work much better then those aftermarket performance fans,years ago when I put togather a 72 AMX I used the aftermarket flex fan that came on the motor from the donor car and it would never cool at idle sitting in traffic so I went to the junkyard and got a stock fan and no more problems. Now I use factory flex fans from a/c equipped vehicles and clutch fans along with a fan shroud.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
Fan in front of the radiator is hurting except sitting still. A good puller fan against the back of the radiator is the best. I would also not run a 160 degree thermostat. Once the engine warms up the thermostat is always wide open and never cycles so you actually loose cooling efficiency. A 180 would be the best to run. It will slow down coolant flow so that the radiator has time to cool it.

I run a SPAL puller fan. It flows good numbers and keeps my little hotrod 289 with the model T radiator from running hot. It has also lasted for several years. It is set to come on at over 185.

Presuming this is a street set up be sure you are running exactly a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. You can also get a water efficiency improver additive like water wetter. I run pure distilled in my mustang with water wetter because of the drag strip. Obviously I have to put antifreeze back in during the winter.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top